Tag: UK hikes

Highlight six of the NC500 – The weakness in me

This is my highlight from Day 6 of our recent trip to Scotland to drive the NC500 route. 

The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself. 

Wailing widow falls is 50 foot high and flows off a nearby Loch. Read the linked blog below to find out about our eventful walk to see the waterfall from above and why this part of the day was such a turn in the other direction. 

As you will gather, the day so far had been really special. Smoo Cave, pristine beaches and a shoe losing incident that had me nearly peeing my pants. Although I did have to pee behind some heather eventually or actually pee my pants. The whole trip so far had been a test on whether my sciatic nerve would let me walk where and when I wanted to. So far so good. Arthurs Seat. Duncansby Stacks. Big Burn Falls. All amazing days with the stubbornness in me pushing my body to its painful limits. 

Wailing Widow falls presented a new idea of waterfalls to this lover of the cascading beauties. It flows directly from Loch na Gainmhich and having seen it partially from above, it was an exciting thought to see it from the riverbed below. 

Advertised as being one of the easiest and shortest walks in Scotland, my feet and back were thrilled at the idea. Something that excites me about hiking is how new it still feels to me. Having travelled extensively but never really done the Uk breaks before, I have a newfound love for hiking. It started in August 2021 when we took a short break to Northumberland and fell head over heels for the challenges of hiking the hills to reach the rewards waiting at the end of the trails. This is where my obsession with waterfalls started and in 2 short days we had hiked to 4 complete stunners. We also turned our feet to the trail alongside Hadrian’s wall to Sycamore Gap. As a complete novice, my only real piece of walking attire are my boots. When I slip them on I feel powerful and I trust them to stop me slipping and tripping. Other clothing is simple layers under a thick fleece gilet and beanie hat. I am yet to look into proper waterproofs as shopping while living in a bigger body is fraught with frustrations and feelings of inadequacies. And yet, so far, the odd rain shower has not deterred us from taking on the northern temperatures and changes in weather. 

As someone who has and does travel for pleasure, I have questioned myself quite often in the past year as to why this new found enjoyment of walking has become so embedded into who I am. The pleasures I usually find on holidays are wandering around a city or laying on a beach. I sometimes wonder if this new obsession will run its course, as is so often the case for new found hobbies, and yet we are already in the midst of planning two more hiking holidays. I think something I don’t want to face up to a lot of the time is not having the confidence to do these things. I will still catch myself looking at other people on hikes and wonder what they are thinking when they are looking at me. Are they questioning whether I should be on these walks? Hell, on Arthurs seat, I came down from the top scooting on my bum and felt quite embarrassed as it is one of the first hikes we have done where we have been surrounded by hoards of people. The usual places we go to are really quiet. I scooted down the sides of two secluded waterfalls in Northumberland last year, got covered in mud and didn’t care an iota. I hate the part of myself that desperately clings to others’ perceptions of me on the path of loving myself. 

I believe the reason I have enjoyed hiking so much is coming to realise that the body I live in and have hated for so long is capable of so much more than I give it credit for. Having spent many vacations walking around cities and the odd day spent trailing across London I know that my walking endurance has always been there. Yet something about the hills, rocky slopes and stumbling pathways of the UK feels different. It feels like an accomplishment to return to the car, coated in grime and sweat, having been out in the elements relying only on my body’s strength to get me through. There have been times when a simple guide on the internet will describe the walk as 2 miles and yet when you are on trail you realise this is most definitely not the case. But by the time your brain catches up with your feet and logic kicks in you are invested and it no longer matters. The journey is just as important as the ending. The legs once so fat in your mind’s eye are pushing on. The only thing that stops them is you.

That is why when planning our trip to Scotland it was less about Edinburgh and the towns and more about hikes and rivers and lochs and everything in between. Both Mr W and I feel such a great need to keep this new love for the outdoors alive that we have approached travelling in this fresh way without too much trepidation. 

Maybe that is why when my confidence came crashing down around me I took it so badly. 

As I said above, the advice online about the walk to Wailing Widow falls said it was a short and simple walk. We had already noticed that the western side of the Highlands was much soggier than the east and yet armed with our boots we ventured onto the trail heads held high. From only about 10 metres into the walk we noticed just how different this was from other walks we had taken in the UK. Where most trails were signposted. This was not. Where most walks had clear pathways. This did not. Where other walks had rails or even trees to cling to. This DID NOT. In fact the only picture I can paint in your mind is this. Imagine a fast flowing river on your right. It isn’t deep, it’s very clear and it is very cold. Rather than running alongside a well defined river bank, there are rocks and custard thick pools of mud that meet the waters edge. In front of you are a few deeply set footprints in the mud which help you navigate the way. The ‘path’ is not flat and seems to follow a very up and down pattern much like a constant seesawing motion along the riverbank. When the ground levels out there are enormous boulders you have to climb, stretch and pray your way over. You pray that the mud on your boots won’t cause you to slip. The rocks in the ground are not steadfast and they too seesaw in their muddy grottos under your feet. 

Now, I am a stubborn person. I will always try before walking away. In fact we made it over 60% along this trail before I realised that my anxiety was taking over and my brain was no longer operating my limbs. For every step I took Mr W was checking the route beforehand. If the mud wasn’t threatening to slide my legs into the river the moving forwards were going to throw me in. After 30 minutes or so, my anxiety exploded out of my body in one of, if not THE, worst panic attacks I have ever had in my life. My whole being sensed the danger and I started shaking and crying. I clung to my husband with actual fear flooding through my veins. He tried to get me to calm down and yet I felt like I was going to die. Looking back, I know if I had fallen in the water, other than being cold and wet, I would not have died and I would have been able to stand quite easily in knee deep water. And yet, on that riverbank, with the unsteady boulders and boulders and thick mud, my brain and the logic it brings with it, shut down. 

As I stood in absolute fear and panic, two women walked towards us having completed the trek. I turned quickly to hide my face. It was a response I didn’t question at the time but it is only now I know why I didn’t want them to see me. With my face strewn with tears and my lip quivering I didn’t want to be the fat girl who couldn’t complete the walk. Who am I to think they even cared about me, albeit if you see someone crying, you naturally want to check if they are okay. But who am I to think that they are considering my weight and my ability over their own footfall. My god, I need to get out of this pattern of thinking. At that moment in time, those ladies were watching their feet and the sketchy landscape around us a whole lot more than thinking about my dress size. 

The truth of the matter is, and something Mr W and have spoken about at length, is that trail is really dangerous. Upon further investigation online I found a lot of advice about the walk that said how risky it was. With a clear mind upon our return I naturally started thinking about each day and visit and what they entailed. When I thought of this particular visit I started piecing together the images and realised that the slopes of the riverbank had slipped and we had been navigating the aftermath of rock and earth.

I am also now very aware that my confidence in hiking will take a hit now and again because no walk is ever going to be the same. Just because my ability is better than I thought it initially was does not mean I can do everything. When I see other people looking at me in such a mess I naturally think they are seeing my weight and coming to their own conclusions. Fortunately I have given myself a massive figurative slap round the face. My weight does not stop me stepping onto muddy river banks. Nor does it stop me balancing on a rock that is moving under my feet. My fear stops me doing those things. I am afraid because it is a new situation. I am still learning about my abilities in this new hobby. 

That day, my confidence took a massive hit. I stood shaking and hysterical amongst those muddy boulders clinging to Mr W with my entire being because fear had finally found me. Why then, have I set out to describe this visit as a highlight to you?

Sitting in the car afterwards, I felt the flooding of anger replace my fear. As we drove to our next stop I watched the mountain ranges and let their calming influence take hold of me. This was one moment in a wonderful day. You have to take the bad with the good. Not two hours before had I been bent double, clenching my legs together, unable to breathe through the laughter. This was not a bad day. It was a bad paragraph in what was a pretty phenomenal chapter.  

I still sit here and regret not overcoming my fears that day. I regret that so far I haven’t seen that waterfall and I regret crumbling so much like that riverbank. My fear in the moment engulfed my stubbornness to carry on and I learned that as much as I need to recognise the strengths in my body, I need to acknowledge the weaknesses too. There was a reason for me to be scared that day. I had reached the limits of what I was used to and what I could push myself to do. As someone living in a bigger body and hating that body for my whole life I will always blame my size for my physical limitations and yet that day it was my mind that stopped and said no. As someone who has been bigger than most people my age in every situation I will also put limitations on what I should or should not be doing. Don’t get up and dance at the wedding reception, I tell myself, people will only stare. Don’t wear the dungarees, it’ll show your belly in a way people aren’t used to. Don’t hike that river, your legs can’t carry you. 

What a load of bull. Since covid I have danced at parties without the need of an alcoholic drink to stop that voice. I have bought dungarees and am slowly starting to change my wardrobe to reflect the style I think I like. It is hard to say if I do like something for sure or not because I don’t think I’ve ever found a style I am comfortable in, but that is one huge other discussion I will find time to go over at some point.  I have believed my legs can carry me over hills, rock faces and treacherous river banks. It is only when my mind shut my body down that I recognised the weaknesses in me deserve a voice. And they have nothing to do with my weight. 

NC500 Day 6 – Itinerary

 

NC500 Day 6 – Smoo Cave, Wailing Widow Falls and Ardvrech Castle

NC500 Day 4 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series. 

I hope these have been of some help so far and thanks for returning!

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

Day 4 of our trip was heavily altered due to things out of our control. There was a big motorbike crash up in the town Brora, on a bridge no less, and it completely cut us off from reaching the Whaligoe Steps and Wick via the A9. I go into more detail about this detour in my ‘Highlight of the day’ blog which is linked below. As for the Whaligoe Steps, we sadly never reached them, but I’m sure with roads being clear you will find this itinerary well timed and suiting your explorer needs. Enjoy! 

Start out from your accommodation in the Inverness area to Tarbat Ness Lighthouse. The drive in is lovely and open and although the car park is rather small, making this your first stop of the day means you shouldn’t have any difficulties in parking. There was a car parking fee, but the machine was broken. Before you head over to the lighthouse itself, it is worth taking the short walk to the cliffs at the end of the car park. There are beautiful views of the cliffs and even a bench from which you can admire the lighthouse. Retrace your steps back to the car park and head up the lighthouse’s drive to give you a gradual introduction to the stripey building from afar. We spent over an hour here as we had a tinker with our drone, but I recommend anywhere between 20-40 minutes should you just be here to look around and stretch your legs. 

From here make your way to Dornoch, and if you’re feeling in the mood for something sweet, head to Cocoa Mountain on the high street. Don’t do what we did and sit inside, take your order to go and walk around the village. It really was beautiful and I wish we had done that instead. The shop is nice enough, the hot chocolate is okay, but the patrons had lots of dogs so it was nice to have a ‘ooo and ahhh’ over those furry friendlies. The service is rather slow which is surprising considering this is one of social media’s top highlights of the NC500. We found street parking only 3 minutes from the shops itself which is really useful. This is Scotland remember. London’s speeds are far far away. 

From here, follow the ‘what 3 words’ navigation to Dornoch Beaches car park below. We followed the Sat Nav and ended up driving through a golf course. And yes there were signs saying to look out for flying balls! It is said you can see seals at this beach and although we didn’t, we spent an enjoyable hour or so walking in the shallow surf and sand. You can swim here so add time to your schedule and take a load off. You have officially started the NC500! Enjoy it all. 

From here we took the journey to Big Burns Falls, which has the tiniest car park signpost you are likely to see. Again, the instructions are below for you, if you notice the Golspie Inn on the approach, turn left immediately after and you are there. Another small car park awaits you, but it is a relatively quiet place and it is not to be missed. Read my blog (linked below) on Day 4 to find out why! The walk itself is really quite humid as you find yourself between wet rocks and foliage for a majority of the time. This isn’t unpleasant and you will see for yourself why. I am so excited for you to do this walk in particular. 

From here the plan, I hope for you, works out. Drive up the east coast towards the Whaligoe Steps. There are 365 steps here, so take your time especially on the way up and remember you set your pace. I have put in the nearest navigation instructions I can find. It is likely to be busy but the car park looks big enough for short term visitors. I wish I could give more advice. But life happens in mysterious ways and we could not make it on this trip. 

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/10/nc500-day-3-itinerary/

NC500 Day 4: Tarbat Ness Lighthouse, Dornoch Beach and Big Burns Falls
Highlight four of the NC500 – My husband, the rally driver!

Highlight three of the NC500 – The journey upstream

This is my highlight from Day 3 of our recent trip to Scotland to drive the NC500 route.

The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself.

I will never forget sitting at Chanonry Point with my binoculars in hand awaiting a dolphin sighting while I occasionally glanced at the live stream of our Queens funeral on my phone. Having paid my respects at Balmoral a day or two before, I felt especially blessed again to be joining the millions around the UK and indeed the globe who had tuned in to say their final goodbyes. Having not known what the signal would be like on our route it was a guessing game at what would happen. And yet there we were participating. I don’t think it would feel right to call it the highlight of the day. However the word privilege seems apt and I include it here to remind myself that in no way did I think I would be sat on a Scottish beach watching our Queen’s funeral on my phone and yet it is a part of my story now. It’s unusual. It’s definitely one of a kind. And yet it felt peaceful and personal. In a way, it’s how a funeral should be. Each ‘attendee’ finds their own moment to remember and reflect.

Later that day we arrived at Rogie Falls. It is a vast series of waterfalls on the Black Water, a river in Ross-Shire. You are given the ultimate front and centre view from the suspension bridge that crosses the wide gorge.

The bridge jumps up and down as people walk across it and I felt the weight go into my legs to steady myself. I remember thinking that my legs would feel the pain of this later. It is similar to when you keep yourself upright on a boat that is rolling over the incoming waves. Your muscles tense and it is as if your brainpower is reserved just for that very need.

I am now only realising how patient I can be. That is when I know a reward is quite likely. At Chanonry Point, there have been many, many dolphin sightings. It is famous for them. And yet on our visit there were none. It is a shame but nature requires patience and understanding. Sometimes these things differ in their quantities based on focus and time allowances. If the opportunity arises again for us to be back in that part of the world maybe I will allow us more time to sit and watch the waters for those beautiful fins. Who knows.

At Rogie Falls however my patience was rewarded tenfold. In the space of 90 minutes we saw over 10 salmon leaping out of the bubbling water trying to head upstream. Each fish that appeared was met with gasps, smiles, whoops and ‘ooo’s’. It was sheer fascination that kept my legs fixed into place while my eyes darted between each cascading column of water to spy the next attempt-ee. The very fact is, the distance from the surface of the pools the salmon were jumping from to the top of the waterfall was at least 10 foot. Mr W and I, and everyone around us, knew that those little salmon would never make it to the waters above and yet there they were. Jumping, leaping, swimming as fast as they could just to try, try, try again!

Just below the suspension (literal in two ways) bridge there is something called a man-made salmon ladder. It is a series of very short waterfalls that curve their way upstream in a much easier and salmon friendlier way. Several people next to me were watching fish attempt this way up stream with much better success. And yet my eyes were transfixed on the harder route. I couldn’t help but think about their motives and why they weren’t using the ladder. Did they not know? How long would they keep trying? How does the instinct to do this just ‘happen’?

It makes me think about their journey and how fraught with danger and stress it is. Yet they continue on. It’s something to take on board, don’t you think?

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/10/nc500-day-3-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/09/19/nc500-day-three-reelig-glen-chanonry-point-and-rogie-falls/

NC500 Day 3 – Itinerary

Hello and welcome back to the Scotland itinerary series. 

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

Day 3 of our trip was altered slightly due to the reshuffle of our Loch Ness Cruise due to the Queens funeral. Instead of tucking something else into the itinerary we gave ourselves more time in each place and set pace for a leisurely day. It meant we got back to our accommodation in Strathpeffer much earlier than intended and definitely helped ease us into this mammoth trip. This little day can be as long or short as you want it to be. 

Reelig Glen is a quaint little space with easy walks to boot. We did the tall trees trail which takes you close to the river which ultimately is where our interests lie. It is a simple root with unbroken ground and slightly steep hills. Going in the morning means you get the place almost to yourself. When we arrived at the car park there was only one other vehicle to keep us company and it was the same story as when we left. There is no charge for the car park and there is a board with the two trails mapped out clearly upon it. 

As we soon noticed on our journey through Scotland, online advice often points you to an address simply by postcode. This obviously covers a large area of space and with instructions such as ‘halfways between this town and that’ can often be quite foreign to a city dweller. As in previous itineraries I am including the ‘what three words’ pinpoints to as many car parks and locations on this trip as possible. I downloaded the app before heading to Scotland and found it very user friendly. We found this app extremely valuable throughout this trip. You do not need to have a phone signal to use this method however we found we had great signals wherever we went. We were incredibly lucky in terms of signal. If mine would cut out Mr W’s was fine and vice versa. In light of this I would look into how you can use what three words app offline and then you are absolutely covered. 

Back to the itinerary. 

Head to Chanonry point if you have plenty of patience. This is a fantastic place to sit and look out. The waters here are popular for dolphin sightings and proof enough are the carvings of these beautiful creatures in the benches dotted along the beach. There is ample parking which costs £1 an hour. This is a popular place with Rv’s and I suggest you get there before midday to beat the amount of people who come here to sit, eat and watch the waters. There are bins on site too. Open to the water this site is unprotected from the wind, evident by the benches bending ever so slightly out of shape. Take a flask, sandwich and a pair of binoculars. We spent two hours here and although we didn’t see any dolphins we did see several sightings of seals which was just fantastic. If you want to make the chances of sightings more favourable, you can visit when the tides turn. There is advice that suggests the dolphins will chase the plentiful fish on a rising tide. Which is usually 1 hour after low tide. 

A very nearby visit will get your cold limbs working again with a short walk to Fairy Glen Falls in Rosemarkie. Should you find the ‘official’ car park full, don’t be deterred, there is another car park right next to the community run toilets. Both car parks at the time of our visit were free. The toilets too are free, however as they are community run, a donation is as you can imagine quite welcome. The walk to the waterfalls themselves is relatively easy and you return on the same path as you enter by. This is not one of the most remarkable waterfalls on this trip but undoubtedly has its merits and a beautiful walk on which to stretch your legs. It was particularly busy as we left as there is a caravan park between here and Chanonry Point. There were families heading to the falls on a leisurely afternoon stroll. I would say that children would have little trouble navigating this route, although those with pushchairs may struggle. 

Now, if you look at this day as a build up to the big kahuna. Rogie falls is the ONE that you’ll have been waiting for. The car park jumps out of nowhere so use the what three words app if you can. It is a big and free car park and again has public toilets. A godsend on long days like these!

The walk is very short but has some steep up and down sections. But believe me it is entirely worth it. There is a small stone wall with display boards as you reach the ledge of the gorge. You can pause here to see down into the aggressive waters below. The action however can only truly be enjoyed from the suspension bridge that crosses the river just a short walk away. I advise a phone lanyard so you do not drop your phone. Because you will need it. This place is absolutely stunning. Mr W and I both said that if we didn’t know any better we would have thought we were in Canada. To find out about our experience check out the links below. My advice is, wrap up warm, keep that camera/phone battery exceptionally high and give yourself more time than you think you need. On my last video my phone battery ran out and THAT is the only reason we left when we did. There are two trails here and naturally we took the shortest one as this is the reason we came to Rogie Falls in the first place. To see the spectacle here, it is advised to come in August and September. Please try to. It was amazing. I practically skipped back to the car in delight. 

There are no benches here but I found I could sit up on the stone ledge just to the side of the river and sat for as long as I could put up with the cold on my legs. Otherwise patience and grit will serve you wonders at this place. Focus on the very top pools of the waterfalls and try not to blink. 

Return to your accommodation for your second night in the area. Tomorrow. The true beginning of the NC500 begins!

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/08/nc500-day-2-itinerary/
https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/11/highlight-three-of-the-nc500-the-journey-upstream/

NC500 Day 3 – Reelig Glen, Chanonry Point and Rogie Falls

Highlight two of the NC500 – A tall observation

This is my highlight from Day 2 of our recent trip to Scotland to drive the NC500 route. 

The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself. 

Plodda falls is 46 metres high. It plunges over the rockface fast and loud. From below you are ‘misted’ with its waters on a breezy day as you gaze around at the wondrous greenery it has breathed into life. The space here is dominated by rock. Everywhere you look there are jagged boulders, walls of stone and sharp boulders in the river bed. The tall Douglas firs are old. So old their roots are over a foot thick in places and have woven their way around rocks that have long ditched the soil that once encased them. This is an old part of the Glen Affric National Park. There are wooden railings to keep you from plunging down the steep banks of the gorge but other than that this place feels unkempt and stolen back by nature itself. 

Above the waterfalls on the fir-needle strewn trail you can hear the mammoth cascade of water and yet you can’t see it. Ahead of you there is a different kind of path. It is structured and although wooden it is man-made and almost out of place. As you tread the boards of this pathway, you hear the water moving below you as the wood rises up around you, fencing you in and guiding you onwards. At the end of this amazing observation deck you find yourself hovering over the very falls themselves. The water is white with its fast movement. It rains down, unknowing of its future path. The river falls away below you and you can feel the fear of perhaps crashing down with them. 

I, for one, am not bothered by such things. Mr W on the other hand is not a fan. He can never really decide whether it’s the fear of heights, falling or something else entirely that bothers him. If he is on a hill or a steep gorge he is fine. There is something about movement while at a height that just ‘gets’ to him. He hated the London Eye when we went on it back in the day and yet that is the slowest moving thing on this planet. Maybe it is a case of looking at movement below from a great height that puts the whole situation into perspective?

Either way, I am fine with it. He is not. And I find it absolutely hysterical. The barrier of the observation deck is at least 4 feet high and it would be insanely hard to fall from it. I reckon that was the plan eh? And yet leaning over, head, neck, shoulder, arms and upper torso is thrilling. It is like you are on the bow of a great ship plunging over Niagara Falls. Yet, this is significantly smaller than Niagara, but then you are not a ship. You are a 5ft5” woman who is cackling in sheer delight at the height and noise you are experiencing. There is sunlight streaming from the afternoon sky and your body is suspended on land and in the air. 

The noise drowns out every other thought in your body. You are in Scotland. You are inside the water. You are nowhere and everywhere. You are taking the leap over the falls. Whooshing down into the pools below. You are above. You are dry. You are alive. 

The trees hear you gasp and laugh. Your husband is beside you as you experience nature’s beautiful self. It is a magical moment. It is as funny as it is not. No one else will understand and that is okay. You snap a very quick photo as he grips the barrier with a white knuckled fist. The sun is in your eyes. There is laughter and love. 

It is these moments that remind you why travelling is so important to you. 

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/08/nc500-day-2-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/09/18/nc500-day-2-bruar-loch-ness-and-plodda-falls/

Northumberland in 4 days

So, as you may have seen, we’ve been in Northumberland on a little holiday recently and I thought I’d share my initial itinerary with you. So that’s below, in its most basic forms…

After the first itinerary I’m going to tell you all about the changes I would make and then create a brand new itinerary for you to follow should you ever want to visit one of the Uk’s most magical areas!

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Edits:

DAY ONE.

Arriving into Alnwick as early as possible would be great for the sake of seeing the gardens to their full extent. The poison garden is absolutely awesome and even though I’m not a tour type of person, it is a must as there are government regulations concerning the Class A, B and C drug plants they have on site. The central fountain and serpentine interactive fountains are just so much fun. The ornamental garden at the top of the site is just absolutely stunning, I recommend taking a book and a sandwich so after you wander you can find a bench and enjoy the tranquil sounds of the streams of water bubbling over their pebbly paths. There are some huge shaded tunnels which are perfect to hide away from the midday sun and yet enjoy the views over the gardens. If you choose to go to the gardens I think you should give a good four to five hours to immerse yourself completely. When buying a ticket for the gardens you can use the Pavilion restaurant which has a beautiful outdoor seating area. The food and drink on offer is tasty enough but light, so as we planned to have dinner here, I now know this is not possible. Also, if you choose to visit Alnwick Castle and not the gardens you cannot go into the Pavilion restaurant, however The Bakery located just outside the entrance to the Alnwick Gardens serves the same food. So don’t despair too much! Should you choose to go into the Castle I believe you only need two or so hours. Which means you can start your day later or spend more time in the town!

After leaving your entrance of choice, I recommend a visit to Barter books, if you choose to use the car park I mention, it’s not too far a walk. The car park closes for new cars at 4/5pm, but they leave the exit open so you can park all day without a worry. It is £3 for the whole day which I think is really reasonable.

Barter books is a used book shop housed in an old train station and it is phenomenal! Nothing about the actual building has changed and everything feels so traditional and unchanged, mainly because it is!

There is a tearoom in the old waiting room, and even on our second visit to this place we have missed its opening hours. So, another itinerary edit is to make sure you get there before it’s 6pm closing time! After this you have an hour to look around the building and make sure to look UP in the second room as you enter. It is an absolutely stunning building and I wouldn’t hesitate to go back when in the area! 

DAY TWO

Honestly, when I say have a big breakfast I mean it. The weather changes rapidly in Northumberland and if it’s raining your body is going to need the pep up to keep you moving. IF it’s sunny, you are going to sweat! So good food and slot of fluids! We take our metal drinks bottles or a 2L reusable bottle on our trips and refill them regularly from a 5 litre bottle we keep in the car. Keep hydrated!

We stay in Bellingham when we are in the National Park, it works nicely with visiting Kielder, accessing the petrol station in the village and is only 25 minutes from the A1. There are lots of areas to stay in the National Park and each have their own merits. Most will be self catering so check out the locations for shops for supplies. On this trip we had a lodge in Bellingham and took all of our own food as the hotel shop nearby is a Co-op and they can be pricey at the best of times.

To get the best out of the Hareshaw Linn walk, start early to avoid the majority of all the visitors. Take a long pause at the end of the trail before making your return. There is a cave to sit in, stop and just listen to the waterfall. We allowed 4 hours for this walk, but I’d say it’s easy enough to finish with lots of breaks in 3 hours. These breaks are for the amazing scenes on each of the 6 bridges and the carefully selected locations for the benches. Make sure to keep an eye out for the elusive red squirrel. On both of our visits to this spot we have spotted squirrels and this time even saw a full size deer! Take your time and enjoy!

After your walk, take a short drive down to the amazing Tea on the Train experience to enjoy the home-made sandwiches, cakes and treas on offer. You will not regret it!

Now here is where things got extremely tight on time. The Kielder reservoir is enormous! and the Lakeside way walk is 26 miles long. With multiple art installations it is hard to just pick one. This was our second attempt to walk to the Silvalis Capitalis site and we were thwarted again. In order to do most of the walks in Kielder you need to buy a £5 car park ticket. The walks are long, rewarding but long! So bare this in mind. Buying a £5 all day parking ticket means you can use any of the Kielder car parks so moving around is easier for you should you want to have little wanders rather than do huge hikes.

Here I have changed the afternoon to include a smaller walk along the bottom of the Kielder reservoir. This will take in the Mirage deck installation, the minigolf at the Waterside Visitor Centre and a short 20 minute walk to Freya’s Hut. Give your 4 hours. It is a beautiful area. Keep a look out for wildlife. We saw chaffinches, sparrows and rabbits!

DAY THREE

This is a big choice of options. Option A will be a huge undertaking. 20 miles is a big deal and should not be taken lightly. You will need plenty of water, food, layers of clothing and perseverance. You’ll see slot of the Kielder installations and you will be tired! We will be undertaking this on our next visit and I will link my story back to this blog when we do!

Option B is going to be a lot easier and so much less daunting. The Minotaur maze is found at the Kielder Castle visitor centre. Something fun to get you alive and kicking for the day. There is a toilet block on site.

From here you can join the Forest Drive toll road. The toll is £3 and gives you permission to drive the 12 mile road that takes you through a dense working forest. Prepare to reach the 1500 metres at its highest point and make sure you stop at ‘The Nick’ to admire the views and the wind chill!

This is a simple day, but with so many pleasures. Visit Hindhope Linn, before exiting the toll road and make the very short 15 minute detour up to the Scottish border. To say you popped over to Scotland for an hour is something not many people can say. 15 minutes from the border is Jedburgh which gives you the perfect chance to stretch your legs before heading back to Northumberland. Use my tips for the most beautiful drive and scenic views. With a much smaller and intimate border crossing you’ll feel like you are sneaking back into England!

DAY FOUR

This really all depends on where you are driving home to. We live in Essex and found it to be a nice plan to break up the day. I’ve not changed any of this day as it worked out nicely. Dress up warm for Sycamore Gap as you will be battered by the elements! This walk is less about staircases and more about shingle slopes. It is strenuous but one of the more milder walks in the National Park. A fairly moderate stroll will have you complete the journey from the car park in 40-50 minutes.

Now check out the itinerary below for your final plan!

.

Northumberland – a 4 day plan

So, as you may have seen, we’ve been in Northumberland on a little holiday recently and I thought I’d share my initial itinerary with you. So that’s below, in its most basic forms…

After the first itinerary I’m going to tell you all about the changes I would make and then create a brand new itinerary for you to follow should you ever want to visit one of the UK’s most magical areas.

Edits:

DAY ONE.

Arriving into Alnwick as early as possible would be great for the sake of seeing the gardens to their full extent. The poison garden is absolutely awesome and even though I’m not a tour type of person, it is a must as there are government regulations concerning the Class A, B and C drug plants they have on site. The central fountain and serpentine interactive fountains are just so much fun. The ornamental garden at the top of the site is just absolutely stunning, I recommend taking a book and a sandwich so after you wander you can find a bench and enjoy the tranquil sounds of the streams of water bubbling over their pebbly paths. There are some huge shaded tunnels which are perfect to hide away from the midday sun and yet enjoy the views over the gardens. If you choose to go to the gardens I think you should give a good four to five hours to immerse yourself completely. When buying a ticket for the gardens you can use the Pavilion restaurant which has a beautiful outdoor seating area. The food and drink on offer is tasty enough but light, so as we planned to have dinner here, I now know this is not possible. Also, if you choose to visit Alnwick Castle and not the gardens you cannot go into the Pavilion restaurant, however The Bakery located just outside the entrance to the Alnwick Gardens serves the same food. So don’t despair too much! Should you choose to go into the Castle I believe you only need two or so hours. Which means you can start your day later or spend more time in the town!

After leaving your entrance of choice, I recommend a visit to Barter books, if you choose to use the car park I mentioned, it’s not too far a walk. The car park closes for new cars at 4/5pm, but they leave the exit open so you can park all day without a worry. It is £3 for the whole day which I think is really reasonable.

Barter books is a used book shop housed in an old train station and it is phenomenal! Nothing about the actual building has changed and everything feels so traditional and unchanged, mainly because it is!

There is a tearoom in the old waiting room, and even on our second visit to this place we have missed its opening hours. So, another itinerary edit is to make sure you get there before it’s 6pm closing time! After this you have an hour to look around the building and make sure to look UP in the second room as you enter. It is an absolutely stunning building and I wouldn’t hesitate to go back when in the area! 

DAY TWO

Honestly, when I say have a big breakfast I mean it. The weather changes rapidly in Northumberland and if it’s raining your body is going to need the pep up to keep you moving. IF it’s sunny, you are going to sweat! So good food and slot of fluids! We take our metal drinks bottles or a 2L reusable bottle on our trips and refill them regularly from a 5 litre bottle we keep in the car. Keep hydrated!

We stay in Bellingham when we are in the National Park, it works nicely with visiting Kielder, accessing the petrol station in the village and is only 25 minutes from the A1. There are lots of areas to stay in the National Park and each have their own merits. Most will be self catering so check out the locations for shops for supplies. On this trip we had a lodge in Bellingham and took all of our own food as the hotel shop nearby is a Co-op and they can be pricey at the best of times.

To get the best out of the Hareshaw Linn walk, start early to avoid the majority of all the visitors. Take a long pause at the end of the trail before making your return. There is a cave to sit in, stop and just listen to the waterfall. We allowed 4 hours for this walk, but I’d say it’s easy enough to finish with lots of breaks in 3 hours. These breaks are for the amazing scenes on each of the 6 bridges and the carefully selected locations for the benches. Make sure to keep an eye out for the elusive red squirrel. On both of our visits to this spot we have spotted squirrels and this time even saw a full size deer! Take your time and enjoy!

After your walk, take a short drive down to the amazing Tea on the Train experience to enjoy the home-made sandwiches, cakes and treats on offer. You will not regret it!

Now here is where things got extremely tight on time. The Kielder reservoir is enormous! and the Lakeside way walk is 26 miles long. With multiple art installations it is hard to just pick one. This was our second attempt to walk to the Silvalis Capitalis site and we were thwarted again. In order to do most of the walks in Kielder you need to buy a £5 car park ticket. The walks are long, rewarding but long! So bare this in mind. Buying a £5 all day parking ticket means you can use any of the Kielder car parks so moving around is easier for you should you want to have little wanders rather than do huge hikes.

Here I have changed the afternoon to include a smaller walk along the bottom of the Kielder reservoir. This will take in the Mirage deck installation, the minigolf at the Waterside Visitor Centre and a short 20 minute walk to Freya’s Hut. Give your 4 hours. It is a beautiful area. Keep a look out for wildlife. We saw chaffinches, sparrows and rabbits!

DAY THREE

This is a big choice of options. Option A will be a huge undertaking. 20 miles is a big deal and should not be taken lightly. You will need plenty of water, food, layers of clothing and perseverance. You’ll see slot of the Kielder installations and you will be tired! We will be undertaking this on our next visit and I will link my story back to this blog when we do!

Option B is going to be a lot easier and so much less daunting. The Minotaur maze is found at the Kielder Castle visitor centre. Something fun to get you alive and kicking for the day. There is a toilet block on site.

From here you can join the Forest Drive toll road. The toll is £3 and gives you permission to drive the 12 mile road that takes you through a dense working forest. Prepare to reach the 1500 metres at its highest point and make sure you stop at ‘The Nick’ to admire the views and the wind chill!

This is a simple day, but with so many pleasures. Visit Hindhope Linn, before exiting the toll road and make the very short 15 minute detour up to the Scottish border. To say you popped over to Scotland for an hour is something not many people can say. 15 minutes from the border is Jedburgh which gives you the perfect chance to stretch your legs before heading back to Northumberland. Use my tips for the most beautiful drive and scenic views. With a much smaller and intimate border crossing you’ll feel like you are sneaking back into England!

DAY FOUR

This really all depends on where you are driving home to. We live in Essex and found it to be a nice plan to break up the day. I’ve not changed any of this day as it worked out nicely. Dress up warm for Sycamore Gap as you will be battered by the elements! This walk is less about staircases and more about shingle slopes. It is strenuous but one of the more milder walks in the National Park. A fairly moderate stroll will have you complete the journey from the car park in 40-50 minutes.

Now check out the itinerary below for your final plan!

Hindhope Linn

If for anything else, please go to Northumberland for the waterfalls. I’ve linked my previous encounters with Northumberland waterfalls below. 

I’ve been to four so far and each one holds its own personal charm. 

Today’s one felt particularly special.

Like this post will end up, the walk to Hindhope Linn is short. 

You start your journey in a vehicle of your choice, car, bus, tractor… at Kielder Castle visitor centre. As long as it can handle hills and a bumpy ride you’ll be sorted! It’s a great spot to start from as it has a bank of not too shabby toilets and a pub should you fancy a quick drink. From here you’ll find the 12 mile Forest Drive toll road. There is a cash only toll payment machine as you enter the road, it costs £3. From this road you’ll get an idea of how Forestry England works. It is their road. It is strewn with stones and a fantastic experience

for those wanting sweeping vistas of the pine forest and beyond. This is big sky country for sure. 

At the halfway point and the highest point of the drive you’ll be 1500 metres above sea level and find ‘The Nick’, a stunning marvel of wooden architecture. It invites you in much like a tunnel and leads you to the most stunning view of the landscape you’ve left behind on the ascent. It has a series of pentagons that sporadically twist away from each other with ingenious seating built into its very being. Do not take a picnic, just your best coat, camera and intentions to get beautiful memories and photographs before the wind blows you away. And yes, it is COLD!

Another 5 miles or so down the road and you’ll find a small right hand turn with a toilet block and enough parking for maybe 5 cars. From here follow the trail with the orange markers for approximately 15 minutes. It is a very short trail and at the time of this post, there was a large part of the trail closed due to recent storms and its tall woody victims. Fret not, the walk blesses you with lush paths and dappled shade. We were very fortunate after a morning of rain to feel the sun on our backs as the wet earth underneath gave our feet the cushioning they so desired.

There are a few steep sections on this trail, but as the guide says they are steep and if they caused me any tiredness I did not waver to notice. This place felt really wild and isolated. A bit of me for sure. 

On your right you can hear the rush of water and as you find sloping steps leading down you notice the babbling river beneath you. Turning right to follow another set of stairs you find yourself on the bank of the small stream. Drawing your gaze up to the left, past a small stone half circle acting as a threshold of sorts, you’ll be greeted with the most amazing scene. 

It is green. The plants. The fallen trees. The rocks. All green. As your eyes adjust to the sunshine that seems to envelop this space, like no other scene before, you’ll notice that there is indeed a very beautiful, 20 foot high waterfall. It is gentle in force, but striking in its movement. The water from this beauty has created a space unlike any other I have seen in the world. It is so lush that wherever you look there are carpets of moss. 

I sit for a while and stroke the moss covering a large boulder. It is thick. So thick, my hand disappears into its fluffy texture. There are crowns of ferns that have sprung up in pockets amongst the wood and rocks. They are waving in the breeze. When the sun disappears behind the cloud the whole spot becomes dark and mysterious. It vanishes like magic. And when the sun returns, it shines its light upon the rocks and the plants igniting them back into life. This place is really special. 

It holds a certain mystique. A magic. This gully could be a daydream I have yet to wake up from. As we turn to leave, hundreds upon hundreds of tiny specks are flying, fleeing and falling through this enchanted space. Catching the light they glitter and dance. I imagine them to be fairies and we have found their kingdom. For no place like this can exist for us mere mortals.       

A hop, skip and a fracture.

Be the change

Two 2 litre water bottles

1 500ml water bottle

1 energy drink can

1 beer can

2 metal bottle tops

1 plastic bottle tops

1 plastic straw

Cellophane

1 snack wrapper

2 sweet wrappers

Various corners of snack wrappers

All of the above was found on my 2 hour hike today and I didn’t have to stray from the path I was on to see it all.

Yes folks, today isn’t going to be a happy go lucky travel piece. It’s on the odd occasion I will find the need to relay my frustrations at the human race. Now let’s not pretend I’ve been a saint and recycled all my life and not dropped the odd piece of litter (accidentally). But in this day and age I’m wondering why it is actually found to be so hard to do our bit. By no measure is the above list of litter big in comparison to motorways where rubbish is thrown so freely from a passing car or a farmers field where flytipping is prominent. Those are particular breeds of humans that lack the caring that most people do have. The litter today was discarded by people who have taken the time to visit a beauty spot in Northumberland National Park. It wasn’t an adventure park or a child’s play area. It is a moderately challenging hiking area and it isn’t a thorough fare. You do the walk, reach the end and turn back. You have to choose to do this. Which means you want to. In wanting to it means you find an appeal. The appeal in nature and all its beauties. 

The hike was to Hareshaw Linn in Bellingham. It is an astounding place which on a sunny day could have been lifted straight from Costa Rica. Its dappled shade, enclosed spaces and the area’s ability to rain on and off in continuous sunshine has created a microclimate where birds, ferns and flowing water all exist harmoniously. The most brilliant path winds through the greenery as you head along the trail. 6 bridges criss-cross you over the river as it bubbles and crashes its way over rocks, pebbles and magnificent boulders. It is a splendid walk. At the end you are met with a 30 foot masterpiece of water and rock. The rock is black with moisture and the water is white with the pace it has found. It plunges into a deep but small pool where it meets rock and continues on its way. 

On arrival today we were shocked to see that an equally tall tree had taken the plunge into the pool from the shelf above. The devastation was immediately evident as half of the waterfall was hidden from view. Having visited this place last year, Mr W and I thanked our lucky stars we had a ‘before image’ in our memories for this place. We spent a good hour watching the water from its adjacent cave as dog walkers and families came along the path. This place screams serenity. As you do with time, I started to notice the smaller parts of my surroundings: the pieces of litter in the rocks around the pool. 

It got me thinking about the damage we do to this planet. Not really seeing how it affects the places we visit. The beauty feels tainted when a plastic bottle floats alongside nature’s majesty. It was only when someone viewing the falls said that it was ‘such a shame the tree is ruining the view’ that I realised how fragile we are in nature’s grip. If we can look at a tree that has been blown down by a strong wind and call it a misfortune while stepping over a discarded sweet wrapper, are we hypocrites? Aren’t we the wind in that situation? We, the human race, are destroying nature by littering so carelessly. 

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, we are guests on this planet and should have learned plenty from the last two years: to care for this planet and thrive in its stead. For there may come a day, when like that tree, a wind blows up with its mighty power and decides our roots no longer play a part in our standing. It will blow us down the river, unwanted and discarded. 

We are not the wind. 

We are not the power. 

We can be the change we want to see in the world. 

One step at a time. 

One thought given.

Many possibilities. 

A hop, skip and a fracture.

It’s 10:40pm.

Outside, the only light on the street is from the moon reflecting its light off the clouds. The occasional car drives past. After six years of living here I’ve gotten used to them gliding across the tarmac. The birds are tweeting in the trees and I can’t get used to it. Yes that’s right, 10:42pm, and the birds aren’t asleep. And do you know why?

Because they are home! 

They have nests to maintain. Mouths to feed. Worms to forage. Water to source. Sunlight to chase. 

When they migrate you can imagine a more peaceful night. Food on tap. No responsibilities. Just away. No cares. 

And here I am doing just that. I’m home. It’s bedtime. Mr W is infuriatingly fast to fall asleep and I’m sitting up reading. Reading a book that has no real value, but gives me enough escapism to deaden my mind to sleep. Except it doesn’t work, I’m thinking about washing and work, food shopping and chores, gardening and social calendars. Cats. Birthdays. Trips. 

Trips. Trips. Trips. 

Where I find a plethora of other lists of things to do. 

Hiking. Wild swimming. Exploring. Seeking. Finding. Napping. Snacking. Living. 

I’ll put my hand up for the first time, hey let’s put both up, and shout… ahem…

I was wrong! I was so wrong in fact I’m going to make triple-y sure I was wrong. 

So, as bad as it sounds, my total number of trips in the UK for 32 years amounted to family trips to the Norfolk Broads and a long weekend in both Cornwall and Somerset. Ta-da! Ignore day trips to London, it’s 34 miles away, just doesn’t count in my book. 

Lockdown forced us to rethink flying, and other than our rebooked trip to Italy in Sept 2020, we stayed in the UK. We managed a long weekend in Edinburgh and Northumberland and then… we… returned to Northumberland for 3 days just one month later. 

Now these dots… you see… right there are put there for dramatic effect. For you see ladies and gentiles, I do not return to a place unless it has captured a piece of my whole actual being. 

There are few places that have done so, not being funny, once I’ve decided I’m going somewhere I GO ALL OUT, I’m seeing everything it has to offer, who knows if I’ll be able to go back? Why would I want to take the risk? So when Mr W and I decided to return to Northumberland one month after our first visit I was shaken. (And we’re going back in June 2022. Oops) 

You know what this amazing place did? It shocked me. First it’s in the UK, yep, and there’s me never bothering with home travel because, well I need a plane to call it a holiday. Unless I’m going up in the air, I’m still home, I’m in England, I don’t wanna be where I was born and bred! I wanna be right over there! Across the water, over mountain passes, tray table up, no peanuts. 

Second, I don’t hike, I don’t scramble, I don’t wander. But you will have caught me scramble down a rocky waterfall on my arse, dirty, soaked through and smiling. Laughing. Happy.

Not a shop in sight. No selfie stick welding tourists. Not even a car park destination. Just a field and a slight path trodden into a boggy hill. 

And I tell you this, I’ve never felt more awake to the possibilities. 

Northumberland has wonders even the locals don’t know about. Take Crammel Linn for example. A colossal cascade of water over a dark deep pool of water. The noise is enormous and an assault of the ears. But let’s not start there. Let’s start with finding this place. There are no signs, our B&B lady had never heard of it and its starting point is on MOD (ministry of defence, I’m sure you knew that but I didn’t up until 3 years ago, eep) land. Great start!

We find ourselves driving through winding lanes and across a beautiful bridge and then onto seemingly nowhere. I find the sign for MOD land and know it’s somewhere close. The only hint that we are in the right place is an old wooden sign pointing down a sloping field. We don our hiking boots, I would live in these bad boys if they didn’t scream MUUUUUD, and we take the first steps into the boggy wetland that is the path. There’s the odd plank of wood submerged in the watery, mossy ground, and I pray we aren’t in the wrong place. It is windy, no, that’s the wrong word, an invisible wrestler is pushing me back to the car and for good measure he has a misting spray levelled at my face. It is blindingly ferocious weather and yet we trudge on. We will see this waterfall. We will endeavour. And then, my arse falls out. We’ve reached what can only be described as the rockiest steep drop off I’ve ever seen. It’s an open field, the fence is at the bottom of the slope ahead and it’s wet. The rocks jutting out are threatening to gouge my legs apart and the fence has barbed wire. Mr W goes first and he leads me down. After several hundred ‘I can’t do’ moments we reach the fence. It takes me another 10 minutes to climb over the stile, which, I shit you not shook like a defecating dog and being on a slope was vastly different heights on either side. I’m 5ft5 and yet standing on that stile looking down I was an uncomfortable 7ft5! Did I mention there was barbed wire running along the top too? Honestly you couldn’t make this up. So, off the stile, onto a single foot track running beside the fence and a steep slope leading into an abyss of bramble and bushes. Lovely. But what is that I hear? Through the wind, I hear a cataclysmic sound of falling water. Before we can see the waterfall it’s just a hop, skip and a fracture down an even dodgier zig zag of a slope mounted with loose soil, large slippery rocks and nothing to hold onto. My god, what a journey! 

And then there it was. One of nature’s gifts to the world. A crash of water against water. A huge monolith of stone at the mercy of the rushing river. Once my legs retained their blood flow, we sat down and raided the trusty backpack for supplies. I couldn’t tell you what we ate, but it was likely crisps, water and some kind of sugar sent from heaven to keep my body from crumpling. 

As we sat there, the weather changed and the glorious Northumberland sun shone for us. A robin danced in the shadows and I was swept away by the solitude of the moment. 

I wasn’t thinking of washing or work, food shopping or chores, gardening or social calendars. I wasn’t thinking of much, my mind for the first time since before the pandemic had found peace. It turns out to drown out the noise of your daily life, you just need to find a louder noise. The wind, the rain and the waterfall. My daily life never really stood a chance. We sat until our bodies warmed slightly in the sun and then said our goodbyes. It was a special moment; our first UK waterfall! 

I listen now to the birds in the trees, and realise we aren’t so different. When it’s time to switch our minds off, we just need a new environment, a crazy adventure and somewhere else to call home. Even if it’s just for an hour in the lap of a waterfall. 

Photo taken by me at Crammel Linn, Northumberland. 

Please find other photos on Instragam @frameworktravel