NC500 Day 12 – Itinerary

It is bittersweet to write this. This is the last day’s itinerary from our 12 day tour of Scotland via the NC500. This is an easy paced day and we found ourselves at a loss when a few of our plans changed. It was out of our control and yet we found some other points of interest to visit. I’m going to suggest one of the activities we had to miss because, simply put, it looked incredible. 

If you stayed in Fort William on the eve of Day 11 I cannot stress enough the absolute pleasure of getting a pastry breakfast from the Rain Bakery on Fort William High Street. I got there as soon as they opened and the pain au chocolat I bought for Mr W and I were hands down the best we’ve ever eaten. 

It would be a good idea to check the mountain report for this morning’s activity before timing your day. We were unable to head up to the Ben Nevis viewpoint due to inclement weather conditions. But I hope you are able to. From afar this mountain range looked incredible. There are gondolas you can take up the mountainside for £25 per person.  https://www.nevisrange.co.uk/mountain-report/

Before you scale the tallest mountain range in the United Kingdom head to the Ben Nevis viewpoint in Corpach which also happens to be a crossing for the Jacobite Steam Train. Seeing this icon from street level is quite something. The train passed over at 10:28hrs, a mere 13 minutes after it departed Fort William station. 

Check the online schedule for the train at: https://westcoastrailways.co.uk/jacobite/timetables

From here head to the Ben Nevis Gondola Station. I anticipate you will need at least 90 minutes and hope it is as amazing as I expect it to be. Needless to say, dress warmly as it’ll be rather windy. 

Upon leaving it is a good idea to load up with petrol and snacks in the immediate area. There are no facilities for the rest of the day and it can be a lengthy drive. 

Head onto the Glencoe Viewing Point. I have notated a particularly big parking area for you to stop and drink in the scenery as it is a very busy and popular site. There are numerous places to stop and check out the Glencoe region but it wasn’t until we reached the viewing point at the What three words location below that we found a space. Driving through this area was beautiful and a nice final farewell to the mountains of Scotland. 

There is a walk that is highly recommended on all the hiking sites for the Glencoe area and although we didn’t have the time there is no reason to suggest you won’t. I’m copying this for you below:

Loch Achtriochtan –  

Allow 2-3hours – wild swimming is possible

‘Signal Rock loop walk – Ballachulish PH49 4HX

The car park at the site of the old Visitor Centre is unsigned, but can be found on north side of A82 1km west of turn off to Clachaig Inn. There are plenty of parking bays and an information board on the walks available; the route described here follows all the loops. The walk begins from the far (west) end of the car park on a tarmac path, with great views of Clachaig Gully. The path soon leads to a bridge over the River Coe; there are good views downstream where the river flows through a small gorge, and upstream with Bidean nam Bian as an impressive backdrop. Immediately over the bridge the path forks; take the left branch up the steps. This reaches a second junction in the forest; take the left fork again, which waymarked blue and black. Ignore a small branch path off to the left, following the Signal Rock sign as the path curves right. At yet another junction, this time with a big tree right at the junction, turn left uphill – waymarked in blue. Remember this point as you must return here after visiting Signal Rock. The path passes through a gate in the deer fence and then descends once more. Soon you’ll pass a junction with a branch path on the right signed for Torren Cottage only. Ignore this branch and continue up the steps to the foot of Signal Rock. This is climbed via steps round the back. Return back to the unmarked junction with the tree. Turn left onto a smaller path but before reaching the gate ahead turn right onto a well-made trail. After crossing some streams via planks this trail climbs the hillside ahead in a series of easy zig-zags, finally reaching the top of the hill after passing round the back. This is An Torr, and a better view can be gained by following a short branch path off to the right on the top, where a rocky outcrop has an open view through the trees. Continue following the An Torr path as it winds back downhill. When it joins another path, turn left (turning right soon rejoins the outward route to Signal Rock) and pass through a deer fence (there is a small gate on the right if the main gate is locked) and then emerges on the minor road in Glencoe. The great mountainside opposite is the western end of the Aonach Eagach – the ‘path’ that can be seen is the dangerously eroded route beside Clachaig Gully that is out of bounds to responsible walkers. Turn right along the road, passing the Clachaig Inn, where refreshments can be had. Immediately after passing the red iron snow gates beyond the Clachaig Inn turn right onto a well-made path. This heads back to the bridge over the River Coe and the car park beyond.’

With lunch in mind we stopped at the Loch Tulla viewing point by chance. It too is a busy area for sightseers making their way to the Isle of Skye from Glasgow but the views are incredible. Make the most of the time here to unwind. The next drive is 90 minutes long and is fraught with tight winding roads. 

The 3 lochs drive is a private forestry road and costs £2 to enter. It is a beautiful 7 mile stretch of road in which flora and fauna are in abundance. There are several viewpoints over the 3 lochs you can stop at and many relaxing walks you can also complete. The road closes at 16:00hrs and the exit loops you back to the entrance to help you on your way. 

As this may be your last day the timings of the activities are yours to decide upon. At the end of this itinerary you may choose to stay in Glasgow or return to Edinburgh. Should you head to Glasgow you will find easy passage to the Lake District or the many delights of the Northumberland National Park. I will link my Northumberland travel blogs below. 

The itinerary for the last day in Scotland was no wayward winner. The common belief of ‘going out with a bang’ on one’s last day on vacation suggests that this itinerary is rather boring. My belief is that after 12 jam packed days, it was for the best to take it slower and appreciate the absolute rawness of Scotland before departing. It was nice to take it slowly and remind ourselves that the NC500 isn’t about the destinations but about the road itself.

I hope you find this outstanding road and tour everything you want it to be. I know we did. And more. We are planning to return in a few years once some international travel is achieved. 

Thank you for sticking with this blog for so long. Tomorrow brings about the final highlight of the series and hopefully we’ll be tying it up in a neat and tidy tartan bow.

Highlight 12 of the NC500 – 3 Lochs Forest Drive

NC500 Day 10 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series.

Let’s crack on shall we, this is the itinerary for Day 10 on our NC500 tour of Scotland.

Our day changed dramatically due to the weather. So I’m going to give you our planned itinerary and you’ll be able to gain all information and thoughts about what we actually experienced here and on my summary of the day in the blogs linked below. Up until we arrived in Skye we had been very smug about how kind the weather had been to us and then… well, the waterfalls we had seen so far seemed to open above us. 

Today’s plans are not for the faint hearted. It is a very packed and strenuous day with two big hikes in it. This may seem too much but it will open up all of Skye to you. The big attractions are all there for you to see and love. Enjoy!

A little advice on this one. You will want to check your sunrise/set times on this one. The activities at the beginning and end rely on seeing the sun on the horizon. I think it would create the most amazing views.

Start your morning in the dark and drive up to the Old Man of Storr. This is a hike we unluckily didn’t venture on. We sat in the car park for a long time determining whether we should attempt it as the day’s hours ticked on. We decided it wasn’t the timing we had planned and therefore left it to our return trip. I advise making this your first point of call and parking up before sunrise to guarantee a space in the very busy car park and to also see some of the most spectacular views over the Applecross Peninsula on the mainland when the sun makes its appearance. The car park charges £2 for 2 hours and there are toilets on site. Below are some pretty clear instructions to help you make this walk safely and without too much confusion. Snacks will be needed I am sure. 

‘The path starts through the gate near the back of the car park.The wide path winds uphill through an area intended to regenerate with native woodland. Keep ahead/slightly right when the path forks although it doesn’t really matter as both join up later. The path passes through two gates to eventually reach the open moor with the spectacular cliffs of the Storr up ahead. The Old Man can be difficult to pick out from the cliffs behind from this point. Continue up the wide footpath. As more height is gained, look out for a clear path branching left; take this turning. The path contours a little before ascending, swinging right to climb up to the left of the Old Man. The next section of walk has some danger from rockfall – it should certainly be avoided after heavy rains. Follow a path that descends to pass around the back of the Old Man; the path is clear but crosses a short section of fallen rocks. This area – with towering cliffs and pinnacles all around – is known as the Sanctuary. Beyond the Old Man stands the Needle Rock – also known as the Cathedral, which has a window right through it near the top. Continue towards this, but turn right before reaching it to begin the descent. There are several variant paths at first but all soon join as the descent continues, passing well below the east side of the Old Man. Once back on the main path, follow it down to eventually retrace your steps back onto the made path through the felled area. Further down, you can turn right at the fork to follow an alternative, equally well made path for the descent section. This weaves about and passes a small lochan before rejoining the outward route. Continue down to return to the car park.’

Sounds impressive right? Even from the car park the view of the Old Man of Storr is impressive and should you get to experience this walk please let me know how it is. Please?

Make sure you have a big drink to replace all that expended energy. 

The next stop is really easy so don’t worry about those achy legs. The car park is free (as of this blog) and it’s quite literally a minute’s walk away from the cliff’s edge. As mentioned in the previous days, itinerary sites on Isle of Skye are considerably busier than the mainland and you may therefore have a long wait for an up close photo opportunity. Be patient, it is absolutely worth it!

Unfortunately we didn’t go on the next visit. It is supposed to be great with actual dinosaur prints that aren’t roped off so you can get up close and personal. I know you are down at the water’s edge so take waterproof clothing and enjoy! Don’t linger too long, you have lots more to see and the next stop is the busiest point on today’s itinerary. 

The Quiraing viewpoint is absolutely breathtaking. The smallest amount you’ll pay at the car park is £3 but you do get 3 hours. The car park is bigger than most on the island and although busy you won’t find yourself waiting long for a space to become vacant. On site there is a food van selling hot dishes to warm you up after the strong winds found here. You can spend anywhere between 20 minutes to 2 hours here. There is a hike which looked absolutely incredible from the viewpoint and if the weather had been kinder we would have definitely given it a go. Take note of the signposted areas to prevent you from quite literally slipping down to meet the land below. Wrap up warm!

Next, take the very scenic drive to Rha waterfall. You will find the road here very steep in places and much of it is single track so act as the locals do and be kind and courteous. It becomes second nature after travelling so much of the NC500 to accept the to and fro of the single track road however due to the influx of day tourists you may find some impatience forming. Remind yourself it is the journey not the destination and you’ll be fine. 

I’ve given you two sets of details (both What3Words) to find Rha waterfall. One for the parking, which is free, and one for the gate which opens onto the short walk to the falls. This is a very short but rewarding walk. It is much less busy than other sites on the island and you’ll find yourself lucky to find some peace and quiet in this beautiful spot.  

We found the next spot quite difficult to find and therefore I’ve given you another set of What3Words instructions. In most cases you will be given a postcode to find sites in Scotland. This covers a vast amount of space and with very little SatNav signal and/or phone signal it can become quite difficult to find places. I advise downloading the W3W app and using it offline as much as possible. The car park at the Fairy Glen in Uig is brand new and charges £2 for 2 hours. Which I think is a generous amount of time for this site. It is fairly straightforward walking around the base of these mounds. Take care if you wish to take a birds eye view, rain causes very slippery conditions and there are some fairly steep sections. As we arrived in the rain I know we didn’t fully appreciate this site which is a damn shame.

Now, the next and last stop of the day is a biggie. It’s one of the big reasons we will return to the Isle of Skye as we also missed this walk due to the weather. Neist Point Lighthouse is a 2 hour hike to the coastal area of northern Skye. There have been sightings of whales from here and in my opinion as a sunset chaser, it will be a wonderful end to a full but exceptional day. As we didn’t accomplish this walk I have given you the information below for the walk. I would like to think that a well trodden path would be easy to see but you never know!

‘Begin by following the path through the gate, which if locked can be easily walked round. Almost immediately turn left on the path, which then swings right to ease the descent to the headland far below. There is a metal handrail for most of the descent. Continue along the now level path. It is possible to detour to the right to visit the edge of the cliffs, overlooking the great prow of An t-Aigeach, the dramatic upstanding crag half way out on the headland. To the left are great views to the impressive cliffs of Waterstein Head and the Hoe, the second highest on Skye. At the highest point of the constructed path, a grassy path heads off to the right – this is an optional detour to the top of An t-Aigeach. If you decide to visit the top, take great care near the cliff edge, and retrace your steps back to the main path. As the corner is rounded the lighthouse comes into view for the first time. Continue along the path towards the lighthouse and the former keepers’ cottages. From the path junction, you can turn left along a made path to reach the crane and crane. It is also worth detouring across rougher pathless ground beyond the lighthouse complex to reach the furthest point. The return route is back the same way. It is worth detouring to the left from the path before it heads round An t-Aigeach to visit the cliff edge; from here you can watch seabirds in season but take care as the edge is, of course, unprotected.’

And there you have it. The top sites of the Isle of Skye in one day. I hope it serves you well. You deserve a big dinner and drink to toast the day. 

Staying on the Isle of Skye means you need to just return to your accommodation and relax. Tomorrow we return to the mainland. Our journey draws to its conclusion. But for now, chill.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/13/highlight-10-of-the-nc500-the-quiraing/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/13/highlight-10-of-the-nc500-the-quiraing/

NC500 Day 8 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series. I hope these have been of some help so far and thanks for returning! It has been 121 days since we set off on our huge Scotland road trip. The NC500 route around Scotland is, as you may have guessed, approximately 500 miles. From our starting point in Essex, up to the route, around the Isle of Skye and back home via the Lake District we covered 2800 miles. This journey will see you cover many many miles and have your eyes peeled back as far as they will naturally go. It is a joy to travel this route and explore every corner. 

121 days ago we loaded up our car with as much long life food as possible, A LOT of wet weather gear and what we like to think were sensible purchases to make our experience in the wilds of the Scottish highlands as comfortable and safe as possible. There are other blogs on my page about our purchases and how we also kept the budget down. Keep tuned in for other tips and itinerary hacks. 

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

This is the itinerary for Day 8 of our NC500 road trip.

Today’s itinerary is completely relaxed owing to the heavy first 7 days. I am for the first time including our accommodation as I will cover this in the next blog, ‘Highlight eight of the NC500’. Should you choose to stay outside of Applecross after travelling the Bealach Na Ba you’ll have plenty of time for the extra driving. 

Starting your day from Aultbea means your first drive of the day should take approximately 50 minutes. Red point beach feels like it is in the back of nowhere and I am happy we eventually found it. Please use the ‘What 3 words’ details below. I know, I know, I stress the importance of this app but it truly is a game changer. Red Point beach itself is pretty enough, however it has become a much publicised area due to social media attention and personally Mr W and I did not feel the magic that is portrayed online. Maybe this is due to the filters that videos and pictures are passed through these days or maybe the red sand is better highlighted on a sunny day. Either way, the huge sand dunes make for a hilarious hike and the nearby farmers fields have lots of cute cattle to say ‘Morning’ to. As my itinerary says, wild swimming is possible at Red Point Beach and as my highlight of Day 7 will reiterate, swimming in Scottish waters is the best experience! You reach the beach via a farmers field but other than the dunes it is not a strenuous walk. 

From here take the short drive to Victoria Falls, another signposted location on the NC500, and take in one of the most accommodating car parks so far. The pathways that lead to the well placed viewpoints are recently laid. The views of Loch Maree from all points on the pathway are fantastic. Due to the short walk from the car park to the viewing area this place is popular! Do not worry if you have to wait for a car park space. Although small, the car park does empty relatively quickly. I implore you to take your time at both the wooden viewing platform and the monumental spot at the very top. 

It is a very short drive to the next destination of Glen Docherty viewpoint, however on route there is an excellent toilet block funded by the local community in Kinlochewe (W3W flattered.squirted.presented). There are lots of recycling options in the car park should you need to unload car rubbish and there is a tap supply of fresh drinking water. Please donate to the upkeep of the toilet block. 

Make sure you have lunch for the next stop as you take in the Glen Docherty Glen from your car. We stopped here for such a long time watching the winding road, hillsides and Loch Maree in the distance. We saw deer grazing on the steep slopes and were utterly entranced. Eat lots of delicious food and drink it all in. The next destination of the day is not for the fainthearted. 

Please take the route through Torridon for the most awe-inspiring scenes in Scotland. This is true untouched wilderness and there were at least a dozen times I wanted to jump from the car and go running through the landscape. You will soon find yourself on the approach to the Bealach Na Ba where huge metal signs take care to label all warnings to the road across the Applecross Peninsula. It is a very well known spot in Scotland and is almost a rite of passage to all NC500 travellers. We travelled in an SUV and found the going easy however anything bigger and older would make it different for sure. Different is the only word I can find to describe scary but with an aim to push you to just do it anyway! Take your time, ignore people trying to speed you along and take notice of where and when you are and aren’t allowed to stop/pull over. This road is to be appreciated by your eyes and fear responses. Your phone and camera comes second. The view from the top is absolutely breathtaking. There is an air of community spirit and happiness for all the drivers at the viewpoints. Many people turn around and head back the way they came. However, if you feel like stopping for the day and having a completely chilled evening, carry on to Applecross itself.  

NC500 Day 7 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series. I hope these have been of some help so far and thanks for returning! It has been 121 days since we set off on our huge Scotland road trip. The NC500 route around Scotland is, as you may have guessed, approximately 500 miles. From our starting point in Essex, up to the route, around the Isle of Skye and back home via the Lake District we covered 2800 miles. This journey will see you cover many many miles and have your eyes peeled back as far as they will naturally go. It is a joy to travel this route and explore every corner. 

121 days ago we loaded up our car with as much long life food as possible, A LOT of wet weather gear and what we like to think were sensible purchases to make our experience in the wilds of the Scottish highlands as comfortable and safe as possible. There are other blogs on my page about our purchases and how we also kept the budget down. Keep tuned in for other tips and itinerary hacks. 

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

This is the itinerary for Day 7 of our NC500 road trip. 

After staying in Lochbroom or Ullapool for the night your journey to Clashnessie Falls will take approximately 1 hour 10 minutes.

Clashnessie falls is a site dependent on the right weather conditions for two reasons. Should it rain before your visit the falls will be at their most dramatic and beautiful. However the route to the falls will be, as we found, extremely boggy and unstable. Alternatively if there has been a dry spell, of which is uncommon in the western highlands, you will find the route easier to tackle and yet be greeted upon a fine mist of a waterfall at the end of your walk. The car park can be found using the what 3 words instructions on the itinerary below. The walk from the car park to the beginning of the waterfall route is very simple. From the car park opposite the beach turn left and walk back up the road. You will pass a red phone box on your left. Keep going up the small hill and you will come to a sign post indicating where the walk to the falls begins. It is down a track and when you get to the Falls Cottage you can choose to go either across the stream using the stepping stones or to the right along the fence. Both lead you to a good view of the falls. The route from the car park to the falls should take no longer than 20-25 minutes on a good day, however considerably longer should the ground become boggy in bad weather. I would definitely plan accordingly.

The timing of this day will depend on the weather and how much you care about soggy feet, coats and bodies. Saying that, regardless of the weather the next stop is an absolutely must do. Achmelvich Bay was an absolute pleasure to visit and I’ll post the link soon to why it was my highlight of Day 7. Out of all the places we went to along the route I can hands down, without any hesitation say for both myself and Mr W that we would return to this beautiful slice of paradise. The car park is situated next to the Shore Caravan site and I suggest using (again) the what 3 words app to get you to the exact spot you need to be. The car park does have a charge, although like other sites, it is more of an invitation to pay rather than a demand. There is a single large toilet cubicle on site, which would be great should you wish to change out of swimming gear and such like. This again is chargeable, however the pay machine was broken on our arrival and we were still able to use the facilities. Out of all the activities today, should you be a brave traveller and like to swim, I would bank on spending a lot of your time here and plan your day around this particular site. There is a small cafe which sells fish and chips. Honestly, you can’t go wrong!

From here, you can pretty enjoy the route while you scope out more food to recharge your batteries. Lochinver Larder is highly rated among the NC500 enthusiasts. They will heat the pies should you desire and although pricey (£14 for two pies) they are very filled and tasty. There is nearby free parking. Next, treat yourself to a hot drink at Sovi’s Coffee. The car park is a sharp left turn en route to Ullapool and I suggest slowing down as you approach. The parking is used by hikers to the Bone Caves which takes between 30-60 minutes depending on your fitness level. Although we didn’t do this particular walk, we saw a few people coming and going which leads me to believe it is a popular spot. I have read that the route can be quite uneven and the final climb to the caves is steep. I advise some further research before planning this into your day. 

After your pause for drinks, head onto Ullapool for a real treat. For the first time on your route, you will find a beautiful town with lots of shops and places to eat and explore. We ate at the Seafood Shack, and despite my hesitation with fish, I enjoyed my food immensely. The town has wide avenues and although nothing like the size of Inverness or Edinburgh it had the bustle of a small town that feels very warm in its invite. We found street parking plentiful and were lucky to park a stone throw from the Seafood Shack itself. 

After you have reacquainted yourself with the familiar sights and sounds of buildings and signposted streets you will notice the return of road markings and busier roads on your journey to the Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve. 

With its utterly mesmerising view of the gorge and path-making waterfall, this is an absolute must do for any visitors to the Ullapool area. Although a quick visit at just 40 minutes, its effortless snaking paths and views are the best way to end day 7. Parking was plentiful.

Finish your day by making the stunning drive to Aultbea for your overnight accommodation. The drive itself took on the coastal roads which gave dramatic views out to the Summer Isles and the dark navy waters of . On a clear day you may see the island of Lewis and Harris, an island in the Outer Hebrides.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/16/nc500-day-6-itinerary/
https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/01/17/highlight-seven-of-the-nc500-paradise/

NC500 Day 6 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series. I hope these have been of some help so far and thanks for returning!

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

This is the itinerary for Day 6 of our NC500 road trip. 

Smoo cave must be seen to be believed. With its green algae painted walls and beautiful waterfall this is a highlight on everyone’s NC500 itinerary. Entrance to the cave is free and is reached via some steps that lead you down the cliff face from the free car park. There are also some not too shabby free toilets in the car park which I have come to love in Scotland. There are so many facilities everywhere you go! There is also a little honesty box that the neighbouring house has set up. I bought a knitted green hat for £4 and there were other items that were of equally good value. 

I liked getting here early to beat the crowds and have the cave almost to ourselves. Even though it was early enough and the cave was quiet, the car park was full. Much like other sites in Scotland, parking space was taken up by the odd RV and it was quite small anyway. To save you time and frustration, start your day early! Close by is a food van that sells Cheese toasties, unlucky for us, we didn’t see it on our visit, but I have heard wonderful things and I spoke to the guys over on their Instagram page and they seemed real friendly. 

From here we originally planned to head to the Sango Sands viewpoint which is only a 4 minute drive away. Sango Sands is a big complex with facilities for Rvs and campers and is well known on this route. The viewpoint is reached through the complex and gives you a view down to the water and its neighbouring coast. As you may have come to expect after reading these blogs, there was only a brief description alongside a postcode for this stop and we found ourselves pulling up at another beach entirely. Durness beach is very close to Sango Sands, from the hill above the beach you can actually see the viewpoint to the west. This is going to divide opinion on which view is best. But in my very honest opinion. I did like seeing the view from Durness. You are above the beach and see its white sands in full. If you are at the Sango Sands view point, you are looking at it side on and personally I don’t think it is as beautiful or captivating. There is also the chance to traverse the sandy slope here and go wild swimming in the turquoise waters. Can’t go wrong with that can you? There is a small, well maintained car park that you do need to pay for. This will be the deciding factor for you on how long the day will be as to how you spend your time at this beach. Pack a wetsuit and jump in.  

When you decide to warm your bones by moving on, head to Kylesku bridge. There are car parks at either end of the bridge however I had given directions to just one as it gives a better view of this concrete monolith and also has a food truck offering a posh fish menu. The views here are amazing and you will be here longer than you anticipate. There are benches but no toilets. 

From here keep journeying south to one of Scotland’s hidden gems. You can view Wailing Widow Falls from the riverbed it cascades into and from Loch Gainmhich that feeds it from above. Please take extreme care when walking along the river bank to the waterfall. I have covered our experience in my ‘Highlight’ blog from this day and linked it below. The riverbank walk itself is extremely difficult for those not used to very muddy and unstable paths. The walk above next to the loch is much easier but you need to be very careful at the edge of the loch when looking down to the waterfall. The whole area surrounding the loch and waterfall is very boggy and unsteady. Walking boots are absolutely necessary and it would be wise to take extreme caution. There are two laybys for these walks, the first for the waterfall is more like a grassy layby that has been formed overtime by visitors. The ‘What 3 words’ app is very useful for these two visits. 

From here make the very short drive to Ardvreck Castle where there is ample layby parking on either side of the road. It is quite boggy here in places but the easiest of all walks today. On one side of the road is the Castle and on the other is Ardvreck waterfall which is a small yet powerful beauty. It is quite clear in certain places of Scotland that some visits are not advertised by the Scottish tourist board and because of this certain walks have not been made safe for visitors. It is also apparent when wire fences have been trampled over in order to reach a river as is the case in Ardvreck. It definitely makes you feel as though Scotland is a new world only just coming to light.

Staying in Lochbroom or Ullapool will suit tomorrow’s itinerary best.  

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/14/nc500-day-5-itinerary/

NC500 Day 5 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series. I hope these have been of some help so far and thanks for returning!

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

This will ultimately be one of those days that you can cut bits out should you wish to longer swimming at Dunnet beach and perusing the shops at John O’Groats. You may find you do not want to go to the Gin Distillery and this will give you an extra 90 minutes in this itinerary. 

In my opinion I found the distillery tour too long which is unfortunate because before it started to feel like it was dragging on it really was interesting. It is also good for those who don’t particularly like Whiskey. Tours must be booked in advance and are specifically run 1 – 2 days a week. Please plan accordingly. 

This is the itinerary for Day 5 of our NC500 road trip. 

We got up with the sun and drove to John O’Groats. On arrival we were the only ones in the car park and were grateful for the toilets nearby. There is usually a charge to use these facilities, but the turnstiles were broken. The car park is £3 and is valid all day. By getting here early you have avoided the queues to take the obligatory photos at the famous signpost. There are about 5 eateries here that serve hot drinks, these open at 9am. 

I advise heading to the Duncansby’s car park just a few minutes drive away and coming back to this little hub after your walk. Duncansby stacks are just a short 20-30 minute walk from the free car park which you will find right next to the lighthouse. The ground is easy underfoot and much less muddy than other areas of the Highlands. Watch out for the sheep poop! It is exceptionally windy here but the view is absolutely brilliant of the stacks and coastline. We had the entire space to ourselves and waited for the light to change as the sun rose in the sky. We met no one else on the road as we drove back to John O’Groats which tells me this is a quiet place in the early mornings. 

On our arrival back to John O’Groats we found a lot more cars and RV’s parked up and the cafe’s were open. Strangely enough the main eatery was closed and our dreams of bacon baps were dashed. After trying two of the other foodie spots and being told they started savoury food at 12pm, we left dejected and with hungry bellies. There are some souvenir shops here to satisfy out of towners who would like a trinket to remember their time at this famous place in Scotland. Save your money allocated for food for the next destination on this itinerary. 

Annie’s bakery is open Sundays, Wednesdays and Thursdays from 10am at the time of writing this blog. Keep an eye out on their website to be sure you don’t miss out. Not only is the food and drink here cheaper than down the road, but the whole atmosphere is bright and inviting. Check out my thoughts on Annie’s in my recap of the day in the link below. Stock up on those sweet treats and hit the road. The day has only just begun!

The next stop relies on whether you like smoked food. Namely fish and cheese. Should you have the facilities in your accommodation head to the Caithness Smokehouse and talk to the friendly owner about the produce you can buy on the day. Don’t be put off by the directions and where you end up. This is a cottage industry business and you will definitely feel like you are trespassing in someone’s front garden. Produce on the day is not guaranteed but I implore you to try the smoked cheddar. It is absolutely delicious. 

The next stop’s selling point is the fact that it, rather than John O’Groats, is the ACTUAL most northerly point in the United Kingdom. There is just a car park at the site but in my opinion gives a much better outlook in relation to sea and cliffs than its counterpart does to the east. The parking is £1 for 2 hours. And I recommend staying for a minimum of 30 minutes. There is not much to do here except a nature walk laid out by the RSPB. Should you be visiting in Spring and Summer you may find yourself gazing down at the puffins that call this place home. Otherwise there is a small stone bench at the viewpoint from which you can sit and stare out at the cold ocean below. Take your binoculars and some patience. Who knows what you may see!

As we didn’t stay at Dunnet head as long as originally planned we drove up the coast to Dunnet beach and enjoyed an hour’s walk along the beach. The car park is of a good size and although there is a small scramble down the large pebbled slope the water seemed shallow enough for a dip and the beach is enormous. It is crescent in shape and I believe is a hidden gem on the NC500 route. 

We then head to our tour of the Gin Distillery. If you’ve not been on a tour before, I would recommend it so you can judge it for yourself. Initially there was a brief introduction to how the distillery was started with a yummy gin and tonic to start. Then you are shown the actual distillery and it is explained in detail about the stills, the process and even the bottling. It was very interesting, as I have said, but it went on for at least 40 minutes and the room was exceptionally hot with no seating. This was quite hard for me to deal with and ultimately I started to feel the need to leave. I think if I had been less tired and not been nursing a back problem I would have been fine. As I said, try it once because you never know. The tasting afterwards was enjoyed by Mr W and he could detect all the hidden flavours in the booze and their accompanying drinks. I on the other hand was more than useless and should have taken the tasters home. Which is an option should you be driving etc. The tour is £15 per person which I think is really reasonable for a 90 minute tour, 1 drink and 3 tastings! I used this link to book: https://www.dunnetbaydistillers.co.uk/shop/distillery-tour/

As our tour guide led us round the rain fell from the sky and we knew our next stop was going to be missed. Puffin Cove is not far from the distillery and brings you further along the northern coast of Scotland and the NC500. I have left the information on the itinerary for you so you can make an informed decision on whether you make the short walk down to the cove. Again, the puffins here are mostly seen in the Spring and Summer. Wear your waterproof boots and clothes and go and have a gander! 

Accommodation in Bettyhill or Thurso will work best for tomorrow’s itinerary. Our recommendation for accommodations on this trip will soon be available for you to read in a link below. 

The rest of the evening is yours. You are in a very remote part of the NC500 which on a rainy day can seem very bleak. Remind yourself that this is all part of the journey and that the landscape will change from day to day. 

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/12/nc500-day-4-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/09/21/nc500-day-5-john-ogroats-duncansby-stacks-and-dunnet-head/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/15/highlight-five-of-the-nc500-our-wee-cabin/

NC500 Day 4 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series. 

I hope these have been of some help so far and thanks for returning!

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

Day 4 of our trip was heavily altered due to things out of our control. There was a big motorbike crash up in the town Brora, on a bridge no less, and it completely cut us off from reaching the Whaligoe Steps and Wick via the A9. I go into more detail about this detour in my ‘Highlight of the day’ blog which is linked below. As for the Whaligoe Steps, we sadly never reached them, but I’m sure with roads being clear you will find this itinerary well timed and suiting your explorer needs. Enjoy! 

Start out from your accommodation in the Inverness area to Tarbat Ness Lighthouse. The drive in is lovely and open and although the car park is rather small, making this your first stop of the day means you shouldn’t have any difficulties in parking. There was a car parking fee, but the machine was broken. Before you head over to the lighthouse itself, it is worth taking the short walk to the cliffs at the end of the car park. There are beautiful views of the cliffs and even a bench from which you can admire the lighthouse. Retrace your steps back to the car park and head up the lighthouse’s drive to give you a gradual introduction to the stripey building from afar. We spent over an hour here as we had a tinker with our drone, but I recommend anywhere between 20-40 minutes should you just be here to look around and stretch your legs. 

From here make your way to Dornoch, and if you’re feeling in the mood for something sweet, head to Cocoa Mountain on the high street. Don’t do what we did and sit inside, take your order to go and walk around the village. It really was beautiful and I wish we had done that instead. The shop is nice enough, the hot chocolate is okay, but the patrons had lots of dogs so it was nice to have a ‘ooo and ahhh’ over those furry friendlies. The service is rather slow which is surprising considering this is one of social media’s top highlights of the NC500. We found street parking only 3 minutes from the shops itself which is really useful. This is Scotland remember. London’s speeds are far far away. 

From here, follow the ‘what 3 words’ navigation to Dornoch Beaches car park below. We followed the Sat Nav and ended up driving through a golf course. And yes there were signs saying to look out for flying balls! It is said you can see seals at this beach and although we didn’t, we spent an enjoyable hour or so walking in the shallow surf and sand. You can swim here so add time to your schedule and take a load off. You have officially started the NC500! Enjoy it all. 

From here we took the journey to Big Burns Falls, which has the tiniest car park signpost you are likely to see. Again, the instructions are below for you, if you notice the Golspie Inn on the approach, turn left immediately after and you are there. Another small car park awaits you, but it is a relatively quiet place and it is not to be missed. Read my blog (linked below) on Day 4 to find out why! The walk itself is really quite humid as you find yourself between wet rocks and foliage for a majority of the time. This isn’t unpleasant and you will see for yourself why. I am so excited for you to do this walk in particular. 

From here the plan, I hope for you, works out. Drive up the east coast towards the Whaligoe Steps. There are 365 steps here, so take your time especially on the way up and remember you set your pace. I have put in the nearest navigation instructions I can find. It is likely to be busy but the car park looks big enough for short term visitors. I wish I could give more advice. But life happens in mysterious ways and we could not make it on this trip. 

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/10/nc500-day-3-itinerary/

NC500 Day 3 – Itinerary

Hello and welcome back to the Scotland itinerary series. 

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

Day 3 of our trip was altered slightly due to the reshuffle of our Loch Ness Cruise due to the Queens funeral. Instead of tucking something else into the itinerary we gave ourselves more time in each place and set pace for a leisurely day. It meant we got back to our accommodation in Strathpeffer much earlier than intended and definitely helped ease us into this mammoth trip. This little day can be as long or short as you want it to be. 

Reelig Glen is a quaint little space with easy walks to boot. We did the tall trees trail which takes you close to the river which ultimately is where our interests lie. It is a simple root with unbroken ground and slightly steep hills. Going in the morning means you get the place almost to yourself. When we arrived at the car park there was only one other vehicle to keep us company and it was the same story as when we left. There is no charge for the car park and there is a board with the two trails mapped out clearly upon it. 

As we soon noticed on our journey through Scotland, online advice often points you to an address simply by postcode. This obviously covers a large area of space and with instructions such as ‘halfways between this town and that’ can often be quite foreign to a city dweller. As in previous itineraries I am including the ‘what three words’ pinpoints to as many car parks and locations on this trip as possible. I downloaded the app before heading to Scotland and found it very user friendly. We found this app extremely valuable throughout this trip. You do not need to have a phone signal to use this method however we found we had great signals wherever we went. We were incredibly lucky in terms of signal. If mine would cut out Mr W’s was fine and vice versa. In light of this I would look into how you can use what three words app offline and then you are absolutely covered. 

Back to the itinerary. 

Head to Chanonry point if you have plenty of patience. This is a fantastic place to sit and look out. The waters here are popular for dolphin sightings and proof enough are the carvings of these beautiful creatures in the benches dotted along the beach. There is ample parking which costs £1 an hour. This is a popular place with Rv’s and I suggest you get there before midday to beat the amount of people who come here to sit, eat and watch the waters. There are bins on site too. Open to the water this site is unprotected from the wind, evident by the benches bending ever so slightly out of shape. Take a flask, sandwich and a pair of binoculars. We spent two hours here and although we didn’t see any dolphins we did see several sightings of seals which was just fantastic. If you want to make the chances of sightings more favourable, you can visit when the tides turn. There is advice that suggests the dolphins will chase the plentiful fish on a rising tide. Which is usually 1 hour after low tide. 

A very nearby visit will get your cold limbs working again with a short walk to Fairy Glen Falls in Rosemarkie. Should you find the ‘official’ car park full, don’t be deterred, there is another car park right next to the community run toilets. Both car parks at the time of our visit were free. The toilets too are free, however as they are community run, a donation is as you can imagine quite welcome. The walk to the waterfalls themselves is relatively easy and you return on the same path as you enter by. This is not one of the most remarkable waterfalls on this trip but undoubtedly has its merits and a beautiful walk on which to stretch your legs. It was particularly busy as we left as there is a caravan park between here and Chanonry Point. There were families heading to the falls on a leisurely afternoon stroll. I would say that children would have little trouble navigating this route, although those with pushchairs may struggle. 

Now, if you look at this day as a build up to the big kahuna. Rogie falls is the ONE that you’ll have been waiting for. The car park jumps out of nowhere so use the what three words app if you can. It is a big and free car park and again has public toilets. A godsend on long days like these!

The walk is very short but has some steep up and down sections. But believe me it is entirely worth it. There is a small stone wall with display boards as you reach the ledge of the gorge. You can pause here to see down into the aggressive waters below. The action however can only truly be enjoyed from the suspension bridge that crosses the river just a short walk away. I advise a phone lanyard so you do not drop your phone. Because you will need it. This place is absolutely stunning. Mr W and I both said that if we didn’t know any better we would have thought we were in Canada. To find out about our experience check out the links below. My advice is, wrap up warm, keep that camera/phone battery exceptionally high and give yourself more time than you think you need. On my last video my phone battery ran out and THAT is the only reason we left when we did. There are two trails here and naturally we took the shortest one as this is the reason we came to Rogie Falls in the first place. To see the spectacle here, it is advised to come in August and September. Please try to. It was amazing. I practically skipped back to the car in delight. 

There are no benches here but I found I could sit up on the stone ledge just to the side of the river and sat for as long as I could put up with the cold on my legs. Otherwise patience and grit will serve you wonders at this place. Focus on the very top pools of the waterfalls and try not to blink. 

Return to your accommodation for your second night in the area. Tomorrow. The true beginning of the NC500 begins!

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/08/nc500-day-2-itinerary/
https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/11/highlight-three-of-the-nc500-the-journey-upstream/

NC500 Day 2 – Itinerary

Hello and welcome back to the Scotland itinerary series. 

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

As you may have seen from the itinerary from Day 1 (link below) we started our trip on the eastside of Scotland which is quite unusual as it approaches the NC500 in an anticlockwise manner. Most tips tell you to combat the route in a clockwise form, however as we had plans in Edinburgh and we had plans to finish in the Lake District this worked better for us. Mr W had also heard a tidbit about travelling anti-clockwise too. In all honesty, everything I heard prior to our trip suggested that the east coast of Scotland is vastly different to the western side. In a way I would agree, they are very different. However, in the opinions I read it became quite obvious that people favour the west coast of the Highlands which is a shame. The east has so much to offer and I found it was just the best build up to the rest of the journey. It gradually envelops you into the route. The villages are pretty and the coastline is easier to navigate on foot. 

So without much ado, let’s continue with the itinerary. This was one of the easiest days in terms of navigation.

Day 2 was such a beautiful day filled with wonderful activities to help you stretch those legs as you introduce yourself to Scotland.

We ate in our hotel room in order to save time and money. We used our pre-packed oats and our hotel had a kettle so this really helped us. 

Start your day as early as sunlight allows. The Old PackHorse Bridge needs at least the beginnings of sunlight to fully appreciate. We made sure to get here mega early so we were alone and there was just one other vehicle in the car park when we arrived. The walk to the bridge is along the main road in the town of Carrbridge. It was very easy and yet packed a punch for those early morning thrills. To get the best view of the bridge itself there is a wooden staircase just a few metres off of the current bridge. Please take care using these stairs, they can be extremely wet. 

From here we journeyed to the House of Bruar which stands in front of the pathway to the Falls of Bruar. Parking is free. There is much advice online to use the toilets in this establishment as they are rumoured to be the ‘poshest’ toilets in the highlands. I cannot confirm or deny this fact as we were quick to leave after spending a lot more time on the hike than we originally planned. There is advice online about the walk itself. It says to turn left as you approach the first bridge on this walk. One thing I can advise to the unsteady on their feet is to cross the bridge and take the walk up the hill on the right hand side of the river. It is a steep walk which I for one could only tackle uphill. If I were presented with that steepness on the descent I would not have been happy. We did the loop walk anticlockwise in its entirety and still got to see everything. The descent on the left hand side had long stretches of large rocks embedded in dryer earth to walk down. This is something for you to consider as you approach this walk. 

Something I do wish we had done is visit the House of Bruar which is a huge complex of shops with clothing, trinkets and even plants. It looked so decadent and by the time we had returned from the falls it was really filling up. Maybe add an hour onto your day and take time to look around? I also spied a coffee area which would be a welcome treat after your walk!

Having spent so long at the falls, we head straight to Clansman Harbour, Inverness for our Loch Ness Cruise. Our cruise time was at 2pm. There are other times for the cruises so you could potentially get a cruise at 4pm if this suits you better. We went with the 50 minute Clansman cruise which was perfect for us. If we had had the time, we would have approached Inverness via Fort Augustus to give us the perfect introduction to Loch Ness. By doing this you will drive from Fort Augustus up the left hand side of the Loch to Canmans Harbour and be able to peek out at the water as you go. 

Not usually one to jump on the typical tourism bandwagon the cruise was a welcome relief from walking and driving. When you think of Inverness and Scotland in particular you, or maybe just I, always think of Nessie. So I just had to include this on our trip. It was relatively cheap and, as expected, packed with tourists. We had no trouble getting a seat. The only trouble was the grey sky and the condensation on the inside of the windows. It meant we didn’t see much of the Loch itself and as it is a looping cruise, you see the same bits out and inwards. Would I do it again? No. Am I glad we did it? Yes. It feels like a rite of passage for sure. I have linked the website below for you to book your tickets. The car park for the harbour is located across the road so don’t let the location fool you. Try and arrive ahead of your journey time as there aren’t many car park spaces and there are lots of people arriving by coach. There is a walkway that gives you safe passage under the busy road to the harbour. This is conveniently located next to a large ‘Nessie’ statue at the far end of the car park. A large gift shop can also be found at this location. 

Be aware, there are not very many gift shops on the route and therefore you should buy any desired trinkets when you see them. Prices remained similar in the few shops I did see. For example, magnets were generally £2.50-3.99.

After our brief cruise we made our way to Plodda Falls, which was well signposted on the approach. There is a charge for the car park which is very reasonable. We found there were quite a few midges here so grab those midge nets or deet sprays. We didn’t fare too badly on this entire trip but it is always good to be prepared. The waterfall here is exceptional and the observation deck is NOT to be missed. There are two trails you can try. The white marked Plodda Falls Trail and the green marked Tweedmouth Trail. Somehow we started on the white trail and finished on the green trail. I know I know, we did not start very strong on our trial following. But there are no complaints about doing it this way. If you have time constraints, definitely do the first trail and if unsure, just retrace your steps. 

A perfect end to a fantastic day! We stayed in Strathpeffer and booked in for two nights for the next few days’ activities. (Review to be linked below soon!)

Oh and your car will be absolutely filthy from the dusty, single track road to Plodda. Sorry about that! The Scottish rain will soon sort it right out.

https://www.jacobite.co.uk/tours

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/09/highlight-two-of-the-nc500-a-tall-observation/

Travel is a universal language

Sticky notes lay out in various colours across my bedroom floor. My friend and I had some planning to do. Our first trip abroad was looming and we wanted to make the most of it. We were 17 going on 18 and New York was calling. My friend had wholeheartedly been on board with going on the trip however when I asked what she wanted to do she had no idea. The pressure was on to make sure she had the best time. In my mind I had wandered those streets thousands of times. Now I was preparing to make those walks a reality. 

As we sat there on that wooden floor, we used the post it notes to piece together a plan for our 5 days in Manhattan. We put them into columns based on which days they would work best on and used a map to pinpoint which stops were close to one another. This was way before I was confident using the internet and so the process took us a few hours. And yet it was exciting. 

The trip in the Spring of 2004 was amazing. Perfect even. And therein started the development of my skills towards itinerary creation. Since then I have created itineraries for family, clients and Mr W and myself. It is an absolute joy. There is something so soothing to create something particular and bespoke. A blank piece of paper transforms into a carefully crafted and researched travel bible.

I’ve never really had much confidence in my ability. It is a mixture of self esteem issues and a bad experience working in the travel industry. Recently I have felt particularly crap about it all due to my client list becoming practically nil due to the pandemic. 

Last week, I had the best time talking to a new friend on zoom. She lives in America and we met on a facebook group in March 2020. The group was a place to talk about Italy and at the time was being flooded with questions about Covid and how the country was doing. It became very clear very quickly in which way the new virus was going and it became a space to share fears and tips on how to salvage our bookings.

Over two years later Carrie and I have shared pleasantries online. We have a similar travel history and I was able to share our trip to Italy in September 2020 with her as she is yet to rebook her own. Just a month or so ago she told me the very exciting news that she would be coming to England for the first time. She asked if I would look at her list of plans and let her know if I could recommend anything she had missed. 

I said it might be worthwhile talking ‘in person’ and after a few hiccups we finally ‘met’ last week. I’m always nervous meeting a new person but having been laid up with a bad back all day and only remembering that I was due online at the last minute I felt exceptionally unprepared. As someone who is trying to remember that the least interesting thing about myself and others is the way we look, I annoying found myself finger-brushing my hair and thanking my low-light lamp.

No worry was ever needed less. Carrie was so friendly and intrigued by my accent that we spent a good 20 minute talking about all sorts of things. Afterwards, we got down to the nitty gritty and talked incessantly about London. Although Mr W and I spend a lot of our free weekends in our capital city I do find that we avoid tourist traps and feel that our days there would not be too impressive to an out of towner. It soon became clear that the index in my mind was so much bigger than I originally thought and I found myself smiling as Carrie took copious notes. It was as if a light had blinked into life in my brain and I sat for over an hour unloading everything I knew. We agreed to meet up when she comes over and I sat in quiet contentment at my ability to spurt out knowledge so quickly. There was another half hour or so of chatter about Paris, Italy and how we generally approach travel and I felt the prickles of twinship with another soul.

With promises to share our Scotland trip with her and glance over her London itinerary upon my return I signed off for the night. I sat for a while smiling. A new friendship across the Atlantic ocean was forming and based on something so very special to me. 

It was a great pleasure to be reminded of just how much travel is embedded in my very being. I’ve been quietly simmering with pride ever since. It also reminded me of how friends can come from anywhere at any time in our lives. I am revelling in a new experience however small it may seem from the outside looking in. 

Note to self, this is just another reason to take a chance when you maybe aren’t feeling your most confident.