NC500 Day 11 – Itinerary

Hello Hello. And Happy Valentine’s day! You’d thought I’d done a runner again didn’t you? But, no I’m still here, I took the weekend off to chill with Mr W and spend some time in London and with family and friends.

Ironically, this itinerary will be a labour of love as it is heavily based around the subject of Harry Potter. The books and films of which I have grown up reading, watching and loving. They were a firm favourite of mine and my dad who would buy the newest book as soon as it was released, read it in record time and then pass it down to me. When the films were released my dad, my brothers and I would all rush to the cinemas to witness the magic. Having been an avid reader since the age of 7 these stories paved the way into adulthood for me and I will still re-read them every couple of years. My mum has recently started listening to the audio books whilst at work and then watching the movies. It speaks volumes about a story that can still entertain an audience 26 years after first being published. Whether it be for the first or twentieth time.

This itinerary covers very few activities in and around Fort William but I hope it gives you an insight into the most Harry Potter saturated day you will find in the UK.

Now,, make yourself comfy in front of the common room fire, have a chocolate frog to hand, maybe even a glass of butterbeer, keep your wand near buy in case you need to turn on the lights, ‘Lumos’ and elve into my Day 11 itinerary on the NC500. And if you’re feeling strong, shovel a heap of coal into the fire to keep this Hogwarts Express train a’movin! Choo choo!

Now, in my summary of our day (link below), I linked the website where to buy your tickets for the Jacobite Steam Train experience. In my very best opinion, I think it’s best to catch the first train of the day, for no other reason than, could you really wait until mid afternoon to jump on board? I am leaving my guided times on this itinerary for today, but please replace them with the timings of your trip, this is purely for guiding purposes.

Start your day by parking in Fort William. I’ve listed two car parks you can use. We used the ‘An Aird’ car park which is right next to the station. We arrived 1 hour and 15 minutes ahead of our departure time and found the car park to have plenty of spaces available. We bought a ticket for £4 and this gave us 10 hours. Which is really reasonable.

When booking the train tickets I added the Tour Guide booklet to our order which was handed over with our tickets. When booking the tickets I advise to choose seats on the left hand side of the train. This is in the travel direction. By doing so you will have fabulous views of the front of the train as you pass over the Glenfinnan Viaduct. Your chosen seats will also be your seats on the return, so anything you miss on the outbound journey you will be lucky enough to see on your return. Efficiency at its best!

There are toilets in the station, which carry a small charge, but as someone who doesn’t like to pee in a moving vehicle, these were greatly appreciated. In the station itself is a small cafe which sells coffees and pastries. It has roughly 20 seats and fills up fast. If you think you need to queue from arrival just so you get those very special pictures with the train, you don’t. The ticket barriers open much earlier than departure time which is great for enthusiasts of trains and Harry Potter alike. People were so friendly and patient while everyone took their turn with the absolute beauty that is the Jacobite Steam Train, or what will be referred to from now on, the Hogwarts Express.

The journey from Fort William to Mallaig takes approximately 2 hours and 15 minutes. There are beautiful views of lochs, forests and you will only see these when you drag your eyes away from the on board details. There are the luggage racks, original seats and every once in a while you are asked if you want ‘anything from the trolley’. Oh yes! Much of the souvenirs to be enjoyed are easily found online and in dedicated Potter shops around the world. But, seriously, can you resist a purchase from the Trolley of the Hogwarts Express?

There is a short scheduled stop at Glenfinnan Station so you can pop into the shop on the station platform, Harry Potter and train enthusiasts rejoice! It is a welcome site for those wanting to take more photographs with the train which is pumping out those glorious plumes of steam. The return journey does not stop in Glenfinnan so make the most of this on your outbound ride.

Arriving in Mallaig presents you with lots of opportunities for food. These establishments get crazy busy from all the passengers of the train and should you wish to explore there is a beautiful boat tour from the marina which should arrive back in time for your return train. It is in the tour companies best interest to run these tours to suit the passengers of the Hogwarts Express to maximise sales. The restaurants do get very busy but there are a few cafes to the left of the main exit of the station who sell sandwiches and hot drinks should you want something low-key and not so busy. The harbour of Mallaig is absolutely fascinating and we spent much of the time wandering there. There is also a Harry Potter store called Haggard Alley, which capitalises on the Hogwarts Expresses fans. Where the items for sale are authentic and beautiful, these can, again, be bought online for a much more reasonable price and I would take the time to wander the town to get a real feel for this fishing village.

There are public toilets a short walk from the station on the left hand side of the tracks. They are not free but you can pay by card. At the time of us needing to pee, the barriers were broken and therefore I cannot advise you how much using the facilities would cost. It is minimal I am sure.

Now comes the next part of your day. I assure you, this is the definitive way to see the Hogwarts Express cross the Glenfinnan Viaduct from the amazing viewpoint found a short walk from the Glenfinnan Visitor Centre. At first we had planned to head straight to the viewpoint to watch the train make the journey to Mallaig. However, when you take into account the driving time from Fort William and then the hiking time up to the viewpoint, it is very unlikely, HIGHLY unlikely, that you will make it. So rather than following our original plan we chose to swap our day about a bit.

We headed along the same road you drive for Glenfinnan and then kept on driving to the ‘What three words’ site below. You will find yourself on the edge of Loch Eilt. By now you’ll be thinking, another loch, really? Scotland is full of them. But this is no normal Loch, oh no, this is the Loch in which the filming for Dumbledore’s grave was filmed. Sob! Although relatively unknown 2 other people were on site while we were so I won’t pretend this is a truly hidden site however it is as close as they come. There is a layby with space for maybe 3-4 cars and I’ve given really specific location details because if you miss it, the winding A830 is an awful road to try and turn around on.

I cannot stress enough how wet the ground was here. You won’t obviously care one iota because, erm hello! But your feet will so put those walking boots on and get stuck (literally) in. You can walk from the road right up into a fern covered hill and look across to Eilean na Moin the island used for the late Headmasters final resting place. The loch itself was not used in the final edit but the island was. It is indescribable to anyone other than a Harry Potter fan to be witness to this place and it is instantly recognisable.

For your next visit you will need to plan your timing carefully. From Fort William to Mallaig, the Hogwarts Express passes over the Glenfinnan Viaduct approximately 30-35 minutes after departure. However from Mallaig to Fort William it takes approximately 1 hour 5 minutes for the train to cross the viaduct. It is therefore my advice to be at the Glenfinnan car park at least 40 minutes before the time of the train crossing. The walk from the car park snakes its way through the viaduct’s arches up a pretty steep stony hill to the viewpoint and by the by it gets BUSY! We were in a big rush so headed to the hill on the left which means the train arrived behind us and we took pictures with the train moving away from us over the viaduct. Should you wish to have the train making its way towards you you will need to head to the hill on the right. The walk to this hill looks like it took longer from the car park. Please do not be under any illusion you will get a shot of the front of the train with the cylindrical engine and name on show. The engines body only faces forward on the journey TO Mallaig and not to Fort William. In effect the engine drives backwards to Fort William and neither viewpoint at this time of day will give you that particular shot. Should you take the second train of the day you could plan to visit the viaduct in the morning to get that shot and mix the day around to suit your perfect vision.

Either way, you will need to look at the timetable on the Jacobite website to make sure of the schedule so you do not miss these beautiful moments.

We stayed in Fort William after the day’s activities. There are a plethora of restaurants, grocery shops and petrol stations in the town for you to stock up and refresh.

NC500 Day 11: Jacobite Steam Train, Loch Eilt and Glenfinnan Viaduct

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/15/highlight-11-of-the-nc500-the-hogwarts-express/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/10/nc500-day-10-itinerary/

https://westcoastrailways.co.uk/jacobite/timetables

Highlight 10 of the NC500 – The Quiraing

The plague of high internet speed is how far we’ve come to travel the world while on the comfort of our own sofas. We find the top 10 places to see when we travel to a city somewhere on this planet and end up down a wormhole filled with pictures and reviews. Unknowingly we see everything about the place we are visiting before we even set foot there.

Occasionally it means that when our very real foot sets foot in the very real site we are visiting we are underwhelmed or just confirming what the picture has already shown us. It is definitely great for those with anxiety that need to know every step of their day and google maps is great for that. But it can take away those awesome moments of discovery.

This was not one of those times, this was a time on an itinerary where we were travelling from place A to B and we found ourselves saying ‘why not’ to a stop off in between. It wasn’t high on our list of places to see on the Isle of Skye and that may come down to the descriptions online not doing it justice. We had never heard of it either. We are under no illusion that just because we haven’t heard of somewhere doesn’t mean it’s not worth visiting. If anything this little beauty has taught us that it pays to visit the unheard of sites.

To try and do this highlight is tricky. The facts are: the Quiraing is a space on the Isle of Skye where there are a series of landslips. The Quiraing section is the one which still moves yearly. Awesome? I’m just not sure.

In person, it is a network of sloping grass kissed mountains with the odd jagged statue of rock reaching into the sky. The wind literally whips around your body, slaps you in the face and laughs at your thermal wear. There are views across to the mainland of Scotland and on occasion the sun will glint on the Lochs of Hasco and Fada.

This place quite frankly is indescribable. And that’s okay. For the first time, I’m imploring you to witness it for yourself to understand. Maybe you’ll do a better job of speaking the words that this place inspires in us.

And maybe just maybe, you’ll see a fighter plane on a training flight whip past you too.

NC500 Day 10 – Itinerary

NC500 Day 10 – Fairy Glen, Quiraing and Mealt Falls

NC500 Day 10 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series.

Let’s crack on shall we, this is the itinerary for Day 10 on our NC500 tour of Scotland.

Our day changed dramatically due to the weather. So I’m going to give you our planned itinerary and you’ll be able to gain all information and thoughts about what we actually experienced here and on my summary of the day in the blogs linked below. Up until we arrived in Skye we had been very smug about how kind the weather had been to us and then… well, the waterfalls we had seen so far seemed to open above us.

Today’s plans are not for the faint hearted. It is a very packed and strenuous day with two big hikes in it. This may seem too much but it will open up all of Skye to you. The big attractions are all there for you to see and love. Enjoy!

A little advice on this one. You will want to check your sunrise/set times on this one. The activities at the beginning and end rely on seeing the sun on the horizon. I think it would create the most amazing views.

Start your morning in the dark and drive up to the Old Man of Storr. This is a hike we unluckily didn’t venture on. We sat in the car park for a long time determining whether we should attempt it as the day’s hours ticked on. We decided it wasn’t the timing we had planned and therefore left it to our return trip. I advise making this your first point of call and parking up before sunrise to guarantee a space in the very busy car park and to also see some of the most spectacular views over the Applecross Peninsula on the mainland when the sun makes its appearance. The car park charges £2 for 2 hours and there are toilets on site. Below are some pretty clear instructions to help you make this walk safely and without too much confusion. Snacks will be needed I am sure.

‘The path starts through the gate near the back of the car park.The wide path winds uphill through an area intended to regenerate with native woodland. Keep ahead/slightly right when the path forks although it doesn’t really matter as both join up later. The path passes through two gates to eventually reach the open moor with the spectacular cliffs of the Storr up ahead. The Old Man can be difficult to pick out from the cliffs behind from this point. Continue up the wide footpath. As more height is gained, look out for a clear path branching left; take this turning. The path contours a little before ascending, swinging right to climb up to the left of the Old Man. The next section of walk has some danger from rockfall – it should certainly be avoided after heavy rains. Follow a path that descends to pass around the back of the Old Man; the path is clear but crosses a short section of fallen rocks. This area – with towering cliffs and pinnacles all around – is known as the Sanctuary. Beyond the Old Man stands the Needle Rock – also known as the Cathedral, which has a window right through it near the top. Continue towards this, but turn right before reaching it to begin the descent. There are several variant paths at first but all soon join as the descent continues, passing well below the east side of the Old Man. Once back on the main path, follow it down to eventually retrace your steps back onto the made path through the felled area. Further down, you can turn right at the fork to follow an alternative, equally well made path for the descent section. This weaves about and passes a small lochan before rejoining the outward route. Continue down to return to the car park.’

Sounds impressive right? Even from the car park the view of the Old Man of Storr is impressive and should you get to experience this walk please let me know how it is. Please?

Make sure you have a big drink to replace all that expended energy.

The next stop is really easy so don’t worry about those achy legs. The car park is free (as of this blog) and it’s quite literally a minute’s walk away from the cliff’s edge. As mentioned in the previous days, itinerary sites on Isle of Skye are considerably busier than the mainland and you may therefore have a long wait for an up close photo opportunity. Be patient, it is absolutely worth it!

Unfortunately we didn’t go on the next visit. It is supposed to be great with actual dinosaur prints that aren’t roped off so you can get up close and personal. I know you are down at the water’s edge so take waterproof clothing and enjoy! Don’t linger too long, you have lots more to see and the next stop is the busiest point on today’s itinerary.

The Quiraing viewpoint is absolutely breathtaking. The smallest amount you’ll pay at the car park is £3 but you do get 3 hours. The car park is bigger than most on the island and although busy you won’t find yourself waiting long for a space to become vacant. On site there is a food van selling hot dishes to warm you up after the strong winds found here. You can spend anywhere between 20 minutes to 2 hours here. There is a hike which looked absolutely incredible from the viewpoint and if the weather had been kinder we would have definitely given it a go. Take note of the signposted areas to prevent you from quite literally slipping down to meet the land below. Wrap up warm!

Next, take the very scenic drive to Rha waterfall. You will find the road here very steep in places and much of it is single track so act as the locals do and be kind and courteous. It becomes second nature after travelling so much of the NC500 to accept the to and fro of the single track road however due to the influx of day tourists you may find some impatience forming. Remind yourself it is the journey not the destination and you’ll be fine.

I’ve given you two sets of details (both What3Words) to find Rha waterfall. One for the parking, which is free, and one for the gate which opens onto the short walk to the falls. This is a very short but rewarding walk. It is much less busy than other sites on the island and you’ll find yourself lucky to find some peace and quiet in this beautiful spot.

We found the next spot quite difficult to find and therefore I’ve given you another set of What3Words instructions. In most cases you will be given a postcode to find sites in Scotland. This covers a vast amount of space and with very little SatNav signal and/or phone signal it can become quite difficult to find places. I advise downloading the W3W app and using it offline as much as possible. The car park at the Fairy Glen in Uig is brand new and charges £2 for 2 hours. Which I think is a generous amount of time for this site. It is fairly straightforward walking around the base of these mounds. Take care if you wish to take a birds eye view, rain causes very slippery conditions and there are some fairly steep sections. As we arrived in the rain I know we didn’t fully appreciate this site which is a damn shame.

Now, the next and last stop of the day is a biggie. It’s one of the big reasons we will return to the Isle of Skye as we also missed this walk due to the weather. Neist Point Lighthouse is a 2 hour hike to the coastal area of northern Skye. There have been sightings of whales from here and in my opinion as a sunset chaser, it will be a wonderful end to a full but exceptional day. As we didn’t accomplish this walk I have given you the information below for the walk. I would like to think that a well trodden path would be easy to see but you never know!

‘Begin by following the path through the gate, which if locked can be easily walked round. Almost immediately turn left on the path, which then swings right to ease the descent to the headland far below. There is a metal handrail for most of the descent. Continue along the now level path. It is possible to detour to the right to visit the edge of the cliffs, overlooking the great prow of An t-Aigeach, the dramatic upstanding crag half way out on the headland. To the left are great views to the impressive cliffs of Waterstein Head and the Hoe, the second highest on Skye. At the highest point of the constructed path, a grassy path heads off to the right – this is an optional detour to the top of An t-Aigeach. If you decide to visit the top, take great care near the cliff edge, and retrace your steps back to the main path. As the corner is rounded the lighthouse comes into view for the first time. Continue along the path towards the lighthouse and the former keepers’ cottages. From the path junction, you can turn left along a made path to reach the crane and crane. It is also worth detouring across rougher pathless ground beyond the lighthouse complex to reach the furthest point. The return route is back the same way. It is worth detouring to the left from the path before it heads round An t-Aigeach to visit the cliff edge; from here you can watch seabirds in season but take care as the edge is, of course, unprotected.’

And there you have it. The top sites of the Isle of Skye in one day. I hope it serves you well. You deserve a big dinner and drink to toast the day.

Staying on the Isle of Skye means you need to just return to your accommodation and relax. Tomorrow we return to the mainland. Our journey draws to its conclusion. But for now, chill.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/13/highlight-10-of-the-nc500-the-quiraing/

NC500 Day 9 – Itinerary

NC500 Day 10 – Fairy Glen, Quiraing and Mealt Falls

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/13/highlight-10-of-the-nc500-the-quiraing/

Highlight 8 of the NC500 – Hartfield House Hostel

Hello! If you’ve been waiting for this blog I apologise. I’m not going into why I’ve been absent this time. I’m sure you grow weary of the reasons and are just going to continue reading about our Scotland trip. This is the highlight of day 8 and unlike several others this is based purely on the accommodation from Day 8. It was amazing!

I’d love to put a disclaimer right here about how we had been ‘gifted’ a stay at this hostel, first and foremost because we love a bargain but also due to the fact it would maybe explain my love for this place. It is often the case that a reviewer will receive a ‘kickback’ to some extent to help them write of their love of an accommodation.

As you know we do love a bargain however we were full paying guests and my opinions are based solely on our fantastic experience.

Hartfield House Hostel lies in the heart of Applecross. It is a large white building which shines like a beacon when the sun shines over the Applecross peninsula. Isn’t that just the mushiest stuff you’ve ever read?

There is a long winding driveway at the property and honestly my rising anxiousness at staying in a hostel only rose as we ambled on at the 10 miles per hour speed limit. All was forgotten as over the fences of a pasture ahead we saw the ginger and cream haired Highland Coo’s in all their glory. There they were, after over a week of being in Scotland. They slowly chewed their food while blankly staring at our approach. Our excitement was not shared by our soon to be new best friends.

Todays’ plans were strict in the sense of us arriving at the hostel. With check in at 4pm and only one washing machine and tumble dryer we were on a mission to be clean!

We were too early to check in, in fact the building was locked and so we took the time to check out our neighbours. I am ever so slightly obsessed with the Coo’s now. And I am sure I have way too many photos to share with you. But let the obsession reign supreme! I am sure they’d sooner trample me on my approach for a cuddle, stroke and loving gaze, so I am happy enough just sending my adoration from the fenced pathway. They did not care. More’s the pity.

Watching my watch carefully I raised the alarm to Mr W that check in would start in two minutes and so we returned to the huge building. As we approached the door and car came whizzing into the car park. She called over that she wouldn’t be a minute and I braced myself for what lay ahead. Our money saving schemes were behind us, we had scrimped and saved our way onto this trip, but living it was a different matter. What on earth was going to be beyond that door.

Countless times you will hear horror stories of hostels and how communal living isn’t always the cleanest. We had booked a private double room, well twin bedded room, and the toilet and shower facilities were down the hall to be shared with all other guests. The kitchen and communal spaces were also to be shared. I had visions flooding into my mind of ‘Kumbaya, My Lord’ being sung accompanied by some dreadlocked dude playing a guitar whilst others scraped together a meal of ramen and pickles. Stereotype much!

Check in was insanely easy and we were shown our room, literally walked to our room, when does that ever happen?

The room was huge. Much like the outside, the white walls absolutely shone in the daylight streaming in from the huge window and I stood absolutely astounded at its spotless nature. The beds, although not marriage friendly (though word from the wise, sleeping in separate single beds on an exhausting trip like this really does wonders), were comfy and inviting. Fluffy rugs were under foot and plugs situated around the room meant we could comfortably charge every device we had been reliant on for the trip so far. Sounds pretty normal right? Well, no, on this day, day 8, we had found our first modernised room and it was enormous. It had enough room for us, our bags and our tiredness to fit into! Now that’s something.

We took a moment to check out the bathrooms. The most ‘eeep’ inducing thing about the whole stay. Peeing in a public bathroom is not my forte. In fact I will still hold out as long as possible whilst out and about in London. On hikes I would rather pee in a field than try a public toilet and often do. It’s not necessarily just a clean thing. I think I have a shy bladder. Mr W is often the ‘lookout’ for such events and often thinks two seconds is enough of a warning for incoming walkers. For clarity, it is not. The bathroom was enormous with at least 5 toilet cubicles and 4 showers. It was insanely clean and spacious. I’m not sure what I was expecting exactly but this was far from it. It was bright and beautiful. Maybe I was expecting a dungeon. Maybe bugs.

On returning to our room we quickly decided on our form of attack for the pile of washing that had accumulated in the car. We had both only packed the very essentials for this trip and underwear was running scarce. Priority one! Then there was the clothing we had used multiple times in favour of others due to their durability and warmth. Lessons are learned on the road too kids! With two big bundles in our arms we made our way to the courtyard where the washing facilities could be found. An actual interior courtyard next to the huge glazed kitchen. Our mission to arrive on time had paid off, we were the first there. A cycle of washing and drying cost £5. As I’ve never been to a laundrette I can’t say whether this is normal or pricey but when you are paying £40 a night for two people I’m not sure it matters.

With our stomachs full from a dinner of noodles (not ramen but hey close enough) put together in a chef size kitchen area we played by the rules and tidied up after ourselves and washed and dried our dishes. We then broke the cover of our rooms and headed to the showers. Oh glorious hot water. How we take you for granted!

The cubicle was big, like for a party of 3 big, and I found myself not wanting to leave. I remember now that just the night before I had not showered due to an upset stomach and the massive need for sleep. If you have read the recap of Day 7, we had been at Achmelvich bay and my hair and skin was paying the price for being in the sandy and salty water. This shower was sent from heaven! There was someone in the cubicle next to me, I swear it was a man, the whistling just sounded manly if I’m honest and with the very shiny ceiling I’m unsure if he/they saw anything I had to offer but with the feeling of cleanliness washing over me I don’t think I cared too much. I’m not sure why a man would have been in the ladies showers but it really is hard to care when the hot water doesn’t end and the bubbles keep frothing and your hair is no longer a messy nest. I swear a seagull flew out at one point. Maybe.

Rather than walk the hallways barefoot and wrapped in a towel, I did that awkward shimmy into my trousers. Ya know the one where you’re standing on a wet floor and you dry the chosen foot as much as you can while holding your leg up and attempting to hop your way into said clothing. It’s hardly ever truly successful but always seems the more favourable option until you are face planting the cubicle wall. Feeling squeaky clean I emerged from the bathroom ready to conquer the evening.

We chose to end our night in the communal living area where I would write and Mr W would take some time ‘off’. We sat on our own sofas, next to the bay window and as the night closed around us only one other couple popped in for a look and then left.

I am under no illusion that hostels can be much busier and although we by no means visited out of season, the usual college and university students who meander through these places were back in their classes and we found ourselves the uncrowned kings of the castle. Having spent nearly two hours on our thrones and letting our freshly washed hair down, we pitter-pattered back to our room for a wonderful night’s sleep.

Robustly refreshed, we awoke exceptionally early the next day to leave. Even at 5am the smile of this place was not waning. Mr W and I, already agreeing on plans to return, retraced the road back to the peninsula road.

It is as if this place is the true prize at the end of the winding, butt clenching ride that is the Bealach Na Ba. Forget everything you think you know about hostels and book this place now!

The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself.

NC500 Day 8 – Itinerary

NC500 Day 8 – Red Point Beach, Victoria Falls and the Bealach Na Bà

Highlight 9 of the NC500 – The Fairy Pools

There are puddles of mud that threaten to spill over the top of your hiking boots, sheer drops into the pools below and more people than you have seen in the previous 8 days combined. Then… the heavens open. Struggling along the pathways becomes even harder as crowds retreat to their cars and your stubborn arse refuses to turn back. You are but a pebble trying to stand its ground against the strong incoming wave.

It does not make a blind bit of difference.

To your right are the Fairy Pools of the Isle of Skye. Further afield the towering Bruach na Frìthe and Sgùrr nan Gillean mountain peaks overlook the scene. Clouds roll over these monoliths and there is a sense of foreboding in the air. Yet your eyes search out the next cascade of water.

Something is pushing you on through the furor. Is it your constant quest for awe-inspiring scenes? Is it your stubbornness to tick items off that ever growing bucket list?

Maybe. Perhaps.

Neither or both. It really doesn’t matter.

You are here. Finally walking the landscape you’ve only ever witnessed online and it’s everything and more just to be here. It is everything to be outside hiking and enjoying moving your muscles and your body overcoming the pain it’s been experiencing in the throws of sciatica to keep going. This kind of movement isn’t punishment because you are living in a bigger body. It’s a reminder that despite your size you can do this. Despite your fear of sliding in the mud and tripping on rocks you still turned up and set your mind to do it.

Reaching the top of the pools with the rain lashing down you give a slight nod to yourself and how far you’ve come both geographically and physically. The crowds have dispersed and only the brave (or stupid) have continued. There is laughter in the air at the absurdity of it all. Why are we all drenched to the bone in this wilderness?

It is stunning. The sound of the water is very faint and almost lost in the deafening wind. Your hooded coat also blocks the sound from reaching your ears. It doesn’t matter. The vivid blues and greens on the riverbed shine like something from an alien planet. And you are reminded there and then that this is our planet. These are the sights that remind you of that fact. That this planet is beautiful and still harbours unbelievable wonders should you take a moment to go and hunt for them.

With every retracing step back down the hill, you take a moment to glance over the river and the different colours glittering up through the water as it ambles over the Scottish rock. There are purple heathers and tall yellow and green grasses. The river is not straight. It has not obliterated the terrain away. It has only ambled its way without any kind of plan. Occasionally there is evidence of a rock slide but where it has settled mosses and other fauna have sprouted. Starting new life and colour. The weaving of this river makes it impossible to see from one end to the other in one sweep. You need to appreciate each plunging pool and rapid movement as a singularity. In this way you can value every step and view. It changes and that’s okay. Take of that as you will.

Simply put, this is a river flowing down from a mountain. And you’re feeling happy.

That’s what travel does. Enlightens and inspires. It brings us back to basics and opens us up to everything we take for granted. That’s what I felt at those pools. There were no fairies. No magic. Just me, the mountains and my realisation that no matter my size, ability or thought process, I can wake up, get going and witness all the beauty around me.

The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself.

NC500 Day 9 – Itinerary

NC500 Day 9 – Isle of Skye – Fairy Pools and Talisker Bay Beach

NC500 Day 9 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series. I hope these have been of some help so far and thanks for returning! The NC500 route around Scotland is, as you may have guessed, approximately 500 miles. From our starting point in Essex, up to the route, around the Isle of Skye and back home via the Lake District we covered 2800 miles. This journey will see you cover many many miles and have your eyes peeled back as far as they will naturally go. It is a joy to travel this route and explore every corner.

145 days ago we loaded up our car with as much long life food as possible, A LOT of wet weather gear and what we like to think were sensible purchases to make our experience in the wilds of the Scottish highlands as comfortable and safe as possible. There are other blogs on my page about our purchases and how we also kept the budget down. Keep tuned in for other tips and itinerary hacks.

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below.

This is the itinerary for Day 9 of our NC500 road trip.

We stayed in Applecross on the evening of day 8 and if you haven’t read the highlight of that day, I would take a moment to read it before you decide on your accommodation!

Staying in or around Applecross will give you a good starting point for the amazing journey to the Isle of Skye. Below is a guideline for timings. There are also other visits I will suggest on this one as I have heard they’re amazing and unfortunately we didn’t make it this time.

Unfortunately our first stop of the day was closed but I have heard wonderful things about Manuelas Bakery (A87, Ardelve/Kyle IV40 8DY) which can be found on the approach to the Isle of Skye. They usually open at 8am and serve breakfast items which would be great for your journey. This place closes in the winter much like the rest of the highlands, so check out their social media pages to double and triple check that they are open. Do let me know what you think so I can incorporate this into our next trip!

Make your way to the Skye Bridge get ready for the busiest part of your journey so far. The Isle of Skye is used by many tourists as a place to see ‘all’ of Scotland in one place. There are lots of minibuses and car parks are very busy. Tour buses come here on 5 day trips from Glasgow and Glencoe. It provides people with enough insight to say they have seen Scotland without venturing too far from the main towns and airports. Each to their own and I’m taking this opportunity to warn you that you are in for a big awakening from the sleepy nature of the trip so far. Take it in your stride and remind yourself that patience is a virtue!

The main roads on the Isle of Skye are in excellent condition. Just watch out for the deer on those early morning drives. We had two very close incidents indeed.

From the Skye Bridge find your way to Coo View Point, if like me you have become enamoured with the highland cuties this is definitely a good spot to stretch the legs and take in the view and the love. Parking is more like a layby and as it is not signposted once again I have detailed the exact spot you’ll need using What 3 Words.

From here you’ll find it an easy drive down to Sligachan Bridge. The car park, although small, does empty out rather quickly owing to the very small attraction here. I advise you to allow yourself just a short amount of time here as there really is a limited amount to do and it is a small tick off the list of things to see today and the next stop needs as much time as you can muster.

The Isle of Skye Fairy Pools are exceptionally popular. We went in late September and yet the two car parks were very busy. There is a free car park on the approach to the second car park which costs £6. Now I know you will wonder why we chose the second car park and truth be told, we were just glad to be able to park at all. However in the second car park there was a new toilet block which we were exceptionally grateful for and it gave great views over to Bidean Druim nan Ramh. We did see the walk back to the first, free car park on our return from the pools and it was up a very steep road and after the 2.5 hours we spent hiking the area we were glad of our choice. The Fairy Pools are exceptional and I do wonder if they become easier to navigate in the drier summer months. I suspect people choosing to vacation within the UK during two years of disrupted travel has caused a lot of the muddy pathways to become as treacherous as they were and advise very sturdy footwear. There is so much to see and there are a lot of chances to swim in the pools. I advise going in with an open mind. This is the busiest place we went to on Skye.

From here there is a deviation from the itinerary below. A short 15 minute drive away is the Oyster Shed (W3W notifying.scored.pays.), serving you guessed it … oysters. I have heard wonderful things about this place and even though it was closed I would try and return when we are back in Skye. I advise checking their social media pages to double check when they are open and again this place will be seasonal.

Before you attempt the next walk, I advise food, keeping snacks in the car is a must while on Skye as there are very few shops dotted around and even fewer out of season. It’s peculiar to think of places having an out of season in late September and yet we found it to be the case very often. Although not particularly taxing, this walk does go on and on and I hope the pay off at the end is better for you than us. It rained the ENTIRE time. We literally walked through clouds. And yet it was still an experience that makes me laugh even now. The car park is very very small and at the time we were there only 3 cars fit. I have included the What 3 Words directions here as it is a blink and you’ll miss it kind of situation. I have tried to include the directions I used from google to guide you on your way, however should you have a phone signal using the W3W directions again (W3W aced.warned.relieves) to find Talisker beach would serve you well when you think you are lost.

‘At the end of the car park on the left hand side the public road becomes a private drive, follow the track. You will have a stone wall on your right hand side which is a large walled garden with mature trees overhanging the wall. On the left there is a grass bank. After a short walk you will get to the first metal gate, on the right by the wall there is a smaller gate head on through and continue down the drive with the stone wall on your right. You will get to a large white house with various outbuildings, the track continues on and remains clear in direction. Cross a concrete bridge and follow the track as it gently rises up to the second metal farm gate. Open the gate and head on through (carefully closing the gate behind you). You are now on the hillside where there is likely to be grazing sheep. The track continues with a slight raise. Looking ahead you will start to see the bay and the high cliffs that surround the beach. Follow the farm track which remains very clear. This track carries on to the beach and you can see most of the route ahead. Nearing the beach the track raises up towards an open gateway. Passing through the open gateway and turn right. Now with the beach in sight the path fades away. Cross a short grassy area to access the beach. The top of the beach is covered in rounded grey rocks, when the tide is lower a large grey sandy beach is exposed. On the right hand side of the beach there are high cliffs and a huge waterfall.’

I do hope your walk is better than ours as the pictures of Talisker waterfall online are absolutely stunning. Do let me know if you succeed!

After two big walks you deserve a much needed return to ‘civilisation’ and making your way to Portree does just that. Its tightly packed streets are beautiful and have several options for food. We chose to park on the Quay itself which is just next to the fish and chip shop. I highly recommend this place. There is no seating inside but grab your dish and use your dashboard as a table. You may be as lucky as us and spot a harbour seal swimming around the fishing boats looking for his next meal. ITs a beautiful spot to stop to watch the boats bob about and rest your tired feet.

Should you like one more small walk the Apothecary Tower (W3W symphony.spruced.passport) is nearby and offers views over Portree and the surrounding landscape. I haven’t included it in our itinerary below as we can’t give you a fair recommendation as we opted out of this one. We just needed to peel the soaking clothes from our bodies and sleep. Really we should have pushed ourselves. It is a ten minute walk from the quay.

Book a night’s accommodation on the Isle of Skye. Portree and the surrounding area will serve you best for tomorrow’s itinerary.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/07/highlight-8-of-the-nc500-hartfield-house-hostel/

Highlight 9 of the NC500 – The Fairy Pools

NC500 Day 8 – Itinerary

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/09/25/nc500-day-9-isle-of-skye-fairy-pools-and-talisker-bay-beach/

Highlight seven of the NC500 – Paradise

Your shoe bound foot sinks into the pristine expanse before you. It has been years since you’ve been in this situation. You feel like a child that has made a new discovery. You release your feet from their prisons and venture onto the whitest sand you have seen since your honeymoon. It is cold but soft like cotton. This must be a dream.

Leaving the car and boardwalk behind you, you feel the wind whip the tangling hair around your face and praise the chosen warm outfit of the day. As the sea retreats from the coast it leaves an untouched surface of shoreline. Even the grey clouds, that occasionally block the sun’s path to the sand, do not stop the glow of its purity. All at once you wish you could float so you can leave this piece of perfection as is and yet you are filled with joy to feel its beauty beneath you.

As you emerge from between the sand dunes you see the exceptionally calm and clear water ahead. This place is anything but normal. The sun peeks out from behind the racing clouds overhead and the whole scene explodes with colour. A hop, skip and a jump from the shoreline the waters turn turquoise. TURQUOISE!

This is my highlight from Day 7 of our recent trip to Scotland to drive the NC500 route. Can you actually believe this place is in Scotland. Scotland, Uk. The United Kingdom!

Before any kind of suspicion arrives in your mind, dear reader, my disbelief is not in some way an insult to Scotland. Of course these beautiful places can be found anywhere in the world. However, my shock, even now, lies in the fact that it has taken me over the 34 years that I have resided on this planet and in this country, to come to that conclusion. With the filters available online and on Instagram, it is often the case of finding something before you that looks nothing like the images online. Which is why I was so pleasantly surprised and shocked that Achmelvich Bay is even better than any picture I had previously seen. Although our photos look pretty damn good! ‘A’ List photographers that we are.

I have been exceptionally lucky in my life to have travelled to some pretty stunning shorelines in my life.

Cape Tribulation in Australia. Where the Daintree rainforest meets the cool blue waters that also house the Great Barrier Reef.

Three islands in the Maldives. The white sand mixed with crushed shells and coral.

The vast beaches of the Dominican Republic.

The list goes on.

But somehow, Scotland’s Achmelvich Bay transfixed my soul. Could it be the amount of time (4 years) since our last pristine beach visit? Or the freedom from the car on such a huge road trip?

Or could it quite simply be this…

Lockdown was bloody hard. 2020 and 2021 were hard. 2022 felt like it was one tentative step after the other. Watch out for potential landmines! The constant up and down nature of the news and information being thrown at us from all angles had a way of defeating, healing and crushing and restoring hope all at once. No one I know came out of those two years unscathed. And yet on that beach, it just disappeared.

It has to be said that for the few hours we paused our trip in that Bay, there were only four other visitors on the sand itself. Two braved the waters like we did. One lady stopped by for a chat. And another paddled up to her knees. In a way, Mr W and I felt like it was our own perfect paradise. It welcomed you like an old friend.

I have journeyed back to that beach many times since returning home. Albeit it from the luxury of my sofa. We know we will soon be returning to Scotland and its wondrous 500 mile route and even though there is so much more to see and explore, one thing is for sure, our feet will take us back to that paradise to once again feel in awe of this astounding country. That in itself is one thing to take from the uncertainty of life during the height of the pandemic. I have learned so much about the Uk and its pockets of joy. It came when we were forced to abandon trips abroad and opt for open spaces above all else. During the turmoil of Covid, I felt selfish to wonder if travel would ever feel the same again. Now I know the face of travel has changed for us in a huge way. We no longer only look outside our own country for escapism. We look at the country we are blessed to call home and the adventures that still await us.

The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself.

NC500 Day 7 – Itinerary

NC500 Day 7: Clashnessie Falls, Achmelvich Bay and Corrieshalloch Gorge

NC500 Day 7 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series. I hope these have been of some help so far and thanks for returning! It has been 121 days since we set off on our huge Scotland road trip. The NC500 route around Scotland is, as you may have guessed, approximately 500 miles. From our starting point in Essex, up to the route, around the Isle of Skye and back home via the Lake District we covered 2800 miles. This journey will see you cover many many miles and have your eyes peeled back as far as they will naturally go. It is a joy to travel this route and explore every corner.

121 days ago we loaded up our car with as much long life food as possible, A LOT of wet weather gear and what we like to think were sensible purchases to make our experience in the wilds of the Scottish highlands as comfortable and safe as possible. There are other blogs on my page about our purchases and how we also kept the budget down. Keep tuned in for other tips and itinerary hacks.

This is the itinerary for Day 7 of our NC500 road trip.

After staying in Lochbroom or Ullapool for the night your journey to Clashnessie Falls will take approximately 1 hour 10 minutes.

Clashnessie falls is a site dependent on the right weather conditions for two reasons. Should it rain before your visit the falls will be at their most dramatic and beautiful. However the route to the falls will be, as we found, extremely boggy and unstable. Alternatively if there has been a dry spell, of which is uncommon in the western highlands, you will find the route easier to tackle and yet be greeted upon a fine mist of a waterfall at the end of your walk. The car park can be found using the what 3 words instructions on the itinerary below. The walk from the car park to the beginning of the waterfall route is very simple. From the car park opposite the beach turn left and walk back up the road. You will pass a red phone box on your left. Keep going up the small hill and you will come to a sign post indicating where the walk to the falls begins. It is down a track and when you get to the Falls Cottage you can choose to go either across the stream using the stepping stones or to the right along the fence. Both lead you to a good view of the falls. The route from the car park to the falls should take no longer than 20-25 minutes on a good day, however considerably longer should the ground become boggy in bad weather. I would definitely plan accordingly.

The timing of this day will depend on the weather and how much you care about soggy feet, coats and bodies. Saying that, regardless of the weather the next stop is an absolutely must do. Achmelvich Bay was an absolute pleasure to visit and I’ll post the link soon to why it was my highlight of Day 7. Out of all the places we went to along the route I can hands down, without any hesitation say for both myself and Mr W that we would return to this beautiful slice of paradise. The car park is situated next to the Shore Caravan site and I suggest using (again) the what 3 words app to get you to the exact spot you need to be. The car park does have a charge, although like other sites, it is more of an invitation to pay rather than a demand. There is a single large toilet cubicle on site, which would be great should you wish to change out of swimming gear and such like. This again is chargeable, however the pay machine was broken on our arrival and we were still able to use the facilities. Out of all the activities today, should you be a brave traveller and like to swim, I would bank on spending a lot of your time here and plan your day around this particular site. There is a small cafe which sells fish and chips. Honestly, you can’t go wrong!

From here, you can pretty enjoy the route while you scope out more food to recharge your batteries. Lochinver Larder is highly rated among the NC500 enthusiasts. They will heat the pies should you desire and although pricey (£14 for two pies) they are very filled and tasty. There is nearby free parking. Next, treat yourself to a hot drink at Sovi’s Coffee. The car park is a sharp left turn en route to Ullapool and I suggest slowing down as you approach. The parking is used by hikers to the Bone Caves which takes between 30-60 minutes depending on your fitness level. Although we didn’t do this particular walk, we saw a few people coming and going which leads me to believe it is a popular spot. I have read that the route can be quite uneven and the final climb to the caves is steep. I advise some further research before planning this into your day.

After your pause for drinks, head onto Ullapool for a real treat. For the first time on your route, you will find a beautiful town with lots of shops and places to eat and explore. We ate at the Seafood Shack, and despite my hesitation with fish, I enjoyed my food immensely. The town has wide avenues and although nothing like the size of Inverness or Edinburgh it had the bustle of a small town that feels very warm in its invite. We found street parking plentiful and were lucky to park a stone throw from the Seafood Shack itself.

After you have reacquainted yourself with the familiar sights and sounds of buildings and signposted streets you will notice the return of road markings and busier roads on your journey to the Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve.

With its utterly mesmerising view of the gorge and path-making waterfall, this is an absolute must do for any visitors to the Ullapool area. Although a quick visit at just 40 minutes, its effortless snaking paths and views are the best way to end day 7. Parking was plentiful.

Finish your day by making the stunning drive to Aultbea for your overnight accommodation. The drive itself took on the coastal roads which gave dramatic views out to the Summer Isles and the dark navy waters of . On a clear day you may see the island of Lewis and Harris, an island in the Outer Hebrides.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/16/nc500-day-6-itinerary/
https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/01/17/highlight-seven-of-the-nc500-paradise/

NC500 Day 7: Clashnessie Falls, Achmelvich Bay and Corrieshalloch Gorge

Highlight six of the NC500 – The weakness in me

Life happens and then it crashes…

So here goes…

I have never pretended that I have got it all together on this blog. Mental health, PCOS and travelling are the biggest things I’ve ever talked about with you. They’re all big factors in my life and sometimes one will take precedence over the other.

With my PCOS there are huge fertility implications and a lot of my mental health problems come with the condition. It’s often when I’m planning travel or travelling that these battles will get pushed aside and sometimes they’re forgotten. It means that I feel my best because I’m not trying to conquer the demons in my head or worrying about my future with or without a child. And even as I say that I am tearing up because that is where my mental health is at the moment. The battle everyday to stay positive on the fertility side of things in our life is enormous.

For the first time in a very long time I’m dictating this blog. So what I’ll do is speak into my phone as if I’m talking to a friend and then I will go back and edit it. This means it’s much more coherent for you to read! And covers up the mistakes on the phone’s part. This just means that everything in my head is coming out as it needs to and then all I really do is add in punctuation and that means, I hate this word, I can be as ‘real’ as possible about PCOS and mental health for those of you out there that maybe need to hear this story. If I can be to my readers ,or to those who stumble across this blog who has PCOS or lives with mental health issues, someone to relate to and therefore feel less alone with these conditions, I don’t think that’s a bad thing at all.

So it’s been 3 weeks since I wrote and (if you want to just follow the link below it will go back to that blog in particular) it discussed how busy our life had been since our Scotland trip. So, we got back from Scotland on the 2nd of October and I didn’t write for 11 days. It’s now been 3 weeks since that day, so in fact it’s been nearly 5 weeks since the loss of momentum with the writing. What I found I was doing was posting the blog title and then catching up with writing later or spending a whole day just writing blog after blog and then scheduling them to publish. I wasn’t just doing one a day I was either doing 0 or 4 and it just didn’t work. Then I found myself in a pit I could not climb out of.

I’ve not sat here doing nothing. I have been really busy. We decorated our home office and that was back to the bare bones. The skirting came off, we took all the furniture out, the windowsill came.We had to do this has it’s not really been done properly in the six years we have lived here. We’ve got a lot, as you can imagine, of cameras, lenses, photography bits and travel gear in that room, as well as a computer and other you know fiddly bits. All the furniture was all dismantled and removed. It then took over a week to decorate as there was a mishap with paint where we didn’t have enough and the store no longer did that colour. I could go on but you can imagine how it eventually worked itself out.

There was a lot going on and at the same time I’ve been having some osteopathic treatment for my back. The first session, which to be honest I thought was quite tame, didn’t really make much difference to my sciatic pain and I was worried it wasn’t going to benefit me at all. The lady did discover that the bottom of my spine had twisted and therefore on the second visit she did manipulate my sacrum quite a bit and I did feel a lot more pressure in that area. Since then I have been happy with the results and the advice on how to sit and sleep moving forward is really important because that is a massive factor in the predicament I have found myself in. Unfortunately it’s just what we are used to isn’t it, we get into the same positions to feel comfortable. That has been a change in the last week, unfortunately my step nan died last week. When the opportunity arose in September to go and see her, I didn’t go because of my back issue.There was a plan that as soon as I could sit reasonably in a car again that we would travel over to Wales. Sadly, I didn’t get the chance and because of covid I haven’t seen her since late August 2019. That’s been a really harsh blow and naturally I have been beating myself up about it since. We had been writing letters to each other for the past three years and I will miss that massively.

We’ve taken our time putting the office back together so we can take advantage of space and this week I’ve capitalised on this new found sense of get up and go and decluttered the house. We aren’t necessarily messy people but the small changes have made big changes to my frame of mind. I’ve been putting picture frames on walls rather than having them on furniture, just to give the element clear space and to be honest it has really helped to have a lot more order to our home I’ve also had a clear out of my wardrobe and I’ve earn some extra money on vinted which is always great this time of year. I’ve not really experienced money troubles or worries with all the new problems with the economy but it’s always in the back of my mind. I do worry about Mr W and how he takes it all on board. So just by making those few extra pounds I hope it takes the burden off a little bit or you know shows that I’m trying. And there you go, that’s where we’re at up until today really.

The biggest change has come about in my mental health. Where a few years ago, especially during the first few months of covid in 2020, to ease my anxiety over what was happening in the world I would keep myself busy. To cover the cracks in my own problems and my own dealings with it, I would just constantly keep busy but as soon as the busy times stopped the anxieties were still there. In the last 6+ months I’ve actually tried to settle into my anxieties and just feel the feelings because they’re not going to go away. Just because you’ve cleaned your house top to bottom with a toothbrush or you’ve decided to go for a 4 hour walk, in my experience, doesn’t mean your anxieties are banished. It just pushes it aside, it doesn’t really deal with it. I’ve been focusing on what I’ve been feeling to try and process it a lot better but the problem is the deeper you go the harder it is to find your way out. Especially when you can’t pinpoint why you feel so sad. There is a lot of negativity going on in the world and my own struggles with maybe never having a child have thrown me through a loop. The past 3 to 4 weeks have possibly been the worst mental health time for me in a very very long time. What’s worse is on the outside, so as soon as I step outside our front door, I’ve almost gone back to how I used to behave. Putting on a rather poor show that everything’s fine, happy happy, happy, go lucky but as soon as I’m back home I just retreat and Mr W and I just settled into this whole routine of home life. Get up, do the dishwasher, cook dinner, watch TV, go to bed and my and Mr W’s relationship has become quite static. We’ve had a lot of time to talk over the past week about how to make some changes and see what we can do. We’ve got a few things in the pipeline over the next couple of weeks, and like I said it is really there a little things that make the biggest differences.

I will be writing again, I’m not going to sugar coat what’s been going on but I hope by looking back at the Scotland trip, because I still haven’t finished the itinerary blogs and their highlights for you, I’m hoping that it will give me some structure. Looking back as well, which I haven’t done in weeks, will remind me of that fantastic trip and will ignite in me the need (obviously) to pursue the next trip.

We have a little trip coming up in 10 days, a tiny trip, but we’re going somewhere we’ve never been before and I’m hoping I’ll be able to share it with you live so that’s something really exciting. It’ll give us a lovely little boost before Christmas. We have so many lovely things coming up over the next couple of weeks and then we are currently talking about what’s going to happen next year in terms of travel of which I’m already so excited about. Potentially we’re going to two new countries and travelling in a way we’ve not traveled before so that is really exciting. It’s obviously also something to think about logically because of the economy. I don’t want travel to be the reason we fall apart when we have responsibilities at home as well. There’s gonna be a lot of talk but I often find that that’s how we shine as a couple. We brainstorm and explore and we grow individually and together. In some way’s that’s why I write this blog because travel for me eases so many worries in my life.

I used to think it was because it was an escape, that when something bad happens I just run away but now I find it just brings out the best in me. That my anxieties just float away. Maybe it’s down to the fact that when we travel I have my itinerary and I know what to expect. There are no questions and I feel safe. I’m safe from the unknown. For instance today, our igniter broke on our oven and it seems that every year something big goes wrong in our home. You can’t predict it nor can you run away. You have to find the easiest way through anxieties or none. I also think travel just brings out the best in me and that’s because the anxieties of PCOS, mental health and homelife (to a certain degree) don’t exist in my travel brain. They’re all gone for a short portion of time. I get to exist as who I am. I don’t have PCOS nor does my brain hate me.

The plan is to continue travelling on a budget because we, quite frankly, don’t know how to go backwards. It’s not that we would not worry about money when it comes to travel, you just make it work but now we realise it’s not about the money you spend, it’s about the experience you have and they don’t have to cost the world. We have done that for so long. Since the covid pandemic really. We have changed so much as travellers that it would seem almost foreign to go backwards.

Really looking forward to the next couple of weeks and seeing what actually happens next year so stay tuned and thanks for sticking around.

Life happens

Highlight six of the NC500 – The weakness in me

This is my highlight from Day 6 of our recent trip to Scotland to drive the NC500 route.

The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself.

Wailing widow falls is 50 foot high and flows off a nearby Loch. Read the linked blog below to find out about our eventful walk to see the waterfall from above and why this part of the day was such a turn in the other direction.

As you will gather, the day so far had been really special. Smoo Cave, pristine beaches and a shoe losing incident that had me nearly peeing my pants. Although I did have to pee behind some heather eventually or actually pee my pants. The whole trip so far had been a test on whether my sciatic nerve would let me walk where and when I wanted to. So far so good. Arthurs Seat. Duncansby Stacks. Big Burn Falls. All amazing days with the stubbornness in me pushing my body to its painful limits.

Wailing Widow falls presented a new idea of waterfalls to this lover of the cascading beauties. It flows directly from Loch na Gainmhich and having seen it partially from above, it was an exciting thought to see it from the riverbed below.

Advertised as being one of the easiest and shortest walks in Scotland, my feet and back were thrilled at the idea. Something that excites me about hiking is how new it still feels to me. Having travelled extensively but never really done the Uk breaks before, I have a newfound love for hiking. It started in August 2021 when we took a short break to Northumberland and fell head over heels for the challenges of hiking the hills to reach the rewards waiting at the end of the trails. This is where my obsession with waterfalls started and in 2 short days we had hiked to 4 complete stunners. We also turned our feet to the trail alongside Hadrian’s wall to Sycamore Gap. As a complete novice, my only real piece of walking attire are my boots. When I slip them on I feel powerful and I trust them to stop me slipping and tripping. Other clothing is simple layers under a thick fleece gilet and beanie hat. I am yet to look into proper waterproofs as shopping while living in a bigger body is fraught with frustrations and feelings of inadequacies. And yet, so far, the odd rain shower has not deterred us from taking on the northern temperatures and changes in weather.

As someone who has and does travel for pleasure, I have questioned myself quite often in the past year as to why this new found enjoyment of walking has become so embedded into who I am. The pleasures I usually find on holidays are wandering around a city or laying on a beach. I sometimes wonder if this new obsession will run its course, as is so often the case for new found hobbies, and yet we are already in the midst of planning two more hiking holidays. I think something I don’t want to face up to a lot of the time is not having the confidence to do these things. I will still catch myself looking at other people on hikes and wonder what they are thinking when they are looking at me. Are they questioning whether I should be on these walks? Hell, on Arthurs seat, I came down from the top scooting on my bum and felt quite embarrassed as it is one of the first hikes we have done where we have been surrounded by hoards of people. The usual places we go to are really quiet. I scooted down the sides of two secluded waterfalls in Northumberland last year, got covered in mud and didn’t care an iota. I hate the part of myself that desperately clings to others’ perceptions of me on the path of loving myself.

I believe the reason I have enjoyed hiking so much is coming to realise that the body I live in and have hated for so long is capable of so much more than I give it credit for. Having spent many vacations walking around cities and the odd day spent trailing across London I know that my walking endurance has always been there. Yet something about the hills, rocky slopes and stumbling pathways of the UK feels different. It feels like an accomplishment to return to the car, coated in grime and sweat, having been out in the elements relying only on my body’s strength to get me through. There have been times when a simple guide on the internet will describe the walk as 2 miles and yet when you are on trail you realise this is most definitely not the case. But by the time your brain catches up with your feet and logic kicks in you are invested and it no longer matters. The journey is just as important as the ending. The legs once so fat in your mind’s eye are pushing on. The only thing that stops them is you.

That is why when planning our trip to Scotland it was less about Edinburgh and the towns and more about hikes and rivers and lochs and everything in between. Both Mr W and I feel such a great need to keep this new love for the outdoors alive that we have approached travelling in this fresh way without too much trepidation.

Maybe that is why when my confidence came crashing down around me I took it so badly.

As I said above, the advice online about the walk to Wailing Widow falls said it was a short and simple walk. We had already noticed that the western side of the Highlands was much soggier than the east and yet armed with our boots we ventured onto the trail heads held high. From only about 10 metres into the walk we noticed just how different this was from other walks we had taken in the UK. Where most trails were signposted. This was not. Where most walks had clear pathways. This did not. Where other walks had rails or even trees to cling to. This DID NOT. In fact the only picture I can paint in your mind is this. Imagine a fast flowing river on your right. It isn’t deep, it’s very clear and it is very cold. Rather than running alongside a well defined river bank, there are rocks and custard thick pools of mud that meet the waters edge. In front of you are a few deeply set footprints in the mud which help you navigate the way. The ‘path’ is not flat and seems to follow a very up and down pattern much like a constant seesawing motion along the riverbank. When the ground levels out there are enormous boulders you have to climb, stretch and pray your way over. You pray that the mud on your boots won’t cause you to slip. The rocks in the ground are not steadfast and they too seesaw in their muddy grottos under your feet.

Now, I am a stubborn person. I will always try before walking away. In fact we made it over 60% along this trail before I realised that my anxiety was taking over and my brain was no longer operating my limbs. For every step I took Mr W was checking the route beforehand. If the mud wasn’t threatening to slide my legs into the river the moving forwards were going to throw me in. After 30 minutes or so, my anxiety exploded out of my body in one of, if not THE, worst panic attacks I have ever had in my life. My whole being sensed the danger and I started shaking and crying. I clung to my husband with actual fear flooding through my veins. He tried to get me to calm down and yet I felt like I was going to die. Looking back, I know if I had fallen in the water, other than being cold and wet, I would not have died and I would have been able to stand quite easily in knee deep water. And yet, on that riverbank, with the unsteady boulders and boulders and thick mud, my brain and the logic it brings with it, shut down.

As I stood in absolute fear and panic, two women walked towards us having completed the trek. I turned quickly to hide my face. It was a response I didn’t question at the time but it is only now I know why I didn’t want them to see me. With my face strewn with tears and my lip quivering I didn’t want to be the fat girl who couldn’t complete the walk. Who am I to think they even cared about me, albeit if you see someone crying, you naturally want to check if they are okay. But who am I to think that they are considering my weight and my ability over their own footfall. My god, I need to get out of this pattern of thinking. At that moment in time, those ladies were watching their feet and the sketchy landscape around us a whole lot more than thinking about my dress size.

The truth of the matter is, and something Mr W and have spoken about at length, is that trail is really dangerous. Upon further investigation online I found a lot of advice about the walk that said how risky it was. With a clear mind upon our return I naturally started thinking about each day and visit and what they entailed. When I thought of this particular visit I started piecing together the images and realised that the slopes of the riverbank had slipped and we had been navigating the aftermath of rock and earth.

I am also now very aware that my confidence in hiking will take a hit now and again because no walk is ever going to be the same. Just because my ability is better than I thought it initially was does not mean I can do everything. When I see other people looking at me in such a mess I naturally think they are seeing my weight and coming to their own conclusions. Fortunately I have given myself a massive figurative slap round the face. My weight does not stop me stepping onto muddy river banks. Nor does it stop me balancing on a rock that is moving under my feet. My fear stops me doing those things. I am afraid because it is a new situation. I am still learning about my abilities in this new hobby.

That day, my confidence took a massive hit. I stood shaking and hysterical amongst those muddy boulders clinging to Mr W with my entire being because fear had finally found me. Why then, have I set out to describe this visit as a highlight to you?

Sitting in the car afterwards, I felt the flooding of anger replace my fear. As we drove to our next stop I watched the mountain ranges and let their calming influence take hold of me. This was one moment in a wonderful day. You have to take the bad with the good. Not two hours before had I been bent double, clenching my legs together, unable to breathe through the laughter. This was not a bad day. It was a bad paragraph in what was a pretty phenomenal chapter.

I still sit here and regret not overcoming my fears that day. I regret that so far I haven’t seen that waterfall and I regret crumbling so much like that riverbank. My fear in the moment engulfed my stubbornness to carry on and I learned that as much as I need to recognise the strengths in my body, I need to acknowledge the weaknesses too. There was a reason for me to be scared that day. I had reached the limits of what I was used to and what I could push myself to do. As someone living in a bigger body and hating that body for my whole life I will always blame my size for my physical limitations and yet that day it was my mind that stopped and said no. As someone who has been bigger than most people my age in every situation I will also put limitations on what I should or should not be doing. Don’t get up and dance at the wedding reception, I tell myself, people will only stare. Don’t wear the dungarees, it’ll show your belly in a way people aren’t used to. Don’t hike that river, your legs can’t carry you.

What a load of bull. Since covid I have danced at parties without the need of an alcoholic drink to stop that voice. I have bought dungarees and am slowly starting to change my wardrobe to reflect the style I think I like. It is hard to say if I do like something for sure or not because I don’t think I’ve ever found a style I am comfortable in, but that is one huge other discussion I will find time to go over at some point. I have believed my legs can carry me over hills, rock faces and treacherous river banks. It is only when my mind shut my body down that I recognised the weaknesses in me deserve a voice. And they have nothing to do with my weight.

NC500 Day 6 – Itinerary

NC500 Day 6 – Smoo Cave, Wailing Widow Falls and Ardvrech Castle

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