Tag: Scotland

Scotland, where do I start…

Where do I start…

I sort of disappeared didn’t I? An avid reader actually thought something had happened to us. But I promise day 13, 14, and 15 of our trip ended quite simply and without too much to talk about. It was also our wedding anniversary on day 13 and with a few disappointments in our plans for the day it was easier to focus on us and enjoy the day for what it was than what it could have been. 

Over the coming weeks, I’ll be re-visiting our trip over on my instagram and facebook pages with all the photos I have that I think are worthy of sharing, there are over 2000, and I’ll be updating all the daily itineraries so you can benefit from our learnings. There will also be a mini Lake District blog coming soon and I’ll be discussing just how successful being ultra prepared was. 

So there is a lot in the pipeline and I honestly can’t believe it has been a week since I’ve written. In a way it’s been nice to have a break, as you can imagine writing while travelling did not leave me with a lot of time to relax. It was often the case that the spare hour or so that I had in the evenings, between accommodation arrival and bedtime was purely given over to recapping the day. At times, it felt like a slog, one evening in particular I was puking up my dinner (suspected sun stroke, haha yep, in Scotland) and then back to writing ten minutes later. But most of the time, it really did help me wind down and process the day in a really special way. 

Moving forward I’ll be able to pick apart the days further which will bring the memories flooding back. Which I am really looking forward to. Scotland really was a picture perfect experience. Every twist and turn of the roads gave new light and insight into the landscape and not once did we hesitate to turn round to peek at another roadside waterfall or river. It is safe to say we are addicted!

Down to restraints of weather, time and sometimes physical ability (hi sciatica, you utter tw*t) we actually only managed about 90% of our visits which isn’t something to sniff at but I am rather hard on myself for not achieving the desired 100%!

We also found that a lot of the businesses we were aiming to visit had changed their timings at the last minute or were closed due to unforeseen circumstances. As you can imagine, having missed some bits of this trip means I have already started building a ‘Scotland 2.0’ itinerary and it is already incorporating places we want to go to again. I’ll be discussing these in my ‘Highlights of Scotland’ blogs (also coming soon). So strap on those reading glasses, for it is going to be a whirlwind, much like the windy conditions we are experiencing in Essex today, for the Scotland information coming your way is going to be full on! All in all, I estimate there will be approximately 25 blogs to entice you to try this trip for yourself. 

This month is proving to be really quite busy for Mr W and I. We have a birthday party for a rather special lady to plan, a trip up north to negotiate, a few days out in London, work trips and friends to catch up with. November too, is getting rather full! In the coming weeks we will be setting our travel plans for 2023 (crazy!) and the logistics that they will present.  

Something I have realised in the last three weeks is just how special travel is to me. It is a given that I find travel special having started this blog and taking you through my history and present relationships with worldwide travel. And yet, this trip has ultimately taught me so much about myself and how my (and Mr W’s) tastes have changed. Scotland has opened my eyes to what travel can be moving forward and how you travel ultimately being such an important factor of the trip. So until I really get stuck in to the future blogs, I wanted to say a huge thankyou to Mr W for all the support on this trip, it was NOT easy, sciatica is no laughing matter and on day 2 I was extremely close to coming home, all the driving and all the hysterical laughs that he pulled out of me. It’s also prudent to point out how much trust he had in me in planning this trip. It was enormous in scale and I’m grateful we came out the otherside with more love than ever. Although I’m sure Mr W would gratefully have thrown me off a cliff at some points. 

And then, there are the thank you’s to you all. The people who continue to read about our lives and those who share and invite new people to read along. It’s given me a sense of purpose back and isn’t that just a wonderful thing!

Oh! And one final little preview, I will be reviewing all of our accommodation and giving you all some foodie tidbits. As always I will be completely honest and that means sharing the good and the bad. Once the blogs mentioned in this post have been written they will be linked down below and also on the original ‘NC500 Day XX’ Blogs too. I’ll incorporate all the pre-packed food and the packed essentials into these blogs so you can determine for yourself how worthwhile it all is.

Till then… 

NC500 Day 8 – Red Point Beach, Victoria Falls and the Bealach Na Bà

Miles: 95. Wildlife: 14 deer and a heron. Camper Vans: 30+. Steps: 5808.

Cost of pre-bought food: £8.40 approximately
Extra costs: nothing

Waking up the night after you were poorly is never going to be pleasant and Scotland did not help with its grey skies this morning. Arriving at the accommodation in the rain last night and waking up to billowing clouds this morning was a total mood killer. We had a simple breakfast of toast at our accommodation and then made for the road. Today would be better. I’m just stubborn that way. 

As the day around us woke up, we passed something I feel like I have only seen in a movie before. Loch Bad na-Achlaise in Gairloch acted like a mirror showcasing the mountain behind it and the morning sky. Not a single ripple marked its surface and it was utterly mesmerising to behold. Its glassy surface was untouched by the waking day.  

We drove from Aultbea to Red Point beach where we found ourselves rather uninspired by the lack of redness in the sand. After all this was the draw and it fell rather flat. In fact we spent more time talking to the farmer’s cows than looking at the disappointing beach.

We dragged our tired bodies up to the viewpoint at the top of the sand dune (you see, what exhausted body doesn’t need an early morning walk up the side of a deep, tilted carpet of sand) and through the early morning haze we saw the Isle of Skye. Now, we actually saw it from the road, but either way, it was amazing seeing it before we head there tomorrow. Mr W pointed out that the beach itself was not as good as Achmelvich yesterday and I said you simply couldn’t compare the two. This beach was more about the different colour of the sand and how peculiar it was, yesterday was about pure luxury and the shock factor of how somewhere so picture postcard perfect could be in the UK.

The cows were bloody cute by the way. Although no amount of hellos could tempt them for a big ol pat on the head. 

Determined, we reshuffled our belongings in the car to try and create some order and then pursued the day ahead. As we approached our next stop, the early grey clouds lifted and blue skies pushed the white fluffy clouds around above us. The sun was burning hot and I couldn’t help but feel myself come to life. How is it that we prepared for monsoons and were given this?

Victoria Falls is one of the first places that we have visited on the west side of the highlands that has been signposted. The walk is very short from the car park and on a level path. Excellent news for the tired traveller. You are greeted by a large wooden viewpoint that gives you the most spectacular vantage point for the falls across the gorge. This place was busy! People coming up, snapping their cameras and leaving. It prompted me to remind myself to take in a moment rather than just capture it on film. It’s important to be able to look back at the pictures you take and remember just why you thought it was prudent to take the shot in the first place. Was it amazing? Was it beautiful? What did you enjoy about it? I like to think by writing these pieces and taking my photos I am creating something not just for the passing reader but for me to look back on and remember all these wonderful moments. Victoria Falls did not disappoint and I pushed my aches and pains to the back of my mind to hike up the hill and look down on the falls from above. They are loud and impressive. Just as they should be. Behind the falls are large sloping rocks where a slim, wide curtain of water flows freely. It was like a draping of silver that had caught the light. Transfixing.

Beyond the falls all 13 miles of Loch Maree stretched back to the horizon and matched the sky with its light blue surface. What a beautiful place to take a moment to yourself.

After our short visit to Victoria falls, we paused at the Glen Docherty viewpoint and then made the very journey we had been waiting for for so long. 

The Bealach Na Bà is a single track road that winds its way through the Applecross Peninsula. It reaches a height of over 2000ft and carries a fair share of warnings for new drivers and larger vehicles. It is the steepest ascending road in the UK and was absolutely thrilling. The tight hairpin turns were some of the only parts that had barriers where all others just used the safety of prayer and perfect steering. At the very top of the pass you can park and jump out of the car to shake off the adrenalin (or the poop out of your pants) and enjoy the tremendous view over the mountain to the Isle of Skye. Everyone who was emerging from their cars was smiling and laughing about the journey they had just taken. It was a very happy place. 

I’m starting to realise that this IS a happy place. 90% of the people you pass say hello. We’ve stopped and talked to so many new people and it’s been so easy to just chit chat. It’s clear to see why this country deserves its place on the must-see travel lists. Will we come back? Absolutely. We just need time to recover from this visit first!   

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/01/20/nc500-day-8-itinerary/

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NC500 Day 4: Tarbat Ness Lighthouse, Dornoch Beach and Big Burns Falls

Miles: 205 Wildlife: one bouncy deer and cormorants. Camper Vans: 30+. Steps: 11652.

Cost of pre-bought food: £3.24 approximately
Extra costs: Breakfast £16, Cocoa mountain £11.40, Dinner £24

Today something kind of special happened. 

We cancelled our first plan and the world didn’t implode. After a pretty crappy night’s sleep and wanting to arrive earlier at our accommodation this evening we made the choice to have a decent breakfast, at Tesco (haha), and spread our day out on a kinder schedule. 

With bellies full of coffee and tasty hot food we arrived at our first destination by 10am. With a very short walk from the car we approached Tarbat Lighthouse as the rain clouds chased away the morning sunrise. Having invested in a drone Mr W and I took the extra time to perform our third test flight. Very aware of the regulations concerning flying drones near people and cars, we landed ‘Marv’ on the path with us as a couple approached with their pooch. Obviously I asked if I could say hello and black Lab ‘Malt’ gave me a slobbery hello in return. The couple were interested in our photography and asked where we were from and where we would be going in Scotland. We said all the way up and the man said, ‘oh up to Shetland?’ You learn something new every day. Down in Essex, all the way up means to the top of mainland Scotland. But here, it means Orkney and the Shetland Islands. The woman told us she lives nearby and the loop around the lighthouse was their dog walking route. I mean…! The man, unfortunately we didn’t get their names, was dressed in a red coat which had stitching that said he was part of an arctic expedition in 2007. Absolutely crazy who you meet on your travels isn’t it? People here are so friendly! We said goodbye as they said the weather could turn any minute. 

Playing the director while Mr W drove the drone was fun and helped us see our surroundings from an eagle eye perspective. The lighthouse itself is beautiful and with a free car park you can’t go wrong. On the road that leads through Tain there was a field lined with haybales and then sunflowers, as they danced in the wind I felt my mind lift from its tired slumber. As we drove on to our next stop a deer ran alongside our car and I felt the thrill of the wildness of this country.  

We made a brief stop in Dornoch to try the hot chocolate at Cocoa Mountain, tasty if you need a sugary pick up, and then made our way onto Dornoch beach. The beach is found if you drive right through the town, which is absolutely beautiful, as we have found other little towns along our route to be. The beach is famous for its seal watching and I was eager to ‘cop a squat’ and look out to sea. It became pretty clear really quickly that the chance of seeing the seals was very small. The water was very shallow and the seals would be swimming quite a way out if they were there at all. I took the opportunity to step into the North Sea for the first time in my life and as the cool waters washed over my tired feet I felt the disappointment leave my mind. There are just some things you can’t control. I spent a while watching the sunlight reflect on the wet sand and wandered back to the car. Feet numb I snuggled into my seat and directed Mr W to the next stop. 

Now, in the most recent of years have seen some waterfalls and now I have seen Big Burns Falls. The falls are ferocious and crash down between two huge rock walls and make a dramatic display at the end of the wooden walkway which juts out over the plunge pool. Are they impressive? Absolutely. Was it the best part of the walk? No. On our way to Wick from Inverness we stopped by Big Burns Falls because I am in love with waterfalls. If you follow the postcode of KW10 6RS and turn left immediately after the Golspie Inn you will find a small free car park. The walk in total takes approximately 1 hour 15 minutes. I advise you to allocate at least 90 minutes. The walk itself is reasonably easy with some semi-steep walkways, uneven steps and muddy paths. The humidity on a sunny day is quite remarkable. But honestly, I am obsessed with one section of this walk. 

About two thirds of the way into the route there is a wooden bridge across the river which presents you with an absolutely magical spectacle. There is an entire wall of vibrant mosses with hundreds of individual trickles and droplets playing chase through and over them. This wall of water is absolutely mesmerising. I stood for a very long time before and beneath this natural masterpiece and although soaked after the light shower I would have stayed all day. Never before have I experienced something so magical and beautiful in my life. I felt that should I wish for it, a droplet could land upon me and make my dreams come true. 

And just there is where I will leave you with our story from today. Come back tomorrow, won’t you?

NC500 Day 4 – Itinerary
Highlight four of the NC500 – My husband, the rally driver!

NC500 Day 3 – Reelig Glen, Chanonry Point and Rogie Falls

Miles: 66. Wildlife: seals, salmon and cormorants. Camper Vans: 9. Steps: 12043.

Cost of pre-bought food: £7.50 approximately

Extra costs: nil

7 and ¾ hours! That’s how much sleep I had last night. A-ma-zing! This quirky hotel is dark and silent. And I was ever so slightly knackered.

We didn’t need to leave the hotel until 8:30am and boy did we make the most of the extra time. Even though we were awake at 6:15, we lounged around for a good while and pondered the day ahead.



We had a breakfast of porridge, banana and seeds with a proper mank cup of coffee. Down the drain it went.

The first stop of the day was a short drive away and arriving at 9am meant we were only one of two cars there. Reelig Glen Tall Trees trail takes approximately one hour if you don’t take any photo breaks. And we took a rather lengthy pitstop when out of the trees bounced a very happy puppy. Yes, you guessed it, gone was my concentration and even any pain I still had in my back. Down to my knees on the muddy floor I went and up at me did this special little guy jump. Oh my gosh the puppy love. And his very big feet! His owners soon followed and we stood chatting for quite some time about photography and travelling the UK. Puppy Mungo kept running off to explore but was so good at coming back when either Alison or Paul called.

The glen itself was full of lush green ferns and autumn colours underfoot. The small river calmly passed by with the occasional babbling noise over rocks and twigs. Above the tree canopy the run had risen and the sky showed hints of blue. Although wet and steep in places the visit was made by the discovery of a very old stone bridge which left to the woodland has grown wild itself. Ferns and grasses have welcomed the stone back to the forest floor by laying their carpet upon it.



Happy to have made the short trip we refueled with a breakfast bar courtesy of our food store in the car and set off for our next port of call.

Chanonry point has long been one of the big draws for me on this trip. With regular sightings of dolphins I knew I needed to check it out. On arrival I was pleasantly surprised at the number of car park spaces and all the benches and seats from which you could gaze out to the water. Over time the chunky wooden table tops have weather to such a degree that they have started to curve out of shape. I was reminded how extreme the weather can get in Scotland and was glad of the fairly mild weather we have so far experienced.

With binoculars in hand we sat in quiet patience watching the calm waters of the Moray Firth. The odd cormorant kept diving for his lunch as we kept out vigil. With no dolphin in sight I scoured the waters for movement. And there it was. A rounder shape than expected but something was there. A seal. Not too far from the water’s edge. Happily swimming along. Unreal. For the next hour or so we kept a eager eye out for more movement and although we didn’t see any dolphins we saw at least six more seals bobbing up and diving back under. The whole scene was so peaceful.


In front of me I had the Queen’s funeral on my phone and I am so glad to say I could pay my respects by tuning in. It is not often you can see history literally written before your eyes and as the sun made its way across the sky chasing away the clouds and dancing its light on the waters before me I was reminded to take every opportunity to make your life great. I feel very privileged to be able to travel the way I do and make these memories. Life is too short. We spent longer than intended at Chanonry point. We used our travel kettle to make some tea, had a spot of lunch and continued our glancing up at the Moray Firth to catch a glimpse of wildlife. The waters current there is what brings such a variety of life to its depths and from our seats we could see the different textures of water on the surface. It was simply beautiful.



After slurping our tea, we left for Fairy Glen Falls. It is a very short drive from Chanonry point and even though the free car park was exceptionally full we were able to find space in the Rosemarkie community car park. Which as well as being free has toilets too. Winner!

The walk to Fairy Glen Falls is pretty enough but having experienced quite a few lush green woodlands and their waterfalls I feel we have been extremely spoiled in the past. As pretty as this place is and a wonderful spot to while away an hour I’m unsure it has the wow factor.



Now, Rogie Falls on the other hand…

The falls sit a very short way from the car park and even though it has some steep sections I have taken the approach to speed up to lessen the impact on my back and it definitely made a difference. The falls themselves are enormous. Not too tall, but wide and vast in stature. If I hadn’t known any better I would have thought I’d been transported to Canada. The ferocity of the water was mind boggling as it crashed over the scattered boulders in the gorge. Here you will find a suspension bridge that puts you front and centre to the power of this monster!



We took the Salmon Trail from the car park and you might be wondering why it is named so. Well if you are visiting between August and October, you may well find out. From the pools beneath the thundering falls came the wriggling bodies of salmon trying to make their way upstream. At first I whooped with complete glee at their appearance. I could not help myself. It was like nothing I have ever seen before and I was sure I could hear David Attenborough in my head marveling at the scene unfolding.

The salmon, truth be told, had no chance of reaching the top of the falls but they gave it a bloody good go. There is another smaller route nearby, a man-made salmon ‘ladder’ and we also saw some making the journey up that way. It was a spectacle I will not forget for a very long time. Absolutely fascinating.



After realising we had been there for over half an hour just waiting for another fish to attempt the vault we tore our eyes away from the water to drive back to our accommodation. At the top viewpoint we took one final glimpse and cheered at the last salmon as it made the biggest leap yet.

What a day. Seals, a puppy and salmon. Oh my!


Cost of pre-bought food: £8.05 approximately, all meals
Extra costs: Nothing

Title photo by Dave Watson
Please check out his work on https://www.instagram.com/davewatson_uk/ or at https://davewatson1980.picfair.com

NC500 Day 3 – Itinerary
Highlight three of the NC500 – The journey upstream








NC500 Day 2 – Bruar, Loch Ness and Plodda Falls

Miles: 205. Wildlife: some pretty birds. Camper Vans: 21. Steps: 13026.

Cost of pre-bought food: £8.30 approximately. Extra costs: Two magnets £8.

So where do I start?

Let’s start with the bad, for those wondering, my back issue got progressively worse over night and after a particularly bad start Mr W and I both started wondering if this trip was going to end prematurely. The pain was unreal, we had to keep stopping before our first two visits just so I could try and walk it off. I have felt extremely guilty for two days now about how I am ruining the trip and how rapidly it was going down the drain. The tears have fallen so freely down my cheeks it is embarrassing. Mr W on the other hand has been very supportive and at a real loss at what to do for the best. And then he came up with a solution. 

Join us on our second day. 

We had a cheap breakfast of porridge with some seeds and banana chips which set us up for the busy day ahead. Usually I’m not a fan but it was actually tasty. Something about saving money flares up the ol’ appetite. Ha!

Our first very brief stop was at the Old Pack Horse Bridge in Carrbridge. The sun was completely shrouded in heavy clouds and there was a very fine mist hanging in the air. We both dragged my arse out of the car and walked the 200 yards from the free car park to the outstanding piece of history. Standing there after I took the absolutely necessary photos I marvelled at how such a masterpiece is even possible. The whole bridge is circular in its shape and made of rough stone. It is now closed to the public and with good reason. I got the heebie jeebies just looking at it. 

As we hobbled my arse back to the car it was now very clear that the sunshine from Edinburgh was not going to reach us up in the Cairngorms. Woolly hats were thrown on and we thanked them for their presence. On our journey through the mountain roads towards our next stop we drove through Aviemore and should we return I would love to stop here for a wander. It was absolutely stunning. Mr W said it reminded him of a skiing village and I told him that people did indeed come here to ski. There is even a funicular, which at my last look was still closed. Pretty walkways framed the many expensive clothing shops and flower baskets were sprinkled around everywhere. Beautiful. Truly.

The next stop was the Falls of Bruar. It’s free and easy parking in the grounds of the House of Bruar and rumour has it they have the poshest toilets in the highlands. I can neither confirm or deny this as one did pee in the bushes whilst on the trail. Sorry bout that. Now this walk should take 1 hour by the guide on arrival. But we took slightly longer as we took photos and plenty of breaks to rest. The walk is pretty enough, but the real reason to come here is the Falls. The initial spectacle you find is on the lower bridge and it is fascinating how it frames the water and surrounding vegetation. It reminds me of something from Lord of the Rings.

We chose to cross the bridge and approach the top bridge from the right hand side. The ascent is steep with loose shingle and even though coming down on the left hand side is still fraught with loose stones, I found there were large rocks and the occasional staircase to help the bambi-footed amongst us. Either way the bridge at the very top of the circular walk is an architectural marvel and even though you don’t get as good a view of the actual bridge from the walkways, looking down into the gorge is awe inspiring. Well worth the walk!

After we got back to the car, it became very apparent at how much these hikes were troubling my bastard of a back. So Mr W fashioned a laying down arrangement in the car and the joy on my face with the feeling of utter comfort shone out brighter than the missing sun. For the first time in weeks my back felt normal, ish. I’d say the pain went from 7/10 to  1/10. 

To keep on schedule, we drove straight up to Inverness and then onto Loch Ness rather than through Fort Augustus. With new gusto and spring in my step we ventured on a boat cruise to look for the legendary Nessie. I am most disappointed to say that he/she/they did NOT show their face and I am sure should it have been a sunnier day they may have popped up and waved hello. Would I do the boat tour again? No. Is it a rite of passage when in Inverness, absolutely. The loch itself holds more water than all the other lakes in the UK combined. I mean…!!

With the mist rolling over the hills and the rain setting in, we threw caution to the wind and zigzagged our way down a single track road. Through tall fir trees and moss covered rocks we explored until signs confirmed we were on the right path. Parking up at another free car park (budget busting brilliant news!), we geared up for a short walk. The rain had stopped and with my returned enthusiasm for this trip we slipped back into our hiking ways. We negotiated steep stairways, stony paths and the odd root ramble to find ourselves at the foot of a rather large waterfall. Plodda falls is 46 metres high and a true beauty. It is tall enough to bring out the ‘ooo’s’ but angelically serene enough to bring out the ‘ahhh’s’ too. As the white frothy water cascades down it finds itself in stark contrast to the dark black rock behind it.

If you are up for shorter hikes with big rewards this one is definitely for you. We were on the trail for a maximum of an hour. And we took lots of breaks and photos. 

Today has been the epitome of a bad day being turned around. I believe that is because of Mr W and think everyone should have one for themselves. Just not mine. He is mine. 

2nd photo in article supplied by Dave Watson
Please check out his work on https://www.instagram.com/davewatson_uk/ or at https://davewatson1980.picfair.com

NC500 Day 2 – Itinerary
Highlight two of the NC500 – A tall observation

NC500 Day 1- Edinburgh and the Cairngorms.

Miles: 368. Wildlife: nil but a city pigeon. Camper Vans: 9. Steps: 8767.

Technically, TECHNICALLY, we are yet to reach the NC500 route, but this trip revolves around it. So buckle up because this is day one!

I’ll start with last night as I left you with the beginning of our journey on yesterday’s blog. (Link below.) We drove from Essex to Thirsk, York. Upon our arrival into this small, charming town we were witnesses to the most glorious sunset. We had booked into a Wetherspoons hotel, something Mr W and I have never done. The joy being that for our first night we had a budget busting dinner of a mixed grill, BBQ chicken melt and a nice cold beer and cider. Can’t go wrong really can you?

On returning to the room via the labyrinthine hallways and exceptionally creaky, sloped floors we couldn’t help but laugh. I looked out of the sash window, gotta love a sash window, at the cobbled town square below and felt the familiar zing of escapism flood my body.

Bed was calling.

This morning we woke up at 4:25am and creaked about our room getting clothes on and our bags ready to leave. With fruit and pastries in the car we didn’t have to fuss over making breakfast and was glad to just get on the road. As we navigated the hallways of the hotel I felt like I was sneaking about and couldn’t stop the giggling in my head. We were in the car by 4:53am, with the thermometer reading 2° and set off for Edinburgh.

We were on the road for at least 90 minutes before any hint of the sunrise appeared. The roads were pitch black and very quiet. The journey was uneventful, although we went through a toll tunnel, the Tyne tunnel, which wasn’t signposted and now have to pay £1.90 before midnight or face a fine so look out for that. Live and learn. We made a few stops along the way so I could try and hobble my back pain away and the morning wind was absolutely bitter. Upon our arrival into Edinburgh we found that our usual, trusty, free parking area was completely full. I quickly managed to find an alternative and am absolutely stunned at the gem I found. Should you ever visit Edinburgh on a weekend head to the Broad Pavement car park. At the time of writing this blog, it is free on weekends and is right next to Holyroodhouse Park. It is perfect for walking to the Royal Mile or, like us, climbing Arthur’s Seat. 

Now, here’s where the day became tricky. My back pain has been bad. And it’s becoming harder to deal with. So Mr W has been wondering if I can even do these big hikes. Now I am a stubborn woman 90% of the time, but when the pain is this bad, I crumble. These past two weeks I have tried everything to ease off this torment and nothing yet has worked. So on arrival at our first stop today we made a promise that if I could not do it, we would leave. I hated the thought of not completing one of our plans but as Mr W put it, if I made it worse by forcing it then the whole trip was in jeopardy. 

With this in mind, we wrapped up against the Scottish wind and started our way up the extinct volcano. I had previously looked online for route advice and found that the blue route was the easiest and would take 1-2 hours. I gave us 3 hours so we could stop and take pictures without feeling the need to rush. 

The route started as a gentle incline wjth a level pathway which soon enough turned into a winding shingle slope. With medium size rocks littered about it wasn’t too strenuous. As the incline grew steeper more rocks and shingle covered the pathway. After a while the path gave birth to huge steps of rock which Mr W had to help me climb. It was only on inspection at the very top of this section that we realised that somehow we had managed to turn away from the blue route and take the much harder, steeper, rockier red route to the summit. Oh yes, we are the kind of people that need signposts every 100 metres or we will just follow the crowds. And most of the crowd we followed were runners who had clearly done this a few times before. I laugh now, internally, but at the time all I kept saying was ‘Jesus’ and ‘What the f**k’ and ‘Who on earth can climb that step, not me, I’m a midget!’. 

With Mr W’s guidance, a hell of a lot of guidance might I add, we reached the top. We did it! I did it! My crappy back let me do it! The very last portion of the ‘walk’ had me in a scramble using my hands to pull my body up the rocky path with fears of slipping down the hill. There wasn’t an absolute pathway up so everyone was eyeing up the best route for them and we all looked like ants making our way into our nest. The view from the top was of pure sunlight and the image of Edinburgh was blurred by the tears in my eyes courtesy of the bitingly frigid wind. But I could have been looking at a gravel pit for all it mattered, we made it to the top and I felt like I was on cloud nine. 250 metres up, up, up. 

We spent a few moments looking out over the city, pointing out Calton Hill and Edinburgh Castle before feeling the need to move on. The whole walk from the car door and back again took us 2 hours and 11 minutes. Pretty good eh?

On our walk down, a man asked us to take a picture of him and his partner, as Mr W clicked away, he told us in broken English, I think he was Scandinavian, that he had just proposed and that she had said yes. How amazing is that? Being a part of someone’s story like that! I became my usual shrill self with excitement and Mr W congratulated them. What a moment!

We made it back to the car with lots of time spare and wolfed down a lunch of tinned spaghetti and something sweet. The next visit was up in the air due to the Queen’s passing last week. We were due to park on the Balmoral Estate and do a short walk up to Prince Albert’s Cairn. With the car park potentially too busy with well-wishers it was a case of driving by and seeing what was happening. I can happily say we managed to get a space really easily and even though the walk to the Cairn was closed, along with the rest of the estate, we spent some time paying our respects at the gates and looking over the flowers. I am really glad we got the opportunity to stop, being away from London and home for the funeral feels very strange and this went a long way for me to feel like we did something in our own way. The swaths of roses, lilies and sunflowers against the stone walls glittered with raindrops and looked like an ornate carpet. Such a simple way to show care and love and yet transcendent in its admiration and attention. 

Making a promise that we would return one day to complete our walk, we wandered back to the car commenting on how we would be arriving earlier than planned at our hotel. Winner!

And then… our sat nav started playing silly buggers. We found one of the roads on our route through the Cairngorms National Park had been closed and requested a re-route. This was done and admiring the beauty of the Cairngorms passed the time easily enough. That is until we realised we had been down this particular road before and not too long after we found ourselves back at the Balmoral car park. No matter what we did to the demon robot it could not find its way around the closed road and without a signal on my phone, we felt at a complete loss. 

After driving for maybe 5 minutes, I was able to negotiate with my phone and picked up a route that worked. The hour journey took double that and Mr W and I could not help but dump our bags with glee once reaching our hotel room. 

Tomorrow we will laugh, forgive the sat nav and move on. But tonight, we are nursing our shattered bodies, tired brains and thanking the local ‘The Wee Puffin’ restaurant for the most delicious takeaway food… that we ate wearing our pants… in silence.

Highlight one of the NC500 – A royal goodbye
NC500 Day 1 – Itinerary
Tears of travel anxiety

Tears of travel anxiety

Well, it is here. The day I’ve been rattling on about ALL year long. Mr W and I are embarking on a fifteen day tour of Scotland. It is the longest trip we’ll have ever taken together and the most intricately planned one too.

We will be staying in 14 hotels, travelling over 1800 miles, drinking copious amounts of tea that have been made using our car kettle, going wild swimming for the first time and we are taking you with us!

Yes, to add to the 12-14 hour days, the miles upon miles of hiking and the basic meals of oats and pot noodles, I will be writing every single evening. I’ve often wondered if this will put too much strain on the trip and whether I should wait until after. But truthfully, this is the chance to get every emotion and opinion down as it is on the day without inference of the delay of time.

If you’ve been following this blog so far you’ll know I’m either bordering on OCD or already a fully fledged member of the OCD Club of Organisation Addiction Awareness. So you may not be surprised that every blog going forward already has a template from which I will be able to work from. I also have a notepad that’ll be with me in the car and a printed itinerary I can edit along the way. I really want to learn as I go along on this trip, which means if something I have researched (albeit meticulously) does not work out, I want to find the answers and tell you everything. You may have gleaned by now that I’m passionate about travel beyond measure and if I can inspire (ick word) you to take the trip you’ve been putting on the back burner well that’s just a beautiful thing.

So today, we are driving up to Thirsk in order to break up the mammoth drive to Edinburgh from Essex, our very first and brief stop on Saturday morning. We’ve stayed in Thirsk a number of times now and it works perfectly for us as it’s small enough to not have any traffic and it has a big Tesco and petrol station. It has made the perfect overnight pitstop previously and there’s nothing better on your first night than familiarity. It also helps that our hotel has a restaurant, a budget one, so we don’t need to dig into our food reserves and can be at full energy for the longest start of the trip.

We have an exceedingly early morning tomorrow because we still have a 3 hour drive before our first stop, so we will be up before the sun and on our merry way.

As ever, my nerves about leaving home have started hitting me. This has been happening in its worst form for about three years now. It is hard to pinpoint the exact time it happened but I think it has a lot to do with the time we had to leave our home without a housesitter in 2019. Although we had various people coming in and out at least three times a day, I was incredibly worried about our dog and cats and don’t think I’ve ever really recovered from the guilt. Since then we have secured a housesitter every single time we have left for longer than two days. My dad will always say it’s not an issue but really his doing this enables us to really go out and live.

I literally can’t sit still the days leading up to when we travel and I dare say a lot of that is down to nerves. I love to come home to a clean and tidy home and before we leave I’ll often remember tiny little jobs I’ve been putting off , for instance I’ve been pottering in the garden getting it ready for autumn and reshuffling photos in the hallways.

This week that has been made a darn sight harder due to the flare up of my back condition. Oh yes, we have a 30 page itinerary for a 15 days trip and now is the time my back doesn’t want to play ball. I’ve tried movement, stretching, walking, sleeping, sitting and resting and so far sod all is working. It’s been over two weeks and I am slowly but very steadily getting pissed off. I am determined to keep to the plan for the trip as this has been so long in the planning and even longer in the dreaming.

Putting the final touches to everything this week has definitely kept my mind busy but I know I’ll be a blubbering mess as we leave in a short while. It’s ridiculous really for someone who lives and breathes to travel how much it makes me nervous. You’d think I’d be used to it by now. It catches me off guard and I feel my breath catch in my chest. It’s like a wave of worry washing over me. An anxiety avalanche if you will.

Mr W asks if we should cancel and I know that I can’t stay here forever, holding down the fort, protecting what I can’t while I’m away. Therefore it is off to the horizon we go, me and him, finding the next adventure and praying my anxieties get lost along the way. Maybe I’ll tie them to the rear bumper and give them a good chance of joining us, if they can hold on that is.

Right, here we go. Scotland 2022. Let’s see what you’re all about.

Miles: 232

Packing for a UK break

This really could be a boring blog to those that aren’t interested. However it is with all good intentions that I share all travel tips and ideas with you. So this piece will highlight some of the purchases I’ve made to make the unpredictable Scottish weather a bit easier to handle. 

Now, you may have worked out by now that I love to travel on a budget and I also like to keep costs down at home. Who isn’t right? The cost of actually living these days is insane. I realised today that buying all of our food in advance for this trip, totalling £237.52 (a mere £8.48 per person per day and that includes all meals, snacks and drinks) meant I avoided paying the escalated prices of everything. No I’m not psychic, just very lucky. I dread to think how much the actual total would have been if I had left it till now. 

Due to this very particular need to buy in advance and spread the cost, a few months ago I started looking into cheap clothing that would help keep us warm and dry. Ultimately I have been trying to avoid the big costs when buying the pricey 100% waterproof clothing in places like Go Outdoors. For the sake of two weeks in Scotland, I can’t justify buying expensive trousers and thick coats. It was time to get creative. 

It is going to be extremely unlikely that we will dodge the poorer weather that often presents itself in the highlands. Heading out into the inclement weather does not bother me. My main concern is keeping the wind and rain off our chests. I am susceptible to chest infections and Mr W has asthma. A cold and flu situation does not a vacation make!

I have bought us both some fleece hoods that have a big draping part of material that can be tucked into tops etc that will keep us warm. They also have drawstrings so we can tighten them around our chins etc. I think these will be especially effective against the winds when we hike.  They were barely £2.50 each and even if we don’t wear them out walking, I think they would be a good way to warm us up if we get caught in a downpour. 

I have bought two really thick and baggy beanie hats. I love a beanie hat and these are just such great quality. Woolly hats are my worst enemy and they end up sitting on my head rather than keeping it warm. A beanie always fits me better. I think it has something to do with my hair. It pushes a woolly hat up and off. When we bought our wetsuits I realised I could wear a hat while I had a paddle so my head would be happy too. Again, at less than £2.30 I am chuffed with my purchase.

For the warmer but windier days I have some knitted headbands that will hopefully keep my hair in place and my head semi warm. The kind of warmth you need with a bit of heat release. So not too hot. Not too cold. Something just right. And they are really cute too!

I also have a very indulgent fleece/faux fur lined infinity scarf with a knitted external layer, should my neck really need some heat. At £2.80, you really can’t fault it and I’m almost praying for colder weather. Almost. 

When it comes to clothing I think Mr W and I have nailed the whole hiking wardrobe so far. Layers in abundance and spare items in the bag you have on the day. Usually I have a vest top under a long sleeve top under a light jumper and then either a thin jacket or a thick fleece-y gilet I have had for years. I find the more layers you have the better and they are so easily interchanged should it rain or you get too warm. I am confident in the fact that my upper half is usually happy with intermittent weather conditions. 

For the women readers, I like to keep the bra situation real simple. Bralets, sports bras and such like. No underwires. Hiking and some scrambling up rocky hills needs ultimate comfort. And who on earth is going to see you anyway? Do we think the sheep and cows will mind?

Now, trousers, on my first two trips to Northumberland I wore jeans on all the hikes and noticed a lack of mobility that made my legs hurt after a while. On our last trip I dared to wear jogging bottoms and oh wow the range of motion I got back was just great. I bought two basic pairs for £20 and I use them at home to do some gardening and I’m not precious about them. They are ultimately utility trousers, If they get muddy that is fine. They aren’t necessarily my style, but again as long as the cows and field dwellers don’t mind, I’m happy enough. 

As the trousers aren’t very thick, I have bought some super thick knitted leggings that on the colder days I can wear underneath. I am obsessed! They are so soft and long. This means no cold ankles. They were £9 and I reckon worth every penny. They also come up over my stomach so will double up as a body warmer too!

Now I will have my very trusty walking boots with me as ever. They are padded and sturdy. I literally feel like a superhero in these things. They are so supportive that they give me so much confidence. My actual mind believes I can hike, climb and take on these huge personal challenges. I think clothing that gives you that freedom is a big deal. They were roughly £35 and are the budget brand Karrimor from Sports Direct, but I have never ever had an issue with them.

Along with these I will have my trusty pair of Nike trainers that I wear literally everywhere. These will be for wear on pavements etc, they won’t make much of an appearance but will give my feet a break from the heftier soles of the boots. I have also invested in a knock-off version of uggs. The short version. They were £7 or so from New look and these are purely to warm my feet up should we get caught in a downpour. If my feet get cold the rest of my body soon follows. These will be like my car slippers.  

Of course we have our wetsuits. Mentioned in a previous blog. An absolute bargain from Mountain Warehouse for £50! Other wetsuits were priced at nearly £400. I mean,  what! Getting these into the luggage is going to be a challenge as they’re rather big and thick, but I reckon a good roll up will do wonders. 

Now the above does not paint a very glamorous picture, but I’m leaving the glamour to the highlands. There are, however, two times I would like to be myself and dress nicely and they are meals to celebrate our wedding anniversary. 4 years! Yay us. I’ll be packing one or maybe two lightweight dresses, that need no ironing, in the bags so we can step out in some sort of refinery. Having these luxuries on our trip will be a complete indulgence in what will be a very basic but enjoyable trip. 

As we are going to be eating most of our meals in the car we have made a small investment in a kettle that can run off the cigarette lighter port. At £12 I am made up with the quality and it has opened up so many possibilities food and drink wise. Hot chocolates on a cold day. Pot noodles at lunchtime. And a thirst quenching cup of tea! But, what about milk? Ah you see, alongside the kettle I bought those little milks you usually find in hotels from Amazon. They are long life milks so need no refrigeration and the pots are recyclable so it’s a win-win situation! Can anything beat a cup of tea when you are tired?

To keep packing to a minimum we are aiming to pack enough clothes for a week. As it is a two weeks trip we have located washing machine facilities in one of our hotels. It means taking 2 hours out of our schedule to do the ‘chore’ but it means everything we need food wise will fit in the car. It will also give us a moment to sit down.

I was quite unsure of how much I would share on this piece today. Now I have reached the point again where I think I’ll discuss the rest in situ. This means I can update you how successful the purchases were and about other ones I’m yet to tell you about. I’m very aware that this approach will see us soggy in the odd downpour, we have some ponchos to keep off the majority of the rain and I hope the above really goes a long way to keep us warm. The proof will be in the pudding.

For now, we are in the final countdown towards our trip and the very real need to start packing looms. Eep!

Photo by Dave Watson
Please check out his work on https://www.instagram.com/davewatson_uk/ or at https://davewatson1980.picfair.com

Packing for a UK break…

I started the below piece of writing in mid June and it got left by the wayside as life brought up other things to talk about…

So we are heading off soon for a little adventure. A quick tour in the northern part of the UK. As of 2020, I’d probably only had one big trip in England itself and that was Cornwall. Most summer holidays were spent in Norfolk as a child but other than that I have been incredibly blessed to travel internationally. Click, book, fly. Easy peasey. 

One of the easiest things when travelling internationally is packing. Especially if you’re heading somewhere warm and poolside! Lots of summer tops, shorts, dresses and sandals! The bulk of the luggage is lotions, potions and towels. Even if you are heading for a city break, it’s mostly jeans, a few tops, a jacket and maybe an outfit for a fancy meal. 

But how do we pack for a UK break? Well, not very easily at all! There’s space in a car to consider and the weather is very unpredictable! So layers are essential but how do you do that when your bag needs to be a certain size?

There’s a high chance you’ll get stuck in a rain shower and therefore need to dry said clothes while having others on standby. It is the UK climate afterall…

And there we have it, a short, unfinished piece about packing. As you may have worked out, I was going to talk about the necessities for a hiking trip in Northumberland. Hardly thrilling stuff however I have seen so many people ask others on social media lately about what to pack for a UK break that I thought why not share with you what we’ll be packing for our two week trip in Scotland. As we will basically be living out of a car for two weeks, stopping only to eat on the roadside and sleep in a cheap bed for the night, I thought I’d give you all the tips and tricks we’ve come up with so far to make it as smooth a process as possible. 

I hate to do this but, I will continue this piece tomorrow in full detail. Today has been a day fraught with emotions and I know I need to curl up with a book, fall asleep with Mr W and start afresh with a rested mind. 

Steps that count

44,162 steps – Northumberland – 3.5 days

14,878 steps – Greenwich – 1 day

Unknown steps – Tunisia – 1 week

Before the pandemic and certainly before Mr W, holidays were spent either walking around New York, pacing out the heavily padded itinerary or on a sunlounger on the beach. It was either ALL the walking possible or none at all. 

Since Mr W and I have travelled together there have been the odd holidays that we’ve sat down, maybe 2 in 9 years, and I couldn’t say for sure that that is. It seems we have an inability to sit still. 

Our first trip together was in October 2013. Tunisia was not a place that I’d ever thought to travel to but was cheap enough and still warm enough that late in the year that it ticked enough boxes for a short week away. The ticked boxes from the travel agent were proven correct with hot sunny days followed by balmy nights. I was looking forward to sitting by the pool with a plus one for the first time in my life. And I’ll say it, I wanted to show our relationship off to the world. I was happy and wanted to shout it from the rooftops. We spent hours in the pool, swimming, playing and laughing. One lady swam past us sighing, saying ‘It’s so nice to see a couple having fun’. I practically skipped back to the lounger. 

I foresaw the rest of our days in Tunisia playing out similarly. Sun, lounger, pool, book, naps and love. On maybe the 3rd day, we dragged ourselves out of bed quite late and made our way down to the secluded pool where it seemed only adults ventured. Book and bag in hand, I layed down in the dappled shade and set myself up for a day of warm breezes and the latest storyline of my new book. In my peripheral vision, I could see Mr W, he wasn’t lying down or grabbing his book. He was sitting as you would do while you wait for a bus. I asked him what was up. He said ‘Do you want to go and explore the local area?’. With all my being I wanted to scream, NO! I’ve literally just sat down! And yet we did go out, we walked to the local market. The next day we took a train to the next town along. The day after we took a little tourist road train to another town. It wasn’t until we were reaching the end of the week when we finally ventured onto the beach and I again attempted to surf the beach sofa. Soon his static body entered my peripheral vision and his boredom and utter dislike of being there had us moving somewhere else. 

Do I think that’s where the busy holidays started? No. 

Do I think that’s where the lazy holidays ended? Quite possibly. 

We’ve spent time with family in Majorcan villas but did we sit still for longer than half a day? Also no. 

When the pandemic hit and we moved our Italy trip to the autumn from spring, we felt that we were insanely lucky to even travel. The week travelling from Florence to Venice without too much interruption from the covid laws felt like the deepest breath we had taken in 6 months. We wanted to make every step count. Every single minute of those six days felt magical. Every plan fell into place. Every smile fell naturally onto our lips. Regardless of how busy we were, there was no moaning about tired feet, only an appreciation for the freedom to travel. We didn’t want to waste a single second. 

Now, almost two years later, we have spent three long weekends hiking and pushing ourselves past our once thought of limits. The trips have been eye-opening in so many ways and we have such a new passion for countryside vacations and our limits will be pushed furthermore when we go to Scotland and try wild swimming and even longer hikes. 

When I used to pound the sidewalks of New York from 8am to 8pm I wouldn’t stop to think how many miles I had walked. To be fair, I didn’t have the technology to count the mileage/steps. I can only hazard a guess that I walked upwards of 9 miles a day. So why am I now seeing 5 miles a day as such a big deal? Maybe because it’s brought to my attention by watches and apps that notify you before you ask them to. Or because I still find it amusing that some place, like Northumberland, I once saw as inferior to New York, is now on the same level when it comes to awe-inspiring. I never would have guessed that I would choose to walk and hike the UK with as much gusto as I did exploring abroad. Times have certainly changed!

We have been talking recently, Mr W and I, about taking a vacation somewhere warm, with a pool. A villa break for just us. It has come to our attention that we need some time to stop. We need to jump in the pool and only emerge from it because of pruney fingertips. We need to start and finish the book we haven’t got time for at home. The afternoon naps. The late mornings. The step count being in the hundreds rather than the thousands. 

So far, we haven’t had the luck of booking the trip. However, even though we now see the value of exploring and travelling more than ever and our new found appreciation for hiking is pushing us beyond boundaries we didn’t know existed, we have come to a bigger realisation. 

It is to stop. Even though it is often said that every step we take when travelling is precious, I think it may be the steps we don’t take that can be just as important. When we start to travel again in the opening world, we are pushed by the memory of being locked away in our homes to go further than ever before and take on personal challenges that we’ve always avoided. 

By doing this, we are pushing ourselves so hard all the time that we will forget what was good about being locked away in the first place. The simplicities of a good lunch in the sunshine. A night watching the stars with a cup of tea. Drawing a blanket up under your chin for an early night’s sleep. A walk in the country to give your lungs a fresh breath. 

These steps count too. Whether they are counted by your watch or listed on an app. 

These are the non-steps that keep you still long enough to save your tired soles for their next big leap into the unknown. 

Step one. Stay still.