The plague of high internet speed is how far we’ve come to travel the world while on the comfort of our own sofas. We find the top 10 places to see when we travel to a city somewhere on this planet and end up down a wormhole filled with pictures and reviews. Unknowingly we see everything about the place we are visiting before we even set foot there.
Occasionally it means that when our very real foot sets foot in the very real site we are visiting we are underwhelmed or just confirming what the picture has already shown us. It is definitely great for those with anxiety that need to know every step of their day and google maps is great for that. But it can take away those awesome moments of discovery.
This was not one of those times, this was a time on an itinerary where we were travelling from place A to B and we found ourselves saying ‘why not’ to a stop off in between. It wasn’t high on our list of places to see on the Isle of Skye and that may come down to the descriptions online not doing it justice. We had never heard of it either. We are under no illusion that just because we haven’t heard of somewhere doesn’t mean it’s not worth visiting. If anything this little beauty has taught us that it pays to visit the unheard of sites.
To try and do this highlight is tricky. The facts are: the Quiraing is a space on the Isle of Skye where there are a series of landslips. The Quiraing section is the one which still moves yearly. Awesome? I’m just not sure.
In person, it is a network of sloping grass kissed mountains with the odd jagged statue of rock reaching into the sky. The wind literally whips around your body, slaps you in the face and laughs at your thermal wear. There are views across to the mainland of Scotland and on occasion the sun will glint on the Lochs of Hasco and Fada.
This place quite frankly is indescribable. And that’s okay. For the first time, I’m imploring you to witness it for yourself to understand. Maybe you’ll do a better job of speaking the words that this place inspires in us.
And maybe just maybe, you’ll see a fighter plane on a training flight whip past you too.
Let’s crack on shall we, this is the itinerary for Day 10 on our NC500 tour of Scotland.
Our day changed dramatically due to the weather. So I’m going to give you our planned itinerary and you’ll be able to gain all information and thoughts about what we actually experienced here and on my summary of the day in the blogs linked below. Up until we arrived in Skye we had been very smug about how kind the weather had been to us and then… well, the waterfalls we had seen so far seemed to open above us.
Today’s plans are not for the faint hearted. It is a very packed and strenuous day with two big hikes in it. This may seem too much but it will open up all of Skye to you. The big attractions are all there for you to see and love. Enjoy!
A little advice on this one. You will want to check your sunrise/set times on this one. The activities at the beginning and end rely on seeing the sun on the horizon. I think it would create the most amazing views.
Start your morning in the dark and drive up to the Old Man of Storr. This is a hike we unluckily didn’t venture on. We sat in the car park for a long time determining whether we should attempt it as the day’s hours ticked on. We decided it wasn’t the timing we had planned and therefore left it to our return trip. I advise making this your first point of call and parking up before sunrise to guarantee a space in the very busy car park and to also see some of the most spectacular views over the Applecross Peninsula on the mainland when the sun makes its appearance. The car park charges £2 for 2 hours and there are toilets on site. Below are some pretty clear instructions to help you make this walk safely and without too much confusion. Snacks will be needed I am sure.
‘The path starts through the gate near the back of the car park.The wide path winds uphill through an area intended to regenerate with native woodland. Keep ahead/slightly right when the path forks although it doesn’t really matter as both join up later. The path passes through two gates to eventually reach the open moor with the spectacular cliffs of the Storr up ahead. The Old Man can be difficult to pick out from the cliffs behind from this point. Continue up the wide footpath. As more height is gained, look out for a clear path branching left; take this turning. The path contours a little before ascending, swinging right to climb up to the left of the Old Man. The next section of walk has some danger from rockfall – it should certainly be avoided after heavy rains. Follow a path that descends to pass around the back of the Old Man; the path is clear but crosses a short section of fallen rocks. This area – with towering cliffs and pinnacles all around – is known as the Sanctuary. Beyond the Old Man stands the Needle Rock – also known as the Cathedral, which has a window right through it near the top. Continue towards this, but turn right before reaching it to begin the descent. There are several variant paths at first but all soon join as the descent continues, passing well below the east side of the Old Man. Once back on the main path, follow it down to eventually retrace your steps back onto the made path through the felled area. Further down, you can turn right at the fork to follow an alternative, equally well made path for the descent section. This weaves about and passes a small lochan before rejoining the outward route. Continue down to return to the car park.’
Sounds impressive right? Even from the car park the view of the Old Man of Storr is impressive and should you get to experience this walk please let me know how it is. Please?
Make sure you have a big drink to replace all that expended energy.
The next stop is really easy so don’t worry about those achy legs. The car park is free (as of this blog) and it’s quite literally a minute’s walk away from the cliff’s edge. As mentioned in the previous days, itinerary sites on Isle of Skye are considerably busier than the mainland and you may therefore have a long wait for an up close photo opportunity. Be patient, it is absolutely worth it!
Unfortunately we didn’t go on the next visit. It is supposed to be great with actual dinosaur prints that aren’t roped off so you can get up close and personal. I know you are down at the water’s edge so take waterproof clothing and enjoy! Don’t linger too long, you have lots more to see and the next stop is the busiest point on today’s itinerary.
The Quiraing viewpoint is absolutely breathtaking. The smallest amount you’ll pay at the car park is £3 but you do get 3 hours. The car park is bigger than most on the island and although busy you won’t find yourself waiting long for a space to become vacant. On site there is a food van selling hot dishes to warm you up after the strong winds found here. You can spend anywhere between 20 minutes to 2 hours here. There is a hike which looked absolutely incredible from the viewpoint and if the weather had been kinder we would have definitely given it a go. Take note of the signposted areas to prevent you from quite literally slipping down to meet the land below. Wrap up warm!
Next, take the very scenic drive to Rha waterfall. You will find the road here very steep in places and much of it is single track so act as the locals do and be kind and courteous. It becomes second nature after travelling so much of the NC500 to accept the to and fro of the single track road however due to the influx of day tourists you may find some impatience forming. Remind yourself it is the journey not the destination and you’ll be fine.
I’ve given you two sets of details (both What3Words) to find Rha waterfall. One for the parking, which is free, and one for the gate which opens onto the short walk to the falls. This is a very short but rewarding walk. It is much less busy than other sites on the island and you’ll find yourself lucky to find some peace and quiet in this beautiful spot.
We found the next spot quite difficult to find and therefore I’ve given you another set of What3Words instructions. In most cases you will be given a postcode to find sites in Scotland. This covers a vast amount of space and with very little SatNav signal and/or phone signal it can become quite difficult to find places. I advise downloading the W3W app and using it offline as much as possible. The car park at the Fairy Glen in Uig is brand new and charges £2 for 2 hours. Which I think is a generous amount of time for this site. It is fairly straightforward walking around the base of these mounds. Take care if you wish to take a birds eye view, rain causes very slippery conditions and there are some fairly steep sections. As we arrived in the rain I know we didn’t fully appreciate this site which is a damn shame.
Now, the next and last stop of the day is a biggie. It’s one of the big reasons we will return to the Isle of Skye as we also missed this walk due to the weather. Neist Point Lighthouse is a 2 hour hike to the coastal area of northern Skye. There have been sightings of whales from here and in my opinion as a sunset chaser, it will be a wonderful end to a full but exceptional day. As we didn’t accomplish this walk I have given you the information below for the walk. I would like to think that a well trodden path would be easy to see but you never know!
‘Begin by following the path through the gate, which if locked can be easily walked round. Almost immediately turn left on the path, which then swings right to ease the descent to the headland far below. There is a metal handrail for most of the descent. Continue along the now level path. It is possible to detour to the right to visit the edge of the cliffs, overlooking the great prow of An t-Aigeach, the dramatic upstanding crag half way out on the headland. To the left are great views to the impressive cliffs of Waterstein Head and the Hoe, the second highest on Skye. At the highest point of the constructed path, a grassy path heads off to the right – this is an optional detour to the top of An t-Aigeach. If you decide to visit the top, take great care near the cliff edge, and retrace your steps back to the main path. As the corner is rounded the lighthouse comes into view for the first time. Continue along the path towards the lighthouse and the former keepers’ cottages. From the path junction, you can turn left along a made path to reach the crane and crane. It is also worth detouring across rougher pathless ground beyond the lighthouse complex to reach the furthest point. The return route is back the same way. It is worth detouring to the left from the path before it heads round An t-Aigeach to visit the cliff edge; from here you can watch seabirds in season but take care as the edge is, of course, unprotected.’
And there you have it. The top sites of the Isle of Skye in one day. I hope it serves you well. You deserve a big dinner and drink to toast the day.
Staying on the Isle of Skye means you need to just return to your accommodation and relax. Tomorrow we return to the mainland. Our journey draws to its conclusion. But for now, chill.
Miles: 131. Wildlife: an otter. Camper Vans: 50+. Steps: 9543
Cost of pre-bought food: £3.70 approximately Extra costs: £18 for dinner and £8 for lunch
As I changed my walking boots for something less bulky and smelly tonight I noticed a stone lodged in the tread. As I went to remove it, I paused, why remove it? Let it stay there as a reminder of this trip. This marvelous, close to ending, trip.
I’m happy to say the itinerary changed a lot today. We started the day four hours later than planned after staying in bed to avoid the rain. We did the itinerary in reverse and cut some stops out due to time and weather restraints. The biggest loss was the walk up the Old Man of Storr. It was gutting but sometimes that’s what happens. You can’t control the weather but you can control how you react to it. We already know we’ll be returning here and have it in mind for then.
So, what did we do today?
Well, avoiding the rain didn’t exactly go to plan. But let’s start at the beginning.
We drove the 90 minutes to the Fairy Glen in Uig, although it took quite a lot longer due to trying to find a deli or cafe for a snack. There is certainly slim pickings on the island and 50% of the places we found were closed for the rest of the year. We eventually found a shop and praised it for having the typical road snacks everyone requires.
Onwards! We made it to the Fairy Glen at midday and were surprised to see how busy the car park was. The Isle of Skye is definitely busier than any other place we have stopped on this tour. We spoke to our accommodation host this evening and he said most tourists go to Edinburgh, Loch Ness and Skye. If they do it all at once or over time I’m not sure but it certainly makes sense with the changes we have seen. For instance the car parks are mostly paved, taken care of and are not free. This was not the case on the mainland. We’ve spent more here on parking than the entire trip so far. It’s mad.
Anyway, we dressed to protect us against the strings winds sweeping the land and started our walk. As we walked up one hill to look down into the glen, you guessed it, the rain came. Prepared we continued on our way until the rain dropped off my nose. Sheltering under trees we waited a while until we called time on it. Disappointed at being thwarted again we head back to the car. While drying off, blue skies soared over us and invited us back to the glen.
The glen itself is exceptionally strange and only from a great height can you really appreciate the landscape. The lumps and bumps that protrude from the earth are fascinating. As the weather started to decline and the routes up into the mounds were really slippery we decided to send up the drone and ‘Marv’ caught a few pictures before the rain returned. Satisfied that we had given it another try we returned to the car once more.
Ten minutes later we parked up for another walk. Rha waterfall is absolutely awe-inspiring. It is really easy to find. A very short walk and just great. It hides behind some cottages and provides such a loud roar that it prevents you from worrying and thinking about life. I should think that if I were to live near a waterfall it would be my escape. Just somewhere to sit and let go of all my anxieties. The noise of the water would drown them out. Perfection.
Happy that the weather had improved and that the walk was short we drove to the next stop. Another car park, another charge, but wow the Quiraing viewing point is seriously amazing. You can literally see where the land has slipped. It’s really difficult to describe. But there are monoliths of rock and earth jutting out at all angles and shapes.
The grass caresses every one of the waves of land and it is truly indescribable. It is also one of the windiest places I have ever been. I had to stand behind Mr W twice just to hide from the onslaught and compose myself. Hands red raw and hoods soggy we clicked away with our cameras and stood in quiet awe. I think when we come back it would be a stop to return to. There is a 3-4 hour hike towards the rocks called The Prison and The Needle. They, like the Old Man of Storr, look absolutely iconic and what is life but to want to be near an icon and gaze upon it at one’s leisure.
When Mr W’s hands regained their feeling we made the next very short drive to Mealt Falls. The car park is free! Wahey! After missing the view of Talisker waterfall crashing down the cliffs yesterday due to the visibility I am ecstatic to say that this cliff dropping waterfall was seen in all its splendor. It’s spray was sent our way via the wind and I did not mind one bit! The crashing water on the rocks from the sea met the water from the falls and it just felt magical. Another scene from a movie. I’m sure I’ll remember what movie at some point but maybe you will know where you have seen something similar!
With a pat on the back for making it to 80% of our visits today, we treated ourselves to our second visit to Portree for their tasty chips and watched love on the harbour as we ate. There was no seal bobbing about today but just watching the water was enough for us. The waters here are tidal but as the wind blew against the surface different shapes appeared and made for great entertaining. The fishing boats all swayed in the moving waters and cormorants dived for their next meal. Someone beyond our line of sight was playing the bagpipes and the with the seagulls calling it made for a very surreal moment. I’m kind of in love with the whole picture.
As we drove back to our accommodation we stopped numerous times to take photos of the sun changing the colours of the mountains, lochs and clouds. Pink hues were replaced with milky blues and mountains became silhouettes against the neighbours. Our journey was extended time after time with every click of the camera. We spoke about how much this trip had meant to both of us. We have two days left in Scotland before our trip descends into England. With everything that has happened with travel due to covid I find myself wondering if we ever would have found our passion for hiking and rural retreats on our own. It has changed so much about our lives for the better.
Stopping again for more photos, I glanced down at the water searching for those yearned for fins and I saw movement in the water. It was too close to shore to be anything big. Lifting my binoculars I watched as a slinky body climbed out and up some rocks. An otter. The first I’ve ever seen in the wild. It’s as if it knew I needed a pick-me-up after my sadness about leaving had left me quiet.
And then he disappeared. Leaving me with my new smile and a beautiful memory.
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