Tag: Northumberland

Steps that count

44,162 steps – Northumberland – 3.5 days

14,878 steps – Greenwich – 1 day

Unknown steps – Tunisia – 1 week

Before the pandemic and certainly before Mr W, holidays were spent either walking around New York, pacing out the heavily padded itinerary or on a sunlounger on the beach. It was either ALL the walking possible or none at all. 

Since Mr W and I have travelled together there have been the odd holidays that we’ve sat down, maybe 2 in 9 years, and I couldn’t say for sure that that is. It seems we have an inability to sit still. 

Our first trip together was in October 2013. Tunisia was not a place that I’d ever thought to travel to but was cheap enough and still warm enough that late in the year that it ticked enough boxes for a short week away. The ticked boxes from the travel agent were proven correct with hot sunny days followed by balmy nights. I was looking forward to sitting by the pool with a plus one for the first time in my life. And I’ll say it, I wanted to show our relationship off to the world. I was happy and wanted to shout it from the rooftops. We spent hours in the pool, swimming, playing and laughing. One lady swam past us sighing, saying ‘It’s so nice to see a couple having fun’. I practically skipped back to the lounger. 

I foresaw the rest of our days in Tunisia playing out similarly. Sun, lounger, pool, book, naps and love. On maybe the 3rd day, we dragged ourselves out of bed quite late and made our way down to the secluded pool where it seemed only adults ventured. Book and bag in hand, I layed down in the dappled shade and set myself up for a day of warm breezes and the latest storyline of my new book. In my peripheral vision, I could see Mr W, he wasn’t lying down or grabbing his book. He was sitting as you would do while you wait for a bus. I asked him what was up. He said ‘Do you want to go and explore the local area?’. With all my being I wanted to scream, NO! I’ve literally just sat down! And yet we did go out, we walked to the local market. The next day we took a train to the next town along. The day after we took a little tourist road train to another town. It wasn’t until we were reaching the end of the week when we finally ventured onto the beach and I again attempted to surf the beach sofa. Soon his static body entered my peripheral vision and his boredom and utter dislike of being there had us moving somewhere else. 

Do I think that’s where the busy holidays started? No. 

Do I think that’s where the lazy holidays ended? Quite possibly. 

We’ve spent time with family in Majorcan villas but did we sit still for longer than half a day? Also no. 

When the pandemic hit and we moved our Italy trip to the autumn from spring, we felt that we were insanely lucky to even travel. The week travelling from Florence to Venice without too much interruption from the covid laws felt like the deepest breath we had taken in 6 months. We wanted to make every step count. Every single minute of those six days felt magical. Every plan fell into place. Every smile fell naturally onto our lips. Regardless of how busy we were, there was no moaning about tired feet, only an appreciation for the freedom to travel. We didn’t want to waste a single second. 

Now, almost two years later, we have spent three long weekends hiking and pushing ourselves past our once thought of limits. The trips have been eye-opening in so many ways and we have such a new passion for countryside vacations and our limits will be pushed furthermore when we go to Scotland and try wild swimming and even longer hikes. 

When I used to pound the sidewalks of New York from 8am to 8pm I wouldn’t stop to think how many miles I had walked. To be fair, I didn’t have the technology to count the mileage/steps. I can only hazard a guess that I walked upwards of 9 miles a day. So why am I now seeing 5 miles a day as such a big deal? Maybe because it’s brought to my attention by watches and apps that notify you before you ask them to. Or because I still find it amusing that some place, like Northumberland, I once saw as inferior to New York, is now on the same level when it comes to awe-inspiring. I never would have guessed that I would choose to walk and hike the UK with as much gusto as I did exploring abroad. Times have certainly changed!

We have been talking recently, Mr W and I, about taking a vacation somewhere warm, with a pool. A villa break for just us. It has come to our attention that we need some time to stop. We need to jump in the pool and only emerge from it because of pruney fingertips. We need to start and finish the book we haven’t got time for at home. The afternoon naps. The late mornings. The step count being in the hundreds rather than the thousands. 

So far, we haven’t had the luck of booking the trip. However, even though we now see the value of exploring and travelling more than ever and our new found appreciation for hiking is pushing us beyond boundaries we didn’t know existed, we have come to a bigger realisation. 

It is to stop. Even though it is often said that every step we take when travelling is precious, I think it may be the steps we don’t take that can be just as important. When we start to travel again in the opening world, we are pushed by the memory of being locked away in our homes to go further than ever before and take on personal challenges that we’ve always avoided. 

By doing this, we are pushing ourselves so hard all the time that we will forget what was good about being locked away in the first place. The simplicities of a good lunch in the sunshine. A night watching the stars with a cup of tea. Drawing a blanket up under your chin for an early night’s sleep. A walk in the country to give your lungs a fresh breath. 

These steps count too. Whether they are counted by your watch or listed on an app. 

These are the non-steps that keep you still long enough to save your tired soles for their next big leap into the unknown. 

Step one. Stay still. 

Northumberland in 4 days

So, as you may have seen, we’ve been in Northumberland on a little holiday recently and I thought I’d share my initial itinerary with you. So that’s below, in its most basic forms…

After the first itinerary I’m going to tell you all about the changes I would make and then create a brand new itinerary for you to follow should you ever want to visit one of the Uk’s most magical areas!

.

.

.

Edits:

DAY ONE.

Arriving into Alnwick as early as possible would be great for the sake of seeing the gardens to their full extent. The poison garden is absolutely awesome and even though I’m not a tour type of person, it is a must as there are government regulations concerning the Class A, B and C drug plants they have on site. The central fountain and serpentine interactive fountains are just so much fun. The ornamental garden at the top of the site is just absolutely stunning, I recommend taking a book and a sandwich so after you wander you can find a bench and enjoy the tranquil sounds of the streams of water bubbling over their pebbly paths. There are some huge shaded tunnels which are perfect to hide away from the midday sun and yet enjoy the views over the gardens. If you choose to go to the gardens I think you should give a good four to five hours to immerse yourself completely. When buying a ticket for the gardens you can use the Pavilion restaurant which has a beautiful outdoor seating area. The food and drink on offer is tasty enough but light, so as we planned to have dinner here, I now know this is not possible. Also, if you choose to visit Alnwick Castle and not the gardens you cannot go into the Pavilion restaurant, however The Bakery located just outside the entrance to the Alnwick Gardens serves the same food. So don’t despair too much! Should you choose to go into the Castle I believe you only need two or so hours. Which means you can start your day later or spend more time in the town!

After leaving your entrance of choice, I recommend a visit to Barter books, if you choose to use the car park I mention, it’s not too far a walk. The car park closes for new cars at 4/5pm, but they leave the exit open so you can park all day without a worry. It is £3 for the whole day which I think is really reasonable.

Barter books is a used book shop housed in an old train station and it is phenomenal! Nothing about the actual building has changed and everything feels so traditional and unchanged, mainly because it is!

There is a tearoom in the old waiting room, and even on our second visit to this place we have missed its opening hours. So, another itinerary edit is to make sure you get there before it’s 6pm closing time! After this you have an hour to look around the building and make sure to look UP in the second room as you enter. It is an absolutely stunning building and I wouldn’t hesitate to go back when in the area! 

DAY TWO

Honestly, when I say have a big breakfast I mean it. The weather changes rapidly in Northumberland and if it’s raining your body is going to need the pep up to keep you moving. IF it’s sunny, you are going to sweat! So good food and slot of fluids! We take our metal drinks bottles or a 2L reusable bottle on our trips and refill them regularly from a 5 litre bottle we keep in the car. Keep hydrated!

We stay in Bellingham when we are in the National Park, it works nicely with visiting Kielder, accessing the petrol station in the village and is only 25 minutes from the A1. There are lots of areas to stay in the National Park and each have their own merits. Most will be self catering so check out the locations for shops for supplies. On this trip we had a lodge in Bellingham and took all of our own food as the hotel shop nearby is a Co-op and they can be pricey at the best of times.

To get the best out of the Hareshaw Linn walk, start early to avoid the majority of all the visitors. Take a long pause at the end of the trail before making your return. There is a cave to sit in, stop and just listen to the waterfall. We allowed 4 hours for this walk, but I’d say it’s easy enough to finish with lots of breaks in 3 hours. These breaks are for the amazing scenes on each of the 6 bridges and the carefully selected locations for the benches. Make sure to keep an eye out for the elusive red squirrel. On both of our visits to this spot we have spotted squirrels and this time even saw a full size deer! Take your time and enjoy!

After your walk, take a short drive down to the amazing Tea on the Train experience to enjoy the home-made sandwiches, cakes and treas on offer. You will not regret it!

Now here is where things got extremely tight on time. The Kielder reservoir is enormous! and the Lakeside way walk is 26 miles long. With multiple art installations it is hard to just pick one. This was our second attempt to walk to the Silvalis Capitalis site and we were thwarted again. In order to do most of the walks in Kielder you need to buy a £5 car park ticket. The walks are long, rewarding but long! So bare this in mind. Buying a £5 all day parking ticket means you can use any of the Kielder car parks so moving around is easier for you should you want to have little wanders rather than do huge hikes.

Here I have changed the afternoon to include a smaller walk along the bottom of the Kielder reservoir. This will take in the Mirage deck installation, the minigolf at the Waterside Visitor Centre and a short 20 minute walk to Freya’s Hut. Give your 4 hours. It is a beautiful area. Keep a look out for wildlife. We saw chaffinches, sparrows and rabbits!

DAY THREE

This is a big choice of options. Option A will be a huge undertaking. 20 miles is a big deal and should not be taken lightly. You will need plenty of water, food, layers of clothing and perseverance. You’ll see slot of the Kielder installations and you will be tired! We will be undertaking this on our next visit and I will link my story back to this blog when we do!

Option B is going to be a lot easier and so much less daunting. The Minotaur maze is found at the Kielder Castle visitor centre. Something fun to get you alive and kicking for the day. There is a toilet block on site.

From here you can join the Forest Drive toll road. The toll is £3 and gives you permission to drive the 12 mile road that takes you through a dense working forest. Prepare to reach the 1500 metres at its highest point and make sure you stop at ‘The Nick’ to admire the views and the wind chill!

This is a simple day, but with so many pleasures. Visit Hindhope Linn, before exiting the toll road and make the very short 15 minute detour up to the Scottish border. To say you popped over to Scotland for an hour is something not many people can say. 15 minutes from the border is Jedburgh which gives you the perfect chance to stretch your legs before heading back to Northumberland. Use my tips for the most beautiful drive and scenic views. With a much smaller and intimate border crossing you’ll feel like you are sneaking back into England!

DAY FOUR

This really all depends on where you are driving home to. We live in Essex and found it to be a nice plan to break up the day. I’ve not changed any of this day as it worked out nicely. Dress up warm for Sycamore Gap as you will be battered by the elements! This walk is less about staircases and more about shingle slopes. It is strenuous but one of the more milder walks in the National Park. A fairly moderate stroll will have you complete the journey from the car park in 40-50 minutes.

Now check out the itinerary below for your final plan!

.

Frame of mind

Over dinner, I told Mr W how I had entered a competition to win £300,000. And as you can probably guess, the talk soon turned into what we would do with the money should we win. 

Him: We’d buy that van we want and do it up.

Me: The first thing I’d do is book an all inclusive holiday. Somewhere hot, with a pool and a beach. 

How different are those answers? Seriously. And yet my answer changes from day to day where Mr W’s doesn’t. The last year and a half has changed so much in the terms of us travelling that it’s hard to think of how to revert back. Travel has become so much about being budget conscious, thinking sustainably and staying in the UK. It’s definitely a question nowadays as to whether we could sit by a pool and stay still. 

On our first holiday together we booked the very typical beach/pool/all inclusive deal. Having become accustomed to those types of trips during my childhood I was looking forward to leaving my brain at the office and watching my freckles connect. Even in October the heat in Tunisia was perfect and I looked forward to the sunlit days and warm evenings. Mr W had other ideas. He did not do well at sitting still. In fact on one of the few days we did sit poolside I could feel his eyes bore into me from his lounger. We soon jumped on a train to the next town to explore. I could see future trips being a wee bit tricky. I had found a balance between beach holidays where I did nothing and city breaks where I left no stone unturned. But there we were on a beach holiday in completely different frames of mind. 

We have since been to many beautiful places around the world. Barcelona, it rained for a whole week. New York at Christmas. The Maldives for our honeymoon. Iceland. Paris. Italy. The list goes on. However, other than an afternoon on the beach in Barcelona, we are yet to sit still. The only reason we actually sat still on that occasion was due to the sun showing its face after 6 days of rain. I believe we needed drying off. 

In no way am I complaining, our trips have been magical and whetted our appetites to further explore the countries of this world. Our next trip is the absolute definition of exploration. 15 jam packed days of adventure travel and I am totally here for it. I think in a way covid has made us push even harder to squeeze the minutes out of the hours of the days when we are out and about. It’s been 2.5 years of living that way and where I have loved it, I’m starting to miss the feeling of nothing. Of just being in a place. And I believe it’s to do with my frame of mind. 

I do not understand how the heat in the UK feels so different to the heat abroad. People say the houses are built differently. Okay, so why when I sit outside do I feel like I might burst into flames? When abroad it barely affects me. I can also proudly say that having finally experienced our teeny pool that it did help but why then does walking around Barcelona or Egypt and experiencing the heat full on, and without said help from dunking myself in water, not present the same problems as being here? So just what is it?  

As a result of these thoughts, I have spent my days daydreaming of the lazy holidays once more. And I think it goes deeper than just the difference in temperate climates. It’s being comfortable enough mentally to be able to stop. On our recent trip to Northumberland I pondered this while I sat in a cave next to a waterfall. We had lunch reservations at 2pm and yet had over two hours until then. The walk to the car from where we were would only take an hour and I sat in quiet thought trying to think of something to fill the time. It was only when I realised that having free time didn’t necessarily mean it had to be filled that I granted myself the permission to park my arse and be still. And so for an hour, we sat in the cave, with our snacks and watched the water cascade into the pool below. In that hour many other hikers arrived, most with dogs. The dogs practically leapt from the rocky ledge into the water and entertained all that had stopped. 

It reminded me of our walk to Sycamore Gap and how for me time stood still. It is unlike the walks you’ll find to the waterfalls of Hindhope and Hareshaw Linn. They are hidden amongst the trees and rolling hills of the Northumbrian landscape. The walk to Sycamore Gap is up and over the rolling hills. The landscape is all shingle, coarse grass and barren. You pass through a few gates where old walls break up your journey but ultimately it is unchallenging. It is only when you arrive at the most famous tree in the UK that you realise this walk wasn’t about the journey. It is about the destination. So many times do you hear in life that the journey is as important as the destination and in some cases the journey becomes more important altogether. Essentially the journey is longer than the time we spend at the destination and should therefore be enjoyed in order to feel more fulfilling. The tree sits upon Hadrian’s wall and is an iconic image known to everyone. Without even knowing its name or location, show the person next to you the image at the top of this blog and I guarantee nine out of ten people will recognise it. 

Upon our arrival to the tree, we waited patiently for our chance to photograph it without the intrusion of other hikers. Photos taken, I took a moment to climb the hill directly opposite the tree and sat for a while. The wind whistled in my ears and violently forced my hair to take flight. Above me the clouds threatened rain. Below me on the sides of the hill purple heather revealed its colour to roaming eyes. The tree was static in response to the wind. As the light from the cloud dotted sky changed the backdrop of the scene each moment felt like a picture perfect postcard. 

It was just me, sitting, watching and forgetting time. This is what I miss. The ability to take everything in and appreciate it without rushing off to the next thing to see. Covid has changed so much for this world. It has changed the world en masse and singularly. I’d like to think that at some point we will find a balance between sitting and running. Until then I will remember how blessed we are to be free enough to roam the world. 

Feel the fear

I GOT IN THE POOL!

It was cloudy and windy but I got in the pool! I managed 40 minutes before I got bored and got out. I am well chuffed! The sun came out for about 5 minutes but it felt so great to cool down. I even laid down. The pool is just big enough for me to lie down diagonally. My body cooled right down and I didn’t feel the heat of the day for several hours. So that has made my week! Tomorrow we are going to be hunting for the puncture, so let’s hope we find it.

Mr W and I have spent the last two nights catching up on some of our Youtube favourites. We literally watch one profile and are addicted. I’m popping the link below to their profile, but I’m also adding the link to their vlog of when they visited the Morocco Animal Aid shelter. It’s a difficult watch if you are an animal lover and yet lovely at the same time. By using their platform Craig and Amiee raised EUR8000 in a week for the shelter and I think that is just phenomenal! And Aimee is right, volunteering really makes a difference. It might not change the world, but you could change the world for another being on this planet and I think that is a win-win situation. 

https://www.youtube.com/c/kingingit365

Craig and Aimee travel the world and basically vlog about it so we at home can sit in quiet jealousy. They show the gritty, glamorous and funny sides of travel and watching them always puts a smile on my face. 

Something Aimee said on the vlog we watched tonight was, ‘Feel the fear and do it anyway.’ Which made me realise that the less time I spend planning for the NC500 the more time fear has to creep into my mind. And the fear is getting bigger as the planning comes to a very close end. My anxiety over the big trip is definitely creeping in. There are a few challenges I have set myself, and Mr W, that I am cacking my pants over.

So, I thought I’d share them with you! It’s about time you get to hear about some of the trip. Not a lot, just a few bits and you get to read about it while we are on the road. Yes, that’s right, as well as all of our daily activities I’ll be writing everyday. I set myself a challenge to write every day for a year and as this is consecutive blog number 91 I dont think its going too badly. So if you want to check out how the NC500 treats us head on over to this blog’s main page and subscribe! It’s not long now.

I’ve even got the link for you here:

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/

I’m going to keep this bit pretty straight forward. 

Cold water and wild swimming – 

If I have learned anything in recent years, I cannot stand the heat. I used to do so well when going to places like the Caribbean, Egypt and Spain, but something about being in the UK and its heat waves with no way of cooling myself down has made me fall out of love with it big time. This is why I have tried to think outside the box to keep cool. I have stared at the fishing lake near our house and dreamed of how fresh it would feel on my skin. And yet the crowds and the fact it is not for swimming is a big deterrent. Other places are obviously more suitable. When we went to Northumberland for the first time in August 2021, I came face to face with an absolutely stunning waterfall, Crammel Linn, (blog link below) and instantly regretted not wearing my swimming costume. We were totally alone and I wanted to jump right in. 

There were several waterfalls in Australia that I could have swam in and my anxiety stopped me. It is something I regret even now. 9 years of regret!

I didn’t jump into the waters of Crammel Linn, I honestly could not see a safe way into the water from the river bank and decided on that day that when the next opportunity arose I’d do it. Since then we have been to other waterfalls in Northumberland and it’s not happened. I kind of feel that I’m waiting for Scotland. It feels to me like more of an adventure holiday. 

The fear is definitely creeping in and I’m yet to sort out one which ones are safe out of the very many we are visiting but I think doing my research will definitely help me conquer the anxiety. Some of the waterfalls I think will be okay are the Fairy pools in the Isle of Skye and Plodda Falls near Inverness.

There’s also the absolutely freezing waters of the North sea and the Hebrides Sea Shelf to contend with. We’ll have so many chances to swim in the sea along the way. On the east coast there is Chanonry Point and the area surrounding the Tarbat Ness Lighthouse. And on the west there is Red Point beach, Talisker Bay beach and the very wild Sandwood Bay. Sandwood Bay is a 8 mile round trip hike that we are hoping to pull off in the first week of our trip. It is said to be completely untouched due to how off the beaten track it is. Although if anyone fancies building a temporary beach bar on the day we arrive, that would be fab! My anxiety here is just how cold it’ll be but I think that’s the novelty of it all, so there is definitely less anxiety about that part. 

Feeling the fear a bit on this one but absolutely planning to do it anyway. 

A hop, skip and a fracture.

BIG hikes – 

Mr W and I have definitely been doing more big walks in the last year. Owing to the fact we aren’t quite ready to travel abroad just yet, (thanks covid, price rises and chaos at airports) we are checking out the UK like never before. And a lot of things in the UK require walking. A lot of walking. It would be quite simple to head to the coast and walk along a promenade with an ice cream but crowds at the moment are a hard challenge for me. Covid has definitely presented my anxiety with some hurdles. Mr W just doesn’t like people. I joke. Sort of. Mostly. 

When we went to Northumberland, we tackled some pretty amazing hikes which pushed our lockdown frozen limbs to wake up. The fact that we started, finished and enjoyed this all new experience was simply amazing and it’s definitely a bug that we have caught and continued to profess our love for. With that in mind we are tackling some pretty hefty walks on this trip and even though I know we are determined and stubborn enough to do them, I’m quite unsure on just how much our bodies are going to take. We will be travelling every single day of the 15 day trip. From dawn till dusk we’ll be exploring, driving, walking and at some points scrambling. I’m starting to wonder just how many days in it’ll be that the fatigue finds us. We have one day where a train will take over the work of our feet and it’ll feel more like a vacation and quite frankly a day to repair. And then there are other days when it’s going to be hard. There are two walks in particular that stand out to me. I point blank refuse to delete them from the trip, but the anxiety is becoming real. 

The Sandwood Bay walk isn’t necessarily hard, it is just long! 4 miles out and 4 miles back. There are sandy areas which means my ankles will take a battering and the weather could potentially play havoc. If the weather in Scotland is anything similar to Northumberland, we could have wind, rain, blinding sunshine and muggy weather all in one day. It worries me that it could drain us of the little energy reserve we will have. The only thing getting me through this stage of anxiety is repeating to myself constantly: ‘you can’t control the weather’. I just have to prepare for it. Personally I believe I could change my middle name to organised and no one would question it. 

Another challenge is our very last walk of the trip. The Catbells walk in the Lake District. It is 3-4 hours of moderate hiking. So it is nowhere near as long as the other walk, but it is taking us to heights of 1481 feet and this is something I have never done. Nothing I’ve done comes close. Eep! I chose it because it interested me the most out of all the hikes in the area but still, this is a biggy. I’m trying to remind myself that if I try to live up to someone else’s pace I’ve already lost. I have to go at my speed, my ability and live for me. Who knows where we’ll be heading next year. This might be one of our last hikes for a while. Maybe, just maybe, that’ll make it that much more special. 

There we have it. A small insight into our trip and a big insight into the anxieties travelling can present. I do know that just trying to do these walks and swims will give me a boost rather than regret at not. I know that the feeling at the end of these experiences will heavily outweigh the fear I feel at the beginning. Maybe fear is the untapped resource we should all tap into once in a while. 

Scattered skies

Picture the scene. It’s 10pm. You’ve eaten lots of BBQ food and you’re being called into the darker parts of the landscape. Light is fading and you are wondering what could possibly hold such an interest. The random torches go out and around you, necks are bent, heads are up. 

Above you is a star strewn sky like nothing you’ve ever seen before. It is quite literally a blanket. Scatters of diamonds glittering away. The milky way in all of its glory. Below you your feet are set into the red dirt of the outback shrouded in complete darkness. You cannot see anything in front of you. The only light pollution you’ll find here is the twinkle of the stars looking on from a million miles away.  

I have been enamoured with the night sky since that moment 9 years ago in Australia. I’d never fully appreciated the concept of a true dark sky until that night. I always thought it was good to see the big dipper when I was out and about in England. That felt like a treat. Now I know what hides behind the clouds. What fades away because of surrounding streetlights. Back then I thought I captured absolutely everything on my camera and yet I have no photos of that night. I’ve tried so hard to describe it to people and I never seem to do it justice. The only other time I’ve ever seen anything remarkably close is when walking along a freshly tarmacked pavement when snow has just started to fall. The specks of white snow stand out starkly against the black backdrop and as more falls it reminds me of the Australian skies. 

Chasing a memory is all good and well but when Mr W said there were ‘dark skies’ areas around the UK I found myself wanting to chase stars again. 

It started with a visit to Thirsk in North Yorkshire, just a simple overnight visit on our way to Edinburgh. After a smooth 5 hour drive we dumped our bags and headed to Sutton Bank Visitor Centre. It is a beautiful area with just a short climb up the hill to see over the Yorkshire Moors. With sunlight fading fast Mr W set up his camera and waited for darkness. It was not necessarily the darkest sky I’ve ever seen, the towns below cast a glow upwards and it didn’t hit the proverbial spot. Seeing the moths attack a head torch wearing Mr W made my trip worthwhile and we left laughing. 

Our next attempt was only a month later in Northumberland National Park. A location very high on the list of dark sky spots online. Our lodge had a dedicated garden area just for the occasion and we spent a very cold hour outside watching for stars. Here is where Mr W triumphs and my inability to be patient fails me. As I’ve learned from our recent visit to Northumberland, the sun setting at 9/10pm doesn’t necessarily mean dark skies. In fact only last week did the horizon continue its illuminations well past midnight. Very strange indeed. However back in September 2021 at 10pm the sun had truly disappeared and we were blessed with a clear, albeit cold, night sky. Mr W got all the gadgets out and whizzed away setting everything up. And then there’s me. This wasn’t Australia. No blanket of stars to see via the naked eye. Just the odd star pinpointed here and there covering your peripheral sight with your elbow because this dark sky spot had a porch light activated by movement. You have to laugh, you really do. I felt like a fox being caught sneaking into a chicken coop everytime I moved. We did in fact have a lovely time, aside from my complaining, watching the planets. I seem to remember it was Jupiter that appeared in the sky and even to this naked eye, it was pretty impressive. 

One day it will happen. Maybe in Scotland. The highlands are supposed to be some of the Uk’s best dark skies locations. With villages being very small and untroubled by streetlights I think there’s a good chance my patience will be rewarded. 

I’m also aiming to be on high alert for some Northern light tracking. I have an app set up on my phone to alert me to the perfect conditions and will (WILL!) drag Mr W and our sorry arses out of our rented bed to the night-time skies to see the colours dance once more. 

Dancing skies of lights or stars seem to hold an interest with me. I think it’s where your eyes can roam and your mind can rest. Where your feet stay still and yet you feel transported. Ultimately, that’s something to be patient for. 

Scattered minds rest while gazing at scattered skies. 

Photo by Dave Watson
Please check out his work on https://www.instagram.com/davewatson_uk/ or at https://davewatson1980.picfair.com

Planning for the NC500

It has been a while since I’ve given an update on the big trip coming up for us in late summer. As of midnight tonight, our mega busy month of June will be over and it is just as well as Mr W has caught covid. So this weekend of planned ‘time-out’ truly will be a stay at home event. No plans. No house stuff. Not even sharing a bed or a sofa at the moment with the fella so it is truly a time-out event. He actually seems okay at the moment which is a huge relief. So yes, June has been a tad mad. A weekend away in Norfolk. A long weekend in Northumberland. Family parties. Errands galore. Life. And finding time to run this house. But hey, we made it through!

And here we start the countdown to Scotland! The NC500 is calling and I cannot believe we are so close. The house is starting to look like a doomsdayers shelter with boxes piling high for all the food and supplies we are taking. The itinerary I have (so far) is crazy long and it is still not finished. 

Granted there are minor things left to be done now, a few payments, adjustments mainly to the Isle of Skye section and a couple of reservations to be made. Otherwise it’s the behind the scenes stuff. I need to get my organising head on and tackle all the food boxes. I really do not want to spend my days digging through boxes of food to find a meal. So I want our car to be like a pantry, all food that will be eaten in the car, will be in one or two boxes in the rear footwells. This goes for the travel water bottles, drinks, kettle etc. Food in the back of the car will be for meals in the evenings and mornings, so ideally easy to grab as we arrive at hotels along with our essentials such as clothing and toiletries. 

We need an easy system for our clothing so we don’t have to haul our luggage out every night. We have 12 hotels in 14 days, that’s a lot of hauling! 

It feels like the car is basically going to be a home on wheels for 15 days without the bed. 

I’d also like to sort out some kind of bin system for while we are between hotels so we’re not mixing up recyclables with rubbish. Today, I spent some time contacting all of our hotels and I have to say it’s been an unexpected surprise. I’ve heard back from 8 or so, so far, and they have all been super friendly and understanding of our mission to be sustainable while on our trip. A few have said they pick through the bins from the guest rooms themselves and divide up the rubbish. Where I commend this, I couldn’t necessarily let someone do this on our behalf. So I’m aiming to use sustainable brown paper bags to put our recyclable waste into and our hopefully very minimal rubbish will be binned in the hotel as provided. If I manage to find the time, I want to find some recycling points along the route too. It just takes the pressure off of us emptying the car at the end of the day. This gives our sustainable mission every opportunity to be fulfilled and definitely makes all the planning worthwhile. 

In the ‘Sustainability on a budget’ and ‘Out of body experience’ blogs from April and May (links below), I spoke about how we had been testing out the idea of tinned food and it’s proved quite successful. All tins but the ravioli and meatballs were really tasty, packed with the protein we’ll need and give us a much needed break from oatmeal and noodles. It’s also saving us a tonne of money. Usually when we go away we can spend anything between £10 on a budget sandwich or £40 for a meal out. These tins and a few crackers are going to cost between £0.90-£2.00 for each of us and where we’ll be in the car constantly or walking it is the most logical way of eating. There are also very few restaurants on the West side of the highlands so this really is a win-win situation. 

Recyclable. Tick. 

Budget friendly. Tick.

Longlife storage. Tick. 

Tasty. Tick.

Sustainability on a budget
Out of body experience number 342

Something I’ve realised from our Northumberland trip is how much space we will be working with in our car. Four of us squeezed into the car for a four day trip. Which is insane, as the two of us need to fit all of our stuff for 15 days! That’s food, luggage, photography equipment and blogging necessities. Next on my to-do list is finding a laundrette so we can take a week’s worth of clothing to cut down on the space our luggage takes up. Don’t get me wrong, there’s a lot of possibilities to wear the same trousers for a few days in a row or I’m sure Mr W could do the ol’ underwear flip, but the fact remains, we need to wash our clothes. So far I’ve found one laundrette and it’s on a really busy day for us that we’ll be in that area. I’m sure I’ll find one. My initial search was made when I was fighting to stay awake, one eye open and drained by hayfever. There’s a good chance my brain wasn’t functioning at full capacity!

Little triumphs like the bladder bags and kettle have arrived since I last wrote about this trip. And they have been trialled and tested. They’re not too shabby to be fair and I’m convinced after our water intake in Northumberland that our two 5 litre bottles, that we use for our main water supply on a day to day basis, will save our bacon when it comes to hydration and budget. They will be the only plastic bottles on our trip and the fact that we have been using them for over 2 years makes me really happy. Eco-warrior or eco-geek? 

Mr W also found a bargain the other day that he is rather proud of. A pair of work out leggings? Like the gym ones? I have no idea what they are called. But basically they’ll be worn under his trousers and act like thermal/longjohn type things. He’s very pleased with himself. 

He also *drum roll* bought our first fully capable drone and I’m sure once covid has left this household we’ll be doing lots of test flights. It is a smaller model which means we don’t have to apply for a special incense but we do have to register it. I am really excited about this part of the planning as all you ever see with Scotand are aerial shots and I want to see it from land and air. So I am raring to go!

There is one more thing I’m tempted to add into this trip and that is geocaching. I don’t want it to add any locations to our already bursting itinerary but if there are any geocaches in the places we’ll be going that will certainly make things more interesting. Solving some puzzles along the way will make the long walks just that bit more entertaining I think and it’s also so great to be a part of the journey of others by writing in those little logbooks. This will be one of the last things I look into but I hope we can join in wherever possible. Mr W introduced me to it back in 2013 and I really enjoyed the problem solving part of it all. So as long as it’s fun I don’t see the harm in adding it to this powerhouse of a trip.

One thing that hasn’t worked well, and this is me being totally transparent because you have to be honest about these things, is the ponchos we bought on ebay. They can be used as a ground sheet, strung up to make a temporary shelter or worn to keep dry while walking. They have a hood with a drawstring and are ENORMOUS. Absolutely perfect for covering our backpacks and most of our bodies should we get caught out, which is most likely going to happen, on one of our big walks. Unfortunately, while walking in Kielder this past weekend, nature called and demanded the ponchos be worn. After a 25 minute walk my clothes underneath became a little soggy. My chest, arms and the top of my back were damp on our return to the car and this does not bode well when considering we may be walking in rain for over four hours if we are very unlucky. It’s not so much back to the drawing board on this but a fail-safe backup may be needed. I’m thinking, extremely sturdy umbrellas AND ponchos. This is all to avoid paying the extortionate amounts of money for completely waterproof coats and trousers and using what we have instead. Something we cannot risk, me particularly, is sitting in damp clothes. Especially on my chest. I get ill really easily with colds and chest infections and it may stop the trip in its tracks. So we plan, plan, plan to stop this happening!

My what a lot to do in such a short amount of time. I’ll spend more time as we move closer to the departure date detailing some of the tips I have for the hurdles we’ve come up against and any other purchases we make to help us out. 

For now, night night!

Refreshing thoughts

Good things come to those who wait right?

On our third visit to Northumberland and second try at reaching an art installation in Kielder Forest we failed. It is not a word I like to use. Especially when I am the one making the plans. The first time we tried to reach the Janus chairs we were completely unprepared. Trying to find a map online that details the distance between car parks and each art installation was one of the hardest things as preparation. When we attempted the walk last year (2021) it became pretty clear that we had gone the wrong way and after an hour of walking at 4pm we did not have the time needed to get where we needed to be. We realised it would be a 4 hour walk each way from the Bakethin car park to reach the installation and we would need a return trip. Fast forward to June 2022 and we were game to try again. We started with all good intentions. Taking photos of the maps provided at the car parks and grabbing a hand held map from the Visitor Centre at Leaplish water park we felt more informed than ever. 

Starting late was our first hurdle, we spent a lazy hour at our accommodation after a luxurious lunch and dragged out tired arses to Bakethin Car Park. It was the second hurdle that decided our path would end. The car park instructions on tickets left us confused and with only an hour to make an eight hour hike. Nope!

One of the most important things about our trips to Northumberland is how it has affected my ability to let go. When planning a trip I will plan everything down to the minute, but unusually I haven’t been able to do it with Kielder. When something doesn’t go according to plan I feel like a failure and this time I didn’t. It was like I could enjoy the hour we did take a walk and adjust my thoughts on the matter. It helps that Mr W said ‘Oh well, we’ll just have to come back’ and god is that an idea! Returning to a place for a fourth time. What is happening to us? 

Walking along a very hidden trail aside the reservoir feeling the sun kissing my skin and the wind teasing my hair I felt happy, not frustrated. We walked for 30 minutes until we had to retread our steps and return to the ticking clock of the car park ticket.

As we neared the final leg of the journey we came to the viaduct that crosses the reservoir. Its high and large stone walls give views down into the almost black water and to the treetops. Each time I cross it I find it harder to ignore the pull of the view. It would be fruitless to try. Like a moth to a flame, I am drawn to water and the sun’s reflection upon it.  

As the tunnel of trees opened up to the viaduct, we saw that there were rain clouds sweeping in from the horizon and paused to watch them dance. In moments a fine but angry wall of water hit us. We marched ahead into the next shelter of trees. I love how the scenes in Northumberland National Park can change so quickly and dramatically. 

Ten or so metres into the shelter I turned back and watched the scene as it was framed by trees and stone. I applauded myself for not  freaking out about the change in plans and started mentally planning for our return. Leaving something behind as the rain turned it into something new for our return. 

Northumberland – a 4 day plan

So, as you may have seen, we’ve been in Northumberland on a little holiday recently and I thought I’d share my initial itinerary with you. So that’s below, in its most basic forms…

After the first itinerary I’m going to tell you all about the changes I would make and then create a brand new itinerary for you to follow should you ever want to visit one of the UK’s most magical areas.

Edits:

DAY ONE.

Arriving into Alnwick as early as possible would be great for the sake of seeing the gardens to their full extent. The poison garden is absolutely awesome and even though I’m not a tour type of person, it is a must as there are government regulations concerning the Class A, B and C drug plants they have on site. The central fountain and serpentine interactive fountains are just so much fun. The ornamental garden at the top of the site is just absolutely stunning, I recommend taking a book and a sandwich so after you wander you can find a bench and enjoy the tranquil sounds of the streams of water bubbling over their pebbly paths. There are some huge shaded tunnels which are perfect to hide away from the midday sun and yet enjoy the views over the gardens. If you choose to go to the gardens I think you should give a good four to five hours to immerse yourself completely. When buying a ticket for the gardens you can use the Pavilion restaurant which has a beautiful outdoor seating area. The food and drink on offer is tasty enough but light, so as we planned to have dinner here, I now know this is not possible. Also, if you choose to visit Alnwick Castle and not the gardens you cannot go into the Pavilion restaurant, however The Bakery located just outside the entrance to the Alnwick Gardens serves the same food. So don’t despair too much! Should you choose to go into the Castle I believe you only need two or so hours. Which means you can start your day later or spend more time in the town!

After leaving your entrance of choice, I recommend a visit to Barter books, if you choose to use the car park I mentioned, it’s not too far a walk. The car park closes for new cars at 4/5pm, but they leave the exit open so you can park all day without a worry. It is £3 for the whole day which I think is really reasonable.

Barter books is a used book shop housed in an old train station and it is phenomenal! Nothing about the actual building has changed and everything feels so traditional and unchanged, mainly because it is!

There is a tearoom in the old waiting room, and even on our second visit to this place we have missed its opening hours. So, another itinerary edit is to make sure you get there before it’s 6pm closing time! After this you have an hour to look around the building and make sure to look UP in the second room as you enter. It is an absolutely stunning building and I wouldn’t hesitate to go back when in the area! 

DAY TWO

Honestly, when I say have a big breakfast I mean it. The weather changes rapidly in Northumberland and if it’s raining your body is going to need the pep up to keep you moving. IF it’s sunny, you are going to sweat! So good food and slot of fluids! We take our metal drinks bottles or a 2L reusable bottle on our trips and refill them regularly from a 5 litre bottle we keep in the car. Keep hydrated!

We stay in Bellingham when we are in the National Park, it works nicely with visiting Kielder, accessing the petrol station in the village and is only 25 minutes from the A1. There are lots of areas to stay in the National Park and each have their own merits. Most will be self catering so check out the locations for shops for supplies. On this trip we had a lodge in Bellingham and took all of our own food as the hotel shop nearby is a Co-op and they can be pricey at the best of times.

To get the best out of the Hareshaw Linn walk, start early to avoid the majority of all the visitors. Take a long pause at the end of the trail before making your return. There is a cave to sit in, stop and just listen to the waterfall. We allowed 4 hours for this walk, but I’d say it’s easy enough to finish with lots of breaks in 3 hours. These breaks are for the amazing scenes on each of the 6 bridges and the carefully selected locations for the benches. Make sure to keep an eye out for the elusive red squirrel. On both of our visits to this spot we have spotted squirrels and this time even saw a full size deer! Take your time and enjoy!

After your walk, take a short drive down to the amazing Tea on the Train experience to enjoy the home-made sandwiches, cakes and treats on offer. You will not regret it!

Now here is where things got extremely tight on time. The Kielder reservoir is enormous! and the Lakeside way walk is 26 miles long. With multiple art installations it is hard to just pick one. This was our second attempt to walk to the Silvalis Capitalis site and we were thwarted again. In order to do most of the walks in Kielder you need to buy a £5 car park ticket. The walks are long, rewarding but long! So bare this in mind. Buying a £5 all day parking ticket means you can use any of the Kielder car parks so moving around is easier for you should you want to have little wanders rather than do huge hikes.

Here I have changed the afternoon to include a smaller walk along the bottom of the Kielder reservoir. This will take in the Mirage deck installation, the minigolf at the Waterside Visitor Centre and a short 20 minute walk to Freya’s Hut. Give your 4 hours. It is a beautiful area. Keep a look out for wildlife. We saw chaffinches, sparrows and rabbits!

DAY THREE

This is a big choice of options. Option A will be a huge undertaking. 20 miles is a big deal and should not be taken lightly. You will need plenty of water, food, layers of clothing and perseverance. You’ll see slot of the Kielder installations and you will be tired! We will be undertaking this on our next visit and I will link my story back to this blog when we do!

Option B is going to be a lot easier and so much less daunting. The Minotaur maze is found at the Kielder Castle visitor centre. Something fun to get you alive and kicking for the day. There is a toilet block on site.

From here you can join the Forest Drive toll road. The toll is £3 and gives you permission to drive the 12 mile road that takes you through a dense working forest. Prepare to reach the 1500 metres at its highest point and make sure you stop at ‘The Nick’ to admire the views and the wind chill!

This is a simple day, but with so many pleasures. Visit Hindhope Linn, before exiting the toll road and make the very short 15 minute detour up to the Scottish border. To say you popped over to Scotland for an hour is something not many people can say. 15 minutes from the border is Jedburgh which gives you the perfect chance to stretch your legs before heading back to Northumberland. Use my tips for the most beautiful drive and scenic views. With a much smaller and intimate border crossing you’ll feel like you are sneaking back into England!

DAY FOUR

This really all depends on where you are driving home to. We live in Essex and found it to be a nice plan to break up the day. I’ve not changed any of this day as it worked out nicely. Dress up warm for Sycamore Gap as you will be battered by the elements! This walk is less about staircases and more about shingle slopes. It is strenuous but one of the more milder walks in the National Park. A fairly moderate stroll will have you complete the journey from the car park in 40-50 minutes.

Now check out the itinerary below for your final plan!

Hindhope Linn

If for anything else, please go to Northumberland for the waterfalls. I’ve linked my previous encounters with Northumberland waterfalls below. 

I’ve been to four so far and each one holds its own personal charm. 

Today’s one felt particularly special.

Like this post will end up, the walk to Hindhope Linn is short. 

You start your journey in a vehicle of your choice, car, bus, tractor… at Kielder Castle visitor centre. As long as it can handle hills and a bumpy ride you’ll be sorted! It’s a great spot to start from as it has a bank of not too shabby toilets and a pub should you fancy a quick drink. From here you’ll find the 12 mile Forest Drive toll road. There is a cash only toll payment machine as you enter the road, it costs £3. From this road you’ll get an idea of how Forestry England works. It is their road. It is strewn with stones and a fantastic experience

for those wanting sweeping vistas of the pine forest and beyond. This is big sky country for sure. 

At the halfway point and the highest point of the drive you’ll be 1500 metres above sea level and find ‘The Nick’, a stunning marvel of wooden architecture. It invites you in much like a tunnel and leads you to the most stunning view of the landscape you’ve left behind on the ascent. It has a series of pentagons that sporadically twist away from each other with ingenious seating built into its very being. Do not take a picnic, just your best coat, camera and intentions to get beautiful memories and photographs before the wind blows you away. And yes, it is COLD!

Another 5 miles or so down the road and you’ll find a small right hand turn with a toilet block and enough parking for maybe 5 cars. From here follow the trail with the orange markers for approximately 15 minutes. It is a very short trail and at the time of this post, there was a large part of the trail closed due to recent storms and its tall woody victims. Fret not, the walk blesses you with lush paths and dappled shade. We were very fortunate after a morning of rain to feel the sun on our backs as the wet earth underneath gave our feet the cushioning they so desired.

There are a few steep sections on this trail, but as the guide says they are steep and if they caused me any tiredness I did not waver to notice. This place felt really wild and isolated. A bit of me for sure. 

On your right you can hear the rush of water and as you find sloping steps leading down you notice the babbling river beneath you. Turning right to follow another set of stairs you find yourself on the bank of the small stream. Drawing your gaze up to the left, past a small stone half circle acting as a threshold of sorts, you’ll be greeted with the most amazing scene. 

It is green. The plants. The fallen trees. The rocks. All green. As your eyes adjust to the sunshine that seems to envelop this space, like no other scene before, you’ll notice that there is indeed a very beautiful, 20 foot high waterfall. It is gentle in force, but striking in its movement. The water from this beauty has created a space unlike any other I have seen in the world. It is so lush that wherever you look there are carpets of moss. 

I sit for a while and stroke the moss covering a large boulder. It is thick. So thick, my hand disappears into its fluffy texture. There are crowns of ferns that have sprung up in pockets amongst the wood and rocks. They are waving in the breeze. When the sun disappears behind the cloud the whole spot becomes dark and mysterious. It vanishes like magic. And when the sun returns, it shines its light upon the rocks and the plants igniting them back into life. This place is really special. 

It holds a certain mystique. A magic. This gully could be a daydream I have yet to wake up from. As we turn to leave, hundreds upon hundreds of tiny specks are flying, fleeing and falling through this enchanted space. Catching the light they glitter and dance. I imagine them to be fairies and we have found their kingdom. For no place like this can exist for us mere mortals.       

A hop, skip and a fracture.

Be the change

Two 2 litre water bottles

1 500ml water bottle

1 energy drink can

1 beer can

2 metal bottle tops

1 plastic bottle tops

1 plastic straw

Cellophane

1 snack wrapper

2 sweet wrappers

Various corners of snack wrappers

All of the above was found on my 2 hour hike today and I didn’t have to stray from the path I was on to see it all.

Yes folks, today isn’t going to be a happy go lucky travel piece. It’s on the odd occasion I will find the need to relay my frustrations at the human race. Now let’s not pretend I’ve been a saint and recycled all my life and not dropped the odd piece of litter (accidentally). But in this day and age I’m wondering why it is actually found to be so hard to do our bit. By no measure is the above list of litter big in comparison to motorways where rubbish is thrown so freely from a passing car or a farmers field where flytipping is prominent. Those are particular breeds of humans that lack the caring that most people do have. The litter today was discarded by people who have taken the time to visit a beauty spot in Northumberland National Park. It wasn’t an adventure park or a child’s play area. It is a moderately challenging hiking area and it isn’t a thorough fare. You do the walk, reach the end and turn back. You have to choose to do this. Which means you want to. In wanting to it means you find an appeal. The appeal in nature and all its beauties. 

The hike was to Hareshaw Linn in Bellingham. It is an astounding place which on a sunny day could have been lifted straight from Costa Rica. Its dappled shade, enclosed spaces and the area’s ability to rain on and off in continuous sunshine has created a microclimate where birds, ferns and flowing water all exist harmoniously. The most brilliant path winds through the greenery as you head along the trail. 6 bridges criss-cross you over the river as it bubbles and crashes its way over rocks, pebbles and magnificent boulders. It is a splendid walk. At the end you are met with a 30 foot masterpiece of water and rock. The rock is black with moisture and the water is white with the pace it has found. It plunges into a deep but small pool where it meets rock and continues on its way. 

On arrival today we were shocked to see that an equally tall tree had taken the plunge into the pool from the shelf above. The devastation was immediately evident as half of the waterfall was hidden from view. Having visited this place last year, Mr W and I thanked our lucky stars we had a ‘before image’ in our memories for this place. We spent a good hour watching the water from its adjacent cave as dog walkers and families came along the path. This place screams serenity. As you do with time, I started to notice the smaller parts of my surroundings: the pieces of litter in the rocks around the pool. 

It got me thinking about the damage we do to this planet. Not really seeing how it affects the places we visit. The beauty feels tainted when a plastic bottle floats alongside nature’s majesty. It was only when someone viewing the falls said that it was ‘such a shame the tree is ruining the view’ that I realised how fragile we are in nature’s grip. If we can look at a tree that has been blown down by a strong wind and call it a misfortune while stepping over a discarded sweet wrapper, are we hypocrites? Aren’t we the wind in that situation? We, the human race, are destroying nature by littering so carelessly. 

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, we are guests on this planet and should have learned plenty from the last two years: to care for this planet and thrive in its stead. For there may come a day, when like that tree, a wind blows up with its mighty power and decides our roots no longer play a part in our standing. It will blow us down the river, unwanted and discarded. 

We are not the wind. 

We are not the power. 

We can be the change we want to see in the world. 

One step at a time. 

One thought given.

Many possibilities.