Tag: nc500

NC500 Day 2 – Itinerary

Hello and welcome back to the Scotland itinerary series. 

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

As you may have seen from the itinerary from Day 1 (link below) we started our trip on the eastside of Scotland which is quite unusual as it approaches the NC500 in an anticlockwise manner. Most tips tell you to combat the route in a clockwise form, however as we had plans in Edinburgh and we had plans to finish in the Lake District this worked better for us. Mr W had also heard a tidbit about travelling anti-clockwise too. In all honesty, everything I heard prior to our trip suggested that the east coast of Scotland is vastly different to the western side. In a way I would agree, they are very different. However, in the opinions I read it became quite obvious that people favour the west coast of the Highlands which is a shame. The east has so much to offer and I found it was just the best build up to the rest of the journey. It gradually envelops you into the route. The villages are pretty and the coastline is easier to navigate on foot. 

So without much ado, let’s continue with the itinerary. This was one of the easiest days in terms of navigation.

Day 2 was such a beautiful day filled with wonderful activities to help you stretch those legs as you introduce yourself to Scotland.

We ate in our hotel room in order to save time and money. We used our pre-packed oats and our hotel had a kettle so this really helped us. 

Start your day as early as sunlight allows. The Old PackHorse Bridge needs at least the beginnings of sunlight to fully appreciate. We made sure to get here mega early so we were alone and there was just one other vehicle in the car park when we arrived. The walk to the bridge is along the main road in the town of Carrbridge. It was very easy and yet packed a punch for those early morning thrills. To get the best view of the bridge itself there is a wooden staircase just a few metres off of the current bridge. Please take care using these stairs, they can be extremely wet. 

From here we journeyed to the House of Bruar which stands in front of the pathway to the Falls of Bruar. Parking is free. There is much advice online to use the toilets in this establishment as they are rumoured to be the ‘poshest’ toilets in the highlands. I cannot confirm or deny this fact as we were quick to leave after spending a lot more time on the hike than we originally planned. There is advice online about the walk itself. It says to turn left as you approach the first bridge on this walk. One thing I can advise to the unsteady on their feet is to cross the bridge and take the walk up the hill on the right hand side of the river. It is a steep walk which I for one could only tackle uphill. If I were presented with that steepness on the descent I would not have been happy. We did the loop walk anticlockwise in its entirety and still got to see everything. The descent on the left hand side had long stretches of large rocks embedded in dryer earth to walk down. This is something for you to consider as you approach this walk. 

Something I do wish we had done is visit the House of Bruar which is a huge complex of shops with clothing, trinkets and even plants. It looked so decadent and by the time we had returned from the falls it was really filling up. Maybe add an hour onto your day and take time to look around? I also spied a coffee area which would be a welcome treat after your walk!

Having spent so long at the falls, we head straight to Clansman Harbour, Inverness for our Loch Ness Cruise. Our cruise time was at 2pm. There are other times for the cruises so you could potentially get a cruise at 4pm if this suits you better. We went with the 50 minute Clansman cruise which was perfect for us. If we had had the time, we would have approached Inverness via Fort Augustus to give us the perfect introduction to Loch Ness. By doing this you will drive from Fort Augustus up the left hand side of the Loch to Canmans Harbour and be able to peek out at the water as you go. 

Not usually one to jump on the typical tourism bandwagon the cruise was a welcome relief from walking and driving. When you think of Inverness and Scotland in particular you, or maybe just I, always think of Nessie. So I just had to include this on our trip. It was relatively cheap and, as expected, packed with tourists. We had no trouble getting a seat. The only trouble was the grey sky and the condensation on the inside of the windows. It meant we didn’t see much of the Loch itself and as it is a looping cruise, you see the same bits out and inwards. Would I do it again? No. Am I glad we did it? Yes. It feels like a rite of passage for sure. I have linked the website below for you to book your tickets. The car park for the harbour is located across the road so don’t let the location fool you. Try and arrive ahead of your journey time as there aren’t many car park spaces and there are lots of people arriving by coach. There is a walkway that gives you safe passage under the busy road to the harbour. This is conveniently located next to a large ‘Nessie’ statue at the far end of the car park. A large gift shop can also be found at this location. 

Be aware, there are not very many gift shops on the route and therefore you should buy any desired trinkets when you see them. Prices remained similar in the few shops I did see. For example, magnets were generally £2.50-3.99.

After our brief cruise we made our way to Plodda Falls, which was well signposted on the approach. There is a charge for the car park which is very reasonable. We found there were quite a few midges here so grab those midge nets or deet sprays. We didn’t fare too badly on this entire trip but it is always good to be prepared. The waterfall here is exceptional and the observation deck is NOT to be missed. There are two trails you can try. The white marked Plodda Falls Trail and the green marked Tweedmouth Trail. Somehow we started on the white trail and finished on the green trail. I know I know, we did not start very strong on our trial following. But there are no complaints about doing it this way. If you have time constraints, definitely do the first trail and if unsure, just retrace your steps. 

A perfect end to a fantastic day! We stayed in Strathpeffer and booked in for two nights for the next few days’ activities. (Review to be linked below soon!)

Oh and your car will be absolutely filthy from the dusty, single track road to Plodda. Sorry about that! The Scottish rain will soon sort it right out.

https://www.jacobite.co.uk/tours

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/09/highlight-two-of-the-nc500-a-tall-observation/

NC500 Day 2 – Bruar, Loch Ness and Plodda Falls
NC500 Day 1 – Itinerary

NC500 Day 1 – Itinerary

Hello, we are back! What a trip and experience and just everything unimaginable. I almost feel the need to apologise to the UK at this point for previously thinking it had nothing to offer. Who would have thought covid restrictions and airline and airport issues would bring us so much joy in pushing us to try something new!

This is blog one of the Scotland itinerary series. Much like the Italy itineraries I shared with you, I will be posting the itineraries for this mammoth trip day by day so you can get a real feel for what this involves. I will be editing my original itinerary and including the new and improved version for you below. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

So let’s start shall we…

I had hoped we would dig into our pre-bought food supplies to have a breakfast of porridge on our very first day however having to be in the car at 5am did not warrant getting up at 4am for a more refined meal. I salute the previous buying of sausages rolls and fruit for the journey up from Essex the day before as we tucked into a much simpler breakfast. 

Having missed our opportunity to do Arthurs Seat in 2021, we drove to Edinburgh to complete our ticklist for the city. We planned to park in our trusty free parking spot in Kirkwood place, however despite arriving early we found this completely rammed. This may be due to it being a neighbourhood area and everyone still being in bed! However with quick googling skills I found a car park literally at the start of the walk for Arthurs Seat and also free on weekends. Highly recommended!

As mentioned in my Day One blog (link below) you will see that we stupidly took the wrong route. As a starting hike for this trip, we intended to keep it nice and simple and therefore wanted to take the blue route to the top of Arthur’s Seat. And yet you will not find any signposts for the different routes. The only advice I can give you is to take the grass route when everyone veers right. As you walk up the tarmacked path with the sloping hills of Arthurs seat on your right and the road on your left, you will climb a sloping hill that turns to the right. Above you on the left are some ruins with a mud path leading up to it should you like a quick look. Returning to the same path, this is where I found the path took a definite right hand turn and the shingle underfoot became larger and looser. This is where a sign would be posted for the blue/red routes. The blue route follows the pronounced grassy hill on the left and the red route is on the right. At our climbing time everyone was on the right and we sheep followed it unknowingly. We kept an eye on the grassy path as we climbed the rocky alternative and it was very clear from above which route would have been more favourable. By taking the blue/grassy route you make a slower, more gradual ascent up ol’ Arthur and definitely smoother. You will slowly curve your way up the grassy sides of the volcano before rejoining the red route for the last very short scramble. Whether you take the blue or red route, the last scramble is the same. There is no clear path to follow as it is literally a hands and feet climb across an expanse of jagged but small rocks. For ease I would return via the blue route, whether you used the red for the ascent or not. It is less busy and has better views of the top as you return to your car. 

Be aware once at the top there are no plateaus as such so put all your weight in your legs for those all important selfies and be prepared for the wind! This is a great little introduction to the hikes of Scotland.

Continue your day up the eastside of Scotland to the Cairngorms National Park. This is not a route to rush. We crossed the Queensferry Bridge which was just fabulous and please do take time when driving through Edinburgh to look at all the fantastic architecture. There are also beautiful tree-lined avenues just outside the city itself and I-spied a gorgeous park called South Inch Park that I could easily have spent an hour or so with a coffee.   

As you enter the Cairngorms the scenery dramatically changes and I feel it is a perfect start to your wilds of Scotland trip. The great thing is there are many many stopping points and they invite you to stop and drink it all in. I advise you to use as many of these as possible. During our time, there were lots of motorbike riders and sports car drivers on the snow roads and we wanted to be slow to take it all in. The laybys help you avoid the rushing for sure. 

Our aim was to drive through the National Park to Grantown on Spey for our hotel (link to review will be added below very soon) and stop at the Balmoral Estates for the walk to the Prince Albert Cairn. Unfortunately due to the Queen’s passing on 8th September the estates’ walks were closed. We did however check out the car park and found it much bigger than I initially understood it to be and it would be a shame if you miss this off of your itinerary. Therefore I have included the information for you below! Go for it! One day we will get there. 

Be very aware you are on the grounds of the royal house of Balmoral and flying a drone at the Cairn will be prohibited. 

I advise you to stay at Grantown on Spey as there are a lot of food options and it is the perfect starting point for Day 2 of my itinerary! We had some fabulous and much needed hot food to finish off the day. Recommendations coming soon. 

A lot of this day is dedicated to driving. The first slog of driving is uneventful but you make up for this with the stop and start nature of the second half. It is definitely a great introduction to what lies ahead!

NC500 Day 1- Edinburgh and the Cairngorms.
Highlight one of the NC500 – A royal goodbye

Scotland, where do I start…

Where do I start…

I sort of disappeared didn’t I? An avid reader actually thought something had happened to us. But I promise day 13, 14, and 15 of our trip ended quite simply and without too much to talk about. It was also our wedding anniversary on day 13 and with a few disappointments in our plans for the day it was easier to focus on us and enjoy the day for what it was than what it could have been. 

Over the coming weeks, I’ll be re-visiting our trip over on my instagram and facebook pages with all the photos I have that I think are worthy of sharing, there are over 2000, and I’ll be updating all the daily itineraries so you can benefit from our learnings. There will also be a mini Lake District blog coming soon and I’ll be discussing just how successful being ultra prepared was. 

So there is a lot in the pipeline and I honestly can’t believe it has been a week since I’ve written. In a way it’s been nice to have a break, as you can imagine writing while travelling did not leave me with a lot of time to relax. It was often the case that the spare hour or so that I had in the evenings, between accommodation arrival and bedtime was purely given over to recapping the day. At times, it felt like a slog, one evening in particular I was puking up my dinner (suspected sun stroke, haha yep, in Scotland) and then back to writing ten minutes later. But most of the time, it really did help me wind down and process the day in a really special way. 

Moving forward I’ll be able to pick apart the days further which will bring the memories flooding back. Which I am really looking forward to. Scotland really was a picture perfect experience. Every twist and turn of the roads gave new light and insight into the landscape and not once did we hesitate to turn round to peek at another roadside waterfall or river. It is safe to say we are addicted!

Down to restraints of weather, time and sometimes physical ability (hi sciatica, you utter tw*t) we actually only managed about 90% of our visits which isn’t something to sniff at but I am rather hard on myself for not achieving the desired 100%!

We also found that a lot of the businesses we were aiming to visit had changed their timings at the last minute or were closed due to unforeseen circumstances. As you can imagine, having missed some bits of this trip means I have already started building a ‘Scotland 2.0’ itinerary and it is already incorporating places we want to go to again. I’ll be discussing these in my ‘Highlights of Scotland’ blogs (also coming soon). So strap on those reading glasses, for it is going to be a whirlwind, much like the windy conditions we are experiencing in Essex today, for the Scotland information coming your way is going to be full on! All in all, I estimate there will be approximately 25 blogs to entice you to try this trip for yourself. 

This month is proving to be really quite busy for Mr W and I. We have a birthday party for a rather special lady to plan, a trip up north to negotiate, a few days out in London, work trips and friends to catch up with. November too, is getting rather full! In the coming weeks we will be setting our travel plans for 2023 (crazy!) and the logistics that they will present.  

Something I have realised in the last three weeks is just how special travel is to me. It is a given that I find travel special having started this blog and taking you through my history and present relationships with worldwide travel. And yet, this trip has ultimately taught me so much about myself and how my (and Mr W’s) tastes have changed. Scotland has opened my eyes to what travel can be moving forward and how you travel ultimately being such an important factor of the trip. So until I really get stuck in to the future blogs, I wanted to say a huge thankyou to Mr W for all the support on this trip, it was NOT easy, sciatica is no laughing matter and on day 2 I was extremely close to coming home, all the driving and all the hysterical laughs that he pulled out of me. It’s also prudent to point out how much trust he had in me in planning this trip. It was enormous in scale and I’m grateful we came out the otherside with more love than ever. Although I’m sure Mr W would gratefully have thrown me off a cliff at some points. 

And then, there are the thank you’s to you all. The people who continue to read about our lives and those who share and invite new people to read along. It’s given me a sense of purpose back and isn’t that just a wonderful thing!

Oh! And one final little preview, I will be reviewing all of our accommodation and giving you all some foodie tidbits. As always I will be completely honest and that means sharing the good and the bad. Once the blogs mentioned in this post have been written they will be linked down below and also on the original ‘NC500 Day XX’ Blogs too. I’ll incorporate all the pre-packed food and the packed essentials into these blogs so you can determine for yourself how worthwhile it all is.

Till then… 

NC500 Day 12 – Glencoe and the Trossachs

Miles: 168 Wildlife: 1 heron. Camper Vans: 15+. Steps: 6883.

Cost of pre-bought food: £5.90 approximately

Extra costs: Breakfast £7.80, Dinner £51

This morning started like most on this trip. Eyes peeking out through tired lids. Brain starting  recalling the itinerary for the day ahead. And busy hands packing away various bags and brushing teeth. 

Last night, as part of a pre-emptive strike, I clicked on the website for the Ben Nevis gondolas to check if they were running today. As per advice a month or so ago I was to check arrangements on the day as they do not run in bad weather. So off I went only to find out the autumn timings had been brought in and they were closed on the very day we were meant to be there. I’ll admit it, I was quite ‘miffed’. Something about Ben Nevis is quite thrilling to me and losing this opportunity had not been taken lightly. Normally I would sit up and adjust the itinerary to compensate for the loss, but I physically could not stay away. Win win for the insomniac! 

Waking to Mr W’s alarm reminded me that he didn’t know about the change in plans. He was just as disappointed as me. The consolation at large is we are already starting to plan our return and this will just be added to the list of places we need to attempt again. 

While attempting to reshuffle the day, I noticed the Glencoe walk today wasn’t igniting a fire within me and I started to question why I felt so lacklustre. Was I too tired? I passed the plan to Mr W and he said the walk looked a tad boring too. We decided to change things up a bit. 

First of all, I had the best shower of our whole trip, spent time drying my hair and then treated Mr W to a pastry at the Rain Bakery in Fort William. He had the maple and bacon swirl while I went for my usual Pain au Chocolat. They were ever so slightly warm and hands down the best pastries we have both ever had. Truth be told, I wish I’d gone back and bought another. But hey, let’s hope they don’t go down the same route as other independent businesses and are still there when we return! Mmmm. 

Setting off later than normal was quite the gift and instead of seeing the Ben Nevis range up close and personal we tried to see it from afar. We parked in the Corpach loch car park and were thrilled, well I was, to see the Jacobite train making its first trip of the day in the distance. As we parked, I jumped out of the car and RAN to meet it at the level crossing. The same excitement flowed through my body as the locomotive came closer and funnelled its stream of steam into the cold morning air. To be that close again was just amazing and as we were now without a platform it just seemed so much bigger. I remember gasping in utter delight. We stopped while it passed and watched it disappear into the hills once more. Magical. 

Remembering what we had come for, we crossed the train tracks and walked towards the edge of the Loch. Across the vast expanse of water sat the Nevis range under thick clouds. The day, it seemed, was not being kind. However, you cannot win everything on these trips and the ability to be flexible is one I wish to wholeheartedly have one day. I’m getting there. With a nod to Mr W we left to say goodbye to Fort William. 

We took the time to drive down the length of Loch Linnhe and onto the famous Glencoe region. The sheer size of the mountains on the westside of Scotland have been indescribable and the peaks here are no different. Some rise up smoothly like hills and then there are the others that are dramatic and erupt out of the earth flamboyantly and all of a sudden. 

If I am completely honest, I wasn’t too blown away by the landscape. Mr W and I talked about it at length today. About how and why we felt a lack of connection to the day. There were several theories. Maybe we were homesick. Maybe we didn’t want to go home. Maybe the amount of tourists in Fort William and Glencoe was something we hadn’t yet experienced on the trip so far. Maybe we are just tired. They are all valid reasons. Maybe, just maybe, you can have too much of a good thing. The mountains in Glencoe are more green and grassy than their rocky, grey counterparts in north western Scotland and I think I do prefer those. It is a strange feeling to be underwhelmed in such a beautiful place. We have nothing like this in Essex. We don’t even have a waterfall. We have a man made lake near where we live. It is a fishing lake next to a playground. It’s not relaxing, nor is it amazing. I have chastised myself several times today when I’ve lost my ability to get excited.

We stopped to have a good picnic lunch from our supplies by Loch Tulla and after just a few minutes were surrounded by tour coaches and hoards of people posing for photos. After talking to one of the coach drivers, we were told that tours often start in Glasgow and head to Fort William and then onto Skye. I guess it gives people that don’t have time to tour round the exact snapshots of Scotland that they can go home and feel satisfied. It was then that we realised it may be the amount of people around us in the last few days that has diluted our experience. I truly believe this is down to the way we travel having changed and this is because of covid. It will be interesting moving forward to see how this affects international travel and city breaks. 

It helps to talk these things through and have someone you really can talk to. I know I’m very lucky. After hitting mile 2000 on this trip we made our way through the Trossachs National Park and through to the 3 Lochs Forest Drive. Originally not on the plans for today, it replaced the ‘boring’ walk and I was glad of it. We like the forest drive in Kielder Forest and hoped this would spark the same enjoyment. As we crept along the forest drive we found so many similarities to the site in Northumberland and when we came upon a clearing, we took the opportunity to fly the drone and stop for a leg stretch. Reading a nearby sign we found out that you can camp on the forest drive for £4 a night and it started us talking, once again, about the next trip up to Scotland. Due to constraints of weather and my back hurting, we have trimmed a few items out of the daily plans so far and aim to return as soon as possible to complete these things and of course add more!

Feeling rejuvenated, both mentally and physically, we head down through Glasgow for dinner and have just arrived at our accommodation. It has been a funny day. It’s not the last day in Scotland that I imagined but at the same time what I once imagined would be a goodbye is now a see you later. 

Tomorrow we drive down to the Lake District for our wedding anniversary. 

Until then, be kind to yourself, not everything deserves a smile, but you deserve everything.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/16/nc500-day-12-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/17/highlight-12-of-the-nc500-3-lochs-forest-drive/ 

Last photo by Dave Watson
Please check out his work on https://www.instagram.com/davewatson_uk/ or at https://davewatson1980.picfair.com

NC500 Day 11: Jacobite Steam Train, Loch Eilt and Glenfinnan Viaduct

Miles: 138 Wildlife: 5 deer and several jellyfish. Camper Vans: 10 or so. Steps: 9913.

Cost of pre-bought food: £3.50 approximately

Extra costs: Lunch £11.80, Dinner £16

Today was a really special day. Something I’ve wanted to do for such a long time. Something I thought only existed in a movie and yet the moment I found out its authenticity I couldn’t help but dream. And isn’t that what travelling is about? Achieving dreams?

We left Skye at 6am this morning and other than the odd early morning deer in the road, quite literally playing the deer caught in headlights, it was exceptionally quiet. It’s become quite the norm for us to be out in the dark chasing the map ahead of us and being alone in the sleepy streets. Even today, on day 11, it isn’t easy. One thing I cannot stress enough to anyone thinking of this trip and whether it is viable is just how intense the timetable is. When I release our itinerary in the coming weeks and the alterations we have made along the way please bear in mind there has not been a day in this second week where we have felt full of energy. There are no regrets to speak of, it is so amazing here that when you are out and about your energy flourishes, it is only when you stop that it falters. You, well I, lose the plot over something so minor. This evening, when we reached our hotel, ahead of schedule, whoop, we decided to crack open some tins of food for something other than a pot noodle. We have sweetcorn, potatoes and tuna.We stood by the car for quite some time tonight packing clothing, food and valuables. When the time came to sort out dinner, I looked around and realised the tin opener was still in the car. Over the past week or so we’ve always forgotten something or another in our home on wheels, and yet tonight it tipped me over the edge. Add one cup of tiredness, one cup of exhaustion and mix into an already crazy lady and you’ll find a resemblance of the girl who sat in front of her husband upset. 

Obviously, he said it was fine. And obviously, said it was normal to not be perfect. I’m still learning to give myself a break when it comes to mistakes. It’s a slow process for sure. 

Let’s continue with what we did today shall we?

Our first drive of the day was a big one. Well, a lot bigger than recent drives have been. The drive itself took 2 ¾ hours, it did include a pitstop on a bridge so we could change our clothes. It was the first parking space we found when we could see what we were doing. The sky was lit nicely enough but by god was it cold. The last 36 hours or so have changed rapidly in temperature and we are in single digits for the first time. Changing from my joggers into a dress on the side of a cold road was definitely an experience, especially when trucks that blasted by were sending the spray up from the road. 

But it was of no real importance. I just wanted to look more like me than a scabby foot today. That’s another thing about doing these kinds of intense trips. You end up wearing simple clothes, no makeup and life becomes more about function than pretty. Clothing you don’t mind getting muddy, wet and even really sweaty!

Oh aren’t I the chatty one tonight. Go big or go home eh? Another hot chocolate for fuel, sil vou plait.  

So, dressy dress on, hair brushed and face made up, we parked up in Fort William at just past 9am and waltzed over to Tom-Na-Faire station. The excitement for one of us was very real and Mr W said it was palpable.  As the minutes ticked by, the queues grew and then, there she was. With her big black locomotor and deep burgundy carriages. The Jacobite Steam Train is popular due to how it inspired a certain author in her books. It is heavily impregnated in the Harry Potter books. The train takes Harry to school on his first day at wizarding school. The train is called the Hogwarts Express and just being near it felt magical. I felt like I had received my invite to study at Hogwarts castle and after 25 years of waiting, I was finally on my way. The platform was full of Potter and train enthusiasts alike and I was all of a dither flying around posing for photos and squealing at the steam emitted from the chimney. 

Finding our seats we settled in for the 2 hour journey to Mallaig. There was a man with a food trolley who asked ‘anything from the trolley?’ and a souvenir lady who came down the carriage. And then we crossed the very real viaduct that you see in so many of the films. Notably in the Chamber of Secrets when Ron and Harry drive their flying car up and over the moving train and down and through the viaduct arches. It is absolutely iconic and just to travel over this icon was amazing. The 9 year old girl who lives somewhere inside me was very happy indeed. 

A girl in front of me was equally excited and bought a chocolate frog and Bertie Bott’s every flavour beans from the trolley and we laughed as she tested the beans. She offered me one and laughed as I gagged at the taste of cabbage which was meant to resemble rotten egg. It was nice to be around like minded people. Harry Potter has long been a book series I return to when I am in need of comfort. I share the love of these books with my dad and many friends and believe they will stand the test of time. 

Alighting at Malliag, we wandered the harbour staring out at the water, as we have become accustomed to do, and watched the men working on the boats. Piles of fishing nets decorated the pier with their bright greens and blues. Looking down into the water I saw some seaweed floating and then something altogether more surprising next to it. A jellyfish. Brown and white, contracting and relaxing its body to ‘swim’ along. The surrounding water then came to life with even more jellyfish. Some bigger and more even bigger. Unbelievable really. You learn something new everyday. Mr W was chuffed, he has never seen one before. It is moments like that that you can’t prepare for. 

After a quick snack and exploration of the ‘Harry Potter’ store Haggard Alley, we boarded the train for the return journey. The train was quieter now and although absolutely amazing, the excitement of the morning had evaporated some and the smooth journey plus the warm carriages were making its occupants sleepy. Rain dashed itself against the window as we passed lochs, rivers, waterfalls, mountains and waving passerbys. Just to be sat there, in the very storylines that have comforted me for so long was really emotional and I felt the lifetime of dreaming was now complete.

It doesn’t matter if something seems childish, some people may think they are children’s books and movies. But the truth is, they spoke to me then and they still do now. When you live with anxiety you will often return to a subject matter, like a book or a movie as a form of comfort. It is comforting because it is familiar. It warms your heart. It is safe. Loving a story like this stays with you whether you are 7 or 70. So today, my 9 year old self was given the reins and my 34 year old self was so very happy. 

Mr W lets me be those people. It is important. Which is why after reaching Fort William, we raced in our car to the next port of call. 25 miles away from Fort William is a particularly important island for Potter fans. In fact, not too many people know about it. On the eastern side of the loch you will spy a very small, tightly populated with trees island. 

There is no parking per say but should you follow the link (at the bottom) it’ll take you to somewhere you can park which is a very short walk from the ‘viewing’ area. Pack waterproof shoes. Wander through the trees and you’ll see it as soon as you look up. The island is where Dumbledore was buried in the movies. It is THE very island. The movie makers filmed this island and then superimposed it onto a bigger loch for the movie. It is a representation of the man who we all loved as a kid. The man who guided Harry until the very end. I walked through a bog to reach my viewing point and while Mr W looked on I stood looking out in awe. It was a very personal experience. One that not many would understand. But for those that do, please go.

 

Shaking the mud off my boots, it was back to the car for another race against time. We had 40 minutes to reach the Glenfinnan visitor centre car park and head up into the hills behind it. There was no precise time being dictated to us, but miss our window and it would be another long trip back to witness this wonder. We marched for over 30 minutes uphill to get the best vantage point and turned to look back at our trial. It starts in the car parks, follows the river, passes under an arch, turns and sweeps you up a steep muddy hill. 

And there you are. Looking down at the curving Glenfinnan viaduct. You are on top of the world. Literally. When will it come? You sit, stand, pace in excitement. Time ticks by. 5 minutes. 10 minutes. 20 minutes. The amount of people on the surrounding hills grows. They too know what is coming. Out of the silence you hear the sound. And then there she is. With her black engine and burgundy carriages. The ‘Hogwarts Express’. Passing over the viaduct emitting her steam. The whistling is loud enough to hear even up at this height and you trace it, without blinking, along its pathway. The steam is pure white. The carriages gleam. The passengers wave. It snakes its way around the viaduct and disappears into the foothills of the surrounding mountains. 

And you are enthralled. Happy to finally be here. Lifelong dream accomplished. 

As we drove to our hotel, we saw the sunset sending pink clouds over the top of Ben Nevis and I realised magic is everywhere as long as willing to see it.

https://what3words.com/hoods.skirting.spurring

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/15/highlight-11-of-the-nc500-the-hogwarts-express/


https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/14/nc500-day-11-itinerary/

NC500 Day 10 – Fairy Glen, Quiraing and Mealt Falls

Miles: 131. Wildlife: an otter. Camper Vans: 50+. Steps: 9543

Cost of pre-bought food: £3.70 approximately
Extra costs: £18 for dinner and £8 for lunch

As I changed my walking boots for something less bulky and smelly tonight I noticed a stone lodged in the tread. As I went to remove it, I paused, why remove it? Let it stay there as a reminder of this trip. This marvelous, close to ending, trip.

I’m happy to say the itinerary changed a lot today. We started the day four hours later than planned after staying in bed to avoid the rain. We did the itinerary in reverse and cut some stops out due to time and weather restraints. The biggest loss was the walk up the Old Man of Storr. It was gutting but sometimes that’s what happens. You can’t control the weather but you can control how you react to it. We already know we’ll be returning here and have it in mind for then.

So, what did we do today?

Well, avoiding the rain didn’t exactly go to plan. But let’s start at the beginning.

We drove the 90 minutes to the Fairy Glen in Uig, although it took quite a lot longer due to trying to find a deli or cafe for a snack. There is certainly slim pickings on the island and 50% of the places we found were closed for the rest of the year. We eventually found a shop and praised it for having the typical road snacks everyone requires.

Onwards! We made it to the Fairy Glen at midday and were surprised to see how busy the car park was. The Isle of Skye is definitely busier than any other place we have stopped on this tour. We spoke to our accommodation host this evening and he said most tourists go to Edinburgh, Loch Ness and Skye. If they do it all at once or over time I’m not sure but it certainly makes sense with the changes we have seen. For instance the car parks are mostly paved, taken care of and are not free. This was not the case on the mainland. We’ve spent more here on parking than the entire trip so far. It’s mad.

Anyway, we dressed to protect us against the strings winds sweeping the land and started our walk. As we walked up one hill to look down into the glen, you guessed it, the rain came. Prepared we continued on our way until the rain dropped off my nose. Sheltering under trees we waited a while until we called time on it. Disappointed at being thwarted again we head back to the car. While drying off, blue skies soared over us and invited us back to the glen.

The glen itself is exceptionally strange and only from a great height can you really appreciate the landscape. The lumps and bumps that protrude from the earth are fascinating. As the weather started to decline and the routes up into the mounds were really slippery we decided to send up the drone and ‘Marv’ caught a few pictures before the rain returned. Satisfied that we had given it another try we returned to the car once more.



Ten minutes later we parked up for another walk. Rha waterfall is absolutely awe-inspiring. It is really easy to find. A very short walk and just great. It hides behind some cottages and provides such a loud roar that it prevents you from worrying and thinking about life. I should think that if I were to live near a waterfall it would be my escape. Just somewhere to sit and let go of all my anxieties. The noise of the water would drown them out. Perfection.


Happy that the weather had improved and that the walk was short we drove to the next stop. Another car park, another charge, but wow the Quiraing viewing point is seriously amazing. You can literally see where the land has slipped. It’s really difficult to describe. But there are monoliths of rock and earth jutting out at all angles and shapes.

The grass caresses every one of the waves of land and it is truly indescribable. It is also one of the windiest places I have ever been. I had to stand behind Mr W twice just to hide from the onslaught and compose myself. Hands red raw and hoods soggy we clicked away with our cameras and stood in quiet awe. I think when we come back it would be a stop to return to. There is a 3-4 hour hike towards the rocks called The Prison and The Needle. They, like the Old Man of Storr, look absolutely iconic and what is life but to want to be near an icon and gaze upon it at one’s leisure.



When Mr W’s hands regained their feeling we made the next very short drive to Mealt Falls. The car park is free! Wahey! After missing the view of Talisker waterfall crashing down the cliffs yesterday due to the visibility I am ecstatic to say that this cliff dropping waterfall was seen in all its splendor. It’s spray was sent our way via the wind and I did not mind one bit! The crashing water on the rocks from the sea met the water from the falls and it just felt magical. Another scene from a movie. I’m sure I’ll remember what movie at some point but maybe you will know where you have seen something similar!



With a pat on the back for making it to 80% of our visits today, we treated ourselves to our second visit to Portree for their tasty chips and watched love on the harbour as we ate. There was no seal bobbing about today but just watching the water was enough for us. The waters here are tidal but as the wind blew against the surface different shapes appeared and made for great entertaining. The fishing boats all swayed in the moving waters and cormorants dived for their next meal. Someone beyond our line of sight was playing the bagpipes and the with the seagulls calling it made for a very surreal moment. I’m kind of in love with the whole picture.


As we drove back to our accommodation we stopped numerous times to take photos of the sun changing the colours of the mountains, lochs and clouds. Pink hues were replaced with milky blues and mountains became silhouettes against the neighbours. Our journey was extended time after time with every click of the camera. We spoke about how much this trip had meant to both of us. We have two days left in Scotland before our trip descends into England. With everything that has happened with travel due to covid I find myself wondering if we ever would have found our passion for hiking and rural retreats on our own. It has changed so much about our lives for the better.

Stopping again for more photos, I glanced down at the water searching for those yearned for fins and I saw movement in the water. It was too close to shore to be anything big. Lifting my binoculars I watched as a slinky body climbed out and up some rocks. An otter. The first I’ve ever seen in the wild. It’s as if it knew I needed a pick-me-up after my sadness about leaving had left me quiet.

And then he disappeared. Leaving me with my new smile and a beautiful memory.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/13/highlight-10-of-the-nc500-the-quiraing/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/10/nc500-day-10-itinerary/





NC500 Day 9 – Isle of Skye – Fairy Pools and Talisker Bay Beach

Miles: 152.  Wildlife: 19 deer, 1 stag and a harbour seal. Camper Vans: 45+. Steps: 15906.

Cost of pre-bought food: £5.50 approximately

Extra costs: £17 for two cheeseburgers and chips and onions rings in Portree

5:45am our alarm went off. It’s been a while since we’ve been up that early on this trip. After a quick gulp down of some very stodgy porridge we threw out bags in the car and set off into the darkness. It was time to attempt the infamous Bealach Na Bà in the dark and also, it would seem, in the rain. Lots of people would say that the weather is what makes a holiday a holiday and yet it doesn’t really bother me. I’m exceptionally surprised we are nine days into our trip and only really had the odd shower. 

As we climbed the Applecross peninsula we were surprised to find three other motorists on the road and one very brave cyclist. Visibility was extremely poor and at times we were barely doing 17 miles an hour. As we came to the very top of the mountain we planned to stop and yet there was absolutely nothing to see. Until there was. As I gazed out into the void the milky clouds presented the perfect background for two silhouettes. Mummy and baby deer. I squealed in my seat at Mr W. ‘Deer! Deer!’. He paused in his driving as I took as many pictures as possible. As I told him he could carry on I took one last look back and my jaw dropped. ‘STAG!!!’ I shouted. He slammed on the brakes. We had been waiting a week to see one of these beauties. And through the clouds, rain and darkness there he was in all his splendour. Big shaggy coat, huge antlers and a quick careless glance right at me. This was his land. We were only visitors. Despite the rain and wind and cold and darkness I felt lucky to be there right at that moment. With no other intrusive eyes. No people edging closer for a better photo. Just us and him. 

The sky did not exist. We were surrounded by thick clouds and so we continued on our way. It was time to carry on down the most challenging part of the route, the extreme hairpin turns. Although extremely quieter than yesterday, and therefore giving us more time, it was still pretty mind boggling and yet strangely exhilarating to twist and turn the car down the mountain. As we came down the east side of the pass the light around us changed as the sun came up from its horizon haunt. We spotted another 16 deer along the lower foothills of the mountain and they were much more skittish than the three at the top. Maybe the sunlight that had started to flood the space was showing them us and spooking them. 

The drive after the morning safari was pretty uneventful and I was glad of it. Our energy levels have been lacking severely in the last few days. So we took our time and stopped along the way to snack and disengage from the rolling tarmac. 

By 8:30am we were crossing the Skye Bridge into the Isle of Skye. Energy levels boosted by our excitement of visiting this place buzzed to the surface. 

Our first stop was at Coo View point, a particularly pretty lookout on the mountains of Skye. By the roadside were a few Highlands Coos. With their Reddy brown shaggy coats, long curving horns and exceptionally big, wet noses they are among some of the most adorable animals in abundance in Scotland. I have begun calling out ‘Cooooo’ everytime we pass them in the fields. They, like the stag, give you an eye and then carry on with what they’re doing. You are not a part of their world. You are the ones who are fascinated. 

The wind whipped around the car as we approached our next stop at Sligachan Bridge. One of the top sites to see in Skye I was looking forward to seeing it in person. And yet the most fascinating moment of our visit was seeing 10-12 people placing their faces in the water flowing beneath the bridge while a man counted to 7 and the surrounding crowds clapped. Mr W and I took one look at each other and both had the same bemused and confused look. After a quick Google I found that the reason people do this act is for eternal beauty. As Mr W pointed out, if we attempted it, we wouldn’t have the energy to sit back up and we walked away laughing. 

We were making good timing on the plans today and had an hour or so extra time to play with. We made the short drive to Glenbrittle to visit the famous Fairy Pools. Even at 10:30am this place was busy! We have become so accustomed to quiet walks while in Scotland that we were quite taken back by the amount of people around us. We also concluded that not many of the visitors were Scottish. The friendliness of the past week had all but disappeared. Not very many hellos or shows of politeness at all. It was a shame. 

We looked down to the pools from the car park and strapped on our boots. This was a lengthy walk. The descent down to the first bridge on the walk was simple enough and then the fun began. Large rocks made the walk up and around the pools slightly more challenging and after what I can only guess as a very busy summer the viewing areas around the pools were exceptionally muddy. However, it felt very relaxed to clamber over rocks and boulders while walking along the river. Even though we were steadily climbing up the mountain with every step it was a very gradual ascent and not too taxing. 

The fairy pools themselves are really and truly very pretty. They zig zag their way down the vast expanse of mountainside and have carved their way mystically through the rock. Imagine them like a curving staircase which at every other step has the most beautiful waterfall, or in some cases twin/triplet waterfalls.

Beneath the waterfalls, sculpted pools of rock in hues of blue and green greet the splashing liquid from above and somehow, despite the surrounding peat fields and flora and fauna, the water is absolutely crystal clear. The entire river itself is also just as clear. The rocks that have long been left behind by the cutting water are jagged and gnarly and yet also smooth in places. They are white and grey and darkest black and then green, blue and orange. Everything here is vying for your attention and as you notice one beauty another snaps your head in the opposite direction. 

As we neared the top of the pools more water feel from above. Only this time it was the clouds that sent it our way. Zipping up our coats and drawing up our hoods around our necks we persisted in our mission. It is a truly mesmerising place. Each pool, fall and twist and turn is different. They are stunning. 

7000+ steps later and one discarded layer of clothing, we shoved a snack in our gobs and turned towards our next walk. This one, I had waited for for oh such a long time. You may have noticed I have a slight, wee, tiny obsession with waterfalls and yet this one was going to be entirely new in its surroundings. Talisker Bay Beach is home to a supreme of the waterfall world. It crashes down the cliffside from the river Allt Mheididh and in high winds can send its spray down onto the beach itself. 

We saw… absolutely none of this. Disaster struck in the form of more rain on our approach to the beach and despite forcing our limbs to carry on despite their fatigue the sun god’s were not willing to award us with the view of the Talisker waterfall. I could have stood on that beach and screamed and yet with water soaking through my clothings, rain drenching my face and Mr W looking like he’d run into the sea fully clothed, I couldn’t help but laugh. The sheep around us baa’d and the wind howled as it pushed literal waves of rain across the scene before us. The adventure was this. 

Tonight we have sat and made peace with the fact that tomorrow may change slightly due to the weather and despite the minor disappointment we are well aware of our limitations and the fact that one day we’ll be back to complete what is already a pretty amazing trip. Until then, we get a lay in and a cup of tea in bed. It turns out what makes a holiday is you and what you love doing with the person who makes you laugh every day. 

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/08/nc500-day-9-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/09/highlight-9-of-the-nc500-the-fairy-pools/

NC500 Day 8 – Red Point Beach, Victoria Falls and the Bealach Na Bà

Miles: 95. Wildlife: 14 deer and a heron. Camper Vans: 30+. Steps: 5808.

Cost of pre-bought food: £8.40 approximately
Extra costs: nothing

Waking up the night after you were poorly is never going to be pleasant and Scotland did not help with its grey skies this morning. Arriving at the accommodation in the rain last night and waking up to billowing clouds this morning was a total mood killer. We had a simple breakfast of toast at our accommodation and then made for the road. Today would be better. I’m just stubborn that way. 

As the day around us woke up, we passed something I feel like I have only seen in a movie before. Loch Bad na-Achlaise in Gairloch acted like a mirror showcasing the mountain behind it and the morning sky. Not a single ripple marked its surface and it was utterly mesmerising to behold. Its glassy surface was untouched by the waking day.  

We drove from Aultbea to Red Point beach where we found ourselves rather uninspired by the lack of redness in the sand. After all this was the draw and it fell rather flat. In fact we spent more time talking to the farmer’s cows than looking at the disappointing beach.

We dragged our tired bodies up to the viewpoint at the top of the sand dune (you see, what exhausted body doesn’t need an early morning walk up the side of a deep, tilted carpet of sand) and through the early morning haze we saw the Isle of Skye. Now, we actually saw it from the road, but either way, it was amazing seeing it before we head there tomorrow. Mr W pointed out that the beach itself was not as good as Achmelvich yesterday and I said you simply couldn’t compare the two. This beach was more about the different colour of the sand and how peculiar it was, yesterday was about pure luxury and the shock factor of how somewhere so picture postcard perfect could be in the UK.

The cows were bloody cute by the way. Although no amount of hellos could tempt them for a big ol pat on the head. 

Determined, we reshuffled our belongings in the car to try and create some order and then pursued the day ahead. As we approached our next stop, the early grey clouds lifted and blue skies pushed the white fluffy clouds around above us. The sun was burning hot and I couldn’t help but feel myself come to life. How is it that we prepared for monsoons and were given this?

Victoria Falls is one of the first places that we have visited on the west side of the highlands that has been signposted. The walk is very short from the car park and on a level path. Excellent news for the tired traveller. You are greeted by a large wooden viewpoint that gives you the most spectacular vantage point for the falls across the gorge. This place was busy! People coming up, snapping their cameras and leaving. It prompted me to remind myself to take in a moment rather than just capture it on film. It’s important to be able to look back at the pictures you take and remember just why you thought it was prudent to take the shot in the first place. Was it amazing? Was it beautiful? What did you enjoy about it? I like to think by writing these pieces and taking my photos I am creating something not just for the passing reader but for me to look back on and remember all these wonderful moments. Victoria Falls did not disappoint and I pushed my aches and pains to the back of my mind to hike up the hill and look down on the falls from above. They are loud and impressive. Just as they should be. Behind the falls are large sloping rocks where a slim, wide curtain of water flows freely. It was like a draping of silver that had caught the light. Transfixing.

Beyond the falls all 13 miles of Loch Maree stretched back to the horizon and matched the sky with its light blue surface. What a beautiful place to take a moment to yourself.

After our short visit to Victoria falls, we paused at the Glen Docherty viewpoint and then made the very journey we had been waiting for for so long. 

The Bealach Na Bà is a single track road that winds its way through the Applecross Peninsula. It reaches a height of over 2000ft and carries a fair share of warnings for new drivers and larger vehicles. It is the steepest ascending road in the UK and was absolutely thrilling. The tight hairpin turns were some of the only parts that had barriers where all others just used the safety of prayer and perfect steering. At the very top of the pass you can park and jump out of the car to shake off the adrenalin (or the poop out of your pants) and enjoy the tremendous view over the mountain to the Isle of Skye. Everyone who was emerging from their cars was smiling and laughing about the journey they had just taken. It was a very happy place. 

I’m starting to realise that this IS a happy place. 90% of the people you pass say hello. We’ve stopped and talked to so many new people and it’s been so easy to just chit chat. It’s clear to see why this country deserves its place on the must-see travel lists. Will we come back? Absolutely. We just need time to recover from this visit first!   

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/01/20/nc500-day-8-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/10/highlight-8-of-the-nc500-hartfield-house-hostel/

NC500 Day 7: Clashnessie Falls, Achmelvich Bay and Corrieshalloch Gorge

Miles: 139. Wildlife: 5 deer and two herons. Camper Vans: 30+. Steps: 12752.

Cost of pre-bought food: £2.20 approximately
Extra costs: £51

I can’t believe it’s day seven already. We’ve been on our tour for seven whole days. That is insane.

We had a chance to have some oats for breakfast today at an actual table in our accommodation. Was a much needed change from sitting on a bed.

Our first stop today was an hour north and along a road we travelled yesterday. We saw rain clouds setting in over Loch Broom and counted ourselves lucky that the trip so far has seen very little rain.

The landscape here is just out of this world. The small winding rivers cut their way through the fern strewn landscapes and up in the mountains small spouts of water force their way down the rock face. Everything is competing for attention. The boulders with their slate grey faces glimmer with dew. The moss springs up and says hello in the often harshest of exposures. Rivers bubble. Lochs hold secrets within their black waters. And there we are navigating our way through these monoliths of nature.



Clashnessie Falls is in a very small village near Clachtoll. There is lots of space for parking opposite the beach and it is not a long walk along the main road until you come to a sign for the falls. My advice is to walk slightly further up the road and slip around the gate on the left. This will save you one scramble over the big rocks.

There is a path that leads up and over the small hills until you reach the river. There are two options. Follow the fence line. Or cross the river on the stepping stones and follow the path that way. We chose the fence line path. After reading lots of advice online, I was expecting a muddy but simple walk. This unfortunately was anything but. The right hand route along the fence was extremely boggy with rocks that were extremely unsteady in the peat field. We wanted to push on so badly, as you can see the falls ahead of you and whilst they are simply spectacular the walk was just proving too much. There comes a time when your enjoyment has to come first and this was a time to stop and adjust our expectations. Mr W as ever was supportive when my disappointment flooded into my face. I guess sometimes you can’t always trust the advice online. I hope when we return to Scotland in a few years that the ground around the river has dried slightly and we can attempt the walk again. The falls looked spectacular and oh so tempting indeed. The stepping stones across the river were really quite dangerous and as we carry quite a bit of photography equipment with us it simply was not worth the risk. I also like the use of my ankles.



Disappointed but determined we set off for Achmelvich Bay. Now this was a time for something new entirely. Wild swimming! Parking in the free/donation welcome car park was easy enough and had lots of spaces. We loaded up our bags and made the very short walk to the bay. The sand here is pure white. It could have been the Maldives and if it wasn’t for the nip in the wind I could have sworn we were back on our Honeymoon. The water had pockets of navy blue and bright turquoise. The sun lit up the waters to such a degree that there was only one thing we could do. Jump straight in.

With fear causing some delays in our movements but the draw of the waters inevitably proving too strong we zipped up our wetsuits and got stuck in. And would you believe it the sun disappeared and with it the pockets of turquoise. The sand under foot was as soft as cotton. There was very little seaweed not pebbles to contend with. As I stepped into the water I felt content that it didn’t seem too cold at all. The water itself is very shallow and has no rocks for you to lose your footing. And then it got very cold very quickly. Up to my hips, I watched Mr W go for it and take the leap underwater. He is one brave man. I got in the water up to my shoulders and started to feel okay. That is until I realised I couldn’t actually feel my feet anymore. It is honestly exhilarating. And I can now say I have swam in the North Atlantic Ocean. How special is that!



I came out of the water long enough to let the sun warm my skin and got talking to a lady who lived nearby. Her name was Sheona and she had purposely walked over to commend us for taking the plunge. She said the water was at 10°! And yet it’s the warmest it will ever get. So despite the fact it’s the coldest I have ever felt it’s still not the norm up here. Haha.

Sitting here now I remember feeling extremely self conscious in something as tight as a wetsuit and yet as soon as that water hit my body my cares drifted away. When I came out of the water and stood in the sun like a basking penguin I unrolled the suit from my shoulders and brought it down to my waist and stood there with my bralet on. That’s how I stood as I talked to the stranger. And I didn’t care. I just felt like me.

Mr W came out of the water and after a warm up from the sun I just had to go back in. This visit was slightly longer and I had to start listening to my body about the temperature. It was getting hard to make my limbs do what they were told.

We helped each other out of our wetsuits, laid them on a large rock in the sun and took our time changing and enjoying the beautiful scene. We managed to spend way more time than planned just enjoying ourselves and as we walked back over the sand dunes I thanked the beach for a truly wonderful morning.

Needing sustenance we bought pies at the Lochinver Larder and grabbed hot drinks at Sovi’s coffee. As we got back in the car, drinks in hand, the heavens opened and we were treated to our first Scottish downpour. Not bad for a whole week eh?



Soon enough we drove out the other side of the rain clouds and arrived into Ullapool. It was time to treat Mr W, he loves seafood and I had heard of a place that sells it as fresh as it comes. The Seafood Shack in Ullapool had at least 7 items on the menu and we had the Haddock. The space around the ‘shack’ has a great vibe, with big wooden seating areas and a sail sun shade it is really welcoming. The food itself was absolutely delicious and sitting in the sun with my husband was one of the biggest highlights of this trip. He also bought us a huge tartan sherpa blanket. What’s a girl to do but be madly in love!



Re-energised but still slowly fading we are now both exceptionally glad that our final visit of the day was relatively short. Corrieshalloch Gorge National Park is 20 minutes from Ullapool and is really well signposted, something that I find the west coast of Scotland sometimes lacks. The parking was free but only because the machine was broken so keep this in mind should you visit. After a fairly easy downhill hairpin walk we came across the bridge across the gorge. With only a six person capacity and a slight sway as you walk it all adds to the feeling of danger. After all, the gorge is 60 metres deep. The waterfall that crashes down beneath you is loud and extremely ferocious. Mr W is not a fan at all but I could not resist leaning right over and tracing the waters down the gorge to the pools below. What a marvel!

Continuing on over the bridge and down the path we came to the observation deck that overhangs the void. It gives you the most impressive view of the waterfall, bridge and gorge itself. With its metal grate it again is not for the faint hearted but is irresistible all the same. What’s life without a little intrigue!



Even though we are half way through our trip I still haven’t really understood the magnitude of this place. It is unapologetic in its ‘get stuck in’ attitude and yet there is beauty in its very raw rural way.

Sitting here close to exhaustion I find myself eager to wake up tomorrow and see what else will be thrown at us.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/01/17/highlight-seven-of-the-nc500-paradise/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/01/15/nc500-day-7-itinerary/

NC500 Day 6 – Smoo Cave, Wailing Widow Falls and Ardvreck Castle

Miles: 116. Wildlife: nil. Camper Vans: 20+. Steps: 8300.

Cost of pre-bought food: £3.80 approximately

Extra costs: £4

Today we changed our plans slightly due to the weather. With a 10 mile hike ahead of us in the pouring rain we opted to have a later start than originally planned. And I can tell you it was well worth the change. 

We left our accommodation at 8am and said goodbye to the eastern part of Scotland. This part of the trip was set to be more challenging on the road and rather more mountainous. The road here is single track with alot of passing places to help out. It certainly takes some getting used to but it really is easy enough. 

Our route took us anti-clockwise along the northern coast of Scotland from Bettyhill and I started to really understand why people do this route. As we drove down from Coldbackie we were introduced with the Kyle of Tongue. What an absolutely breathtaking place. Having so many passing places on the road means there are very few parking places, or laybys, to get out in and take photos. So on the approach to the bridge at the kyle, after seeing a parking area, we did not hesitate to pool over. It is an astonishing place with mountains surrounding the water, the still waters reflecting the sky and a serene sense of calm everywhere you turn to look. We took our time to really drink in the scene. I do love to find gems like this alongside fulfilling plans. This is what I’m enjoying about road trips: you will see things you never would have thought were anything special on a map. 

We continued our way through the mountains. It is hard to put into words just how phenomenal the route up this way is. The colours of the heathers. The ferns. The tiny streams and rivers that wind their way around the foothills. The cap-like clouds that pass over the mountain tops. Every turn feels like a picture perfect moment. After what felt like a very long and beautiful drive we arrived at Smoo Cave. 

This was one of the places that everyone we have spoken to and every review online has said is a must see. It was for that reason I felt completely shocked at the size of the car park. It barely held 10 cars. There are only 100 or so steps down to the cave from the car park and although they are rather large steps there is a sturdy handrail. The view you get out to sea is fabulous and as you walk across the bridge it’s definitely easy to see why this place is so loved. The large cave was made by the sea but there is a smaller inner cave which has been punched through from outside by a waterfall. The waterfall is found at the end of a wooden walkway and is just fantastic. I do think my obsession with waterfalls is getting out of hand. The water falls into a large pool and then moves into a small river out of the cave. It is absolutely fascinating. The walls are decorated with vivid green mosses and algae which change their colours and depth with every step you take. The only cave in the UK with both types of erosion and the largest of its kind in this country too. Now you know something completely pointless to know, until, maybe, it comes up on a quiz show. Just give me 10% of your winnings! 

Now, I’m not going to shout this too loud, but something I love about being in the country is just how friendly people are. One of the best things I’ve seen up here are the honesty boxes. At our accommodation last night there was an honesty caravan! Filled with souvenirs and dried food items. Today at Smoo cave was an honesty box filled with knitwear items. It was honestly adorable and I may have bought a hat… a lovely green one.   

With my new purchase in hand, we took the short drive up to Durness beach. OH. My. Gah. It is stunning. Blinking through the wind I had to remind myself that I was indeed in the UK and that the sand actually was white. The water too was out of this world. Where white sand ended, turquoise water started. In Scotland. In the UK. Just… wow!

Tearing ourselves away from the temptation to swim (why did we do that) we continued on our journey and left northern Scotland behind entirely. Our route took us down the western edge of the coast and towards Scourie. Our very brief next stop appeared out of practically nowhere and even though it was a tick on the ol’ list. It really was impressive. The Kylesku bridge stretches across Loch a’ Chàirn Bhàin and pausing in the car park before it we had the most amazing view of the Quinag mountain range. Mr W was very happy with the sun poking its head out behind the range and lighting up the clouds lazily loping their way over the top. Everyone has their quirks eh.  

Something I am noticing a lot about Scotland is the places you want to find often only have a postcode. The next place was no different, all the guides online will tell you the postcode or that it is found by a layby on a particular road. That is why when I come to adjust my itinerary before I share them with you, I will be using the ‘what 3 words’ method to help you find places much easier. 

Wailing Widow Falls is hidden from the road and can be approached from the bottom or the top. We parked at the top deciding it would be a different approach for us to stand at the top of the falls. And here, hilarity ensued. I put on my walking boots because I’m just crap without them, Mr W left his trainers on. All the guides say it is a short 300 yards to the viewpoint. Superb. Just 20 yards or so into the walk we were presented with boggy pathways. Beyond that were large sloping rocks and even more soggy situations. The ground kept getting wetter and wetter as we tried to navigate our way across. Usually there is a footfall made pathway to follow but it looked as if everyone that had come before us and opted to choose their own path to avoid the water. By following footsteps we were met with deep puddles of thick mud and it was hard to find where to walk. After much negotiating, we found the edge of the gorge and saw the very top of the waterfall. It was too unstable and muddy at the edge to get a decent look and so we decided to return to the car. The waterfall itself crashes down and out of the relatively small Loch na Gainmhich. Something new entirely for our eyes to gaze upon. But this was something that was not meant to be. 

On our return to the car, Mr W and I took separate paths as best suited to our shoes. With lots of promises from him, I felt reassured that the ground wouldn’t swallow me up and took the waterlogged route many a time. He on the other hand was finding the paths harder due to his footwear. I remember stepping over a large boggy spot and turning to see how he was getting on. He was slightly bent over and at an odd angle. He was reaching for the ground while keeping one leg lifted. Then he plucked something out of the ground. Not off of the ground. OUT of it. His shoe. He looked up at me smiling. The bog had swallowed his trainer while we kept on moving. And I could not stop laughing. He decided it would be best to keep the trainer off and just replace the socks in the car. We were still a way from being dry and yet every step he took squelched and turned the wool to a very soggy counterpart. He jumped puddles, leapt across mud and generally made good old ‘clean’ fun of the situation. I on the other hand got a stitch from laughing so much and I swear to god I nearly wet myself.  

We advised other people who had parked near us of the situation and went on our merry soggy way. We spent our final visit of the day at Ardvreck Castle. It is in a very sorry state and is all but collapsed. However it was a pretty and short walk that ended the day nicely. There are many houses and outbuildings in the Highlands that are in a similar way and even though I’m sure it would be great to see them restored, there is something very alluring when they are in this condition. 

Tomorrow is another big day. As I sit here writing this to send out into the void, my eyes are drooping, the shower is waiting and before I know it, the next adventure will begin!

Highlight six of the NC500 – The weakness in me
NC500 Day 6 – Itinerary