Tag: nc500 Scotland

NC500 Day 10 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series.

Let’s crack on shall we, this is the itinerary for Day 10 on our NC500 tour of Scotland.

Our day changed dramatically due to the weather. So I’m going to give you our planned itinerary and you’ll be able to gain all information and thoughts about what we actually experienced here and on my summary of the day in the blogs linked below. Up until we arrived in Skye we had been very smug about how kind the weather had been to us and then… well, the waterfalls we had seen so far seemed to open above us. 

Today’s plans are not for the faint hearted. It is a very packed and strenuous day with two big hikes in it. This may seem too much but it will open up all of Skye to you. The big attractions are all there for you to see and love. Enjoy!

A little advice on this one. You will want to check your sunrise/set times on this one. The activities at the beginning and end rely on seeing the sun on the horizon. I think it would create the most amazing views.

Start your morning in the dark and drive up to the Old Man of Storr. This is a hike we unluckily didn’t venture on. We sat in the car park for a long time determining whether we should attempt it as the day’s hours ticked on. We decided it wasn’t the timing we had planned and therefore left it to our return trip. I advise making this your first point of call and parking up before sunrise to guarantee a space in the very busy car park and to also see some of the most spectacular views over the Applecross Peninsula on the mainland when the sun makes its appearance. The car park charges £2 for 2 hours and there are toilets on site. Below are some pretty clear instructions to help you make this walk safely and without too much confusion. Snacks will be needed I am sure. 

‘The path starts through the gate near the back of the car park.The wide path winds uphill through an area intended to regenerate with native woodland. Keep ahead/slightly right when the path forks although it doesn’t really matter as both join up later. The path passes through two gates to eventually reach the open moor with the spectacular cliffs of the Storr up ahead. The Old Man can be difficult to pick out from the cliffs behind from this point. Continue up the wide footpath. As more height is gained, look out for a clear path branching left; take this turning. The path contours a little before ascending, swinging right to climb up to the left of the Old Man. The next section of walk has some danger from rockfall – it should certainly be avoided after heavy rains. Follow a path that descends to pass around the back of the Old Man; the path is clear but crosses a short section of fallen rocks. This area – with towering cliffs and pinnacles all around – is known as the Sanctuary. Beyond the Old Man stands the Needle Rock – also known as the Cathedral, which has a window right through it near the top. Continue towards this, but turn right before reaching it to begin the descent. There are several variant paths at first but all soon join as the descent continues, passing well below the east side of the Old Man. Once back on the main path, follow it down to eventually retrace your steps back onto the made path through the felled area. Further down, you can turn right at the fork to follow an alternative, equally well made path for the descent section. This weaves about and passes a small lochan before rejoining the outward route. Continue down to return to the car park.’

Sounds impressive right? Even from the car park the view of the Old Man of Storr is impressive and should you get to experience this walk please let me know how it is. Please?

Make sure you have a big drink to replace all that expended energy. 

The next stop is really easy so don’t worry about those achy legs. The car park is free (as of this blog) and it’s quite literally a minute’s walk away from the cliff’s edge. As mentioned in the previous days, itinerary sites on Isle of Skye are considerably busier than the mainland and you may therefore have a long wait for an up close photo opportunity. Be patient, it is absolutely worth it!

Unfortunately we didn’t go on the next visit. It is supposed to be great with actual dinosaur prints that aren’t roped off so you can get up close and personal. I know you are down at the water’s edge so take waterproof clothing and enjoy! Don’t linger too long, you have lots more to see and the next stop is the busiest point on today’s itinerary. 

The Quiraing viewpoint is absolutely breathtaking. The smallest amount you’ll pay at the car park is £3 but you do get 3 hours. The car park is bigger than most on the island and although busy you won’t find yourself waiting long for a space to become vacant. On site there is a food van selling hot dishes to warm you up after the strong winds found here. You can spend anywhere between 20 minutes to 2 hours here. There is a hike which looked absolutely incredible from the viewpoint and if the weather had been kinder we would have definitely given it a go. Take note of the signposted areas to prevent you from quite literally slipping down to meet the land below. Wrap up warm!

Next, take the very scenic drive to Rha waterfall. You will find the road here very steep in places and much of it is single track so act as the locals do and be kind and courteous. It becomes second nature after travelling so much of the NC500 to accept the to and fro of the single track road however due to the influx of day tourists you may find some impatience forming. Remind yourself it is the journey not the destination and you’ll be fine. 

I’ve given you two sets of details (both What3Words) to find Rha waterfall. One for the parking, which is free, and one for the gate which opens onto the short walk to the falls. This is a very short but rewarding walk. It is much less busy than other sites on the island and you’ll find yourself lucky to find some peace and quiet in this beautiful spot.  

We found the next spot quite difficult to find and therefore I’ve given you another set of What3Words instructions. In most cases you will be given a postcode to find sites in Scotland. This covers a vast amount of space and with very little SatNav signal and/or phone signal it can become quite difficult to find places. I advise downloading the W3W app and using it offline as much as possible. The car park at the Fairy Glen in Uig is brand new and charges £2 for 2 hours. Which I think is a generous amount of time for this site. It is fairly straightforward walking around the base of these mounds. Take care if you wish to take a birds eye view, rain causes very slippery conditions and there are some fairly steep sections. As we arrived in the rain I know we didn’t fully appreciate this site which is a damn shame.

Now, the next and last stop of the day is a biggie. It’s one of the big reasons we will return to the Isle of Skye as we also missed this walk due to the weather. Neist Point Lighthouse is a 2 hour hike to the coastal area of northern Skye. There have been sightings of whales from here and in my opinion as a sunset chaser, it will be a wonderful end to a full but exceptional day. As we didn’t accomplish this walk I have given you the information below for the walk. I would like to think that a well trodden path would be easy to see but you never know!

‘Begin by following the path through the gate, which if locked can be easily walked round. Almost immediately turn left on the path, which then swings right to ease the descent to the headland far below. There is a metal handrail for most of the descent. Continue along the now level path. It is possible to detour to the right to visit the edge of the cliffs, overlooking the great prow of An t-Aigeach, the dramatic upstanding crag half way out on the headland. To the left are great views to the impressive cliffs of Waterstein Head and the Hoe, the second highest on Skye. At the highest point of the constructed path, a grassy path heads off to the right – this is an optional detour to the top of An t-Aigeach. If you decide to visit the top, take great care near the cliff edge, and retrace your steps back to the main path. As the corner is rounded the lighthouse comes into view for the first time. Continue along the path towards the lighthouse and the former keepers’ cottages. From the path junction, you can turn left along a made path to reach the crane and crane. It is also worth detouring across rougher pathless ground beyond the lighthouse complex to reach the furthest point. The return route is back the same way. It is worth detouring to the left from the path before it heads round An t-Aigeach to visit the cliff edge; from here you can watch seabirds in season but take care as the edge is, of course, unprotected.’

And there you have it. The top sites of the Isle of Skye in one day. I hope it serves you well. You deserve a big dinner and drink to toast the day. 

Staying on the Isle of Skye means you need to just return to your accommodation and relax. Tomorrow we return to the mainland. Our journey draws to its conclusion. But for now, chill.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/13/highlight-10-of-the-nc500-the-quiraing/

NC500 Day 9 – Itinerary
NC500 Day 10 – Fairy Glen, Quiraing and Mealt Falls

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/13/highlight-10-of-the-nc500-the-quiraing/

Highlight three of the NC500 – The journey upstream

This is my highlight from Day 3 of our recent trip to Scotland to drive the NC500 route.

The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself.

I will never forget sitting at Chanonry Point with my binoculars in hand awaiting a dolphin sighting while I occasionally glanced at the live stream of our Queens funeral on my phone. Having paid my respects at Balmoral a day or two before, I felt especially blessed again to be joining the millions around the UK and indeed the globe who had tuned in to say their final goodbyes. Having not known what the signal would be like on our route it was a guessing game at what would happen. And yet there we were participating. I don’t think it would feel right to call it the highlight of the day. However the word privilege seems apt and I include it here to remind myself that in no way did I think I would be sat on a Scottish beach watching our Queen’s funeral on my phone and yet it is a part of my story now. It’s unusual. It’s definitely one of a kind. And yet it felt peaceful and personal. In a way, it’s how a funeral should be. Each ‘attendee’ finds their own moment to remember and reflect.

Later that day we arrived at Rogie Falls. It is a vast series of waterfalls on the Black Water, a river in Ross-Shire. You are given the ultimate front and centre view from the suspension bridge that crosses the wide gorge.

The bridge jumps up and down as people walk across it and I felt the weight go into my legs to steady myself. I remember thinking that my legs would feel the pain of this later. It is similar to when you keep yourself upright on a boat that is rolling over the incoming waves. Your muscles tense and it is as if your brainpower is reserved just for that very need.

I am now only realising how patient I can be. That is when I know a reward is quite likely. At Chanonry Point, there have been many, many dolphin sightings. It is famous for them. And yet on our visit there were none. It is a shame but nature requires patience and understanding. Sometimes these things differ in their quantities based on focus and time allowances. If the opportunity arises again for us to be back in that part of the world maybe I will allow us more time to sit and watch the waters for those beautiful fins. Who knows.

At Rogie Falls however my patience was rewarded tenfold. In the space of 90 minutes we saw over 10 salmon leaping out of the bubbling water trying to head upstream. Each fish that appeared was met with gasps, smiles, whoops and ‘ooo’s’. It was sheer fascination that kept my legs fixed into place while my eyes darted between each cascading column of water to spy the next attempt-ee. The very fact is, the distance from the surface of the pools the salmon were jumping from to the top of the waterfall was at least 10 foot. Mr W and I, and everyone around us, knew that those little salmon would never make it to the waters above and yet there they were. Jumping, leaping, swimming as fast as they could just to try, try, try again!

Just below the suspension (literal in two ways) bridge there is something called a man-made salmon ladder. It is a series of very short waterfalls that curve their way upstream in a much easier and salmon friendlier way. Several people next to me were watching fish attempt this way up stream with much better success. And yet my eyes were transfixed on the harder route. I couldn’t help but think about their motives and why they weren’t using the ladder. Did they not know? How long would they keep trying? How does the instinct to do this just ‘happen’?

It makes me think about their journey and how fraught with danger and stress it is. Yet they continue on. It’s something to take on board, don’t you think?

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/10/nc500-day-3-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/09/19/nc500-day-three-reelig-glen-chanonry-point-and-rogie-falls/

Highlight two of the NC500 – A tall observation

This is my highlight from Day 2 of our recent trip to Scotland to drive the NC500 route. 

The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself. 

Plodda falls is 46 metres high. It plunges over the rockface fast and loud. From below you are ‘misted’ with its waters on a breezy day as you gaze around at the wondrous greenery it has breathed into life. The space here is dominated by rock. Everywhere you look there are jagged boulders, walls of stone and sharp boulders in the river bed. The tall Douglas firs are old. So old their roots are over a foot thick in places and have woven their way around rocks that have long ditched the soil that once encased them. This is an old part of the Glen Affric National Park. There are wooden railings to keep you from plunging down the steep banks of the gorge but other than that this place feels unkempt and stolen back by nature itself. 

Above the waterfalls on the fir-needle strewn trail you can hear the mammoth cascade of water and yet you can’t see it. Ahead of you there is a different kind of path. It is structured and although wooden it is man-made and almost out of place. As you tread the boards of this pathway, you hear the water moving below you as the wood rises up around you, fencing you in and guiding you onwards. At the end of this amazing observation deck you find yourself hovering over the very falls themselves. The water is white with its fast movement. It rains down, unknowing of its future path. The river falls away below you and you can feel the fear of perhaps crashing down with them. 

I, for one, am not bothered by such things. Mr W on the other hand is not a fan. He can never really decide whether it’s the fear of heights, falling or something else entirely that bothers him. If he is on a hill or a steep gorge he is fine. There is something about movement while at a height that just ‘gets’ to him. He hated the London Eye when we went on it back in the day and yet that is the slowest moving thing on this planet. Maybe it is a case of looking at movement below from a great height that puts the whole situation into perspective?

Either way, I am fine with it. He is not. And I find it absolutely hysterical. The barrier of the observation deck is at least 4 feet high and it would be insanely hard to fall from it. I reckon that was the plan eh? And yet leaning over, head, neck, shoulder, arms and upper torso is thrilling. It is like you are on the bow of a great ship plunging over Niagara Falls. Yet, this is significantly smaller than Niagara, but then you are not a ship. You are a 5ft5” woman who is cackling in sheer delight at the height and noise you are experiencing. There is sunlight streaming from the afternoon sky and your body is suspended on land and in the air. 

The noise drowns out every other thought in your body. You are in Scotland. You are inside the water. You are nowhere and everywhere. You are taking the leap over the falls. Whooshing down into the pools below. You are above. You are dry. You are alive. 

The trees hear you gasp and laugh. Your husband is beside you as you experience nature’s beautiful self. It is a magical moment. It is as funny as it is not. No one else will understand and that is okay. You snap a very quick photo as he grips the barrier with a white knuckled fist. The sun is in your eyes. There is laughter and love. 

It is these moments that remind you why travelling is so important to you. 

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/08/nc500-day-2-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/09/18/nc500-day-2-bruar-loch-ness-and-plodda-falls/

NC500 Day 2 – Itinerary

Hello and welcome back to the Scotland itinerary series. 

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

As you may have seen from the itinerary from Day 1 (link below) we started our trip on the eastside of Scotland which is quite unusual as it approaches the NC500 in an anticlockwise manner. Most tips tell you to combat the route in a clockwise form, however as we had plans in Edinburgh and we had plans to finish in the Lake District this worked better for us. Mr W had also heard a tidbit about travelling anti-clockwise too. In all honesty, everything I heard prior to our trip suggested that the east coast of Scotland is vastly different to the western side. In a way I would agree, they are very different. However, in the opinions I read it became quite obvious that people favour the west coast of the Highlands which is a shame. The east has so much to offer and I found it was just the best build up to the rest of the journey. It gradually envelops you into the route. The villages are pretty and the coastline is easier to navigate on foot. 

So without much ado, let’s continue with the itinerary. This was one of the easiest days in terms of navigation.

Day 2 was such a beautiful day filled with wonderful activities to help you stretch those legs as you introduce yourself to Scotland.

We ate in our hotel room in order to save time and money. We used our pre-packed oats and our hotel had a kettle so this really helped us. 

Start your day as early as sunlight allows. The Old PackHorse Bridge needs at least the beginnings of sunlight to fully appreciate. We made sure to get here mega early so we were alone and there was just one other vehicle in the car park when we arrived. The walk to the bridge is along the main road in the town of Carrbridge. It was very easy and yet packed a punch for those early morning thrills. To get the best view of the bridge itself there is a wooden staircase just a few metres off of the current bridge. Please take care using these stairs, they can be extremely wet. 

From here we journeyed to the House of Bruar which stands in front of the pathway to the Falls of Bruar. Parking is free. There is much advice online to use the toilets in this establishment as they are rumoured to be the ‘poshest’ toilets in the highlands. I cannot confirm or deny this fact as we were quick to leave after spending a lot more time on the hike than we originally planned. There is advice online about the walk itself. It says to turn left as you approach the first bridge on this walk. One thing I can advise to the unsteady on their feet is to cross the bridge and take the walk up the hill on the right hand side of the river. It is a steep walk which I for one could only tackle uphill. If I were presented with that steepness on the descent I would not have been happy. We did the loop walk anticlockwise in its entirety and still got to see everything. The descent on the left hand side had long stretches of large rocks embedded in dryer earth to walk down. This is something for you to consider as you approach this walk. 

Something I do wish we had done is visit the House of Bruar which is a huge complex of shops with clothing, trinkets and even plants. It looked so decadent and by the time we had returned from the falls it was really filling up. Maybe add an hour onto your day and take time to look around? I also spied a coffee area which would be a welcome treat after your walk!

Having spent so long at the falls, we head straight to Clansman Harbour, Inverness for our Loch Ness Cruise. Our cruise time was at 2pm. There are other times for the cruises so you could potentially get a cruise at 4pm if this suits you better. We went with the 50 minute Clansman cruise which was perfect for us. If we had had the time, we would have approached Inverness via Fort Augustus to give us the perfect introduction to Loch Ness. By doing this you will drive from Fort Augustus up the left hand side of the Loch to Canmans Harbour and be able to peek out at the water as you go. 

Not usually one to jump on the typical tourism bandwagon the cruise was a welcome relief from walking and driving. When you think of Inverness and Scotland in particular you, or maybe just I, always think of Nessie. So I just had to include this on our trip. It was relatively cheap and, as expected, packed with tourists. We had no trouble getting a seat. The only trouble was the grey sky and the condensation on the inside of the windows. It meant we didn’t see much of the Loch itself and as it is a looping cruise, you see the same bits out and inwards. Would I do it again? No. Am I glad we did it? Yes. It feels like a rite of passage for sure. I have linked the website below for you to book your tickets. The car park for the harbour is located across the road so don’t let the location fool you. Try and arrive ahead of your journey time as there aren’t many car park spaces and there are lots of people arriving by coach. There is a walkway that gives you safe passage under the busy road to the harbour. This is conveniently located next to a large ‘Nessie’ statue at the far end of the car park. A large gift shop can also be found at this location. 

Be aware, there are not very many gift shops on the route and therefore you should buy any desired trinkets when you see them. Prices remained similar in the few shops I did see. For example, magnets were generally £2.50-3.99.

After our brief cruise we made our way to Plodda Falls, which was well signposted on the approach. There is a charge for the car park which is very reasonable. We found there were quite a few midges here so grab those midge nets or deet sprays. We didn’t fare too badly on this entire trip but it is always good to be prepared. The waterfall here is exceptional and the observation deck is NOT to be missed. There are two trails you can try. The white marked Plodda Falls Trail and the green marked Tweedmouth Trail. Somehow we started on the white trail and finished on the green trail. I know I know, we did not start very strong on our trial following. But there are no complaints about doing it this way. If you have time constraints, definitely do the first trail and if unsure, just retrace your steps. 

A perfect end to a fantastic day! We stayed in Strathpeffer and booked in for two nights for the next few days’ activities. (Review to be linked below soon!)

Oh and your car will be absolutely filthy from the dusty, single track road to Plodda. Sorry about that! The Scottish rain will soon sort it right out.

https://www.jacobite.co.uk/tours

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/09/highlight-two-of-the-nc500-a-tall-observation/

NC500 Day 2 – Bruar, Loch Ness and Plodda Falls
NC500 Day 1 – Itinerary

NC500 Day 1 – Itinerary

Hello, we are back! What a trip and experience and just everything unimaginable. I almost feel the need to apologise to the UK at this point for previously thinking it had nothing to offer. Who would have thought covid restrictions and airline and airport issues would bring us so much joy in pushing us to try something new!

This is blog one of the Scotland itinerary series. Much like the Italy itineraries I shared with you, I will be posting the itineraries for this mammoth trip day by day so you can get a real feel for what this involves. I will be editing my original itinerary and including the new and improved version for you below. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

So let’s start shall we…

I had hoped we would dig into our pre-bought food supplies to have a breakfast of porridge on our very first day however having to be in the car at 5am did not warrant getting up at 4am for a more refined meal. I salute the previous buying of sausages rolls and fruit for the journey up from Essex the day before as we tucked into a much simpler breakfast. 

Having missed our opportunity to do Arthurs Seat in 2021, we drove to Edinburgh to complete our ticklist for the city. We planned to park in our trusty free parking spot in Kirkwood place, however despite arriving early we found this completely rammed. This may be due to it being a neighbourhood area and everyone still being in bed! However with quick googling skills I found a car park literally at the start of the walk for Arthurs Seat and also free on weekends. Highly recommended!

As mentioned in my Day One blog (link below) you will see that we stupidly took the wrong route. As a starting hike for this trip, we intended to keep it nice and simple and therefore wanted to take the blue route to the top of Arthur’s Seat. And yet you will not find any signposts for the different routes. The only advice I can give you is to take the grass route when everyone veers right. As you walk up the tarmacked path with the sloping hills of Arthurs seat on your right and the road on your left, you will climb a sloping hill that turns to the right. Above you on the left are some ruins with a mud path leading up to it should you like a quick look. Returning to the same path, this is where I found the path took a definite right hand turn and the shingle underfoot became larger and looser. This is where a sign would be posted for the blue/red routes. The blue route follows the pronounced grassy hill on the left and the red route is on the right. At our climbing time everyone was on the right and we sheep followed it unknowingly. We kept an eye on the grassy path as we climbed the rocky alternative and it was very clear from above which route would have been more favourable. By taking the blue/grassy route you make a slower, more gradual ascent up ol’ Arthur and definitely smoother. You will slowly curve your way up the grassy sides of the volcano before rejoining the red route for the last very short scramble. Whether you take the blue or red route, the last scramble is the same. There is no clear path to follow as it is literally a hands and feet climb across an expanse of jagged but small rocks. For ease I would return via the blue route, whether you used the red for the ascent or not. It is less busy and has better views of the top as you return to your car. 

Be aware once at the top there are no plateaus as such so put all your weight in your legs for those all important selfies and be prepared for the wind! This is a great little introduction to the hikes of Scotland.

Continue your day up the eastside of Scotland to the Cairngorms National Park. This is not a route to rush. We crossed the Queensferry Bridge which was just fabulous and please do take time when driving through Edinburgh to look at all the fantastic architecture. There are also beautiful tree-lined avenues just outside the city itself and I-spied a gorgeous park called South Inch Park that I could easily have spent an hour or so with a coffee.   

As you enter the Cairngorms the scenery dramatically changes and I feel it is a perfect start to your wilds of Scotland trip. The great thing is there are many many stopping points and they invite you to stop and drink it all in. I advise you to use as many of these as possible. During our time, there were lots of motorbike riders and sports car drivers on the snow roads and we wanted to be slow to take it all in. The laybys help you avoid the rushing for sure. 

Our aim was to drive through the National Park to Grantown on Spey for our hotel (link to review will be added below very soon) and stop at the Balmoral Estates for the walk to the Prince Albert Cairn. Unfortunately due to the Queen’s passing on 8th September the estates’ walks were closed. We did however check out the car park and found it much bigger than I initially understood it to be and it would be a shame if you miss this off of your itinerary. Therefore I have included the information for you below! Go for it! One day we will get there. 

Be very aware you are on the grounds of the royal house of Balmoral and flying a drone at the Cairn will be prohibited. 

I advise you to stay at Grantown on Spey as there are a lot of food options and it is the perfect starting point for Day 2 of my itinerary! We had some fabulous and much needed hot food to finish off the day. Recommendations coming soon. 

A lot of this day is dedicated to driving. The first slog of driving is uneventful but you make up for this with the stop and start nature of the second half. It is definitely a great introduction to what lies ahead!

NC500 Day 1- Edinburgh and the Cairngorms.
Highlight one of the NC500 – A royal goodbye

NC500 Day 12 – Glencoe and the Trossachs

Miles: 168 Wildlife: 1 heron. Camper Vans: 15+. Steps: 6883.

Cost of pre-bought food: £5.90 approximately

Extra costs: Breakfast £7.80, Dinner £51

This morning started like most on this trip. Eyes peeking out through tired lids. Brain starting  recalling the itinerary for the day ahead. And busy hands packing away various bags and brushing teeth. 

Last night, as part of a pre-emptive strike, I clicked on the website for the Ben Nevis gondolas to check if they were running today. As per advice a month or so ago I was to check arrangements on the day as they do not run in bad weather. So off I went only to find out the autumn timings had been brought in and they were closed on the very day we were meant to be there. I’ll admit it, I was quite ‘miffed’. Something about Ben Nevis is quite thrilling to me and losing this opportunity had not been taken lightly. Normally I would sit up and adjust the itinerary to compensate for the loss, but I physically could not stay away. Win win for the insomniac! 

Waking to Mr W’s alarm reminded me that he didn’t know about the change in plans. He was just as disappointed as me. The consolation at large is we are already starting to plan our return and this will just be added to the list of places we need to attempt again. 

While attempting to reshuffle the day, I noticed the Glencoe walk today wasn’t igniting a fire within me and I started to question why I felt so lacklustre. Was I too tired? I passed the plan to Mr W and he said the walk looked a tad boring too. We decided to change things up a bit. 

First of all, I had the best shower of our whole trip, spent time drying my hair and then treated Mr W to a pastry at the Rain Bakery in Fort William. He had the maple and bacon swirl while I went for my usual Pain au Chocolat. They were ever so slightly warm and hands down the best pastries we have both ever had. Truth be told, I wish I’d gone back and bought another. But hey, let’s hope they don’t go down the same route as other independent businesses and are still there when we return! Mmmm. 

Setting off later than normal was quite the gift and instead of seeing the Ben Nevis range up close and personal we tried to see it from afar. We parked in the Corpach loch car park and were thrilled, well I was, to see the Jacobite train making its first trip of the day in the distance. As we parked, I jumped out of the car and RAN to meet it at the level crossing. The same excitement flowed through my body as the locomotive came closer and funnelled its stream of steam into the cold morning air. To be that close again was just amazing and as we were now without a platform it just seemed so much bigger. I remember gasping in utter delight. We stopped while it passed and watched it disappear into the hills once more. Magical. 

Remembering what we had come for, we crossed the train tracks and walked towards the edge of the Loch. Across the vast expanse of water sat the Nevis range under thick clouds. The day, it seemed, was not being kind. However, you cannot win everything on these trips and the ability to be flexible is one I wish to wholeheartedly have one day. I’m getting there. With a nod to Mr W we left to say goodbye to Fort William. 

We took the time to drive down the length of Loch Linnhe and onto the famous Glencoe region. The sheer size of the mountains on the westside of Scotland have been indescribable and the peaks here are no different. Some rise up smoothly like hills and then there are the others that are dramatic and erupt out of the earth flamboyantly and all of a sudden. 

If I am completely honest, I wasn’t too blown away by the landscape. Mr W and I talked about it at length today. About how and why we felt a lack of connection to the day. There were several theories. Maybe we were homesick. Maybe we didn’t want to go home. Maybe the amount of tourists in Fort William and Glencoe was something we hadn’t yet experienced on the trip so far. Maybe we are just tired. They are all valid reasons. Maybe, just maybe, you can have too much of a good thing. The mountains in Glencoe are more green and grassy than their rocky, grey counterparts in north western Scotland and I think I do prefer those. It is a strange feeling to be underwhelmed in such a beautiful place. We have nothing like this in Essex. We don’t even have a waterfall. We have a man made lake near where we live. It is a fishing lake next to a playground. It’s not relaxing, nor is it amazing. I have chastised myself several times today when I’ve lost my ability to get excited.

We stopped to have a good picnic lunch from our supplies by Loch Tulla and after just a few minutes were surrounded by tour coaches and hoards of people posing for photos. After talking to one of the coach drivers, we were told that tours often start in Glasgow and head to Fort William and then onto Skye. I guess it gives people that don’t have time to tour round the exact snapshots of Scotland that they can go home and feel satisfied. It was then that we realised it may be the amount of people around us in the last few days that has diluted our experience. I truly believe this is down to the way we travel having changed and this is because of covid. It will be interesting moving forward to see how this affects international travel and city breaks. 

It helps to talk these things through and have someone you really can talk to. I know I’m very lucky. After hitting mile 2000 on this trip we made our way through the Trossachs National Park and through to the 3 Lochs Forest Drive. Originally not on the plans for today, it replaced the ‘boring’ walk and I was glad of it. We like the forest drive in Kielder Forest and hoped this would spark the same enjoyment. As we crept along the forest drive we found so many similarities to the site in Northumberland and when we came upon a clearing, we took the opportunity to fly the drone and stop for a leg stretch. Reading a nearby sign we found out that you can camp on the forest drive for £4 a night and it started us talking, once again, about the next trip up to Scotland. Due to constraints of weather and my back hurting, we have trimmed a few items out of the daily plans so far and aim to return as soon as possible to complete these things and of course add more!

Feeling rejuvenated, both mentally and physically, we head down through Glasgow for dinner and have just arrived at our accommodation. It has been a funny day. It’s not the last day in Scotland that I imagined but at the same time what I once imagined would be a goodbye is now a see you later. 

Tomorrow we drive down to the Lake District for our wedding anniversary. 

Until then, be kind to yourself, not everything deserves a smile, but you deserve everything.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/16/nc500-day-12-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/17/highlight-12-of-the-nc500-3-lochs-forest-drive/ 

Last photo by Dave Watson
Please check out his work on https://www.instagram.com/davewatson_uk/ or at https://davewatson1980.picfair.com

NC500 Day 11: Jacobite Steam Train, Loch Eilt and Glenfinnan Viaduct

Miles: 138 Wildlife: 5 deer and several jellyfish. Camper Vans: 10 or so. Steps: 9913.

Cost of pre-bought food: £3.50 approximately

Extra costs: Lunch £11.80, Dinner £16

Today was a really special day. Something I’ve wanted to do for such a long time. Something I thought only existed in a movie and yet the moment I found out its authenticity I couldn’t help but dream. And isn’t that what travelling is about? Achieving dreams?

We left Skye at 6am this morning and other than the odd early morning deer in the road, quite literally playing the deer caught in headlights, it was exceptionally quiet. It’s become quite the norm for us to be out in the dark chasing the map ahead of us and being alone in the sleepy streets. Even today, on day 11, it isn’t easy. One thing I cannot stress enough to anyone thinking of this trip and whether it is viable is just how intense the timetable is. When I release our itinerary in the coming weeks and the alterations we have made along the way please bear in mind there has not been a day in this second week where we have felt full of energy. There are no regrets to speak of, it is so amazing here that when you are out and about your energy flourishes, it is only when you stop that it falters. You, well I, lose the plot over something so minor. This evening, when we reached our hotel, ahead of schedule, whoop, we decided to crack open some tins of food for something other than a pot noodle. We have sweetcorn, potatoes and tuna.We stood by the car for quite some time tonight packing clothing, food and valuables. When the time came to sort out dinner, I looked around and realised the tin opener was still in the car. Over the past week or so we’ve always forgotten something or another in our home on wheels, and yet tonight it tipped me over the edge. Add one cup of tiredness, one cup of exhaustion and mix into an already crazy lady and you’ll find a resemblance of the girl who sat in front of her husband upset. 

Obviously, he said it was fine. And obviously, said it was normal to not be perfect. I’m still learning to give myself a break when it comes to mistakes. It’s a slow process for sure. 

Let’s continue with what we did today shall we?

Our first drive of the day was a big one. Well, a lot bigger than recent drives have been. The drive itself took 2 ¾ hours, it did include a pitstop on a bridge so we could change our clothes. It was the first parking space we found when we could see what we were doing. The sky was lit nicely enough but by god was it cold. The last 36 hours or so have changed rapidly in temperature and we are in single digits for the first time. Changing from my joggers into a dress on the side of a cold road was definitely an experience, especially when trucks that blasted by were sending the spray up from the road. 

But it was of no real importance. I just wanted to look more like me than a scabby foot today. That’s another thing about doing these kinds of intense trips. You end up wearing simple clothes, no makeup and life becomes more about function than pretty. Clothing you don’t mind getting muddy, wet and even really sweaty!

Oh aren’t I the chatty one tonight. Go big or go home eh? Another hot chocolate for fuel, sil vou plait.  

So, dressy dress on, hair brushed and face made up, we parked up in Fort William at just past 9am and waltzed over to Tom-Na-Faire station. The excitement for one of us was very real and Mr W said it was palpable.  As the minutes ticked by, the queues grew and then, there she was. With her big black locomotor and deep burgundy carriages. The Jacobite Steam Train is popular due to how it inspired a certain author in her books. It is heavily impregnated in the Harry Potter books. The train takes Harry to school on his first day at wizarding school. The train is called the Hogwarts Express and just being near it felt magical. I felt like I had received my invite to study at Hogwarts castle and after 25 years of waiting, I was finally on my way. The platform was full of Potter and train enthusiasts alike and I was all of a dither flying around posing for photos and squealing at the steam emitted from the chimney. 

Finding our seats we settled in for the 2 hour journey to Mallaig. There was a man with a food trolley who asked ‘anything from the trolley?’ and a souvenir lady who came down the carriage. And then we crossed the very real viaduct that you see in so many of the films. Notably in the Chamber of Secrets when Ron and Harry drive their flying car up and over the moving train and down and through the viaduct arches. It is absolutely iconic and just to travel over this icon was amazing. The 9 year old girl who lives somewhere inside me was very happy indeed. 

A girl in front of me was equally excited and bought a chocolate frog and Bertie Bott’s every flavour beans from the trolley and we laughed as she tested the beans. She offered me one and laughed as I gagged at the taste of cabbage which was meant to resemble rotten egg. It was nice to be around like minded people. Harry Potter has long been a book series I return to when I am in need of comfort. I share the love of these books with my dad and many friends and believe they will stand the test of time. 

Alighting at Malliag, we wandered the harbour staring out at the water, as we have become accustomed to do, and watched the men working on the boats. Piles of fishing nets decorated the pier with their bright greens and blues. Looking down into the water I saw some seaweed floating and then something altogether more surprising next to it. A jellyfish. Brown and white, contracting and relaxing its body to ‘swim’ along. The surrounding water then came to life with even more jellyfish. Some bigger and more even bigger. Unbelievable really. You learn something new everyday. Mr W was chuffed, he has never seen one before. It is moments like that that you can’t prepare for. 

After a quick snack and exploration of the ‘Harry Potter’ store Haggard Alley, we boarded the train for the return journey. The train was quieter now and although absolutely amazing, the excitement of the morning had evaporated some and the smooth journey plus the warm carriages were making its occupants sleepy. Rain dashed itself against the window as we passed lochs, rivers, waterfalls, mountains and waving passerbys. Just to be sat there, in the very storylines that have comforted me for so long was really emotional and I felt the lifetime of dreaming was now complete.

It doesn’t matter if something seems childish, some people may think they are children’s books and movies. But the truth is, they spoke to me then and they still do now. When you live with anxiety you will often return to a subject matter, like a book or a movie as a form of comfort. It is comforting because it is familiar. It warms your heart. It is safe. Loving a story like this stays with you whether you are 7 or 70. So today, my 9 year old self was given the reins and my 34 year old self was so very happy. 

Mr W lets me be those people. It is important. Which is why after reaching Fort William, we raced in our car to the next port of call. 25 miles away from Fort William is a particularly important island for Potter fans. In fact, not too many people know about it. On the eastern side of the loch you will spy a very small, tightly populated with trees island. 

There is no parking per say but should you follow the link (at the bottom) it’ll take you to somewhere you can park which is a very short walk from the ‘viewing’ area. Pack waterproof shoes. Wander through the trees and you’ll see it as soon as you look up. The island is where Dumbledore was buried in the movies. It is THE very island. The movie makers filmed this island and then superimposed it onto a bigger loch for the movie. It is a representation of the man who we all loved as a kid. The man who guided Harry until the very end. I walked through a bog to reach my viewing point and while Mr W looked on I stood looking out in awe. It was a very personal experience. One that not many would understand. But for those that do, please go.

 

Shaking the mud off my boots, it was back to the car for another race against time. We had 40 minutes to reach the Glenfinnan visitor centre car park and head up into the hills behind it. There was no precise time being dictated to us, but miss our window and it would be another long trip back to witness this wonder. We marched for over 30 minutes uphill to get the best vantage point and turned to look back at our trial. It starts in the car parks, follows the river, passes under an arch, turns and sweeps you up a steep muddy hill. 

And there you are. Looking down at the curving Glenfinnan viaduct. You are on top of the world. Literally. When will it come? You sit, stand, pace in excitement. Time ticks by. 5 minutes. 10 minutes. 20 minutes. The amount of people on the surrounding hills grows. They too know what is coming. Out of the silence you hear the sound. And then there she is. With her black engine and burgundy carriages. The ‘Hogwarts Express’. Passing over the viaduct emitting her steam. The whistling is loud enough to hear even up at this height and you trace it, without blinking, along its pathway. The steam is pure white. The carriages gleam. The passengers wave. It snakes its way around the viaduct and disappears into the foothills of the surrounding mountains. 

And you are enthralled. Happy to finally be here. Lifelong dream accomplished. 

As we drove to our hotel, we saw the sunset sending pink clouds over the top of Ben Nevis and I realised magic is everywhere as long as willing to see it.

https://what3words.com/hoods.skirting.spurring

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/15/highlight-11-of-the-nc500-the-hogwarts-express/


https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/14/nc500-day-11-itinerary/

NC500 Day 10 – Fairy Glen, Quiraing and Mealt Falls

Miles: 131. Wildlife: an otter. Camper Vans: 50+. Steps: 9543

Cost of pre-bought food: £3.70 approximately
Extra costs: £18 for dinner and £8 for lunch

As I changed my walking boots for something less bulky and smelly tonight I noticed a stone lodged in the tread. As I went to remove it, I paused, why remove it? Let it stay there as a reminder of this trip. This marvelous, close to ending, trip.

I’m happy to say the itinerary changed a lot today. We started the day four hours later than planned after staying in bed to avoid the rain. We did the itinerary in reverse and cut some stops out due to time and weather restraints. The biggest loss was the walk up the Old Man of Storr. It was gutting but sometimes that’s what happens. You can’t control the weather but you can control how you react to it. We already know we’ll be returning here and have it in mind for then.

So, what did we do today?

Well, avoiding the rain didn’t exactly go to plan. But let’s start at the beginning.

We drove the 90 minutes to the Fairy Glen in Uig, although it took quite a lot longer due to trying to find a deli or cafe for a snack. There is certainly slim pickings on the island and 50% of the places we found were closed for the rest of the year. We eventually found a shop and praised it for having the typical road snacks everyone requires.

Onwards! We made it to the Fairy Glen at midday and were surprised to see how busy the car park was. The Isle of Skye is definitely busier than any other place we have stopped on this tour. We spoke to our accommodation host this evening and he said most tourists go to Edinburgh, Loch Ness and Skye. If they do it all at once or over time I’m not sure but it certainly makes sense with the changes we have seen. For instance the car parks are mostly paved, taken care of and are not free. This was not the case on the mainland. We’ve spent more here on parking than the entire trip so far. It’s mad.

Anyway, we dressed to protect us against the strings winds sweeping the land and started our walk. As we walked up one hill to look down into the glen, you guessed it, the rain came. Prepared we continued on our way until the rain dropped off my nose. Sheltering under trees we waited a while until we called time on it. Disappointed at being thwarted again we head back to the car. While drying off, blue skies soared over us and invited us back to the glen.

The glen itself is exceptionally strange and only from a great height can you really appreciate the landscape. The lumps and bumps that protrude from the earth are fascinating. As the weather started to decline and the routes up into the mounds were really slippery we decided to send up the drone and ‘Marv’ caught a few pictures before the rain returned. Satisfied that we had given it another try we returned to the car once more.



Ten minutes later we parked up for another walk. Rha waterfall is absolutely awe-inspiring. It is really easy to find. A very short walk and just great. It hides behind some cottages and provides such a loud roar that it prevents you from worrying and thinking about life. I should think that if I were to live near a waterfall it would be my escape. Just somewhere to sit and let go of all my anxieties. The noise of the water would drown them out. Perfection.


Happy that the weather had improved and that the walk was short we drove to the next stop. Another car park, another charge, but wow the Quiraing viewing point is seriously amazing. You can literally see where the land has slipped. It’s really difficult to describe. But there are monoliths of rock and earth jutting out at all angles and shapes.

The grass caresses every one of the waves of land and it is truly indescribable. It is also one of the windiest places I have ever been. I had to stand behind Mr W twice just to hide from the onslaught and compose myself. Hands red raw and hoods soggy we clicked away with our cameras and stood in quiet awe. I think when we come back it would be a stop to return to. There is a 3-4 hour hike towards the rocks called The Prison and The Needle. They, like the Old Man of Storr, look absolutely iconic and what is life but to want to be near an icon and gaze upon it at one’s leisure.



When Mr W’s hands regained their feeling we made the next very short drive to Mealt Falls. The car park is free! Wahey! After missing the view of Talisker waterfall crashing down the cliffs yesterday due to the visibility I am ecstatic to say that this cliff dropping waterfall was seen in all its splendor. It’s spray was sent our way via the wind and I did not mind one bit! The crashing water on the rocks from the sea met the water from the falls and it just felt magical. Another scene from a movie. I’m sure I’ll remember what movie at some point but maybe you will know where you have seen something similar!



With a pat on the back for making it to 80% of our visits today, we treated ourselves to our second visit to Portree for their tasty chips and watched love on the harbour as we ate. There was no seal bobbing about today but just watching the water was enough for us. The waters here are tidal but as the wind blew against the surface different shapes appeared and made for great entertaining. The fishing boats all swayed in the moving waters and cormorants dived for their next meal. Someone beyond our line of sight was playing the bagpipes and the with the seagulls calling it made for a very surreal moment. I’m kind of in love with the whole picture.


As we drove back to our accommodation we stopped numerous times to take photos of the sun changing the colours of the mountains, lochs and clouds. Pink hues were replaced with milky blues and mountains became silhouettes against the neighbours. Our journey was extended time after time with every click of the camera. We spoke about how much this trip had meant to both of us. We have two days left in Scotland before our trip descends into England. With everything that has happened with travel due to covid I find myself wondering if we ever would have found our passion for hiking and rural retreats on our own. It has changed so much about our lives for the better.

Stopping again for more photos, I glanced down at the water searching for those yearned for fins and I saw movement in the water. It was too close to shore to be anything big. Lifting my binoculars I watched as a slinky body climbed out and up some rocks. An otter. The first I’ve ever seen in the wild. It’s as if it knew I needed a pick-me-up after my sadness about leaving had left me quiet.

And then he disappeared. Leaving me with my new smile and a beautiful memory.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/13/highlight-10-of-the-nc500-the-quiraing/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/10/nc500-day-10-itinerary/





NC500 Day 9 – Isle of Skye – Fairy Pools and Talisker Bay Beach

Miles: 152.  Wildlife: 19 deer, 1 stag and a harbour seal. Camper Vans: 45+. Steps: 15906.

Cost of pre-bought food: £5.50 approximately

Extra costs: £17 for two cheeseburgers and chips and onions rings in Portree

5:45am our alarm went off. It’s been a while since we’ve been up that early on this trip. After a quick gulp down of some very stodgy porridge we threw out bags in the car and set off into the darkness. It was time to attempt the infamous Bealach Na Bà in the dark and also, it would seem, in the rain. Lots of people would say that the weather is what makes a holiday a holiday and yet it doesn’t really bother me. I’m exceptionally surprised we are nine days into our trip and only really had the odd shower. 

As we climbed the Applecross peninsula we were surprised to find three other motorists on the road and one very brave cyclist. Visibility was extremely poor and at times we were barely doing 17 miles an hour. As we came to the very top of the mountain we planned to stop and yet there was absolutely nothing to see. Until there was. As I gazed out into the void the milky clouds presented the perfect background for two silhouettes. Mummy and baby deer. I squealed in my seat at Mr W. ‘Deer! Deer!’. He paused in his driving as I took as many pictures as possible. As I told him he could carry on I took one last look back and my jaw dropped. ‘STAG!!!’ I shouted. He slammed on the brakes. We had been waiting a week to see one of these beauties. And through the clouds, rain and darkness there he was in all his splendour. Big shaggy coat, huge antlers and a quick careless glance right at me. This was his land. We were only visitors. Despite the rain and wind and cold and darkness I felt lucky to be there right at that moment. With no other intrusive eyes. No people edging closer for a better photo. Just us and him. 

The sky did not exist. We were surrounded by thick clouds and so we continued on our way. It was time to carry on down the most challenging part of the route, the extreme hairpin turns. Although extremely quieter than yesterday, and therefore giving us more time, it was still pretty mind boggling and yet strangely exhilarating to twist and turn the car down the mountain. As we came down the east side of the pass the light around us changed as the sun came up from its horizon haunt. We spotted another 16 deer along the lower foothills of the mountain and they were much more skittish than the three at the top. Maybe the sunlight that had started to flood the space was showing them us and spooking them. 

The drive after the morning safari was pretty uneventful and I was glad of it. Our energy levels have been lacking severely in the last few days. So we took our time and stopped along the way to snack and disengage from the rolling tarmac. 

By 8:30am we were crossing the Skye Bridge into the Isle of Skye. Energy levels boosted by our excitement of visiting this place buzzed to the surface. 

Our first stop was at Coo View point, a particularly pretty lookout on the mountains of Skye. By the roadside were a few Highlands Coos. With their Reddy brown shaggy coats, long curving horns and exceptionally big, wet noses they are among some of the most adorable animals in abundance in Scotland. I have begun calling out ‘Cooooo’ everytime we pass them in the fields. They, like the stag, give you an eye and then carry on with what they’re doing. You are not a part of their world. You are the ones who are fascinated. 

The wind whipped around the car as we approached our next stop at Sligachan Bridge. One of the top sites to see in Skye I was looking forward to seeing it in person. And yet the most fascinating moment of our visit was seeing 10-12 people placing their faces in the water flowing beneath the bridge while a man counted to 7 and the surrounding crowds clapped. Mr W and I took one look at each other and both had the same bemused and confused look. After a quick Google I found that the reason people do this act is for eternal beauty. As Mr W pointed out, if we attempted it, we wouldn’t have the energy to sit back up and we walked away laughing. 

We were making good timing on the plans today and had an hour or so extra time to play with. We made the short drive to Glenbrittle to visit the famous Fairy Pools. Even at 10:30am this place was busy! We have become so accustomed to quiet walks while in Scotland that we were quite taken back by the amount of people around us. We also concluded that not many of the visitors were Scottish. The friendliness of the past week had all but disappeared. Not very many hellos or shows of politeness at all. It was a shame. 

We looked down to the pools from the car park and strapped on our boots. This was a lengthy walk. The descent down to the first bridge on the walk was simple enough and then the fun began. Large rocks made the walk up and around the pools slightly more challenging and after what I can only guess as a very busy summer the viewing areas around the pools were exceptionally muddy. However, it felt very relaxed to clamber over rocks and boulders while walking along the river. Even though we were steadily climbing up the mountain with every step it was a very gradual ascent and not too taxing. 

The fairy pools themselves are really and truly very pretty. They zig zag their way down the vast expanse of mountainside and have carved their way mystically through the rock. Imagine them like a curving staircase which at every other step has the most beautiful waterfall, or in some cases twin/triplet waterfalls.

Beneath the waterfalls, sculpted pools of rock in hues of blue and green greet the splashing liquid from above and somehow, despite the surrounding peat fields and flora and fauna, the water is absolutely crystal clear. The entire river itself is also just as clear. The rocks that have long been left behind by the cutting water are jagged and gnarly and yet also smooth in places. They are white and grey and darkest black and then green, blue and orange. Everything here is vying for your attention and as you notice one beauty another snaps your head in the opposite direction. 

As we neared the top of the pools more water feel from above. Only this time it was the clouds that sent it our way. Zipping up our coats and drawing up our hoods around our necks we persisted in our mission. It is a truly mesmerising place. Each pool, fall and twist and turn is different. They are stunning. 

7000+ steps later and one discarded layer of clothing, we shoved a snack in our gobs and turned towards our next walk. This one, I had waited for for oh such a long time. You may have noticed I have a slight, wee, tiny obsession with waterfalls and yet this one was going to be entirely new in its surroundings. Talisker Bay Beach is home to a supreme of the waterfall world. It crashes down the cliffside from the river Allt Mheididh and in high winds can send its spray down onto the beach itself. 

We saw… absolutely none of this. Disaster struck in the form of more rain on our approach to the beach and despite forcing our limbs to carry on despite their fatigue the sun god’s were not willing to award us with the view of the Talisker waterfall. I could have stood on that beach and screamed and yet with water soaking through my clothings, rain drenching my face and Mr W looking like he’d run into the sea fully clothed, I couldn’t help but laugh. The sheep around us baa’d and the wind howled as it pushed literal waves of rain across the scene before us. The adventure was this. 

Tonight we have sat and made peace with the fact that tomorrow may change slightly due to the weather and despite the minor disappointment we are well aware of our limitations and the fact that one day we’ll be back to complete what is already a pretty amazing trip. Until then, we get a lay in and a cup of tea in bed. It turns out what makes a holiday is you and what you love doing with the person who makes you laugh every day. 

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/08/nc500-day-9-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/09/highlight-9-of-the-nc500-the-fairy-pools/

NC500 Day 8 – Red Point Beach, Victoria Falls and the Bealach Na Bà

Miles: 95. Wildlife: 14 deer and a heron. Camper Vans: 30+. Steps: 5808.

Cost of pre-bought food: £8.40 approximately
Extra costs: nothing

Waking up the night after you were poorly is never going to be pleasant and Scotland did not help with its grey skies this morning. Arriving at the accommodation in the rain last night and waking up to billowing clouds this morning was a total mood killer. We had a simple breakfast of toast at our accommodation and then made for the road. Today would be better. I’m just stubborn that way. 

As the day around us woke up, we passed something I feel like I have only seen in a movie before. Loch Bad na-Achlaise in Gairloch acted like a mirror showcasing the mountain behind it and the morning sky. Not a single ripple marked its surface and it was utterly mesmerising to behold. Its glassy surface was untouched by the waking day.  

We drove from Aultbea to Red Point beach where we found ourselves rather uninspired by the lack of redness in the sand. After all this was the draw and it fell rather flat. In fact we spent more time talking to the farmer’s cows than looking at the disappointing beach.

We dragged our tired bodies up to the viewpoint at the top of the sand dune (you see, what exhausted body doesn’t need an early morning walk up the side of a deep, tilted carpet of sand) and through the early morning haze we saw the Isle of Skye. Now, we actually saw it from the road, but either way, it was amazing seeing it before we head there tomorrow. Mr W pointed out that the beach itself was not as good as Achmelvich yesterday and I said you simply couldn’t compare the two. This beach was more about the different colour of the sand and how peculiar it was, yesterday was about pure luxury and the shock factor of how somewhere so picture postcard perfect could be in the UK.

The cows were bloody cute by the way. Although no amount of hellos could tempt them for a big ol pat on the head. 

Determined, we reshuffled our belongings in the car to try and create some order and then pursued the day ahead. As we approached our next stop, the early grey clouds lifted and blue skies pushed the white fluffy clouds around above us. The sun was burning hot and I couldn’t help but feel myself come to life. How is it that we prepared for monsoons and were given this?

Victoria Falls is one of the first places that we have visited on the west side of the highlands that has been signposted. The walk is very short from the car park and on a level path. Excellent news for the tired traveller. You are greeted by a large wooden viewpoint that gives you the most spectacular vantage point for the falls across the gorge. This place was busy! People coming up, snapping their cameras and leaving. It prompted me to remind myself to take in a moment rather than just capture it on film. It’s important to be able to look back at the pictures you take and remember just why you thought it was prudent to take the shot in the first place. Was it amazing? Was it beautiful? What did you enjoy about it? I like to think by writing these pieces and taking my photos I am creating something not just for the passing reader but for me to look back on and remember all these wonderful moments. Victoria Falls did not disappoint and I pushed my aches and pains to the back of my mind to hike up the hill and look down on the falls from above. They are loud and impressive. Just as they should be. Behind the falls are large sloping rocks where a slim, wide curtain of water flows freely. It was like a draping of silver that had caught the light. Transfixing.

Beyond the falls all 13 miles of Loch Maree stretched back to the horizon and matched the sky with its light blue surface. What a beautiful place to take a moment to yourself.

After our short visit to Victoria falls, we paused at the Glen Docherty viewpoint and then made the very journey we had been waiting for for so long. 

The Bealach Na Bà is a single track road that winds its way through the Applecross Peninsula. It reaches a height of over 2000ft and carries a fair share of warnings for new drivers and larger vehicles. It is the steepest ascending road in the UK and was absolutely thrilling. The tight hairpin turns were some of the only parts that had barriers where all others just used the safety of prayer and perfect steering. At the very top of the pass you can park and jump out of the car to shake off the adrenalin (or the poop out of your pants) and enjoy the tremendous view over the mountain to the Isle of Skye. Everyone who was emerging from their cars was smiling and laughing about the journey they had just taken. It was a very happy place. 

I’m starting to realise that this IS a happy place. 90% of the people you pass say hello. We’ve stopped and talked to so many new people and it’s been so easy to just chit chat. It’s clear to see why this country deserves its place on the must-see travel lists. Will we come back? Absolutely. We just need time to recover from this visit first!   

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/01/20/nc500-day-8-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/10/highlight-8-of-the-nc500-hartfield-house-hostel/