Tag: nc500 itinerary

NC500 Day 10 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series.

Let’s crack on shall we, this is the itinerary for Day 10 on our NC500 tour of Scotland.

Our day changed dramatically due to the weather. So I’m going to give you our planned itinerary and you’ll be able to gain all information and thoughts about what we actually experienced here and on my summary of the day in the blogs linked below. Up until we arrived in Skye we had been very smug about how kind the weather had been to us and then… well, the waterfalls we had seen so far seemed to open above us. 

Today’s plans are not for the faint hearted. It is a very packed and strenuous day with two big hikes in it. This may seem too much but it will open up all of Skye to you. The big attractions are all there for you to see and love. Enjoy!

A little advice on this one. You will want to check your sunrise/set times on this one. The activities at the beginning and end rely on seeing the sun on the horizon. I think it would create the most amazing views.

Start your morning in the dark and drive up to the Old Man of Storr. This is a hike we unluckily didn’t venture on. We sat in the car park for a long time determining whether we should attempt it as the day’s hours ticked on. We decided it wasn’t the timing we had planned and therefore left it to our return trip. I advise making this your first point of call and parking up before sunrise to guarantee a space in the very busy car park and to also see some of the most spectacular views over the Applecross Peninsula on the mainland when the sun makes its appearance. The car park charges £2 for 2 hours and there are toilets on site. Below are some pretty clear instructions to help you make this walk safely and without too much confusion. Snacks will be needed I am sure. 

‘The path starts through the gate near the back of the car park.The wide path winds uphill through an area intended to regenerate with native woodland. Keep ahead/slightly right when the path forks although it doesn’t really matter as both join up later. The path passes through two gates to eventually reach the open moor with the spectacular cliffs of the Storr up ahead. The Old Man can be difficult to pick out from the cliffs behind from this point. Continue up the wide footpath. As more height is gained, look out for a clear path branching left; take this turning. The path contours a little before ascending, swinging right to climb up to the left of the Old Man. The next section of walk has some danger from rockfall – it should certainly be avoided after heavy rains. Follow a path that descends to pass around the back of the Old Man; the path is clear but crosses a short section of fallen rocks. This area – with towering cliffs and pinnacles all around – is known as the Sanctuary. Beyond the Old Man stands the Needle Rock – also known as the Cathedral, which has a window right through it near the top. Continue towards this, but turn right before reaching it to begin the descent. There are several variant paths at first but all soon join as the descent continues, passing well below the east side of the Old Man. Once back on the main path, follow it down to eventually retrace your steps back onto the made path through the felled area. Further down, you can turn right at the fork to follow an alternative, equally well made path for the descent section. This weaves about and passes a small lochan before rejoining the outward route. Continue down to return to the car park.’

Sounds impressive right? Even from the car park the view of the Old Man of Storr is impressive and should you get to experience this walk please let me know how it is. Please?

Make sure you have a big drink to replace all that expended energy. 

The next stop is really easy so don’t worry about those achy legs. The car park is free (as of this blog) and it’s quite literally a minute’s walk away from the cliff’s edge. As mentioned in the previous days, itinerary sites on Isle of Skye are considerably busier than the mainland and you may therefore have a long wait for an up close photo opportunity. Be patient, it is absolutely worth it!

Unfortunately we didn’t go on the next visit. It is supposed to be great with actual dinosaur prints that aren’t roped off so you can get up close and personal. I know you are down at the water’s edge so take waterproof clothing and enjoy! Don’t linger too long, you have lots more to see and the next stop is the busiest point on today’s itinerary. 

The Quiraing viewpoint is absolutely breathtaking. The smallest amount you’ll pay at the car park is £3 but you do get 3 hours. The car park is bigger than most on the island and although busy you won’t find yourself waiting long for a space to become vacant. On site there is a food van selling hot dishes to warm you up after the strong winds found here. You can spend anywhere between 20 minutes to 2 hours here. There is a hike which looked absolutely incredible from the viewpoint and if the weather had been kinder we would have definitely given it a go. Take note of the signposted areas to prevent you from quite literally slipping down to meet the land below. Wrap up warm!

Next, take the very scenic drive to Rha waterfall. You will find the road here very steep in places and much of it is single track so act as the locals do and be kind and courteous. It becomes second nature after travelling so much of the NC500 to accept the to and fro of the single track road however due to the influx of day tourists you may find some impatience forming. Remind yourself it is the journey not the destination and you’ll be fine. 

I’ve given you two sets of details (both What3Words) to find Rha waterfall. One for the parking, which is free, and one for the gate which opens onto the short walk to the falls. This is a very short but rewarding walk. It is much less busy than other sites on the island and you’ll find yourself lucky to find some peace and quiet in this beautiful spot.  

We found the next spot quite difficult to find and therefore I’ve given you another set of What3Words instructions. In most cases you will be given a postcode to find sites in Scotland. This covers a vast amount of space and with very little SatNav signal and/or phone signal it can become quite difficult to find places. I advise downloading the W3W app and using it offline as much as possible. The car park at the Fairy Glen in Uig is brand new and charges £2 for 2 hours. Which I think is a generous amount of time for this site. It is fairly straightforward walking around the base of these mounds. Take care if you wish to take a birds eye view, rain causes very slippery conditions and there are some fairly steep sections. As we arrived in the rain I know we didn’t fully appreciate this site which is a damn shame.

Now, the next and last stop of the day is a biggie. It’s one of the big reasons we will return to the Isle of Skye as we also missed this walk due to the weather. Neist Point Lighthouse is a 2 hour hike to the coastal area of northern Skye. There have been sightings of whales from here and in my opinion as a sunset chaser, it will be a wonderful end to a full but exceptional day. As we didn’t accomplish this walk I have given you the information below for the walk. I would like to think that a well trodden path would be easy to see but you never know!

‘Begin by following the path through the gate, which if locked can be easily walked round. Almost immediately turn left on the path, which then swings right to ease the descent to the headland far below. There is a metal handrail for most of the descent. Continue along the now level path. It is possible to detour to the right to visit the edge of the cliffs, overlooking the great prow of An t-Aigeach, the dramatic upstanding crag half way out on the headland. To the left are great views to the impressive cliffs of Waterstein Head and the Hoe, the second highest on Skye. At the highest point of the constructed path, a grassy path heads off to the right – this is an optional detour to the top of An t-Aigeach. If you decide to visit the top, take great care near the cliff edge, and retrace your steps back to the main path. As the corner is rounded the lighthouse comes into view for the first time. Continue along the path towards the lighthouse and the former keepers’ cottages. From the path junction, you can turn left along a made path to reach the crane and crane. It is also worth detouring across rougher pathless ground beyond the lighthouse complex to reach the furthest point. The return route is back the same way. It is worth detouring to the left from the path before it heads round An t-Aigeach to visit the cliff edge; from here you can watch seabirds in season but take care as the edge is, of course, unprotected.’

And there you have it. The top sites of the Isle of Skye in one day. I hope it serves you well. You deserve a big dinner and drink to toast the day. 

Staying on the Isle of Skye means you need to just return to your accommodation and relax. Tomorrow we return to the mainland. Our journey draws to its conclusion. But for now, chill.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/13/highlight-10-of-the-nc500-the-quiraing/

NC500 Day 9 – Itinerary
NC500 Day 10 – Fairy Glen, Quiraing and Mealt Falls

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/13/highlight-10-of-the-nc500-the-quiraing/

NC500 Day 9 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series. I hope these have been of some help so far and thanks for returning! The NC500 route around Scotland is, as you may have guessed, approximately 500 miles. From our starting point in Essex, up to the route, around the Isle of Skye and back home via the Lake District we covered 2800 miles. This journey will see you cover many many miles and have your eyes peeled back as far as they will naturally go. It is a joy to travel this route and explore every corner. 

145 days ago we loaded up our car with as much long life food as possible, A LOT of wet weather gear and what we like to think were sensible purchases to make our experience in the wilds of the Scottish highlands as comfortable and safe as possible. There are other blogs on my page about our purchases and how we also kept the budget down. Keep tuned in for other tips and itinerary hacks. 

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

This is the itinerary for Day 9 of our NC500 road trip. 

We stayed in Applecross on the evening of day 8 and if you haven’t read the highlight of that day, I would take a moment to read it before you decide on your accommodation!

Staying in or around Applecross will give you a good starting point for the amazing journey to the Isle of Skye. Below is a guideline for timings. There are also other visits I will suggest on this one as I have heard they’re amazing and unfortunately we didn’t make it this time. 

Unfortunately our first stop of the day was closed but I have heard wonderful things about Manuelas Bakery (A87, Ardelve/Kyle IV40 8DY) which can be found on the approach to the Isle of Skye. They usually open at 8am and serve breakfast items which would be great for your journey. This place closes in the winter much like the rest of the highlands, so check out their social media pages to double and triple check that they are open. Do let me know what you think so I can incorporate this into our next trip! 

Make your way to the Skye Bridge get ready for the busiest part of your journey so far. The Isle of Skye is used by many tourists as a place to see ‘all’ of Scotland in one place. There are lots of minibuses and car parks are very busy. Tour buses come here on 5 day trips from Glasgow and Glencoe. It provides people with enough insight to say they have seen Scotland without venturing too far from the main towns and airports. Each to their own and I’m taking this opportunity to warn you that you are in for a big awakening from the sleepy nature of the trip so far. Take it in your stride and remind yourself that patience is a virtue! 

The main roads on the Isle of Skye are in excellent condition. Just watch out for the deer on those early morning drives. We had two very close incidents indeed.

From the Skye Bridge find your way to Coo View Point, if like me you have become enamoured with the highland cuties this is definitely a good spot to stretch the legs and take in the view and the love. Parking is more like a layby and as it is not signposted once again I have detailed the exact spot you’ll need using What 3 Words. 

From here you’ll find it an easy drive down to Sligachan Bridge. The car park, although small, does empty out rather quickly owing to the very small attraction here. I advise you to allow yourself just a short amount of time here as there really is a limited amount to do and it is a small tick off the list of things to see today and the next stop needs as much time as you can muster. 

The Isle of Skye Fairy Pools are exceptionally popular. We went in late September and yet the two car parks were very busy. There is a free car park on the approach to the second car park which costs £6. Now I know you will wonder why we chose the second car park and truth be told, we were just glad to be able to park at all. However in the second car park there was a new toilet block which we were exceptionally grateful for and it gave great views over to Bidean Druim nan Ramh. We did see the walk back to the first, free car park on our return from the pools and it was up a very steep road and after the 2.5 hours we spent hiking the area we were glad of our choice. The Fairy Pools are exceptional and I do wonder if they become easier to navigate in the drier summer months. I suspect people choosing to vacation within the UK during two years of disrupted travel has caused a lot of the muddy pathways to become as treacherous as they were and advise very sturdy footwear. There is so much to see and there are a lot of chances to swim in the pools. I advise going in with an open mind. This is the busiest place we went to on Skye.

From here there is a deviation from the itinerary below. A short 15 minute drive away is the Oyster Shed (W3W notifying.scored.pays.), serving you guessed it … oysters. I have heard wonderful things about this place and even though it was closed I would try and return when we are back in Skye. I advise checking their social media pages to double check when they are open and again this place will be seasonal. 

Before you attempt the next walk, I advise food, keeping snacks in the car is a must while on Skye as there are very few shops dotted around and even fewer out of season. It’s peculiar to think of places having an out of season in late September and yet we found it to be the case very often. Although not particularly taxing, this walk does go on and on and I hope the pay off at the end is better for you than us. It rained the ENTIRE time. We literally walked through clouds. And yet it was still an experience that makes me laugh even now. The car park is very very small and at the time we were there only 3 cars fit. I have included the What 3 Words directions here as it is a blink and you’ll miss it kind of situation. I have tried to include the directions I used from google to guide you on your way, however should you have a phone signal using the W3W directions again (W3W aced.warned.relieves) to find Talisker beach would serve you well when you think you are lost. 

 ‘At the end of the car park on the left hand side the public road becomes a private drive, follow the track. You will have a stone wall on your right hand side which is a large walled garden with mature trees overhanging the wall. On the left there is a grass bank. After a short walk you will get to the first metal gate, on the right by the wall there is a smaller gate head on through and continue down the drive with the stone wall on your right. You will get to a large white house with various outbuildings, the track continues on and remains clear in direction. Cross a concrete bridge and follow the track as it gently rises up to the second metal farm gate. Open the gate and head on through (carefully closing the gate behind you). You are now on the hillside where there is likely to be grazing sheep. The track continues with a slight raise. Looking ahead you will start to see the bay and the high cliffs that surround the beach. Follow the farm track which remains very clear. This track carries on to the beach and you can see most of the route ahead. Nearing the beach the track raises up towards an open gateway. Passing through the open gateway and turn right. Now with the beach in sight the path fades away. Cross a short grassy area to access the beach. The top of the beach is covered in rounded grey rocks, when the tide is lower a large grey sandy beach is exposed. On the right hand side of the beach there are high cliffs and a huge waterfall.’

I do hope your walk is better than ours as the pictures of Talisker waterfall online are absolutely stunning. Do let me know if you succeed!

After two big walks you deserve a much needed return to ‘civilisation’ and making your way to Portree does just that. Its tightly packed streets are beautiful and have several options for food. We chose to park on the Quay itself which is just next to the fish and chip shop. I highly recommend this place. There is no seating inside but grab your dish and use your dashboard as a table. You may be as lucky as us and spot a harbour seal swimming around the fishing boats looking for his next meal. ITs a beautiful spot to stop to watch the boats bob about and rest your tired feet. 

Should you like one more small walk the Apothecary Tower (W3W symphony.spruced.passport) is nearby and offers views over Portree and the surrounding landscape. I haven’t included it in our itinerary below as we can’t give you a fair recommendation as we opted out of this one. We just needed to peel the soaking clothes from our bodies and sleep. Really we should have pushed ourselves. It is a ten minute walk from the quay. 

Book a night’s accommodation on the Isle of Skye. Portree and the surrounding area will serve you best for tomorrow’s itinerary.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/07/highlight-8-of-the-nc500-hartfield-house-hostel/

Highlight 9 of the NC500 – The Fairy Pools
NC500 Day 8 – Itinerary

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/09/25/nc500-day-9-isle-of-skye-fairy-pools-and-talisker-bay-beach/

NC500 Day 8 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series. I hope these have been of some help so far and thanks for returning! It has been 121 days since we set off on our huge Scotland road trip. The NC500 route around Scotland is, as you may have guessed, approximately 500 miles. From our starting point in Essex, up to the route, around the Isle of Skye and back home via the Lake District we covered 2800 miles. This journey will see you cover many many miles and have your eyes peeled back as far as they will naturally go. It is a joy to travel this route and explore every corner. 

121 days ago we loaded up our car with as much long life food as possible, A LOT of wet weather gear and what we like to think were sensible purchases to make our experience in the wilds of the Scottish highlands as comfortable and safe as possible. There are other blogs on my page about our purchases and how we also kept the budget down. Keep tuned in for other tips and itinerary hacks. 

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

This is the itinerary for Day 8 of our NC500 road trip.

Today’s itinerary is completely relaxed owing to the heavy first 7 days. I am for the first time including our accommodation as I will cover this in the next blog, ‘Highlight eight of the NC500’. Should you choose to stay outside of Applecross after travelling the Bealach Na Ba you’ll have plenty of time for the extra driving. 

Starting your day from Aultbea means your first drive of the day should take approximately 50 minutes. Red point beach feels like it is in the back of nowhere and I am happy we eventually found it. Please use the ‘What 3 words’ details below. I know, I know, I stress the importance of this app but it truly is a game changer. Red Point beach itself is pretty enough, however it has become a much publicised area due to social media attention and personally Mr W and I did not feel the magic that is portrayed online. Maybe this is due to the filters that videos and pictures are passed through these days or maybe the red sand is better highlighted on a sunny day. Either way, the huge sand dunes make for a hilarious hike and the nearby farmers fields have lots of cute cattle to say ‘Morning’ to. As my itinerary says, wild swimming is possible at Red Point Beach and as my highlight of Day 7 will reiterate, swimming in Scottish waters is the best experience! You reach the beach via a farmers field but other than the dunes it is not a strenuous walk. 

From here take the short drive to Victoria Falls, another signposted location on the NC500, and take in one of the most accommodating car parks so far. The pathways that lead to the well placed viewpoints are recently laid. The views of Loch Maree from all points on the pathway are fantastic. Due to the short walk from the car park to the viewing area this place is popular! Do not worry if you have to wait for a car park space. Although small, the car park does empty relatively quickly. I implore you to take your time at both the wooden viewing platform and the monumental spot at the very top. 

It is a very short drive to the next destination of Glen Docherty viewpoint, however on route there is an excellent toilet block funded by the local community in Kinlochewe (W3W flattered.squirted.presented). There are lots of recycling options in the car park should you need to unload car rubbish and there is a tap supply of fresh drinking water. Please donate to the upkeep of the toilet block. 

Make sure you have lunch for the next stop as you take in the Glen Docherty Glen from your car. We stopped here for such a long time watching the winding road, hillsides and Loch Maree in the distance. We saw deer grazing on the steep slopes and were utterly entranced. Eat lots of delicious food and drink it all in. The next destination of the day is not for the fainthearted. 

Please take the route through Torridon for the most awe-inspiring scenes in Scotland. This is true untouched wilderness and there were at least a dozen times I wanted to jump from the car and go running through the landscape. You will soon find yourself on the approach to the Bealach Na Ba where huge metal signs take care to label all warnings to the road across the Applecross Peninsula. It is a very well known spot in Scotland and is almost a rite of passage to all NC500 travellers. We travelled in an SUV and found the going easy however anything bigger and older would make it different for sure. Different is the only word I can find to describe scary but with an aim to push you to just do it anyway! Take your time, ignore people trying to speed you along and take notice of where and when you are and aren’t allowed to stop/pull over. This road is to be appreciated by your eyes and fear responses. Your phone and camera comes second. The view from the top is absolutely breathtaking. There is an air of community spirit and happiness for all the drivers at the viewpoints. Many people turn around and head back the way they came. However, if you feel like stopping for the day and having a completely chilled evening, carry on to Applecross itself.  

Highlight 8 of the NC500 – Hartfield House Hostel
NC500 Day 7 – Itinerary
NC500 Day 8 – Red Point Beach, Victoria Falls and the Bealach Na Bà

NC500 Day 6 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series. I hope these have been of some help so far and thanks for returning!

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

This is the itinerary for Day 6 of our NC500 road trip. 

Smoo cave must be seen to be believed. With its green algae painted walls and beautiful waterfall this is a highlight on everyone’s NC500 itinerary. Entrance to the cave is free and is reached via some steps that lead you down the cliff face from the free car park. There are also some not too shabby free toilets in the car park which I have come to love in Scotland. There are so many facilities everywhere you go! There is also a little honesty box that the neighbouring house has set up. I bought a knitted green hat for £4 and there were other items that were of equally good value. 

I liked getting here early to beat the crowds and have the cave almost to ourselves. Even though it was early enough and the cave was quiet, the car park was full. Much like other sites in Scotland, parking space was taken up by the odd RV and it was quite small anyway. To save you time and frustration, start your day early! Close by is a food van that sells Cheese toasties, unlucky for us, we didn’t see it on our visit, but I have heard wonderful things and I spoke to the guys over on their Instagram page and they seemed real friendly. 

From here we originally planned to head to the Sango Sands viewpoint which is only a 4 minute drive away. Sango Sands is a big complex with facilities for Rvs and campers and is well known on this route. The viewpoint is reached through the complex and gives you a view down to the water and its neighbouring coast. As you may have come to expect after reading these blogs, there was only a brief description alongside a postcode for this stop and we found ourselves pulling up at another beach entirely. Durness beach is very close to Sango Sands, from the hill above the beach you can actually see the viewpoint to the west. This is going to divide opinion on which view is best. But in my very honest opinion. I did like seeing the view from Durness. You are above the beach and see its white sands in full. If you are at the Sango Sands view point, you are looking at it side on and personally I don’t think it is as beautiful or captivating. There is also the chance to traverse the sandy slope here and go wild swimming in the turquoise waters. Can’t go wrong with that can you? There is a small, well maintained car park that you do need to pay for. This will be the deciding factor for you on how long the day will be as to how you spend your time at this beach. Pack a wetsuit and jump in.  

When you decide to warm your bones by moving on, head to Kylesku bridge. There are car parks at either end of the bridge however I had given directions to just one as it gives a better view of this concrete monolith and also has a food truck offering a posh fish menu. The views here are amazing and you will be here longer than you anticipate. There are benches but no toilets. 

From here keep journeying south to one of Scotland’s hidden gems. You can view Wailing Widow Falls from the riverbed it cascades into and from Loch Gainmhich that feeds it from above. Please take extreme care when walking along the river bank to the waterfall. I have covered our experience in my ‘Highlight’ blog from this day and linked it below. The riverbank walk itself is extremely difficult for those not used to very muddy and unstable paths. The walk above next to the loch is much easier but you need to be very careful at the edge of the loch when looking down to the waterfall. The whole area surrounding the loch and waterfall is very boggy and unsteady. Walking boots are absolutely necessary and it would be wise to take extreme caution. There are two laybys for these walks, the first for the waterfall is more like a grassy layby that has been formed overtime by visitors. The ‘What 3 words’ app is very useful for these two visits. 

From here make the very short drive to Ardvreck Castle where there is ample layby parking on either side of the road. It is quite boggy here in places but the easiest of all walks today. On one side of the road is the Castle and on the other is Ardvreck waterfall which is a small yet powerful beauty. It is quite clear in certain places of Scotland that some visits are not advertised by the Scottish tourist board and because of this certain walks have not been made safe for visitors. It is also apparent when wire fences have been trampled over in order to reach a river as is the case in Ardvreck. It definitely makes you feel as though Scotland is a new world only just coming to light.

Staying in Lochbroom or Ullapool will suit tomorrow’s itinerary best.  

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/14/nc500-day-5-itinerary/

NC500 Day 6 – Smoo Cave, Wailing Widow Falls and Ardvrech Castle
Highlight six of the NC500 – The weakness in me

NC500 Day 3 – Itinerary

Hello and welcome back to the Scotland itinerary series. 

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

Day 3 of our trip was altered slightly due to the reshuffle of our Loch Ness Cruise due to the Queens funeral. Instead of tucking something else into the itinerary we gave ourselves more time in each place and set pace for a leisurely day. It meant we got back to our accommodation in Strathpeffer much earlier than intended and definitely helped ease us into this mammoth trip. This little day can be as long or short as you want it to be. 

Reelig Glen is a quaint little space with easy walks to boot. We did the tall trees trail which takes you close to the river which ultimately is where our interests lie. It is a simple root with unbroken ground and slightly steep hills. Going in the morning means you get the place almost to yourself. When we arrived at the car park there was only one other vehicle to keep us company and it was the same story as when we left. There is no charge for the car park and there is a board with the two trails mapped out clearly upon it. 

As we soon noticed on our journey through Scotland, online advice often points you to an address simply by postcode. This obviously covers a large area of space and with instructions such as ‘halfways between this town and that’ can often be quite foreign to a city dweller. As in previous itineraries I am including the ‘what three words’ pinpoints to as many car parks and locations on this trip as possible. I downloaded the app before heading to Scotland and found it very user friendly. We found this app extremely valuable throughout this trip. You do not need to have a phone signal to use this method however we found we had great signals wherever we went. We were incredibly lucky in terms of signal. If mine would cut out Mr W’s was fine and vice versa. In light of this I would look into how you can use what three words app offline and then you are absolutely covered. 

Back to the itinerary. 

Head to Chanonry point if you have plenty of patience. This is a fantastic place to sit and look out. The waters here are popular for dolphin sightings and proof enough are the carvings of these beautiful creatures in the benches dotted along the beach. There is ample parking which costs £1 an hour. This is a popular place with Rv’s and I suggest you get there before midday to beat the amount of people who come here to sit, eat and watch the waters. There are bins on site too. Open to the water this site is unprotected from the wind, evident by the benches bending ever so slightly out of shape. Take a flask, sandwich and a pair of binoculars. We spent two hours here and although we didn’t see any dolphins we did see several sightings of seals which was just fantastic. If you want to make the chances of sightings more favourable, you can visit when the tides turn. There is advice that suggests the dolphins will chase the plentiful fish on a rising tide. Which is usually 1 hour after low tide. 

A very nearby visit will get your cold limbs working again with a short walk to Fairy Glen Falls in Rosemarkie. Should you find the ‘official’ car park full, don’t be deterred, there is another car park right next to the community run toilets. Both car parks at the time of our visit were free. The toilets too are free, however as they are community run, a donation is as you can imagine quite welcome. The walk to the waterfalls themselves is relatively easy and you return on the same path as you enter by. This is not one of the most remarkable waterfalls on this trip but undoubtedly has its merits and a beautiful walk on which to stretch your legs. It was particularly busy as we left as there is a caravan park between here and Chanonry Point. There were families heading to the falls on a leisurely afternoon stroll. I would say that children would have little trouble navigating this route, although those with pushchairs may struggle. 

Now, if you look at this day as a build up to the big kahuna. Rogie falls is the ONE that you’ll have been waiting for. The car park jumps out of nowhere so use the what three words app if you can. It is a big and free car park and again has public toilets. A godsend on long days like these!

The walk is very short but has some steep up and down sections. But believe me it is entirely worth it. There is a small stone wall with display boards as you reach the ledge of the gorge. You can pause here to see down into the aggressive waters below. The action however can only truly be enjoyed from the suspension bridge that crosses the river just a short walk away. I advise a phone lanyard so you do not drop your phone. Because you will need it. This place is absolutely stunning. Mr W and I both said that if we didn’t know any better we would have thought we were in Canada. To find out about our experience check out the links below. My advice is, wrap up warm, keep that camera/phone battery exceptionally high and give yourself more time than you think you need. On my last video my phone battery ran out and THAT is the only reason we left when we did. There are two trails here and naturally we took the shortest one as this is the reason we came to Rogie Falls in the first place. To see the spectacle here, it is advised to come in August and September. Please try to. It was amazing. I practically skipped back to the car in delight. 

There are no benches here but I found I could sit up on the stone ledge just to the side of the river and sat for as long as I could put up with the cold on my legs. Otherwise patience and grit will serve you wonders at this place. Focus on the very top pools of the waterfalls and try not to blink. 

Return to your accommodation for your second night in the area. Tomorrow. The true beginning of the NC500 begins!

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/08/nc500-day-2-itinerary/
https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/11/highlight-three-of-the-nc500-the-journey-upstream/

NC500 Day 3 – Reelig Glen, Chanonry Point and Rogie Falls

NC500 Day 2 – Itinerary

Hello and welcome back to the Scotland itinerary series. 

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

As you may have seen from the itinerary from Day 1 (link below) we started our trip on the eastside of Scotland which is quite unusual as it approaches the NC500 in an anticlockwise manner. Most tips tell you to combat the route in a clockwise form, however as we had plans in Edinburgh and we had plans to finish in the Lake District this worked better for us. Mr W had also heard a tidbit about travelling anti-clockwise too. In all honesty, everything I heard prior to our trip suggested that the east coast of Scotland is vastly different to the western side. In a way I would agree, they are very different. However, in the opinions I read it became quite obvious that people favour the west coast of the Highlands which is a shame. The east has so much to offer and I found it was just the best build up to the rest of the journey. It gradually envelops you into the route. The villages are pretty and the coastline is easier to navigate on foot. 

So without much ado, let’s continue with the itinerary. This was one of the easiest days in terms of navigation.

Day 2 was such a beautiful day filled with wonderful activities to help you stretch those legs as you introduce yourself to Scotland.

We ate in our hotel room in order to save time and money. We used our pre-packed oats and our hotel had a kettle so this really helped us. 

Start your day as early as sunlight allows. The Old PackHorse Bridge needs at least the beginnings of sunlight to fully appreciate. We made sure to get here mega early so we were alone and there was just one other vehicle in the car park when we arrived. The walk to the bridge is along the main road in the town of Carrbridge. It was very easy and yet packed a punch for those early morning thrills. To get the best view of the bridge itself there is a wooden staircase just a few metres off of the current bridge. Please take care using these stairs, they can be extremely wet. 

From here we journeyed to the House of Bruar which stands in front of the pathway to the Falls of Bruar. Parking is free. There is much advice online to use the toilets in this establishment as they are rumoured to be the ‘poshest’ toilets in the highlands. I cannot confirm or deny this fact as we were quick to leave after spending a lot more time on the hike than we originally planned. There is advice online about the walk itself. It says to turn left as you approach the first bridge on this walk. One thing I can advise to the unsteady on their feet is to cross the bridge and take the walk up the hill on the right hand side of the river. It is a steep walk which I for one could only tackle uphill. If I were presented with that steepness on the descent I would not have been happy. We did the loop walk anticlockwise in its entirety and still got to see everything. The descent on the left hand side had long stretches of large rocks embedded in dryer earth to walk down. This is something for you to consider as you approach this walk. 

Something I do wish we had done is visit the House of Bruar which is a huge complex of shops with clothing, trinkets and even plants. It looked so decadent and by the time we had returned from the falls it was really filling up. Maybe add an hour onto your day and take time to look around? I also spied a coffee area which would be a welcome treat after your walk!

Having spent so long at the falls, we head straight to Clansman Harbour, Inverness for our Loch Ness Cruise. Our cruise time was at 2pm. There are other times for the cruises so you could potentially get a cruise at 4pm if this suits you better. We went with the 50 minute Clansman cruise which was perfect for us. If we had had the time, we would have approached Inverness via Fort Augustus to give us the perfect introduction to Loch Ness. By doing this you will drive from Fort Augustus up the left hand side of the Loch to Canmans Harbour and be able to peek out at the water as you go. 

Not usually one to jump on the typical tourism bandwagon the cruise was a welcome relief from walking and driving. When you think of Inverness and Scotland in particular you, or maybe just I, always think of Nessie. So I just had to include this on our trip. It was relatively cheap and, as expected, packed with tourists. We had no trouble getting a seat. The only trouble was the grey sky and the condensation on the inside of the windows. It meant we didn’t see much of the Loch itself and as it is a looping cruise, you see the same bits out and inwards. Would I do it again? No. Am I glad we did it? Yes. It feels like a rite of passage for sure. I have linked the website below for you to book your tickets. The car park for the harbour is located across the road so don’t let the location fool you. Try and arrive ahead of your journey time as there aren’t many car park spaces and there are lots of people arriving by coach. There is a walkway that gives you safe passage under the busy road to the harbour. This is conveniently located next to a large ‘Nessie’ statue at the far end of the car park. A large gift shop can also be found at this location. 

Be aware, there are not very many gift shops on the route and therefore you should buy any desired trinkets when you see them. Prices remained similar in the few shops I did see. For example, magnets were generally £2.50-3.99.

After our brief cruise we made our way to Plodda Falls, which was well signposted on the approach. There is a charge for the car park which is very reasonable. We found there were quite a few midges here so grab those midge nets or deet sprays. We didn’t fare too badly on this entire trip but it is always good to be prepared. The waterfall here is exceptional and the observation deck is NOT to be missed. There are two trails you can try. The white marked Plodda Falls Trail and the green marked Tweedmouth Trail. Somehow we started on the white trail and finished on the green trail. I know I know, we did not start very strong on our trial following. But there are no complaints about doing it this way. If you have time constraints, definitely do the first trail and if unsure, just retrace your steps. 

A perfect end to a fantastic day! We stayed in Strathpeffer and booked in for two nights for the next few days’ activities. (Review to be linked below soon!)

Oh and your car will be absolutely filthy from the dusty, single track road to Plodda. Sorry about that! The Scottish rain will soon sort it right out.

https://www.jacobite.co.uk/tours

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/09/highlight-two-of-the-nc500-a-tall-observation/

NC500 Day 2 – Bruar, Loch Ness and Plodda Falls
NC500 Day 1 – Itinerary

NC500 Day 1 – Itinerary

Hello, we are back! What a trip and experience and just everything unimaginable. I almost feel the need to apologise to the UK at this point for previously thinking it had nothing to offer. Who would have thought covid restrictions and airline and airport issues would bring us so much joy in pushing us to try something new!

This is blog one of the Scotland itinerary series. Much like the Italy itineraries I shared with you, I will be posting the itineraries for this mammoth trip day by day so you can get a real feel for what this involves. I will be editing my original itinerary and including the new and improved version for you below. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

So let’s start shall we…

I had hoped we would dig into our pre-bought food supplies to have a breakfast of porridge on our very first day however having to be in the car at 5am did not warrant getting up at 4am for a more refined meal. I salute the previous buying of sausages rolls and fruit for the journey up from Essex the day before as we tucked into a much simpler breakfast. 

Having missed our opportunity to do Arthurs Seat in 2021, we drove to Edinburgh to complete our ticklist for the city. We planned to park in our trusty free parking spot in Kirkwood place, however despite arriving early we found this completely rammed. This may be due to it being a neighbourhood area and everyone still being in bed! However with quick googling skills I found a car park literally at the start of the walk for Arthurs Seat and also free on weekends. Highly recommended!

As mentioned in my Day One blog (link below) you will see that we stupidly took the wrong route. As a starting hike for this trip, we intended to keep it nice and simple and therefore wanted to take the blue route to the top of Arthur’s Seat. And yet you will not find any signposts for the different routes. The only advice I can give you is to take the grass route when everyone veers right. As you walk up the tarmacked path with the sloping hills of Arthurs seat on your right and the road on your left, you will climb a sloping hill that turns to the right. Above you on the left are some ruins with a mud path leading up to it should you like a quick look. Returning to the same path, this is where I found the path took a definite right hand turn and the shingle underfoot became larger and looser. This is where a sign would be posted for the blue/red routes. The blue route follows the pronounced grassy hill on the left and the red route is on the right. At our climbing time everyone was on the right and we sheep followed it unknowingly. We kept an eye on the grassy path as we climbed the rocky alternative and it was very clear from above which route would have been more favourable. By taking the blue/grassy route you make a slower, more gradual ascent up ol’ Arthur and definitely smoother. You will slowly curve your way up the grassy sides of the volcano before rejoining the red route for the last very short scramble. Whether you take the blue or red route, the last scramble is the same. There is no clear path to follow as it is literally a hands and feet climb across an expanse of jagged but small rocks. For ease I would return via the blue route, whether you used the red for the ascent or not. It is less busy and has better views of the top as you return to your car. 

Be aware once at the top there are no plateaus as such so put all your weight in your legs for those all important selfies and be prepared for the wind! This is a great little introduction to the hikes of Scotland.

Continue your day up the eastside of Scotland to the Cairngorms National Park. This is not a route to rush. We crossed the Queensferry Bridge which was just fabulous and please do take time when driving through Edinburgh to look at all the fantastic architecture. There are also beautiful tree-lined avenues just outside the city itself and I-spied a gorgeous park called South Inch Park that I could easily have spent an hour or so with a coffee.   

As you enter the Cairngorms the scenery dramatically changes and I feel it is a perfect start to your wilds of Scotland trip. The great thing is there are many many stopping points and they invite you to stop and drink it all in. I advise you to use as many of these as possible. During our time, there were lots of motorbike riders and sports car drivers on the snow roads and we wanted to be slow to take it all in. The laybys help you avoid the rushing for sure. 

Our aim was to drive through the National Park to Grantown on Spey for our hotel (link to review will be added below very soon) and stop at the Balmoral Estates for the walk to the Prince Albert Cairn. Unfortunately due to the Queen’s passing on 8th September the estates’ walks were closed. We did however check out the car park and found it much bigger than I initially understood it to be and it would be a shame if you miss this off of your itinerary. Therefore I have included the information for you below! Go for it! One day we will get there. 

Be very aware you are on the grounds of the royal house of Balmoral and flying a drone at the Cairn will be prohibited. 

I advise you to stay at Grantown on Spey as there are a lot of food options and it is the perfect starting point for Day 2 of my itinerary! We had some fabulous and much needed hot food to finish off the day. Recommendations coming soon. 

A lot of this day is dedicated to driving. The first slog of driving is uneventful but you make up for this with the stop and start nature of the second half. It is definitely a great introduction to what lies ahead!

NC500 Day 1- Edinburgh and the Cairngorms.
Highlight one of the NC500 – A royal goodbye

NC500 Day 12 – Glencoe and the Trossachs

Miles: 168 Wildlife: 1 heron. Camper Vans: 15+. Steps: 6883.

Cost of pre-bought food: £5.90 approximately

Extra costs: Breakfast £7.80, Dinner £51

This morning started like most on this trip. Eyes peeking out through tired lids. Brain starting  recalling the itinerary for the day ahead. And busy hands packing away various bags and brushing teeth. 

Last night, as part of a pre-emptive strike, I clicked on the website for the Ben Nevis gondolas to check if they were running today. As per advice a month or so ago I was to check arrangements on the day as they do not run in bad weather. So off I went only to find out the autumn timings had been brought in and they were closed on the very day we were meant to be there. I’ll admit it, I was quite ‘miffed’. Something about Ben Nevis is quite thrilling to me and losing this opportunity had not been taken lightly. Normally I would sit up and adjust the itinerary to compensate for the loss, but I physically could not stay away. Win win for the insomniac! 

Waking to Mr W’s alarm reminded me that he didn’t know about the change in plans. He was just as disappointed as me. The consolation at large is we are already starting to plan our return and this will just be added to the list of places we need to attempt again. 

While attempting to reshuffle the day, I noticed the Glencoe walk today wasn’t igniting a fire within me and I started to question why I felt so lacklustre. Was I too tired? I passed the plan to Mr W and he said the walk looked a tad boring too. We decided to change things up a bit. 

First of all, I had the best shower of our whole trip, spent time drying my hair and then treated Mr W to a pastry at the Rain Bakery in Fort William. He had the maple and bacon swirl while I went for my usual Pain au Chocolat. They were ever so slightly warm and hands down the best pastries we have both ever had. Truth be told, I wish I’d gone back and bought another. But hey, let’s hope they don’t go down the same route as other independent businesses and are still there when we return! Mmmm. 

Setting off later than normal was quite the gift and instead of seeing the Ben Nevis range up close and personal we tried to see it from afar. We parked in the Corpach loch car park and were thrilled, well I was, to see the Jacobite train making its first trip of the day in the distance. As we parked, I jumped out of the car and RAN to meet it at the level crossing. The same excitement flowed through my body as the locomotive came closer and funnelled its stream of steam into the cold morning air. To be that close again was just amazing and as we were now without a platform it just seemed so much bigger. I remember gasping in utter delight. We stopped while it passed and watched it disappear into the hills once more. Magical. 

Remembering what we had come for, we crossed the train tracks and walked towards the edge of the Loch. Across the vast expanse of water sat the Nevis range under thick clouds. The day, it seemed, was not being kind. However, you cannot win everything on these trips and the ability to be flexible is one I wish to wholeheartedly have one day. I’m getting there. With a nod to Mr W we left to say goodbye to Fort William. 

We took the time to drive down the length of Loch Linnhe and onto the famous Glencoe region. The sheer size of the mountains on the westside of Scotland have been indescribable and the peaks here are no different. Some rise up smoothly like hills and then there are the others that are dramatic and erupt out of the earth flamboyantly and all of a sudden. 

If I am completely honest, I wasn’t too blown away by the landscape. Mr W and I talked about it at length today. About how and why we felt a lack of connection to the day. There were several theories. Maybe we were homesick. Maybe we didn’t want to go home. Maybe the amount of tourists in Fort William and Glencoe was something we hadn’t yet experienced on the trip so far. Maybe we are just tired. They are all valid reasons. Maybe, just maybe, you can have too much of a good thing. The mountains in Glencoe are more green and grassy than their rocky, grey counterparts in north western Scotland and I think I do prefer those. It is a strange feeling to be underwhelmed in such a beautiful place. We have nothing like this in Essex. We don’t even have a waterfall. We have a man made lake near where we live. It is a fishing lake next to a playground. It’s not relaxing, nor is it amazing. I have chastised myself several times today when I’ve lost my ability to get excited.

We stopped to have a good picnic lunch from our supplies by Loch Tulla and after just a few minutes were surrounded by tour coaches and hoards of people posing for photos. After talking to one of the coach drivers, we were told that tours often start in Glasgow and head to Fort William and then onto Skye. I guess it gives people that don’t have time to tour round the exact snapshots of Scotland that they can go home and feel satisfied. It was then that we realised it may be the amount of people around us in the last few days that has diluted our experience. I truly believe this is down to the way we travel having changed and this is because of covid. It will be interesting moving forward to see how this affects international travel and city breaks. 

It helps to talk these things through and have someone you really can talk to. I know I’m very lucky. After hitting mile 2000 on this trip we made our way through the Trossachs National Park and through to the 3 Lochs Forest Drive. Originally not on the plans for today, it replaced the ‘boring’ walk and I was glad of it. We like the forest drive in Kielder Forest and hoped this would spark the same enjoyment. As we crept along the forest drive we found so many similarities to the site in Northumberland and when we came upon a clearing, we took the opportunity to fly the drone and stop for a leg stretch. Reading a nearby sign we found out that you can camp on the forest drive for £4 a night and it started us talking, once again, about the next trip up to Scotland. Due to constraints of weather and my back hurting, we have trimmed a few items out of the daily plans so far and aim to return as soon as possible to complete these things and of course add more!

Feeling rejuvenated, both mentally and physically, we head down through Glasgow for dinner and have just arrived at our accommodation. It has been a funny day. It’s not the last day in Scotland that I imagined but at the same time what I once imagined would be a goodbye is now a see you later. 

Tomorrow we drive down to the Lake District for our wedding anniversary. 

Until then, be kind to yourself, not everything deserves a smile, but you deserve everything.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/16/nc500-day-12-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/17/highlight-12-of-the-nc500-3-lochs-forest-drive/ 

Last photo by Dave Watson
Please check out his work on https://www.instagram.com/davewatson_uk/ or at https://davewatson1980.picfair.com

NC500 Day 11: Jacobite Steam Train, Loch Eilt and Glenfinnan Viaduct

Miles: 138 Wildlife: 5 deer and several jellyfish. Camper Vans: 10 or so. Steps: 9913.

Cost of pre-bought food: £3.50 approximately

Extra costs: Lunch £11.80, Dinner £16

Today was a really special day. Something I’ve wanted to do for such a long time. Something I thought only existed in a movie and yet the moment I found out its authenticity I couldn’t help but dream. And isn’t that what travelling is about? Achieving dreams?

We left Skye at 6am this morning and other than the odd early morning deer in the road, quite literally playing the deer caught in headlights, it was exceptionally quiet. It’s become quite the norm for us to be out in the dark chasing the map ahead of us and being alone in the sleepy streets. Even today, on day 11, it isn’t easy. One thing I cannot stress enough to anyone thinking of this trip and whether it is viable is just how intense the timetable is. When I release our itinerary in the coming weeks and the alterations we have made along the way please bear in mind there has not been a day in this second week where we have felt full of energy. There are no regrets to speak of, it is so amazing here that when you are out and about your energy flourishes, it is only when you stop that it falters. You, well I, lose the plot over something so minor. This evening, when we reached our hotel, ahead of schedule, whoop, we decided to crack open some tins of food for something other than a pot noodle. We have sweetcorn, potatoes and tuna.We stood by the car for quite some time tonight packing clothing, food and valuables. When the time came to sort out dinner, I looked around and realised the tin opener was still in the car. Over the past week or so we’ve always forgotten something or another in our home on wheels, and yet tonight it tipped me over the edge. Add one cup of tiredness, one cup of exhaustion and mix into an already crazy lady and you’ll find a resemblance of the girl who sat in front of her husband upset. 

Obviously, he said it was fine. And obviously, said it was normal to not be perfect. I’m still learning to give myself a break when it comes to mistakes. It’s a slow process for sure. 

Let’s continue with what we did today shall we?

Our first drive of the day was a big one. Well, a lot bigger than recent drives have been. The drive itself took 2 ¾ hours, it did include a pitstop on a bridge so we could change our clothes. It was the first parking space we found when we could see what we were doing. The sky was lit nicely enough but by god was it cold. The last 36 hours or so have changed rapidly in temperature and we are in single digits for the first time. Changing from my joggers into a dress on the side of a cold road was definitely an experience, especially when trucks that blasted by were sending the spray up from the road. 

But it was of no real importance. I just wanted to look more like me than a scabby foot today. That’s another thing about doing these kinds of intense trips. You end up wearing simple clothes, no makeup and life becomes more about function than pretty. Clothing you don’t mind getting muddy, wet and even really sweaty!

Oh aren’t I the chatty one tonight. Go big or go home eh? Another hot chocolate for fuel, sil vou plait.  

So, dressy dress on, hair brushed and face made up, we parked up in Fort William at just past 9am and waltzed over to Tom-Na-Faire station. The excitement for one of us was very real and Mr W said it was palpable.  As the minutes ticked by, the queues grew and then, there she was. With her big black locomotor and deep burgundy carriages. The Jacobite Steam Train is popular due to how it inspired a certain author in her books. It is heavily impregnated in the Harry Potter books. The train takes Harry to school on his first day at wizarding school. The train is called the Hogwarts Express and just being near it felt magical. I felt like I had received my invite to study at Hogwarts castle and after 25 years of waiting, I was finally on my way. The platform was full of Potter and train enthusiasts alike and I was all of a dither flying around posing for photos and squealing at the steam emitted from the chimney. 

Finding our seats we settled in for the 2 hour journey to Mallaig. There was a man with a food trolley who asked ‘anything from the trolley?’ and a souvenir lady who came down the carriage. And then we crossed the very real viaduct that you see in so many of the films. Notably in the Chamber of Secrets when Ron and Harry drive their flying car up and over the moving train and down and through the viaduct arches. It is absolutely iconic and just to travel over this icon was amazing. The 9 year old girl who lives somewhere inside me was very happy indeed. 

A girl in front of me was equally excited and bought a chocolate frog and Bertie Bott’s every flavour beans from the trolley and we laughed as she tested the beans. She offered me one and laughed as I gagged at the taste of cabbage which was meant to resemble rotten egg. It was nice to be around like minded people. Harry Potter has long been a book series I return to when I am in need of comfort. I share the love of these books with my dad and many friends and believe they will stand the test of time. 

Alighting at Malliag, we wandered the harbour staring out at the water, as we have become accustomed to do, and watched the men working on the boats. Piles of fishing nets decorated the pier with their bright greens and blues. Looking down into the water I saw some seaweed floating and then something altogether more surprising next to it. A jellyfish. Brown and white, contracting and relaxing its body to ‘swim’ along. The surrounding water then came to life with even more jellyfish. Some bigger and more even bigger. Unbelievable really. You learn something new everyday. Mr W was chuffed, he has never seen one before. It is moments like that that you can’t prepare for. 

After a quick snack and exploration of the ‘Harry Potter’ store Haggard Alley, we boarded the train for the return journey. The train was quieter now and although absolutely amazing, the excitement of the morning had evaporated some and the smooth journey plus the warm carriages were making its occupants sleepy. Rain dashed itself against the window as we passed lochs, rivers, waterfalls, mountains and waving passerbys. Just to be sat there, in the very storylines that have comforted me for so long was really emotional and I felt the lifetime of dreaming was now complete.

It doesn’t matter if something seems childish, some people may think they are children’s books and movies. But the truth is, they spoke to me then and they still do now. When you live with anxiety you will often return to a subject matter, like a book or a movie as a form of comfort. It is comforting because it is familiar. It warms your heart. It is safe. Loving a story like this stays with you whether you are 7 or 70. So today, my 9 year old self was given the reins and my 34 year old self was so very happy. 

Mr W lets me be those people. It is important. Which is why after reaching Fort William, we raced in our car to the next port of call. 25 miles away from Fort William is a particularly important island for Potter fans. In fact, not too many people know about it. On the eastern side of the loch you will spy a very small, tightly populated with trees island. 

There is no parking per say but should you follow the link (at the bottom) it’ll take you to somewhere you can park which is a very short walk from the ‘viewing’ area. Pack waterproof shoes. Wander through the trees and you’ll see it as soon as you look up. The island is where Dumbledore was buried in the movies. It is THE very island. The movie makers filmed this island and then superimposed it onto a bigger loch for the movie. It is a representation of the man who we all loved as a kid. The man who guided Harry until the very end. I walked through a bog to reach my viewing point and while Mr W looked on I stood looking out in awe. It was a very personal experience. One that not many would understand. But for those that do, please go.

 

Shaking the mud off my boots, it was back to the car for another race against time. We had 40 minutes to reach the Glenfinnan visitor centre car park and head up into the hills behind it. There was no precise time being dictated to us, but miss our window and it would be another long trip back to witness this wonder. We marched for over 30 minutes uphill to get the best vantage point and turned to look back at our trial. It starts in the car parks, follows the river, passes under an arch, turns and sweeps you up a steep muddy hill. 

And there you are. Looking down at the curving Glenfinnan viaduct. You are on top of the world. Literally. When will it come? You sit, stand, pace in excitement. Time ticks by. 5 minutes. 10 minutes. 20 minutes. The amount of people on the surrounding hills grows. They too know what is coming. Out of the silence you hear the sound. And then there she is. With her black engine and burgundy carriages. The ‘Hogwarts Express’. Passing over the viaduct emitting her steam. The whistling is loud enough to hear even up at this height and you trace it, without blinking, along its pathway. The steam is pure white. The carriages gleam. The passengers wave. It snakes its way around the viaduct and disappears into the foothills of the surrounding mountains. 

And you are enthralled. Happy to finally be here. Lifelong dream accomplished. 

As we drove to our hotel, we saw the sunset sending pink clouds over the top of Ben Nevis and I realised magic is everywhere as long as willing to see it.

https://what3words.com/hoods.skirting.spurring

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/15/highlight-11-of-the-nc500-the-hogwarts-express/


https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/14/nc500-day-11-itinerary/

NC500 Day 10 – Fairy Glen, Quiraing and Mealt Falls

Miles: 131. Wildlife: an otter. Camper Vans: 50+. Steps: 9543

Cost of pre-bought food: £3.70 approximately
Extra costs: £18 for dinner and £8 for lunch

As I changed my walking boots for something less bulky and smelly tonight I noticed a stone lodged in the tread. As I went to remove it, I paused, why remove it? Let it stay there as a reminder of this trip. This marvelous, close to ending, trip.

I’m happy to say the itinerary changed a lot today. We started the day four hours later than planned after staying in bed to avoid the rain. We did the itinerary in reverse and cut some stops out due to time and weather restraints. The biggest loss was the walk up the Old Man of Storr. It was gutting but sometimes that’s what happens. You can’t control the weather but you can control how you react to it. We already know we’ll be returning here and have it in mind for then.

So, what did we do today?

Well, avoiding the rain didn’t exactly go to plan. But let’s start at the beginning.

We drove the 90 minutes to the Fairy Glen in Uig, although it took quite a lot longer due to trying to find a deli or cafe for a snack. There is certainly slim pickings on the island and 50% of the places we found were closed for the rest of the year. We eventually found a shop and praised it for having the typical road snacks everyone requires.

Onwards! We made it to the Fairy Glen at midday and were surprised to see how busy the car park was. The Isle of Skye is definitely busier than any other place we have stopped on this tour. We spoke to our accommodation host this evening and he said most tourists go to Edinburgh, Loch Ness and Skye. If they do it all at once or over time I’m not sure but it certainly makes sense with the changes we have seen. For instance the car parks are mostly paved, taken care of and are not free. This was not the case on the mainland. We’ve spent more here on parking than the entire trip so far. It’s mad.

Anyway, we dressed to protect us against the strings winds sweeping the land and started our walk. As we walked up one hill to look down into the glen, you guessed it, the rain came. Prepared we continued on our way until the rain dropped off my nose. Sheltering under trees we waited a while until we called time on it. Disappointed at being thwarted again we head back to the car. While drying off, blue skies soared over us and invited us back to the glen.

The glen itself is exceptionally strange and only from a great height can you really appreciate the landscape. The lumps and bumps that protrude from the earth are fascinating. As the weather started to decline and the routes up into the mounds were really slippery we decided to send up the drone and ‘Marv’ caught a few pictures before the rain returned. Satisfied that we had given it another try we returned to the car once more.



Ten minutes later we parked up for another walk. Rha waterfall is absolutely awe-inspiring. It is really easy to find. A very short walk and just great. It hides behind some cottages and provides such a loud roar that it prevents you from worrying and thinking about life. I should think that if I were to live near a waterfall it would be my escape. Just somewhere to sit and let go of all my anxieties. The noise of the water would drown them out. Perfection.


Happy that the weather had improved and that the walk was short we drove to the next stop. Another car park, another charge, but wow the Quiraing viewing point is seriously amazing. You can literally see where the land has slipped. It’s really difficult to describe. But there are monoliths of rock and earth jutting out at all angles and shapes.

The grass caresses every one of the waves of land and it is truly indescribable. It is also one of the windiest places I have ever been. I had to stand behind Mr W twice just to hide from the onslaught and compose myself. Hands red raw and hoods soggy we clicked away with our cameras and stood in quiet awe. I think when we come back it would be a stop to return to. There is a 3-4 hour hike towards the rocks called The Prison and The Needle. They, like the Old Man of Storr, look absolutely iconic and what is life but to want to be near an icon and gaze upon it at one’s leisure.



When Mr W’s hands regained their feeling we made the next very short drive to Mealt Falls. The car park is free! Wahey! After missing the view of Talisker waterfall crashing down the cliffs yesterday due to the visibility I am ecstatic to say that this cliff dropping waterfall was seen in all its splendor. It’s spray was sent our way via the wind and I did not mind one bit! The crashing water on the rocks from the sea met the water from the falls and it just felt magical. Another scene from a movie. I’m sure I’ll remember what movie at some point but maybe you will know where you have seen something similar!



With a pat on the back for making it to 80% of our visits today, we treated ourselves to our second visit to Portree for their tasty chips and watched love on the harbour as we ate. There was no seal bobbing about today but just watching the water was enough for us. The waters here are tidal but as the wind blew against the surface different shapes appeared and made for great entertaining. The fishing boats all swayed in the moving waters and cormorants dived for their next meal. Someone beyond our line of sight was playing the bagpipes and the with the seagulls calling it made for a very surreal moment. I’m kind of in love with the whole picture.


As we drove back to our accommodation we stopped numerous times to take photos of the sun changing the colours of the mountains, lochs and clouds. Pink hues were replaced with milky blues and mountains became silhouettes against the neighbours. Our journey was extended time after time with every click of the camera. We spoke about how much this trip had meant to both of us. We have two days left in Scotland before our trip descends into England. With everything that has happened with travel due to covid I find myself wondering if we ever would have found our passion for hiking and rural retreats on our own. It has changed so much about our lives for the better.

Stopping again for more photos, I glanced down at the water searching for those yearned for fins and I saw movement in the water. It was too close to shore to be anything big. Lifting my binoculars I watched as a slinky body climbed out and up some rocks. An otter. The first I’ve ever seen in the wild. It’s as if it knew I needed a pick-me-up after my sadness about leaving had left me quiet.

And then he disappeared. Leaving me with my new smile and a beautiful memory.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/13/highlight-10-of-the-nc500-the-quiraing/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/10/nc500-day-10-itinerary/