This is it. The very last blog of our NC500 trip in Scotland.
As I explained in the last itinerary, the day’s plans changed and we spent quite a bit of the day in the car taking in the sights. I’ve since come to realise that we opted to avoid the crowded spaces as we weren’t quite used to them after a very quiet trip otherwise. It became very clear from our journey south from the Isle of Skye down to Glencoe that we were one of the many vehicles on the road and we both longed for the slower paced days from the first week of the trip.
I’m not sure what it is about crowds that has us both clamouring for some quiet, it may be covid and its many lockdowns, it may be how used to space we have gotten on our recent hiking trips to Northumberland. We could speculate for a very long time about the whys and hows. The fact remains after being so quiet, we weren’t prepared for the big crowds on the popular resorts we were travelling through on day 12.
That being said, arriving into Stirling to find the 3 Loch Forest Drive was as big a revelation as driving the NC500. The roads were smoother and much narrower but we didn’t see another soul for miles. Turning into the Forest Drive afforded us the much needed time to explore some beautiful woodland without feeling the rush of the roads we had experienced that very morning.
The route through the forest is very short and we saw several small signs along the way marking camping sites. Baffled about what this meant, we pulled over at an absolutely stunning picnic spot and praised the phone signal that was reaching us. A quick look online told us that you can camp in this area for a ludicrously small fee. Mr W and I got to talking about our already ‘in the works’ return trip to Scotland. There were so many sites to pick from when putting our plans together that we had to pick our very favourites. However it was always in the back of my mind that a return trip may be on the cards and therefore the research we didn’t use was kept intact for future use. And there we were on our last day of the NC500 talking about returning to this spot to try our hand at camping in Scotland.
I remember the time spent at that picnic area fondly, while Mr W flew the drone over the loch. I took the time to find order in the chaos of the car. I also changed for our meal later that evening. I smile now when I look back at the drone footage from that afternoon. There was no rush to head home or onto the next stop. It was comfortable. We had found our rhythm again. Amongst the trees and the calls of the birds we came to life.
Travel really is such a blessing that we often take for granted. In 2020 we were so unbelievably grateful for the chance to travel to Italy in between lockdowns. In 2021 we spent a lot of time in the UK hiking. The Scotland trip of 2022 was our longest and most intricately planned trip we had ever taken as a couple. It was when we started talking about future trips, including the return to Scotland, that I was reminded of how lucky we are. A place that can stop you in your tracks and remind you of how fortunate you are is really special.
There isn’t any one special place that does that for everyone collectively. So this highlight is about how it affected me and how I believe that when we travel we all find those places that draw out the best in us. This blog is a celebration of all those place we have found and loved and to the places we are yet to explore.
The plague of high internet speed is how far we’ve come to travel the world while on the comfort of our own sofas. We find the top 10 places to see when we travel to a city somewhere on this planet and end up down a wormhole filled with pictures and reviews. Unknowingly we see everything about the place we are visiting before we even set foot there.
Occasionally it means that when our very real foot sets foot in the very real site we are visiting we are underwhelmed or just confirming what the picture has already shown us. It is definitely great for those with anxiety that need to know every step of their day and google maps is great for that. But it can take away those awesome moments of discovery.
This was not one of those times, this was a time on an itinerary where we were travelling from place A to B and we found ourselves saying ‘why not’ to a stop off in between. It wasn’t high on our list of places to see on the Isle of Skye and that may come down to the descriptions online not doing it justice. We had never heard of it either. We are under no illusion that just because we haven’t heard of somewhere doesn’t mean it’s not worth visiting. If anything this little beauty has taught us that it pays to visit the unheard of sites.
To try and do this highlight is tricky. The facts are: the Quiraing is a space on the Isle of Skye where there are a series of landslips. The Quiraing section is the one which still moves yearly. Awesome? I’m just not sure.
In person, it is a network of sloping grass kissed mountains with the odd jagged statue of rock reaching into the sky. The wind literally whips around your body, slaps you in the face and laughs at your thermal wear. There are views across to the mainland of Scotland and on occasion the sun will glint on the Lochs of Hasco and Fada.
This place quite frankly is indescribable. And that’s okay. For the first time, I’m imploring you to witness it for yourself to understand. Maybe you’ll do a better job of speaking the words that this place inspires in us.
And maybe just maybe, you’ll see a fighter plane on a training flight whip past you too.
Let’s crack on shall we, this is the itinerary for Day 10 on our NC500 tour of Scotland.
Our day changed dramatically due to the weather. So I’m going to give you our planned itinerary and you’ll be able to gain all information and thoughts about what we actually experienced here and on my summary of the day in the blogs linked below. Up until we arrived in Skye we had been very smug about how kind the weather had been to us and then… well, the waterfalls we had seen so far seemed to open above us.
Today’s plans are not for the faint hearted. It is a very packed and strenuous day with two big hikes in it. This may seem too much but it will open up all of Skye to you. The big attractions are all there for you to see and love. Enjoy!
A little advice on this one. You will want to check your sunrise/set times on this one. The activities at the beginning and end rely on seeing the sun on the horizon. I think it would create the most amazing views.
Start your morning in the dark and drive up to the Old Man of Storr. This is a hike we unluckily didn’t venture on. We sat in the car park for a long time determining whether we should attempt it as the day’s hours ticked on. We decided it wasn’t the timing we had planned and therefore left it to our return trip. I advise making this your first point of call and parking up before sunrise to guarantee a space in the very busy car park and to also see some of the most spectacular views over the Applecross Peninsula on the mainland when the sun makes its appearance. The car park charges £2 for 2 hours and there are toilets on site. Below are some pretty clear instructions to help you make this walk safely and without too much confusion. Snacks will be needed I am sure.
‘The path starts through the gate near the back of the car park.The wide path winds uphill through an area intended to regenerate with native woodland. Keep ahead/slightly right when the path forks although it doesn’t really matter as both join up later. The path passes through two gates to eventually reach the open moor with the spectacular cliffs of the Storr up ahead. The Old Man can be difficult to pick out from the cliffs behind from this point. Continue up the wide footpath. As more height is gained, look out for a clear path branching left; take this turning. The path contours a little before ascending, swinging right to climb up to the left of the Old Man. The next section of walk has some danger from rockfall – it should certainly be avoided after heavy rains. Follow a path that descends to pass around the back of the Old Man; the path is clear but crosses a short section of fallen rocks. This area – with towering cliffs and pinnacles all around – is known as the Sanctuary. Beyond the Old Man stands the Needle Rock – also known as the Cathedral, which has a window right through it near the top. Continue towards this, but turn right before reaching it to begin the descent. There are several variant paths at first but all soon join as the descent continues, passing well below the east side of the Old Man. Once back on the main path, follow it down to eventually retrace your steps back onto the made path through the felled area. Further down, you can turn right at the fork to follow an alternative, equally well made path for the descent section. This weaves about and passes a small lochan before rejoining the outward route. Continue down to return to the car park.’
Sounds impressive right? Even from the car park the view of the Old Man of Storr is impressive and should you get to experience this walk please let me know how it is. Please?
Make sure you have a big drink to replace all that expended energy.
The next stop is really easy so don’t worry about those achy legs. The car park is free (as of this blog) and it’s quite literally a minute’s walk away from the cliff’s edge. As mentioned in the previous days, itinerary sites on Isle of Skye are considerably busier than the mainland and you may therefore have a long wait for an up close photo opportunity. Be patient, it is absolutely worth it!
Unfortunately we didn’t go on the next visit. It is supposed to be great with actual dinosaur prints that aren’t roped off so you can get up close and personal. I know you are down at the water’s edge so take waterproof clothing and enjoy! Don’t linger too long, you have lots more to see and the next stop is the busiest point on today’s itinerary.
The Quiraing viewpoint is absolutely breathtaking. The smallest amount you’ll pay at the car park is £3 but you do get 3 hours. The car park is bigger than most on the island and although busy you won’t find yourself waiting long for a space to become vacant. On site there is a food van selling hot dishes to warm you up after the strong winds found here. You can spend anywhere between 20 minutes to 2 hours here. There is a hike which looked absolutely incredible from the viewpoint and if the weather had been kinder we would have definitely given it a go. Take note of the signposted areas to prevent you from quite literally slipping down to meet the land below. Wrap up warm!
Next, take the very scenic drive to Rha waterfall. You will find the road here very steep in places and much of it is single track so act as the locals do and be kind and courteous. It becomes second nature after travelling so much of the NC500 to accept the to and fro of the single track road however due to the influx of day tourists you may find some impatience forming. Remind yourself it is the journey not the destination and you’ll be fine.
I’ve given you two sets of details (both What3Words) to find Rha waterfall. One for the parking, which is free, and one for the gate which opens onto the short walk to the falls. This is a very short but rewarding walk. It is much less busy than other sites on the island and you’ll find yourself lucky to find some peace and quiet in this beautiful spot.
We found the next spot quite difficult to find and therefore I’ve given you another set of What3Words instructions. In most cases you will be given a postcode to find sites in Scotland. This covers a vast amount of space and with very little SatNav signal and/or phone signal it can become quite difficult to find places. I advise downloading the W3W app and using it offline as much as possible. The car park at the Fairy Glen in Uig is brand new and charges £2 for 2 hours. Which I think is a generous amount of time for this site. It is fairly straightforward walking around the base of these mounds. Take care if you wish to take a birds eye view, rain causes very slippery conditions and there are some fairly steep sections. As we arrived in the rain I know we didn’t fully appreciate this site which is a damn shame.
Now, the next and last stop of the day is a biggie. It’s one of the big reasons we will return to the Isle of Skye as we also missed this walk due to the weather. Neist Point Lighthouse is a 2 hour hike to the coastal area of northern Skye. There have been sightings of whales from here and in my opinion as a sunset chaser, it will be a wonderful end to a full but exceptional day. As we didn’t accomplish this walk I have given you the information below for the walk. I would like to think that a well trodden path would be easy to see but you never know!
‘Begin by following the path through the gate, which if locked can be easily walked round. Almost immediately turn left on the path, which then swings right to ease the descent to the headland far below. There is a metal handrail for most of the descent. Continue along the now level path. It is possible to detour to the right to visit the edge of the cliffs, overlooking the great prow of An t-Aigeach, the dramatic upstanding crag half way out on the headland. To the left are great views to the impressive cliffs of Waterstein Head and the Hoe, the second highest on Skye. At the highest point of the constructed path, a grassy path heads off to the right – this is an optional detour to the top of An t-Aigeach. If you decide to visit the top, take great care near the cliff edge, and retrace your steps back to the main path. As the corner is rounded the lighthouse comes into view for the first time. Continue along the path towards the lighthouse and the former keepers’ cottages. From the path junction, you can turn left along a made path to reach the crane and crane. It is also worth detouring across rougher pathless ground beyond the lighthouse complex to reach the furthest point. The return route is back the same way. It is worth detouring to the left from the path before it heads round An t-Aigeach to visit the cliff edge; from here you can watch seabirds in season but take care as the edge is, of course, unprotected.’
And there you have it. The top sites of the Isle of Skye in one day. I hope it serves you well. You deserve a big dinner and drink to toast the day.
Staying on the Isle of Skye means you need to just return to your accommodation and relax. Tomorrow we return to the mainland. Our journey draws to its conclusion. But for now, chill.
Hello! If you’ve been waiting for this blog I apologise. I’m not going into why I’ve been absent this time. I’m sure you grow weary of the reasons and are just going to continue reading about our Scotland trip. This is the highlight of day 8 and unlike several others this is based purely on the accommodation from Day 8. It was amazing!
I’d love to put a disclaimer right here about how we had been ‘gifted’ a stay at this hostel, first and foremost because we love a bargain but also due to the fact it would maybe explain my love for this place. It is often the case that a reviewer will receive a ‘kickback’ to some extent to help them write of their love of an accommodation.
As you know we do love a bargain however we were full paying guests and my opinions are based solely on our fantastic experience.
Hartfield House Hostel lies in the heart of Applecross. It is a large white building which shines like a beacon when the sun shines over the Applecross peninsula. Isn’t that just the mushiest stuff you’ve ever read?
There is a long winding driveway at the property and honestly my rising anxiousness at staying in a hostel only rose as we ambled on at the 10 miles per hour speed limit. All was forgotten as over the fences of a pasture ahead we saw the ginger and cream haired Highland Coo’s in all their glory. There they were, after over a week of being in Scotland. They slowly chewed their food while blankly staring at our approach. Our excitement was not shared by our soon to be new best friends.
Todays’ plans were strict in the sense of us arriving at the hostel. With check in at 4pm and only one washing machine and tumble dryer we were on a mission to be clean!
We were too early to check in, in fact the building was locked and so we took the time to check out our neighbours. I am ever so slightly obsessed with the Coo’s now. And I am sure I have way too many photos to share with you. But let the obsession reign supreme! I am sure they’d sooner trample me on my approach for a cuddle, stroke and loving gaze, so I am happy enough just sending my adoration from the fenced pathway. They did not care. More’s the pity.
Watching my watch carefully I raised the alarm to Mr W that check in would start in two minutes and so we returned to the huge building. As we approached the door and car came whizzing into the car park. She called over that she wouldn’t be a minute and I braced myself for what lay ahead. Our money saving schemes were behind us, we had scrimped and saved our way onto this trip, but living it was a different matter. What on earth was going to be beyond that door.
Countless times you will hear horror stories of hostels and how communal living isn’t always the cleanest. We had booked a private double room, well twin bedded room, and the toilet and shower facilities were down the hall to be shared with all other guests. The kitchen and communal spaces were also to be shared. I had visions flooding into my mind of ‘Kumbaya, My Lord’ being sung accompanied by some dreadlocked dude playing a guitar whilst others scraped together a meal of ramen and pickles. Stereotype much!
Check in was insanely easy and we were shown our room, literally walked to our room, when does that ever happen?
The room was huge. Much like the outside, the white walls absolutely shone in the daylight streaming in from the huge window and I stood absolutely astounded at its spotless nature. The beds, although not marriage friendly (though word from the wise, sleeping in separate single beds on an exhausting trip like this really does wonders), were comfy and inviting. Fluffy rugs were under foot and plugs situated around the room meant we could comfortably charge every device we had been reliant on for the trip so far. Sounds pretty normal right? Well, no, on this day, day 8, we had found our first modernised room and it was enormous. It had enough room for us, our bags and our tiredness to fit into! Now that’s something.
We took a moment to check out the bathrooms. The most ‘eeep’ inducing thing about the whole stay. Peeing in a public bathroom is not my forte. In fact I will still hold out as long as possible whilst out and about in London. On hikes I would rather pee in a field than try a public toilet and often do. It’s not necessarily just a clean thing. I think I have a shy bladder. Mr W is often the ‘lookout’ for such events and often thinks two seconds is enough of a warning for incoming walkers. For clarity, it is not. The bathroom was enormous with at least 5 toilet cubicles and 4 showers. It was insanely clean and spacious. I’m not sure what I was expecting exactly but this was far from it. It was bright and beautiful. Maybe I was expecting a dungeon. Maybe bugs.
On returning to our room we quickly decided on our form of attack for the pile of washing that had accumulated in the car. We had both only packed the very essentials for this trip and underwear was running scarce. Priority one! Then there was the clothing we had used multiple times in favour of others due to their durability and warmth. Lessons are learned on the road too kids! With two big bundles in our arms we made our way to the courtyard where the washing facilities could be found. An actual interior courtyard next to the huge glazed kitchen. Our mission to arrive on time had paid off, we were the first there. A cycle of washing and drying cost £5. As I’ve never been to a laundrette I can’t say whether this is normal or pricey but when you are paying £40 a night for two people I’m not sure it matters.
With our stomachs full from a dinner of noodles (not ramen but hey close enough) put together in a chef size kitchen area we played by the rules and tidied up after ourselves and washed and dried our dishes. We then broke the cover of our rooms and headed to the showers. Oh glorious hot water. How we take you for granted!
The cubicle was big, like for a party of 3 big, and I found myself not wanting to leave. I remember now that just the night before I had not showered due to an upset stomach and the massive need for sleep. If you have read the recap of Day 7, we had been at Achmelvich bay and my hair and skin was paying the price for being in the sandy and salty water. This shower was sent from heaven! There was someone in the cubicle next to me, I swear it was a man, the whistling just sounded manly if I’m honest and with the very shiny ceiling I’m unsure if he/they saw anything I had to offer but with the feeling of cleanliness washing over me I don’t think I cared too much. I’m not sure why a man would have been in the ladies showers but it really is hard to care when the hot water doesn’t end and the bubbles keep frothing and your hair is no longer a messy nest. I swear a seagull flew out at one point. Maybe.
Rather than walk the hallways barefoot and wrapped in a towel, I did that awkward shimmy into my trousers. Ya know the one where you’re standing on a wet floor and you dry the chosen foot as much as you can while holding your leg up and attempting to hop your way into said clothing. It’s hardly ever truly successful but always seems the more favourable option until you are face planting the cubicle wall. Feeling squeaky clean I emerged from the bathroom ready to conquer the evening.
We chose to end our night in the communal living area where I would write and Mr W would take some time ‘off’. We sat on our own sofas, next to the bay window and as the night closed around us only one other couple popped in for a look and then left.
I am under no illusion that hostels can be much busier and although we by no means visited out of season, the usual college and university students who meander through these places were back in their classes and we found ourselves the uncrowned kings of the castle. Having spent nearly two hours on our thrones and letting our freshly washed hair down, we pitter-pattered back to our room for a wonderful night’s sleep.
Robustly refreshed, we awoke exceptionally early the next day to leave. Even at 5am the smile of this place was not waning. Mr W and I, already agreeing on plans to return, retraced the road back to the peninsula road.
It is as if this place is the true prize at the end of the winding, butt clenching ride that is the Bealach Na Ba. Forget everything you think you know about hostels and book this place now!
The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself.
There are puddles of mud that threaten to spill over the top of your hiking boots, sheer drops into the pools below and more people than you have seen in the previous 8 days combined. Then… the heavens open. Struggling along the pathways becomes even harder as crowds retreat to their cars and your stubborn arse refuses to turn back. You are but a pebble trying to stand its ground against the strong incoming wave.
It does not make a blind bit of difference.
To your right are the Fairy Pools of the Isle of Skye. Further afield the towering Bruach na Frìthe and Sgùrr nan Gillean mountain peaks overlook the scene. Clouds roll over these monoliths and there is a sense of foreboding in the air. Yet your eyes search out the next cascade of water.
Something is pushing you on through the furor. Is it your constant quest for awe-inspiring scenes? Is it your stubbornness to tick items off that ever growing bucket list?
Maybe. Perhaps.
Neither or both. It really doesn’t matter.
You are here. Finally walking the landscape you’ve only ever witnessed online and it’s everything and more just to be here. It is everything to be outside hiking and enjoying moving your muscles and your body overcoming the pain it’s been experiencing in the throws of sciatica to keep going. This kind of movement isn’t punishment because you are living in a bigger body. It’s a reminder that despite your size you can do this. Despite your fear of sliding in the mud and tripping on rocks you still turned up and set your mind to do it.
Reaching the top of the pools with the rain lashing down you give a slight nod to yourself and how far you’ve come both geographically and physically. The crowds have dispersed and only the brave (or stupid) have continued. There is laughter in the air at the absurdity of it all. Why are we all drenched to the bone in this wilderness?
It is stunning. The sound of the water is very faint and almost lost in the deafening wind. Your hooded coat also blocks the sound from reaching your ears. It doesn’t matter. The vivid blues and greens on the riverbed shine like something from an alien planet. And you are reminded there and then that this is our planet. These are the sights that remind you of that fact. That this planet is beautiful and still harbours unbelievable wonders should you take a moment to go and hunt for them.
With every retracing step back down the hill, you take a moment to glance over the river and the different colours glittering up through the water as it ambles over the Scottish rock. There are purple heathers and tall yellow and green grasses. The river is not straight. It has not obliterated the terrain away. It has only ambled its way without any kind of plan. Occasionally there is evidence of a rock slide but where it has settled mosses and other fauna have sprouted. Starting new life and colour. The weaving of this river makes it impossible to see from one end to the other in one sweep. You need to appreciate each plunging pool and rapid movement as a singularity. In this way you can value every step and view. It changes and that’s okay. Take of that as you will.
Simply put, this is a river flowing down from a mountain. And you’re feeling happy.
That’s what travel does. Enlightens and inspires. It brings us back to basics and opens us up to everything we take for granted. That’s what I felt at those pools. There were no fairies. No magic. Just me, the mountains and my realisation that no matter my size, ability or thought process, I can wake up, get going and witness all the beauty around me.
The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself.
Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series. I hope these have been of some help so far and thanks for returning! The NC500 route around Scotland is, as you may have guessed, approximately 500 miles. From our starting point in Essex, up to the route, around the Isle of Skye and back home via the Lake District we covered 2800 miles. This journey will see you cover many many miles and have your eyes peeled back as far as they will naturally go. It is a joy to travel this route and explore every corner.
145 days ago we loaded up our car with as much long life food as possible, A LOT of wet weather gear and what we like to think were sensible purchases to make our experience in the wilds of the Scottish highlands as comfortable and safe as possible. There are other blogs on my page about our purchases and how we also kept the budget down. Keep tuned in for other tips and itinerary hacks.
The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below.
This is the itinerary for Day 9 of our NC500 road trip.
We stayed in Applecross on the evening of day 8 and if you haven’t read the highlight of that day, I would take a moment to read it before you decide on your accommodation!
Staying in or around Applecross will give you a good starting point for the amazing journey to the Isle of Skye. Below is a guideline for timings. There are also other visits I will suggest on this one as I have heard they’re amazing and unfortunately we didn’t make it this time.
Unfortunately our first stop of the day was closed but I have heard wonderful things about Manuelas Bakery (A87, Ardelve/Kyle IV40 8DY) which can be found on the approach to the Isle of Skye. They usually open at 8am and serve breakfast items which would be great for your journey. This place closes in the winter much like the rest of the highlands, so check out their social media pages to double and triple check that they are open. Do let me know what you think so I can incorporate this into our next trip!
Make your way to the Skye Bridge get ready for the busiest part of your journey so far. The Isle of Skye is used by many tourists as a place to see ‘all’ of Scotland in one place. There are lots of minibuses and car parks are very busy. Tour buses come here on 5 day trips from Glasgow and Glencoe. It provides people with enough insight to say they have seen Scotland without venturing too far from the main towns and airports. Each to their own and I’m taking this opportunity to warn you that you are in for a big awakening from the sleepy nature of the trip so far. Take it in your stride and remind yourself that patience is a virtue!
The main roads on the Isle of Skye are in excellent condition. Just watch out for the deer on those early morning drives. We had two very close incidents indeed.
From the Skye Bridge find your way to Coo View Point, if like me you have become enamoured with the highland cuties this is definitely a good spot to stretch the legs and take in the view and the love. Parking is more like a layby and as it is not signposted once again I have detailed the exact spot you’ll need using What 3 Words.
From here you’ll find it an easy drive down to Sligachan Bridge. The car park, although small, does empty out rather quickly owing to the very small attraction here. I advise you to allow yourself just a short amount of time here as there really is a limited amount to do and it is a small tick off the list of things to see today and the next stop needs as much time as you can muster.
The Isle of Skye Fairy Pools are exceptionally popular. We went in late September and yet the two car parks were very busy. There is a free car park on the approach to the second car park which costs £6. Now I know you will wonder why we chose the second car park and truth be told, we were just glad to be able to park at all. However in the second car park there was a new toilet block which we were exceptionally grateful for and it gave great views over to Bidean Druim nan Ramh. We did see the walk back to the first, free car park on our return from the pools and it was up a very steep road and after the 2.5 hours we spent hiking the area we were glad of our choice. The Fairy Pools are exceptional and I do wonder if they become easier to navigate in the drier summer months. I suspect people choosing to vacation within the UK during two years of disrupted travel has caused a lot of the muddy pathways to become as treacherous as they were and advise very sturdy footwear. There is so much to see and there are a lot of chances to swim in the pools. I advise going in with an open mind. This is the busiest place we went to on Skye.
From here there is a deviation from the itinerary below. A short 15 minute drive away is the Oyster Shed (W3W notifying.scored.pays.), serving you guessed it … oysters. I have heard wonderful things about this place and even though it was closed I would try and return when we are back in Skye. I advise checking their social media pages to double check when they are open and again this place will be seasonal.
Before you attempt the next walk, I advise food, keeping snacks in the car is a must while on Skye as there are very few shops dotted around and even fewer out of season. It’s peculiar to think of places having an out of season in late September and yet we found it to be the case very often. Although not particularly taxing, this walk does go on and on and I hope the pay off at the end is better for you than us. It rained the ENTIRE time. We literally walked through clouds. And yet it was still an experience that makes me laugh even now. The car park is very very small and at the time we were there only 3 cars fit. I have included the What 3 Words directions here as it is a blink and you’ll miss it kind of situation. I have tried to include the directions I used from google to guide you on your way, however should you have a phone signal using the W3W directions again (W3W aced.warned.relieves) to find Talisker beach would serve you well when you think you are lost.
‘At the end of the car park on the left hand side the public road becomes a private drive, follow the track. You will have a stone wall on your right hand side which is a large walled garden with mature trees overhanging the wall. On the left there is a grass bank. After a short walk you will get to the first metal gate, on the right by the wall there is a smaller gate head on through and continue down the drive with the stone wall on your right. You will get to a large white house with various outbuildings, the track continues on and remains clear in direction. Cross a concrete bridge and follow the track as it gently rises up to the second metal farm gate. Open the gate and head on through (carefully closing the gate behind you). You are now on the hillside where there is likely to be grazing sheep. The track continues with a slight raise. Looking ahead you will start to see the bay and the high cliffs that surround the beach. Follow the farm track which remains very clear. This track carries on to the beach and you can see most of the route ahead. Nearing the beach the track raises up towards an open gateway. Passing through the open gateway and turn right. Now with the beach in sight the path fades away. Cross a short grassy area to access the beach. The top of the beach is covered in rounded grey rocks, when the tide is lower a large grey sandy beach is exposed. On the right hand side of the beach there are high cliffs and a huge waterfall.’
I do hope your walk is better than ours as the pictures of Talisker waterfall online are absolutely stunning. Do let me know if you succeed!
After two big walks you deserve a much needed return to ‘civilisation’ and making your way to Portree does just that. Its tightly packed streets are beautiful and have several options for food. We chose to park on the Quay itself which is just next to the fish and chip shop. I highly recommend this place. There is no seating inside but grab your dish and use your dashboard as a table. You may be as lucky as us and spot a harbour seal swimming around the fishing boats looking for his next meal. ITs a beautiful spot to stop to watch the boats bob about and rest your tired feet.
Should you like one more small walk the Apothecary Tower (W3W symphony.spruced.passport) is nearby and offers views over Portree and the surrounding landscape. I haven’t included it in our itinerary below as we can’t give you a fair recommendation as we opted out of this one. We just needed to peel the soaking clothes from our bodies and sleep. Really we should have pushed ourselves. It is a ten minute walk from the quay.
Book a night’s accommodation on the Isle of Skye. Portree and the surrounding area will serve you best for tomorrow’s itinerary.
Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series. I hope these have been of some help so far and thanks for returning! It has been 121 days since we set off on our huge Scotland road trip. The NC500 route around Scotland is, as you may have guessed, approximately 500 miles. From our starting point in Essex, up to the route, around the Isle of Skye and back home via the Lake District we covered 2800 miles. This journey will see you cover many many miles and have your eyes peeled back as far as they will naturally go. It is a joy to travel this route and explore every corner.
121 days ago we loaded up our car with as much long life food as possible, A LOT of wet weather gear and what we like to think were sensible purchases to make our experience in the wilds of the Scottish highlands as comfortable and safe as possible. There are other blogs on my page about our purchases and how we also kept the budget down. Keep tuned in for other tips and itinerary hacks.
The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below.
This is the itinerary for Day 8 of our NC500 road trip.
Today’s itinerary is completely relaxed owing to the heavy first 7 days. I am for the first time including our accommodation as I will cover this in the next blog, ‘Highlight eight of the NC500’. Should you choose to stay outside of Applecross after travelling the Bealach Na Ba you’ll have plenty of time for the extra driving.
Starting your day from Aultbea means your first drive of the day should take approximately 50 minutes. Red point beach feels like it is in the back of nowhere and I am happy we eventually found it. Please use the ‘What 3 words’ details below. I know, I know, I stress the importance of this app but it truly is a game changer. Red Point beach itself is pretty enough, however it has become a much publicised area due to social media attention and personally Mr W and I did not feel the magic that is portrayed online. Maybe this is due to the filters that videos and pictures are passed through these days or maybe the red sand is better highlighted on a sunny day. Either way, the huge sand dunes make for a hilarious hike and the nearby farmers fields have lots of cute cattle to say ‘Morning’ to. As my itinerary says, wild swimming is possible at Red Point Beach and as my highlight of Day 7 will reiterate, swimming in Scottish waters is the best experience! You reach the beach via a farmers field but other than the dunes it is not a strenuous walk.
From here take the short drive to Victoria Falls, another signposted location on the NC500, and take in one of the most accommodating car parks so far. The pathways that lead to the well placed viewpoints are recently laid. The views of Loch Maree from all points on the pathway are fantastic. Due to the short walk from the car park to the viewing area this place is popular! Do not worry if you have to wait for a car park space. Although small, the car park does empty relatively quickly. I implore you to take your time at both the wooden viewing platform and the monumental spot at the very top.
It is a very short drive to the next destination of Glen Docherty viewpoint, however on route there is an excellent toilet block funded by the local community in Kinlochewe (W3W flattered.squirted.presented). There are lots of recycling options in the car park should you need to unload car rubbish and there is a tap supply of fresh drinking water. Please donate to the upkeep of the toilet block.
Make sure you have lunch for the next stop as you take in the Glen Docherty Glen from your car. We stopped here for such a long time watching the winding road, hillsides and Loch Maree in the distance. We saw deer grazing on the steep slopes and were utterly entranced. Eat lots of delicious food and drink it all in. The next destination of the day is not for the fainthearted.
Please take the route through Torridon for the most awe-inspiring scenes in Scotland. This is true untouched wilderness and there were at least a dozen times I wanted to jump from the car and go running through the landscape. You will soon find yourself on the approach to the Bealach Na Ba where huge metal signs take care to label all warnings to the road across the Applecross Peninsula. It is a very well known spot in Scotland and is almost a rite of passage to all NC500 travellers. We travelled in an SUV and found the going easy however anything bigger and older would make it different for sure. Different is the only word I can find to describe scary but with an aim to push you to just do it anyway! Take your time, ignore people trying to speed you along and take notice of where and when you are and aren’t allowed to stop/pull over. This road is to be appreciated by your eyes and fear responses. Your phone and camera comes second. The view from the top is absolutely breathtaking. There is an air of community spirit and happiness for all the drivers at the viewpoints. Many people turn around and head back the way they came. However, if you feel like stopping for the day and having a completely chilled evening, carry on to Applecross itself.
Your shoe bound foot sinks into the pristine expanse before you. It has been years since you’ve been in this situation. You feel like a child that has made a new discovery. You release your feet from their prisons and venture onto the whitest sand you have seen since your honeymoon. It is cold but soft like cotton. This must be a dream.
Leaving the car and boardwalk behind you, you feel the wind whip the tangling hair around your face and praise the chosen warm outfit of the day. As the sea retreats from the coast it leaves an untouched surface of shoreline. Even the grey clouds, that occasionally block the sun’s path to the sand, do not stop the glow of its purity. All at once you wish you could float so you can leave this piece of perfection as is and yet you are filled with joy to feel its beauty beneath you.
As you emerge from between the sand dunes you see the exceptionally calm and clear water ahead. This place is anything but normal. The sun peeks out from behind the racing clouds overhead and the whole scene explodes with colour. A hop, skip and a jump from the shoreline the waters turn turquoise. TURQUOISE!
This is my highlight from Day 7 of our recent trip to Scotland to drive the NC500 route. Can you actually believe this place is in Scotland. Scotland, Uk. The United Kingdom!
Before any kind of suspicion arrives in your mind, dear reader, my disbelief is not in some way an insult to Scotland. Of course these beautiful places can be found anywhere in the world. However, my shock, even now, lies in the fact that it has taken me over the 34 years that I have resided on this planet and in this country, to come to that conclusion. With the filters available online and on Instagram, it is often the case of finding something before you that looks nothing like the images online. Which is why I was so pleasantly surprised and shocked that Achmelvich Bay is even better than any picture I had previously seen. Although our photos look pretty damn good! ‘A’ List photographers that we are.
I have been exceptionally lucky in my life to have travelled to some pretty stunning shorelines in my life.
Cape Tribulation in Australia. Where the Daintree rainforest meets the cool blue waters that also house the Great Barrier Reef.
Three islands in the Maldives. The white sand mixed with crushed shells and coral.
The vast beaches of the Dominican Republic.
The list goes on.
But somehow, Scotland’s Achmelvich Bay transfixed my soul. Could it be the amount of time (4 years) since our last pristine beach visit? Or the freedom from the car on such a huge road trip?
Or could it quite simply be this…
Lockdown was bloody hard. 2020 and 2021 were hard. 2022 felt like it was one tentative step after the other. Watch out for potential landmines! The constant up and down nature of the news and information being thrown at us from all angles had a way of defeating, healing and crushing and restoring hope all at once. No one I know came out of those two years unscathed. And yet on that beach, it just disappeared.
It has to be said that for the few hours we paused our trip in that Bay, there were only four other visitors on the sand itself. Two braved the waters like we did. One lady stopped by for a chat. And another paddled up to her knees. In a way, Mr W and I felt like it was our own perfect paradise. It welcomed you like an old friend.
I have journeyed back to that beach many times since returning home. Albeit it from the luxury of my sofa. We know we will soon be returning to Scotland and its wondrous 500 mile route and even though there is so much more to see and explore, one thing is for sure, our feet will take us back to that paradise to once again feel in awe of this astounding country. That in itself is one thing to take from the uncertainty of life during the height of the pandemic. I have learned so much about the Uk and its pockets of joy. It came when we were forced to abandon trips abroad and opt for open spaces above all else. During the turmoil of Covid, I felt selfish to wonder if travel would ever feel the same again. Now I know the face of travel has changed for us in a huge way. We no longer only look outside our own country for escapism. We look at the country we are blessed to call home and the adventures that still await us.
The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself.
Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series. I hope these have been of some help so far and thanks for returning! It has been 121 days since we set off on our huge Scotland road trip. The NC500 route around Scotland is, as you may have guessed, approximately 500 miles. From our starting point in Essex, up to the route, around the Isle of Skye and back home via the Lake District we covered 2800 miles. This journey will see you cover many many miles and have your eyes peeled back as far as they will naturally go. It is a joy to travel this route and explore every corner.
121 days ago we loaded up our car with as much long life food as possible, A LOT of wet weather gear and what we like to think were sensible purchases to make our experience in the wilds of the Scottish highlands as comfortable and safe as possible. There are other blogs on my page about our purchases and how we also kept the budget down. Keep tuned in for other tips and itinerary hacks.
The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below.
This is the itinerary for Day 7 of our NC500 road trip.
After staying in Lochbroom or Ullapool for the night your journey to Clashnessie Falls will take approximately 1 hour 10 minutes.
Clashnessie falls is a site dependent on the right weather conditions for two reasons. Should it rain before your visit the falls will be at their most dramatic and beautiful. However the route to the falls will be, as we found, extremely boggy and unstable. Alternatively if there has been a dry spell, of which is uncommon in the western highlands, you will find the route easier to tackle and yet be greeted upon a fine mist of a waterfall at the end of your walk. The car park can be found using the what 3 words instructions on the itinerary below. The walk from the car park to the beginning of the waterfall route is very simple. From the car park opposite the beach turn left and walk back up the road. You will pass a red phone box on your left. Keep going up the small hill and you will come to a sign post indicating where the walk to the falls begins. It is down a track and when you get to the Falls Cottage you can choose to go either across the stream using the stepping stones or to the right along the fence. Both lead you to a good view of the falls. The route from the car park to the falls should take no longer than 20-25 minutes on a good day, however considerably longer should the ground become boggy in bad weather. I would definitely plan accordingly.
The timing of this day will depend on the weather and how much you care about soggy feet, coats and bodies. Saying that, regardless of the weather the next stop is an absolutely must do. Achmelvich Bay was an absolute pleasure to visit and I’ll post the link soon to why it was my highlight of Day 7. Out of all the places we went to along the route I can hands down, without any hesitation say for both myself and Mr W that we would return to this beautiful slice of paradise. The car park is situated next to the Shore Caravan site and I suggest using (again) the what 3 words app to get you to the exact spot you need to be. The car park does have a charge, although like other sites, it is more of an invitation to pay rather than a demand. There is a single large toilet cubicle on site, which would be great should you wish to change out of swimming gear and such like. This again is chargeable, however the pay machine was broken on our arrival and we were still able to use the facilities. Out of all the activities today, should you be a brave traveller and like to swim, I would bank on spending a lot of your time here and plan your day around this particular site. There is a small cafe which sells fish and chips. Honestly, you can’t go wrong!
From here, you can pretty enjoy the route while you scope out more food to recharge your batteries. Lochinver Larder is highly rated among the NC500 enthusiasts. They will heat the pies should you desire and although pricey (£14 for two pies) they are very filled and tasty. There is nearby free parking. Next, treat yourself to a hot drink at Sovi’s Coffee. The car park is a sharp left turn en route to Ullapool and I suggest slowing down as you approach. The parking is used by hikers to the Bone Caves which takes between 30-60 minutes depending on your fitness level. Although we didn’t do this particular walk, we saw a few people coming and going which leads me to believe it is a popular spot. I have read that the route can be quite uneven and the final climb to the caves is steep. I advise some further research before planning this into your day.
After your pause for drinks, head onto Ullapool for a real treat. For the first time on your route, you will find a beautiful town with lots of shops and places to eat and explore. We ate at the Seafood Shack, and despite my hesitation with fish, I enjoyed my food immensely. The town has wide avenues and although nothing like the size of Inverness or Edinburgh it had the bustle of a small town that feels very warm in its invite. We found street parking plentiful and were lucky to park a stone throw from the Seafood Shack itself.
After you have reacquainted yourself with the familiar sights and sounds of buildings and signposted streets you will notice the return of road markings and busier roads on your journey to the Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve.
With its utterly mesmerising view of the gorge and path-making waterfall, this is an absolute must do for any visitors to the Ullapool area. Although a quick visit at just 40 minutes, its effortless snaking paths and views are the best way to end day 7. Parking was plentiful.
Finish your day by making the stunning drive to Aultbea for your overnight accommodation. The drive itself took on the coastal roads which gave dramatic views out to the Summer Isles and the dark navy waters of . On a clear day you may see the island of Lewis and Harris, an island in the Outer Hebrides.
This is my highlight from Day 4 of our recent trip to Scotland to drive the NC500 route.
The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself.
This particular highlight will remind you that planning for every eventuality cannot truly happen.
2 motorbikes crashed in Broar on the A9. Not only did they crash badly enough to be airlifted to the hospital but they crashed on the small bridge crossing the river Brora which runs off of Brora Loch to the west. This slicing piece of water divides Scotland in the east all the way to Lairg. It’s not something you need to know until the bridge is blocked. And here it was, blocked. I have tried since then to find out how the rivers are without any further news found. At our accommodation in Wick we met several people who were caught in the aftermath of traffic and we found out the two involved were American tourists. It is certainly not something you want to happen on your travels and I hope they are okay.
Now I mentioned our accommodation in Wick. From Brora it is an hour’s drive via a small stop off at the Whaligoe steps. We were making good time on our Day four itinerary (see link below) and were due to arrive early at our accommodation for 5pm (ish). And yet our detour from the crash was over 115 miles long! We left Broar at 3:45pm and arrived at our accommodation at 7:10pm. Now if you are a regular reader you may take an educated guess at my mood at the very beginning of this little problem.
This meant missing the Whaligoe Steps, one of the big highlights of the NC500, and potentially missing our check in at our accommodation. A night in the car was not something I was looking forward to. As we took the Sat Nav’s advice, we came upon a ford. No not a car, a river ford, with very visible wheel tracks leading into the water. Now Mr W isn’t particularly precious over his car, but upon my closer inspection from the suspension footbridge, I couldn’t see the riverbed and just could not risk it. Not only did we have Marv the drone in the car but my laptop, a lot of camera equipment, luggage and food. Oh and ourselves! We retrace the road back to the A9 and Mr W set about finding a new route to Wick. The Sat Nav presented us with a 3 hour detour and honestly my heart sank. A quick look at the news told us that the road had been closed since 11am and we made up our minds to take the detour.
We headed west from the A9 towards Lairg and joined the A836. Quickly the road became single track and the most difficult we’d faced under the tyres so far. Most of it was loose shingle and even though we had started the NC500 on that same morning, we had been blessed with normal roads so far. This introduction, although early, most definitely gave us an insight into what was ahead in our trip. The road itself cut through flat heathlands which were sparse albeit with the occasional swampy looking river. There was just nothing there. No cattle. No houses. Nothing. It was us and the four cars in front of us. It became clear very quickly at how the crash on the A9 was affecting the eastside of Scotland as traffic built up ahead and behind us.
The four cars in front of us became our ‘team’ as Mr W put it. The front car set the pace and to stop any delays in having to pull over in a layby for oncoming traffic we were all in this together. Occasionally one of the ‘team’ would pull over to give themselves from the twisting turning roads and Mr W would shout out ‘come on, team’ as we sped away. Despite the dodgy roads and the fear of actually crashing I could not stop laughing at his finding joy in the moment. My husband, the rally driver, was pumped up and exhilarated from the change in circumstances. His inner comedian bounded out with every bump in the road and I could not help but grin.
After a while with the time of arrival on the sat nav having changed dramatically and it becoming clear we would indeed make our check in time, we both started to relax. The roads became narrower, with blind bends as we turned onto the B873. On one side were the slopes of the mountains around us and on the other the road made way for steep drops the Loch Naver below. The waters were as black as night and yet as an Asda home delivery truck pulled around the corner I could not help but breathe a sigh of relief. If he was all the way out here, we would be fine. As people joined and left our team as we whizzed around the road Mr W whooped and cheered us all on our merry way.
We saw images of Scotland that we did not see for the rest of our trip. Men dressed in waders out in the rivers fly fishing. A lonely single Inn watching the road bursting into new life. Rain clouds passing over Loch Naver deciding on whether to meet its surface. We also whipped past our accommodation for the next night and I realised that we would be tracing some of this detour again in the morning. From Bettyhill right round to Thurso we found the double track roads had returned and the car glided onto our final destination as Mr W bade goodbye to our ‘team-mates’ as they went on to fulfil their day’s plans.
The relief was palpable as we reached our hotel and yet despite the interlude of doubt, worry and racing, I found myself in absolute awe of my husband. He had not panicked like I initially did. He took it for what it was. He took it in his stride and laughed at every challenge.
I am grateful for him. I am grateful for having seen a much more rural piece of Scotland than we had planned to see. I am grateful we didn’t attempt the ford crossing and stayed dry in our car.
This also means we have unfinished business in Scotland. Oh no! We shall have to return.
Framework Travel 