Highlight 8 of the NC500 – Hartfield House Hostel

Hello! If you’ve been waiting for this blog I apologise. I’m not going into why I’ve been absent this time. I’m sure you grow weary of the reasons and are just going to continue reading about our Scotland trip. This is the highlight of day 8 and unlike several others this is based purely on the accommodation from Day 8. It was amazing!

I’d love to put a disclaimer right here about how we had been ‘gifted’ a stay at this hostel, first and foremost because we love a bargain but also due to the fact it would maybe explain my love for this place. It is often the case that a reviewer will receive a ‘kickback’ to some extent to help them write of their love of an accommodation. 

As you know we do love a bargain however we were full paying guests and my opinions are based solely on our fantastic experience. 

Hartfield House Hostel lies in the heart of Applecross. It is a large white building which shines like a beacon when the sun shines over the Applecross peninsula. Isn’t that just the mushiest stuff you’ve ever read? 

There is a long winding driveway at the property and honestly my rising anxiousness at staying in a hostel only rose as we ambled on at the 10 miles per hour speed limit. All was forgotten as over the fences of a pasture ahead we saw the ginger and cream haired Highland Coo’s in all their glory. There they were, after over a week of being in Scotland. They slowly chewed their food while blankly staring at our approach. Our excitement was not shared by our soon to be new best friends. 

Todays’ plans were strict in the sense of us arriving at the hostel. With check in at 4pm and only one washing machine and tumble dryer we were on a mission to be clean! 

We were too early to check in, in fact the building was locked and so we took the time to check out our neighbours. I am ever so slightly obsessed with the Coo’s now. And I am sure I have way too many photos to share with you. But let the obsession reign supreme! I am sure they’d sooner trample me on my approach for a cuddle, stroke and loving gaze, so I am happy enough just sending my adoration from the fenced pathway. They did not care. More’s the pity. 

Watching my watch carefully I raised the alarm to Mr W that check in would start in two minutes and so we returned to the huge building. As we approached the door and car came whizzing into the car park. She called over that she wouldn’t be a minute and I braced myself for what lay ahead. Our money saving schemes were behind us, we had scrimped and saved our way onto this trip, but living it was a different matter. What on earth was going to be beyond that door.

Countless times you will hear horror stories of hostels and how communal living isn’t always the cleanest. We had booked a private double room, well twin bedded room, and the toilet and shower facilities were down the hall to be shared with all other guests. The kitchen and communal spaces were also to be shared. I had visions flooding into my mind of ‘Kumbaya, My Lord’ being sung accompanied by some dreadlocked dude playing a guitar whilst others scraped together a meal of ramen and pickles. Stereotype much!

Check in was insanely easy and we were shown our room, literally walked to our room, when does that ever happen? 

The room was huge. Much like the outside, the white walls absolutely shone in the daylight streaming in from the huge window and I stood absolutely astounded at its spotless nature. The beds, although not marriage friendly (though word from the wise, sleeping in separate single beds on an exhausting trip like this really does wonders), were comfy and inviting. Fluffy rugs were under foot and plugs situated around the room meant we could comfortably charge every device we had been reliant on for the trip so far. Sounds pretty normal right? Well, no, on this day, day 8, we had found our first modernised room and it was enormous. It had enough room for us, our bags and our tiredness to fit into! Now that’s something. 

We took a moment to check out the bathrooms. The most ‘eeep’ inducing thing about the whole stay. Peeing in a public bathroom is not my forte. In fact I will still hold out as long as possible whilst out and about in London. On hikes I would rather pee in a field than try a public toilet and often do. It’s not necessarily just a clean thing. I think I have a shy bladder. Mr W is often the ‘lookout’ for such events and often thinks two seconds is enough of a warning for incoming walkers. For clarity, it is not. The bathroom was enormous with at least 5 toilet cubicles and 4 showers. It was insanely clean and spacious. I’m not sure what I was expecting exactly but this was far from it. It was bright and beautiful. Maybe I was expecting a dungeon. Maybe bugs. 

On returning to our room we quickly decided on our form of attack for the pile of washing that had accumulated in the car. We had both only packed the very essentials for this trip and underwear was running scarce. Priority one! Then there was the clothing we had used multiple times in favour of others due to their durability and warmth. Lessons are learned on the road too kids! With two big bundles in our arms we made our way to the courtyard where the washing facilities could be found. An actual interior courtyard next to the huge glazed kitchen. Our mission to arrive on time had paid off, we were the first there. A cycle of washing and drying cost £5. As I’ve never been to a laundrette I can’t say whether this is normal or pricey but when you are paying £40 a night for two people I’m not sure it matters.

With our stomachs full from a dinner of noodles (not ramen but hey close enough) put together in a chef size kitchen area we played by the rules and tidied up after ourselves and washed and dried our dishes. We then broke the cover of our rooms and headed to the showers. Oh glorious hot water. How we take you for granted!

The cubicle was big, like for a party of 3 big, and I found myself not wanting to leave. I remember now that just the night before I had not showered due to an upset stomach and the massive need for sleep. If you have read the recap of Day 7, we had been at Achmelvich bay and my hair and skin was paying the price for being in the sandy and salty water. This shower was sent from heaven! There was someone in the cubicle next to me, I swear it was a man, the whistling just sounded manly if I’m honest and with the very shiny ceiling I’m unsure if he/they saw anything I had to offer but with the feeling of cleanliness washing over me I don’t think I cared too much. I’m not sure why a man would have been in the ladies showers but it really is hard to care when the hot water doesn’t end and the bubbles keep frothing and your hair is no longer a messy nest. I swear a seagull flew out at one point. Maybe. 

Rather than walk the hallways barefoot and wrapped in a towel, I did that awkward shimmy into my trousers. Ya know the one where you’re standing on a wet floor and you dry the chosen foot as much as you can while holding your leg up and attempting to hop your way into said clothing. It’s hardly ever truly successful but always seems the more favourable option until you are face planting the cubicle wall. Feeling squeaky clean I emerged from the bathroom ready to conquer the evening. 

We chose to end our night in the communal living area where I would write and Mr W would take some time ‘off’. We sat on our own sofas, next to the bay window and as the night closed around us only one other couple popped in for a look and then left. 

I am under no illusion that hostels can be much busier and although we by no means visited out of season, the usual college and university students who meander through these places were back in their classes and we found ourselves the uncrowned kings of the castle. Having spent nearly two hours on our thrones and letting our freshly washed hair down, we pitter-pattered back to our room for a wonderful night’s sleep.  

Robustly refreshed, we awoke exceptionally early the next day to leave. Even at 5am the smile of this place was not waning. Mr W and I, already agreeing on plans to return, retraced the road back to the peninsula road.  

It is as if this place is the true prize at the end of the winding, butt clenching ride that is the Bealach Na Ba. Forget everything you think you know about hostels and book this place now! 

The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself. 

Tears of travel anxiety

Well, it is here. The day I’ve been rattling on about ALL year long. Mr W and I are embarking on a fifteen day tour of Scotland. It is the longest trip we’ll have ever taken together and the most intricately planned one too.

We will be staying in 14 hotels, travelling over 1800 miles, drinking copious amounts of tea that have been made using our car kettle, going wild swimming for the first time and we are taking you with us!

Yes, to add to the 12-14 hour days, the miles upon miles of hiking and the basic meals of oats and pot noodles, I will be writing every single evening. I’ve often wondered if this will put too much strain on the trip and whether I should wait until after. But truthfully, this is the chance to get every emotion and opinion down as it is on the day without inference of the delay of time.

If you’ve been following this blog so far you’ll know I’m either bordering on OCD or already a fully fledged member of the OCD Club of Organisation Addiction Awareness. So you may not be surprised that every blog going forward already has a template from which I will be able to work from. I also have a notepad that’ll be with me in the car and a printed itinerary I can edit along the way. I really want to learn as I go along on this trip, which means if something I have researched (albeit meticulously) does not work out, I want to find the answers and tell you everything. You may have gleaned by now that I’m passionate about travel beyond measure and if I can inspire (ick word) you to take the trip you’ve been putting on the back burner well that’s just a beautiful thing.

So today, we are driving up to Thirsk in order to break up the mammoth drive to Edinburgh from Essex, our very first and brief stop on Saturday morning. We’ve stayed in Thirsk a number of times now and it works perfectly for us as it’s small enough to not have any traffic and it has a big Tesco and petrol station. It has made the perfect overnight pitstop previously and there’s nothing better on your first night than familiarity. It also helps that our hotel has a restaurant, a budget one, so we don’t need to dig into our food reserves and can be at full energy for the longest start of the trip.

We have an exceedingly early morning tomorrow because we still have a 3 hour drive before our first stop, so we will be up before the sun and on our merry way.

As ever, my nerves about leaving home have started hitting me. This has been happening in its worst form for about three years now. It is hard to pinpoint the exact time it happened but I think it has a lot to do with the time we had to leave our home without a housesitter in 2019. Although we had various people coming in and out at least three times a day, I was incredibly worried about our dog and cats and don’t think I’ve ever really recovered from the guilt. Since then we have secured a housesitter every single time we have left for longer than two days. My dad will always say it’s not an issue but really his doing this enables us to really go out and live.

I literally can’t sit still the days leading up to when we travel and I dare say a lot of that is down to nerves. I love to come home to a clean and tidy home and before we leave I’ll often remember tiny little jobs I’ve been putting off , for instance I’ve been pottering in the garden getting it ready for autumn and reshuffling photos in the hallways.

This week that has been made a darn sight harder due to the flare up of my back condition. Oh yes, we have a 30 page itinerary for a 15 days trip and now is the time my back doesn’t want to play ball. I’ve tried movement, stretching, walking, sleeping, sitting and resting and so far sod all is working. It’s been over two weeks and I am slowly but very steadily getting pissed off. I am determined to keep to the plan for the trip as this has been so long in the planning and even longer in the dreaming.

Putting the final touches to everything this week has definitely kept my mind busy but I know I’ll be a blubbering mess as we leave in a short while. It’s ridiculous really for someone who lives and breathes to travel how much it makes me nervous. You’d think I’d be used to it by now. It catches me off guard and I feel my breath catch in my chest. It’s like a wave of worry washing over me. An anxiety avalanche if you will.

Mr W asks if we should cancel and I know that I can’t stay here forever, holding down the fort, protecting what I can’t while I’m away. Therefore it is off to the horizon we go, me and him, finding the next adventure and praying my anxieties get lost along the way. Maybe I’ll tie them to the rear bumper and give them a good chance of joining us, if they can hold on that is.

Right, here we go. Scotland 2022. Let’s see what you’re all about.

Miles: 232

Packing for a UK break

This really could be a boring blog to those that aren’t interested. However it is with all good intentions that I share all travel tips and ideas with you. So this piece will highlight some of the purchases I’ve made to make the unpredictable Scottish weather a bit easier to handle. 

Now, you may have worked out by now that I love to travel on a budget and I also like to keep costs down at home. Who isn’t right? The cost of actually living these days is insane. I realised today that buying all of our food in advance for this trip, totalling £237.52 (a mere £8.48 per person per day and that includes all meals, snacks and drinks) meant I avoided paying the escalated prices of everything. No I’m not psychic, just very lucky. I dread to think how much the actual total would have been if I had left it till now. 

Due to this very particular need to buy in advance and spread the cost, a few months ago I started looking into cheap clothing that would help keep us warm and dry. Ultimately I have been trying to avoid the big costs when buying the pricey 100% waterproof clothing in places like Go Outdoors. For the sake of two weeks in Scotland, I can’t justify buying expensive trousers and thick coats. It was time to get creative. 

It is going to be extremely unlikely that we will dodge the poorer weather that often presents itself in the highlands. Heading out into the inclement weather does not bother me. My main concern is keeping the wind and rain off our chests. I am susceptible to chest infections and Mr W has asthma. A cold and flu situation does not a vacation make!

I have bought us both some fleece hoods that have a big draping part of material that can be tucked into tops etc that will keep us warm. They also have drawstrings so we can tighten them around our chins etc. I think these will be especially effective against the winds when we hike.  They were barely £2.50 each and even if we don’t wear them out walking, I think they would be a good way to warm us up if we get caught in a downpour. 

I have bought two really thick and baggy beanie hats. I love a beanie hat and these are just such great quality. Woolly hats are my worst enemy and they end up sitting on my head rather than keeping it warm. A beanie always fits me better. I think it has something to do with my hair. It pushes a woolly hat up and off. When we bought our wetsuits I realised I could wear a hat while I had a paddle so my head would be happy too. Again, at less than £2.30 I am chuffed with my purchase.

For the warmer but windier days I have some knitted headbands that will hopefully keep my hair in place and my head semi warm. The kind of warmth you need with a bit of heat release. So not too hot. Not too cold. Something just right. And they are really cute too!

I also have a very indulgent fleece/faux fur lined infinity scarf with a knitted external layer, should my neck really need some heat. At £2.80, you really can’t fault it and I’m almost praying for colder weather. Almost. 

When it comes to clothing I think Mr W and I have nailed the whole hiking wardrobe so far. Layers in abundance and spare items in the bag you have on the day. Usually I have a vest top under a long sleeve top under a light jumper and then either a thin jacket or a thick fleece-y gilet I have had for years. I find the more layers you have the better and they are so easily interchanged should it rain or you get too warm. I am confident in the fact that my upper half is usually happy with intermittent weather conditions. 

For the women readers, I like to keep the bra situation real simple. Bralets, sports bras and such like. No underwires. Hiking and some scrambling up rocky hills needs ultimate comfort. And who on earth is going to see you anyway? Do we think the sheep and cows will mind?

Now, trousers, on my first two trips to Northumberland I wore jeans on all the hikes and noticed a lack of mobility that made my legs hurt after a while. On our last trip I dared to wear jogging bottoms and oh wow the range of motion I got back was just great. I bought two basic pairs for £20 and I use them at home to do some gardening and I’m not precious about them. They are ultimately utility trousers, If they get muddy that is fine. They aren’t necessarily my style, but again as long as the cows and field dwellers don’t mind, I’m happy enough. 

As the trousers aren’t very thick, I have bought some super thick knitted leggings that on the colder days I can wear underneath. I am obsessed! They are so soft and long. This means no cold ankles. They were £9 and I reckon worth every penny. They also come up over my stomach so will double up as a body warmer too!

Now I will have my very trusty walking boots with me as ever. They are padded and sturdy. I literally feel like a superhero in these things. They are so supportive that they give me so much confidence. My actual mind believes I can hike, climb and take on these huge personal challenges. I think clothing that gives you that freedom is a big deal. They were roughly £35 and are the budget brand Karrimor from Sports Direct, but I have never ever had an issue with them.

Along with these I will have my trusty pair of Nike trainers that I wear literally everywhere. These will be for wear on pavements etc, they won’t make much of an appearance but will give my feet a break from the heftier soles of the boots. I have also invested in a knock-off version of uggs. The short version. They were £7 or so from New look and these are purely to warm my feet up should we get caught in a downpour. If my feet get cold the rest of my body soon follows. These will be like my car slippers.  

Of course we have our wetsuits. Mentioned in a previous blog. An absolute bargain from Mountain Warehouse for £50! Other wetsuits were priced at nearly £400. I mean,  what! Getting these into the luggage is going to be a challenge as they’re rather big and thick, but I reckon a good roll up will do wonders. 

Now the above does not paint a very glamorous picture, but I’m leaving the glamour to the highlands. There are, however, two times I would like to be myself and dress nicely and they are meals to celebrate our wedding anniversary. 4 years! Yay us. I’ll be packing one or maybe two lightweight dresses, that need no ironing, in the bags so we can step out in some sort of refinery. Having these luxuries on our trip will be a complete indulgence in what will be a very basic but enjoyable trip. 

As we are going to be eating most of our meals in the car we have made a small investment in a kettle that can run off the cigarette lighter port. At £12 I am made up with the quality and it has opened up so many possibilities food and drink wise. Hot chocolates on a cold day. Pot noodles at lunchtime. And a thirst quenching cup of tea! But, what about milk? Ah you see, alongside the kettle I bought those little milks you usually find in hotels from Amazon. They are long life milks so need no refrigeration and the pots are recyclable so it’s a win-win situation! Can anything beat a cup of tea when you are tired?

To keep packing to a minimum we are aiming to pack enough clothes for a week. As it is a two weeks trip we have located washing machine facilities in one of our hotels. It means taking 2 hours out of our schedule to do the ‘chore’ but it means everything we need food wise will fit in the car. It will also give us a moment to sit down.

I was quite unsure of how much I would share on this piece today. Now I have reached the point again where I think I’ll discuss the rest in situ. This means I can update you how successful the purchases were and about other ones I’m yet to tell you about. I’m very aware that this approach will see us soggy in the odd downpour, we have some ponchos to keep off the majority of the rain and I hope the above really goes a long way to keep us warm. The proof will be in the pudding.

For now, we are in the final countdown towards our trip and the very real need to start packing looms. Eep!

Photo by Dave Watson
Please check out his work on https://www.instagram.com/davewatson_uk/ or at https://davewatson1980.picfair.com

Greenwich on a budget

As you may or may not have gleaned so far, we are fans of budgeting as much as possible. 

Today was no different, so below, you’ll find an example of a day out that did not break the bank and was still thoroughly enjoyable. In fact, I loved every minute!

Now, normally we visit Greenwich, park up in an underground car park which charges £3+ an hour and eat ourselves silly at a nearby chinese restaurant. After patting our stomachs, claiming for the 100th time that we have no idea how we ate as much as we did and then waddling around the grounds of Greenwich University to while away the remaining time on the car park ticket. There may be occasions where we will wander around Greenwich market and chide ourselves once again for not eating at the very many delicious looking food stalls. 

So with being frugal in mind and the aim of seeing more of Greenwich than ever before, we set out this morning at 6:30am! The sun hung in the hazy sky setting the tone of grey for the day. My dress and converse combo sat on the fence of wrong or right outfit choice. The drive into Greenwich is an hour from our home and honestly we love the fact we can drive into this part of London and not be charged by the congestion zone. Be careful though, you may be subject to a charge under the Ultra Low Emissions Zone, so should you fancy following in our tire tracks, check this beforehand. We approach Greenwich along the A12 from Colchester and head under the Thames via the Blackwall Tunnel. I wouldn’t say it is a scenic route by any means, you catch a glimpse of the Olympic Park, O2 arena and Emirates Cable Care, so buckle up and sing to the radio to pass the time. 

Now, tip number one: on a weekend you can park on Charlton Way, SE10 8QY, for free! This road runs along the top of Greenwich park and as long as you get there early enough you will be as close to the park as you’ll ever get without paying for parking. You literally park outside the walls of the park itself. Arriving at 07:45am, we were the tenth car from the gates.

There is something about a walled park that screams Royal London to me and it is mornings like these that make me drag my body out of my beloved bed. That and a meal deal with a caffeine hit! We will often grab a meal deal from our Tesco petrol station to fend off the morning hunger monster and at £3 it cannot be sniffed at!

With this in our bellies and caffeine flooding our veins, we head into the park. Flooding the park’s very own pathed veins were early morning runners and dog walkers. By any standard, lots of dogs running, playing and wagging their tails sets us up for a great day. 

We turned right as we entered the park and head towards Greenwich Park Pond. There aren’t too many signs in the park, but on entry there is a huge map, so click that phone camera to stay on track. The pond is a pleasant walk from the street and as the sun was barely over the surrounding wall, it felt very secluded and as if we were disturbing its morning routine. Baby birds swam on the mirrored surface while fish jumped to catch the early morning bugs. There are two small fountains in the centre of the expanse of water and it created a lovely backdrop of sound to the waking day. A large heron flew above the trees below settling on a branch and settling down for what looked like a nap. Surrounding the pond are very old trees. Chestnut trees whose trunks twist up and spiral towards the sky, pine trees whose low hanging but long branches create a sneaky snug away from the crowds and the mighty oaks all make for a sight you do not expect against the backdrop of Financial London. 

From the pond we made our way across the park to the Rangers House. It is actually located outside the park and you need to exit and follow the wall around to find its front gates. Netflix subscribers may already know this house and I hope that Bridgerton viewers will most definitely recognise this building. Arriving early, we found ourselves the only people clinging to its gates and found out that tomorrow (31st July) they will be filming there for what we can only assume is the next series of Bridgerton! Obviously this is only a guess but there were loads of flowers and shrubs off to the side ready to dress the scene and we all know this adds up to a very safe guess.

Dragging myself away from camping out overnight for a glimpse of those beautiful costumes, we set off across the park once more towards the tree lined avenue that stretches from the entrance gates to the sprawling vista of the London skyline. At 8:30am there were only a handful of people around with their furry companions and the odd tourist leaning against the tall railings of the Royal Observatory and its meridian line. 

Tip two: On the wall surrounding the observatory courtyard is the Shepherd Gate Clock, if you turn right and head around the fences and through the black swing gate you will be able to straddle the meridian line for free. Lots of people pay entrance to the Royal Observatory just to take that Instagram worthy photo not knowing you can do this for free only a few metres away. There are pretty awesome views of the 02 arena from here too! Budget busting eh?

Continue along this walkway until you meet the main road that leads down and through the park. It is much quieter than the middle route that takes you down the narrow and steep path past the Maritime Museum. The tree lined path you find will lead you steadily down the Greenwich slope and out through the beautiful St Mary’s gate. 

You will now be in the electric beating heart of Greenwich. We arrived here at 09:10am and needed a seat to rest our waking bums and coffee to stir our slumbering minds. We stopped in at Grind on Nelson Road and was immediately blown away by the decor. There is an industrial greenhouse vibe that I am absolutely loving right now and we are planning to take pieces of it for one of our bathroom transformations. And the best thing… dogs are allowed! There is a gorgeous bar, large glass enveloped space and an outdoor courtyard where you can sip your delectable coffee under the morning sky. 

Stopping only for coffee, we were involuntarily led to order food by our eyes and drooling mouths when the table opposite us received their food. We ordered buttermilk pancakes with chantilly cream, red fruits and seeds. It felt like a complete indulgence and against our rules of keeping to a small budget so we shared the one dish between us. It was a beautifully light, fresh and zingy treat which we took longer than necessary to eat just to drag out the moment in the beautiful space just that bit longer. Cost of drinks and food: £20 inc service charge. Cost of being spontaneous and doing the happy food wiggle: priceless. Oh and, by now you may need to pee, the toilets here are awesome. I’ve never ever been in a toilet that has a voiceover and David Attenborough at that!

Back on the street we turned towards the vintage market and chose to take an early morning stroll to look at the offerings. I dare say there are items for the more discerning eye which were completely lost on me. But it’s definitely an experience. 

The same can be said for the National Maritime Museum. Tickets are booked online for free which classes this as tip number 3! Booked free or with donation is down to you. We booked free with the idea to donate when there. We took a short hour to wander the halls of this magnificent building. The discerning eye again fled the scene here for me but the world map on the mezzanine level and the huge propeller and the Tarbat Ness light are not to be missed. (We are going to Tarbat Ness Lighthouse in Scotland later this year so that was a serendipitous moment for sure.) There is plenty enough to see in this huge exhibition space and if you have any interest in maritime history I think it is a perfectly well put together space for a great day out. It also helps that all exhibition rooms are air conditioned! Hello from an exceptionally happy girl to a port in the storm that is a British summer time. Just for that I folded a £5 note into the donation box as we left. 

Are you keeping up so far. 

Free parking. 

Wandering a park. 

Cheeky indulgent coffee and treat £20.

World famous museum (free +£5).

It is 11am. Not too shabby eh?

From here, we walked to Greenwich market itself. We regularly visit and never try any of the food and although we were completely game to try what took our fancy, we were not hungry in the slightest! We wandered slowly, glancing around and willing our stomachs to wake to no avail. We bought a very sweet and lemony juice drink from one of the vendors (£3) to inject some bounce back into our step. I could feel the food coma taking over my body and needed its advance to slow. Was it a costly expense? Absolutely. Cheaper than the food we had intended on buying? Absolutely again!

The food stalls range from £5-9 per dish. They come in a range of sizes and are all cooked fresh. The meals on offer here stretch around the globe in their geography and I cursed myself again for not waiting to eat. 

It is a short walk from the market to the grounds of the University and we have paused here many times to watch the world go by. The area is stunning on its own but should you need more than history to whet your appetite you may be amused to know that there have been more than a few hollywood productions filmed right here! Pirates of the Caribbean, Thor, Cruella, Les Miserables and Netflix’s The Crown, to name just a few. It’s not everyday you can walk onto a film set. After you’ve stepped through historical London, backtrack to the river and follow it east until you come across the Trafalgar Tavern. 

This was a new addition to our Greenwich visit today and hidden by the University though it is, I wondered how we ever missed it. Hundreds upon hundreds of flags are strung here and there. Criss crossing between trees shedding their shadows on the cobbles below. It is an awe-inspiring place and with bench seating against the railings of the Thames we are making our way back here as soon as possible. It is also dog friendly here, so we may have to nag a dog for a day-out treat too!

Feeling the burn of the midday sun we started our slow walk back towards the waiting car and its air conditioning. We stopped briefly on the benches at the bottom of the hill. For the first time we sat looking up at the hill rather than down from it. It was sad to look out and see the dusty field that has been starved of moisture by the summer sun. The lush Greenwich green I am used to has all but dried up. I sat hoping for rain to return soon. Behind us the Queens house gleamed in the sunlight and its 200 metre long herbaceous border was an enormous contrast to the rest of the park. Bright greens framed the pinks, whites and purple flowers and I found myself transfixed by the juxtaposition. I may have sat a tad longer than needed as we still had the steep hill to climb that runs below the observatory. 

On my itineraries while working for study abroad I used to give the students 30 minutes to get from Greenwich market to the observatory owing to the walk and slog up that hill. I wondered if my tired feet would meet their match as we took the criss-crossing path across the desert land into the shade of the chestnut trees that lined the pathway. An early autumn was scattered on the ground where the trees had forsaken their crispy and dying leaves. I wondered if we’d experience a merging of seasons until winter. 

So here it was, the beginning of the steep hill. Mr W remarked that he bet it was a bitch to walk in the rain. Although made of pressed pebbles, rain would make it very slick and I was grateful for the summer’s heat. The pathway is almost a right of passage for all visitors to the park and this means it is busy. Going slowly is the only option and for that I am semi-grateful. Too slow and your body does not thank you. From the bottom to the top I timed us at a measly 2 minutes so whilst the heat did not help it is certainly much easier than I imagined. Although most of my imaginings come from others experiences and remarks made online. So take it from a big girl, this is not as scary as you are led to believe!

Now, we did not achieve the chow down we yearned for today, but if you did buy food from the market or bought a budget saving picnic I believe ‘copping a squat’ at a space on the hopefully returned grassy area below the statue of James Wolfe will be the cherry on the cake of a splendid day. Is there anything better than tasty food with a skyline view?

Take your time and drink it all in. The people in the below landscape. The red buses pass here and there. The history. Dogs playing. A good doorstop sandwich and even a cup of tea. With all its English eccentricities I asked myself if the aim of the day was to slip into a Jane Austen novel and wondered if it would be such a bad thing if true. Aiming to be or not the day felt organic and simple. Enough to please the eye and plenty to make the soul happy.

Slowly walking Blackheath Avenue back to the car, I added up the cost of the day. £28. This will cost more if you succumb to the food and the trinkets sold by the traders in the markets. It’ll cost less if you take a picnic. If you take anything away from our travels today, may it be this: you are the writer of your own story. Your budget is yours to make. Your story is not determined by how much something costs nor how many things you see and do. It is defined by how you feel in your heart and mind. It is defined by how the sun feels on your skin and what pulls your eyes across a scene. Money cannot buy the time we spend watching the sun chase the clouds in the sky nor can it replace the time we lose worrying about how much something is going to cost. There are free experiences out there hidden between expense and twinkling lights. They are there for the taking. 

Planning for the NC500

It has been a while since I’ve given an update on the big trip coming up for us in late summer. As of midnight tonight, our mega busy month of June will be over and it is just as well as Mr W has caught covid. So this weekend of planned ‘time-out’ truly will be a stay at home event. No plans. No house stuff. Not even sharing a bed or a sofa at the moment with the fella so it is truly a time-out event. He actually seems okay at the moment which is a huge relief. So yes, June has been a tad mad. A weekend away in Norfolk. A long weekend in Northumberland. Family parties. Errands galore. Life. And finding time to run this house. But hey, we made it through!

And here we start the countdown to Scotland! The NC500 is calling and I cannot believe we are so close. The house is starting to look like a doomsdayers shelter with boxes piling high for all the food and supplies we are taking. The itinerary I have (so far) is crazy long and it is still not finished. 

Granted there are minor things left to be done now, a few payments, adjustments mainly to the Isle of Skye section and a couple of reservations to be made. Otherwise it’s the behind the scenes stuff. I need to get my organising head on and tackle all the food boxes. I really do not want to spend my days digging through boxes of food to find a meal. So I want our car to be like a pantry, all food that will be eaten in the car, will be in one or two boxes in the rear footwells. This goes for the travel water bottles, drinks, kettle etc. Food in the back of the car will be for meals in the evenings and mornings, so ideally easy to grab as we arrive at hotels along with our essentials such as clothing and toiletries. 

We need an easy system for our clothing so we don’t have to haul our luggage out every night. We have 12 hotels in 14 days, that’s a lot of hauling! 

It feels like the car is basically going to be a home on wheels for 15 days without the bed. 

I’d also like to sort out some kind of bin system for while we are between hotels so we’re not mixing up recyclables with rubbish. Today, I spent some time contacting all of our hotels and I have to say it’s been an unexpected surprise. I’ve heard back from 8 or so, so far, and they have all been super friendly and understanding of our mission to be sustainable while on our trip. A few have said they pick through the bins from the guest rooms themselves and divide up the rubbish. Where I commend this, I couldn’t necessarily let someone do this on our behalf. So I’m aiming to use sustainable brown paper bags to put our recyclable waste into and our hopefully very minimal rubbish will be binned in the hotel as provided. If I manage to find the time, I want to find some recycling points along the route too. It just takes the pressure off of us emptying the car at the end of the day. This gives our sustainable mission every opportunity to be fulfilled and definitely makes all the planning worthwhile. 

In the ‘Sustainability on a budget’ and ‘Out of body experience’ blogs from April and May (links below), I spoke about how we had been testing out the idea of tinned food and it’s proved quite successful. All tins but the ravioli and meatballs were really tasty, packed with the protein we’ll need and give us a much needed break from oatmeal and noodles. It’s also saving us a tonne of money. Usually when we go away we can spend anything between £10 on a budget sandwich or £40 for a meal out. These tins and a few crackers are going to cost between £0.90-£2.00 for each of us and where we’ll be in the car constantly or walking it is the most logical way of eating. There are also very few restaurants on the West side of the highlands so this really is a win-win situation. 

Recyclable. Tick. 

Budget friendly. Tick.

Longlife storage. Tick. 

Tasty. Tick.

Something I’ve realised from our Northumberland trip is how much space we will be working with in our car. Four of us squeezed into the car for a four day trip. Which is insane, as the two of us need to fit all of our stuff for 15 days! That’s food, luggage, photography equipment and blogging necessities. Next on my to-do list is finding a laundrette so we can take a week’s worth of clothing to cut down on the space our luggage takes up. Don’t get me wrong, there’s a lot of possibilities to wear the same trousers for a few days in a row or I’m sure Mr W could do the ol’ underwear flip, but the fact remains, we need to wash our clothes. So far I’ve found one laundrette and it’s on a really busy day for us that we’ll be in that area. I’m sure I’ll find one. My initial search was made when I was fighting to stay awake, one eye open and drained by hayfever. There’s a good chance my brain wasn’t functioning at full capacity!

Little triumphs like the bladder bags and kettle have arrived since I last wrote about this trip. And they have been trialled and tested. They’re not too shabby to be fair and I’m convinced after our water intake in Northumberland that our two 5 litre bottles, that we use for our main water supply on a day to day basis, will save our bacon when it comes to hydration and budget. They will be the only plastic bottles on our trip and the fact that we have been using them for over 2 years makes me really happy. Eco-warrior or eco-geek? 

Mr W also found a bargain the other day that he is rather proud of. A pair of work out leggings? Like the gym ones? I have no idea what they are called. But basically they’ll be worn under his trousers and act like thermal/longjohn type things. He’s very pleased with himself. 

He also *drum roll* bought our first fully capable drone and I’m sure once covid has left this household we’ll be doing lots of test flights. It is a smaller model which means we don’t have to apply for a special incense but we do have to register it. I am really excited about this part of the planning as all you ever see with Scotand are aerial shots and I want to see it from land and air. So I am raring to go!

There is one more thing I’m tempted to add into this trip and that is geocaching. I don’t want it to add any locations to our already bursting itinerary but if there are any geocaches in the places we’ll be going that will certainly make things more interesting. Solving some puzzles along the way will make the long walks just that bit more entertaining I think and it’s also so great to be a part of the journey of others by writing in those little logbooks. This will be one of the last things I look into but I hope we can join in wherever possible. Mr W introduced me to it back in 2013 and I really enjoyed the problem solving part of it all. So as long as it’s fun I don’t see the harm in adding it to this powerhouse of a trip.

One thing that hasn’t worked well, and this is me being totally transparent because you have to be honest about these things, is the ponchos we bought on ebay. They can be used as a ground sheet, strung up to make a temporary shelter or worn to keep dry while walking. They have a hood with a drawstring and are ENORMOUS. Absolutely perfect for covering our backpacks and most of our bodies should we get caught out, which is most likely going to happen, on one of our big walks. Unfortunately, while walking in Kielder this past weekend, nature called and demanded the ponchos be worn. After a 25 minute walk my clothes underneath became a little soggy. My chest, arms and the top of my back were damp on our return to the car and this does not bode well when considering we may be walking in rain for over four hours if we are very unlucky. It’s not so much back to the drawing board on this but a fail-safe backup may be needed. I’m thinking, extremely sturdy umbrellas AND ponchos. This is all to avoid paying the extortionate amounts of money for completely waterproof coats and trousers and using what we have instead. Something we cannot risk, me particularly, is sitting in damp clothes. Especially on my chest. I get ill really easily with colds and chest infections and it may stop the trip in its tracks. So we plan, plan, plan to stop this happening!

My what a lot to do in such a short amount of time. I’ll spend more time as we move closer to the departure date detailing some of the tips I have for the hurdles we’ve come up against and any other purchases we make to help us out. 

For now, night night!

Sustainability on a budget

Covid changed a lot. That is a fact. It disrupted every single life around the world. It’ll be a saga that is told for decades to come. 

I have touched upon how life changed for us in previous blogs, check out ‘Changes to how we saw the world’ and ‘A hop, skip and a fracture’ to learn more. It has changed how we view money, travel and single use purchases. It’s surprising to think that they all go hand in hand. So with that in mind, welcome to,

Sustainability on a budget! 

*play the riotous jingle from our sponsors (there are no sponsors)*

Our biggest trip this year will be 16 days travelling from Essex, up to Inverness, over the top of Scotland, following the NC500, pausing in the Isle of Skye and heading down to the Lake District. It’s a lot of mileage to consider and plan ahead for. It’s a lot of everything. 

Food. 

Accommodation

Rubbish. 

Luggage.

We knew early on that we didn’t want this trip to cost the earth. So, from the moment I started planning the route, our stops were allocated due to low cost accommodation. Luckily enough the NC500 takes you through so many small and remote places that a cheap bed for the night wasn’t too hard to come by. There are places I’ve booked in the Isle of Skye and Fort William that have cost almost double our £40-£50 a night budget, but this is to be expected in the more ‘touristy’ areas. Fort William itself has many shops, the popular ‘Harry Potter’ steam railway and is the gateway to Ben Nevis, the Uk’s highest mountain. So it is understandable that our hotel here is costing £80 for the night. It’s an understanding I’ve talked myself round to. Especially as it’s a room with bunk beds! Although it does have a private bathroom, which the diva that lives in me is so grateful for. Other hotels where cheaper do have shared bathrooms and as someone who doesn’t pee in public bathrooms, I’m definitely going all out for this trip! If I remember correctly there are 2-3 hotels on the trip where we won’t share a bed but the room will be private. For the sake of one night, we will survive the separation. Ha! I think after our full days of driving, hiking and exploring, we’ll want nothing more than our own bed, covers and comfort. All hail a return to separate marital beds. I’ve found that when trying to save money, it’s easier to look for hotels that don’t include breakfast, in fact there are only 3 hotels on our entire trip that offer breakfast to be included. One of those hotels is in the Lake District and was booked using a voucher and is our only luxury accommodation on the trip. When it comes to the accommodations we have booked it’s not easy to see how they are sustainable. When one thinks of sustainability it’s often of eco-hotels and the like. However in regards to sustainability and our hotels, it is more of a need to sustain a budget. This budget is important to us, because it means for the first time, travelling in the UK can cost as little as travelling abroad. Too often have we booked a trip to Spain for a week because it is almost one third of the price of a week in Cornwall. This is one of the huge changes covid has brought about. Our need to stay in the UK, but not pay out of the proverbial arse to do so. So far our budget for 16 days in the UK, is at £1086. 92. We have more food to buy, so this amount will increase, but it does include the more expensive items such as the bladder bags and portable kettle. Something that is really important to us this year is stretching the almighty pound coin. It was important when we started planning the trip in December 2021, and we find now in May 2022 it is even more crucial. The cost of living has increased enormously. So if we can minimise the output in terms of vacationing in the UK and learn more about living sustainably in the process I’d call that a win-win situation. 

One of the biggest budget saving hacks I can share with you, is to make your money work harder for you. Something I’ve been doing for years is using our Tesco clubcard points to book our hotels. It is possible to triple up your points in order to do this. It’s easy to do online and I’ve found plenty of hotels that take the vouchers. It means for every £5 of vouchers you potentially have £15 towards a hotel booking. It takes some getting used to as taxes and vat aren’t covered by vouchers, but ultimately it gives you a huge saving! For instance, the hotel I have booked in Fort William cost £85 for the night. I used a £60 voucher and paid £25 cash. However the vouchers I used were originally worth £20. So that means I’m paying £45 for the room, which means a saving of £40! BUT, if you really want to push the thinking, you did nothing but buy your food shop to gain these points, they take time to build, but don’t waste them on your food shop. Boost them! Even a small amount can be boosted and buy you a great dinner at a restaurant along the way. We’ve exhausted our vouchers as of January this year, however by the time we head to Scotland we may have enough for a cheeky pub meal. Not a pot noodle in sight! All in all, we have used £195 of vouchers for this trip, which has cost us £65, that is an enormous saving of £130. Not too shabby eh. And honestly we haven’t compromised on hotels. They are budget, but you do your research. Clean, not a shed and towels included. On this trip, I’ll be happy for a bed and 10 hours out of the car! It may seem complicated, but I assure you it’s easy and it’ll make the trip you take that bit better when you’ve chopped a budget clean in half. 

Mr W and I have spoken for hours on the best way of tackling a budget when it comes to the food for this trip. To add a challenge into the mix, we want to buy food that we can take with us, that won’t spoil and has recyclable, and therefore sustainable, packaging. 

As discussed in ‘Out of body experience number 342’ we’ve decided to take tinned food such as curries and stews to give us the much needed protein and vegetables we need to consume to keep our energy levels up. The best part being that the tin can and paper label are all recyclable. Along with these food items, we have stocked up on packet soups and breakfast oats. All with sustainable packaging. We hope that every few days we’ll be able to buy loose fruit too. To suit eating these packaged foods on the road, we’ve bought a small kettle that can run off of the car’s electric supply. We are lucky to have a hybrid SUV that will turn into a car/kitchen for the trip. We’ve invested in large, lightweight soup mugs for our car meals, have reusable cutlery and have kept two 5 litre bottles to reuse on the trip for water. These water ‘reserves’ will help us fill our bladder backpacks for our long hikes and our metal water bottles for the shorter ones. It would be easy to buy a huge stock of 500ml water bottles to take on the trip, but we’ve become accustomed to using our metal and 5L bottles in order to use less plastic and save a lot of money! In fact, the only other drinks we’ll be taking on our trip are a small variety of canned drinks when water just won’t cut it. Again, I like to think that the sugary treats will taste better when I know the can will be recycled. I plan to send out emails to our accommodations and ask of their recycling methods, as this is important to us and also in regards to our eating habits on the trip. It may come to me finding recycle points in some of the larger towns, so our efforts to be as sustainable as possible does not fall at the second hurdle of the mixed hotel rubbish bin. 

Something I’ve found really useful, and I’ll admit really enjoyable about this food challenge, is the need to organise the food properly. After a long day of hiking and driving, we will find the need to grab food quickly and therefore easily. Therein comes the large ziplock bags. I have not bought these bags rather been sent them as packaging for clothing purchases. When something like these cannot be recycled, it feels good to use it again and again to prevent it becoming a single use item. In the past these bags have been used to hold dirty washing and toiletries. I have quite the collection! Therefore these will be introduced into the food organisation plan for this trip and make for easy grab bags for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 

They will also come in exceptionally handy again for dirty clothes. With the amount of walking and possibly rain we’ll encounter, there will be a great need to separate clean and dirty items. As we plan to take all of our food, the space in the car will be limited when it comes to clothing. So the plan is to pack smart and also to stop at least once at a laundrette. It isn’t ideal. But it means our budget is more sustainable food wise and the food is in sustainable packaging. The only packaging problem I have right now is the milk. It’s impossible to take regular milk on the trip as we won’t have a way of keeping it cool. But this is why I thought of the single serving milks you’ll often find in hotel rooms. The tiny ones that Mr W needs 3 of for his coffee. These are readily available to bulk buy online and I’m happy to have found last night that the actual pot is recyclable. However the lid is not. So if you have any suggestions (other than creamer) I’d love to hear them!

A huge problem we’ve been dealing with at home recently is the amount of bottles we recycle from the bathroom. I’ve been trying out some shampoo bars and Mr W has gone on step further and has a 2-1 shampoo/conditioner bar. So far there have been no complaints, although I’d like to try others due to the after effects and the health of my hair, but there are so many companies that offer these bars with sustainable packaging that I’m sure we’ll find the right ones soon! Team those up with shower gel and soap bars and I’m confident for the environment friendly squeaky clean travellers making their way along the NC500.

However, it is here I will share with you the guilty pleasure I have found in the past. And that is… hotel toiletries! We have a fair few half used hotel toiletry bottles from our travels, which we knew would be thrown out and wasted, that we have bought home and put in a box to use at other times. Now is that time. It is not desirable, considering the implications of plastic and its often found unrecyclable properties. However, I like to think as this was going to end up in the bin when we used it the first time, we are not wasting the rest of the product and moving towards a more sustainable practice of soap bars in the future. Speaking of which, we plan to keep these in mesh bags so the product dries quicker and therefore doesn’t melt away on the side of a sink and we don’t find our money literally washing away down the drain. 

The planning of any holiday can be hard. Learning about a new place, what it has to offer and what works where and when on an itinerary. Adding all of the above into the mix has genuinely been so interesting. I have enjoyed the challenge. I find the closer we get to the trip I am more thankful for the new practices we’ve developed than the experience itself. Sustainable travel is as hard as you make it. And what is sustainable travel really? Is it leaving only footprints? Is it wearing your pants for 4 days in a row? Front, back, inside out and back to front again. Or is it finding sustainable practices that give your mind a cleaner view? That makes your conscience smile. Hiking. New experiences. New places. Morning sprints into the coldest of seas. Driving for 3 hours watching the mountains grow closer and then further away in the rear-view mirror. Maybe it’s the rewards of hiking the path of a waterfall that feels so rewarding. Maybe it’s the gratification our souls need after the last few years of struggling. It’s the rewards of giving something back. Keeping the air cleaner and the seas free from plastic. It’s stopping on a dirt road in the rain, sitting in the boot of our car, tailgate up and watching the world go by. The world that has sustained us. 

Travel needs to be more than jetting off and spending money. It needs to be more than the rubbish we produce and buy. It needs to be a way of sustaining the soul. 

Out of body experience number 342

Usually these happen in my sleep when I have the weirdest dreams. But oh no no. Not today. We have a night-time routine, the same as anyone else really. Lock the doors. Check. Close the blinds. Check. Teeth. Cats in. Evening pee. Check. Check. Check. 

Tonight as I did my sweep of the kitchen I could not help but crack myself up! Today I took in a shopping order and we bought some bits to try for our Scotland trip. As mentioned on previous blogs, we are hoping to squeeze the mighty budget of a 16 day trip to it’s suffocating point, and (!) I absolutely want to be as sustainable as possible. It’s become an obsession. 

At first we planned on living off of noodles, the potted kind, as they’re easily recycled however on a road trip Mr W and I got to talking. We do our best talking on the road. It was on a road trip in 2020, where we put the Scotland trip into motion! Don’tcha know! Anywho, we decided that travelling over a 1000 miles and walking upwards of 10-15 miles a day warranted more sustenance for our bodies so we got thinking about what else we could consume that was nutritious. As the evenings stay lighter and the days get warmer I have been craving fresh and crunchy salads. Not only is it good for the soul it does fight the PCOS that ravages my body! So win win! Oh the digression tonight is real. So we got to talking about buying some salad etc and whether we could get tinned sweetcorn and tuna to add to these salads on the road so we get a real hit of super healthy tasty foods. And then it hit us, tinned food. Metal cans. Recycling. Check! Paper labels. Recycling. Check! So we had a look online and found an array of foods in a can. Mr W is trying some different fishes in sauces, things like mackerel in a spicy tomato sauce, that he can whack on a salad while I dry heave outside. And I’ve gone all 80s retro and found some stews, and ravioli and currys in a can! I mean we’ll have to eat them cold but honestly how long would they stay warm in Scotland anyway. 

I’m made up! We need to wheedle out the good from the bad, and tonight’s delicacy was spaghetti bolognese for me, poured into a bowl. I’m not an animal. And a lamb stew for Mr W. Both got a thumbs up. So the trial will continue over the coming weeks. I have a feeling it’ll make a big difference to the trip having actual food! So team that up with the odd pot noodle and salad, we’ll be raring to go! 

So, the out of body experience came, when out of the corner of my eye I saw all these cans sitting on the countertop. Often I’ll wonder what would happen if I was getting out of the shower and a burglar was to just be there. The doors are locked, no windows open, I’m just a stupidly imaginative person who must think burglars can just pass through a keyhole. Now I’ve just wondered what if someone broke in, and thought wow, that’s a lot of cans, are these guys doomsdayers? Have they got a secret bunker, and why aren’t the cans inside the bunker? Then the image of this burglar, let’s call him Barry for shizz and giggles, wanders round in the semi dark, checking all the door frames for hidden latches to the secret doomsday bunker. 

Sorry Bazza, we’re doing an experiment, mate. Nothing more nothing less. Closest we’ve got to a secret bunker is… 

Feedback will continue on the cans! Watch this space.