NC500 Day 11: Jacobite Steam Train, Loch Eilt and Glenfinnan Viaduct

Miles: 138 Wildlife: 5 deer and several jellyfish. Camper Vans: 10 or so. Steps: 9913.

Cost of pre-bought food: £3.50 approximately

Extra costs: Lunch £11.80, Dinner £16

Today was a really special day. Something I’ve wanted to do for such a long time. Something I thought only existed in a movie and yet the moment I found out its authenticity I couldn’t help but dream. And isn’t that what travelling is about? Achieving dreams?

We left Skye at 6am this morning and other than the odd early morning deer in the road, quite literally playing the deer caught in headlights, it was exceptionally quiet. It’s become quite the norm for us to be out in the dark chasing the map ahead of us and being alone in the sleepy streets. Even today, on day 11, it isn’t easy. One thing I cannot stress enough to anyone thinking of this trip and whether it is viable is just how intense the timetable is. When I release our itinerary in the coming weeks and the alterations we have made along the way please bear in mind there has not been a day in this second week where we have felt full of energy. There are no regrets to speak of, it is so amazing here that when you are out and about your energy flourishes, it is only when you stop that it falters. You, well I, lose the plot over something so minor. This evening, when we reached our hotel, ahead of schedule, whoop, we decided to crack open some tins of food for something other than a pot noodle. We have sweetcorn, potatoes and tuna.We stood by the car for quite some time tonight packing clothing, food and valuables. When the time came to sort out dinner, I looked around and realised the tin opener was still in the car. Over the past week or so we’ve always forgotten something or another in our home on wheels, and yet tonight it tipped me over the edge. Add one cup of tiredness, one cup of exhaustion and mix into an already crazy lady and you’ll find a resemblance of the girl who sat in front of her husband upset. 

Obviously, he said it was fine. And obviously, said it was normal to not be perfect. I’m still learning to give myself a break when it comes to mistakes. It’s a slow process for sure. 

Let’s continue with what we did today shall we?

Our first drive of the day was a big one. Well, a lot bigger than recent drives have been. The drive itself took 2 ¾ hours, it did include a pitstop on a bridge so we could change our clothes. It was the first parking space we found when we could see what we were doing. The sky was lit nicely enough but by god was it cold. The last 36 hours or so have changed rapidly in temperature and we are in single digits for the first time. Changing from my joggers into a dress on the side of a cold road was definitely an experience, especially when trucks that blasted by were sending the spray up from the road. 

But it was of no real importance. I just wanted to look more like me than a scabby foot today. That’s another thing about doing these kinds of intense trips. You end up wearing simple clothes, no makeup and life becomes more about function than pretty. Clothing you don’t mind getting muddy, wet and even really sweaty!

Oh aren’t I the chatty one tonight. Go big or go home eh? Another hot chocolate for fuel, sil vou plait.  

So, dressy dress on, hair brushed and face made up, we parked up in Fort William at just past 9am and waltzed over to Tom-Na-Faire station. The excitement for one of us was very real and Mr W said it was palpable.  As the minutes ticked by, the queues grew and then, there she was. With her big black locomotor and deep burgundy carriages. The Jacobite Steam Train is popular due to how it inspired a certain author in her books. It is heavily impregnated in the Harry Potter books. The train takes Harry to school on his first day at wizarding school. The train is called the Hogwarts Express and just being near it felt magical. I felt like I had received my invite to study at Hogwarts castle and after 25 years of waiting, I was finally on my way. The platform was full of Potter and train enthusiasts alike and I was all of a dither flying around posing for photos and squealing at the steam emitted from the chimney. 

Finding our seats we settled in for the 2 hour journey to Mallaig. There was a man with a food trolley who asked ‘anything from the trolley?’ and a souvenir lady who came down the carriage. And then we crossed the very real viaduct that you see in so many of the films. Notably in the Chamber of Secrets when Ron and Harry drive their flying car up and over the moving train and down and through the viaduct arches. It is absolutely iconic and just to travel over this icon was amazing. The 9 year old girl who lives somewhere inside me was very happy indeed. 

A girl in front of me was equally excited and bought a chocolate frog and Bertie Bott’s every flavour beans from the trolley and we laughed as she tested the beans. She offered me one and laughed as I gagged at the taste of cabbage which was meant to resemble rotten egg. It was nice to be around like minded people. Harry Potter has long been a book series I return to when I am in need of comfort. I share the love of these books with my dad and many friends and believe they will stand the test of time. 

Alighting at Malliag, we wandered the harbour staring out at the water, as we have become accustomed to do, and watched the men working on the boats. Piles of fishing nets decorated the pier with their bright greens and blues. Looking down into the water I saw some seaweed floating and then something altogether more surprising next to it. A jellyfish. Brown and white, contracting and relaxing its body to ‘swim’ along. The surrounding water then came to life with even more jellyfish. Some bigger and more even bigger. Unbelievable really. You learn something new everyday. Mr W was chuffed, he has never seen one before. It is moments like that that you can’t prepare for. 

After a quick snack and exploration of the ‘Harry Potter’ store Haggard Alley, we boarded the train for the return journey. The train was quieter now and although absolutely amazing, the excitement of the morning had evaporated some and the smooth journey plus the warm carriages were making its occupants sleepy. Rain dashed itself against the window as we passed lochs, rivers, waterfalls, mountains and waving passerbys. Just to be sat there, in the very storylines that have comforted me for so long was really emotional and I felt the lifetime of dreaming was now complete.

It doesn’t matter if something seems childish, some people may think they are children’s books and movies. But the truth is, they spoke to me then and they still do now. When you live with anxiety you will often return to a subject matter, like a book or a movie as a form of comfort. It is comforting because it is familiar. It warms your heart. It is safe. Loving a story like this stays with you whether you are 7 or 70. So today, my 9 year old self was given the reins and my 34 year old self was so very happy. 

Mr W lets me be those people. It is important. Which is why after reaching Fort William, we raced in our car to the next port of call. 25 miles away from Fort William is a particularly important island for Potter fans. In fact, not too many people know about it. On the eastern side of the loch you will spy a very small, tightly populated with trees island. 

There is no parking per say but should you follow the link (at the bottom) it’ll take you to somewhere you can park which is a very short walk from the ‘viewing’ area. Pack waterproof shoes. Wander through the trees and you’ll see it as soon as you look up. The island is where Dumbledore was buried in the movies. It is THE very island. The movie makers filmed this island and then superimposed it onto a bigger loch for the movie. It is a representation of the man who we all loved as a kid. The man who guided Harry until the very end. I walked through a bog to reach my viewing point and while Mr W looked on I stood looking out in awe. It was a very personal experience. One that not many would understand. But for those that do, please go.

 

Shaking the mud off my boots, it was back to the car for another race against time. We had 40 minutes to reach the Glenfinnan visitor centre car park and head up into the hills behind it. There was no precise time being dictated to us, but miss our window and it would be another long trip back to witness this wonder. We marched for over 30 minutes uphill to get the best vantage point and turned to look back at our trial. It starts in the car parks, follows the river, passes under an arch, turns and sweeps you up a steep muddy hill. 

And there you are. Looking down at the curving Glenfinnan viaduct. You are on top of the world. Literally. When will it come? You sit, stand, pace in excitement. Time ticks by. 5 minutes. 10 minutes. 20 minutes. The amount of people on the surrounding hills grows. They too know what is coming. Out of the silence you hear the sound. And then there she is. With her black engine and burgundy carriages. The ‘Hogwarts Express’. Passing over the viaduct emitting her steam. The whistling is loud enough to hear even up at this height and you trace it, without blinking, along its pathway. The steam is pure white. The carriages gleam. The passengers wave. It snakes its way around the viaduct and disappears into the foothills of the surrounding mountains. 

And you are enthralled. Happy to finally be here. Lifelong dream accomplished. 

As we drove to our hotel, we saw the sunset sending pink clouds over the top of Ben Nevis and I realised magic is everywhere as long as willing to see it.

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NC500 Day 10 – Fairy Glen, Quiraing and Mealt Falls

Miles: 131. Wildlife: an otter. Camper Vans: 50+. Steps: 9543

Cost of pre-bought food: £3.70 approximately
Extra costs: £18 for dinner and £8 for lunch

As I changed my walking boots for something less bulky and smelly tonight I noticed a stone lodged in the tread. As I went to remove it, I paused, why remove it? Let it stay there as a reminder of this trip. This marvelous, close to ending, trip.

I’m happy to say the itinerary changed a lot today. We started the day four hours later than planned after staying in bed to avoid the rain. We did the itinerary in reverse and cut some stops out due to time and weather restraints. The biggest loss was the walk up the Old Man of Storr. It was gutting but sometimes that’s what happens. You can’t control the weather but you can control how you react to it. We already know we’ll be returning here and have it in mind for then.

So, what did we do today?

Well, avoiding the rain didn’t exactly go to plan. But let’s start at the beginning.

We drove the 90 minutes to the Fairy Glen in Uig, although it took quite a lot longer due to trying to find a deli or cafe for a snack. There is certainly slim pickings on the island and 50% of the places we found were closed for the rest of the year. We eventually found a shop and praised it for having the typical road snacks everyone requires.

Onwards! We made it to the Fairy Glen at midday and were surprised to see how busy the car park was. The Isle of Skye is definitely busier than any other place we have stopped on this tour. We spoke to our accommodation host this evening and he said most tourists go to Edinburgh, Loch Ness and Skye. If they do it all at once or over time I’m not sure but it certainly makes sense with the changes we have seen. For instance the car parks are mostly paved, taken care of and are not free. This was not the case on the mainland. We’ve spent more here on parking than the entire trip so far. It’s mad.

Anyway, we dressed to protect us against the strings winds sweeping the land and started our walk. As we walked up one hill to look down into the glen, you guessed it, the rain came. Prepared we continued on our way until the rain dropped off my nose. Sheltering under trees we waited a while until we called time on it. Disappointed at being thwarted again we head back to the car. While drying off, blue skies soared over us and invited us back to the glen.

The glen itself is exceptionally strange and only from a great height can you really appreciate the landscape. The lumps and bumps that protrude from the earth are fascinating. As the weather started to decline and the routes up into the mounds were really slippery we decided to send up the drone and ‘Marv’ caught a few pictures before the rain returned. Satisfied that we had given it another try we returned to the car once more.



Ten minutes later we parked up for another walk. Rha waterfall is absolutely awe-inspiring. It is really easy to find. A very short walk and just great. It hides behind some cottages and provides such a loud roar that it prevents you from worrying and thinking about life. I should think that if I were to live near a waterfall it would be my escape. Just somewhere to sit and let go of all my anxieties. The noise of the water would drown them out. Perfection.


Happy that the weather had improved and that the walk was short we drove to the next stop. Another car park, another charge, but wow the Quiraing viewing point is seriously amazing. You can literally see where the land has slipped. It’s really difficult to describe. But there are monoliths of rock and earth jutting out at all angles and shapes.

The grass caresses every one of the waves of land and it is truly indescribable. It is also one of the windiest places I have ever been. I had to stand behind Mr W twice just to hide from the onslaught and compose myself. Hands red raw and hoods soggy we clicked away with our cameras and stood in quiet awe. I think when we come back it would be a stop to return to. There is a 3-4 hour hike towards the rocks called The Prison and The Needle. They, like the Old Man of Storr, look absolutely iconic and what is life but to want to be near an icon and gaze upon it at one’s leisure.



When Mr W’s hands regained their feeling we made the next very short drive to Mealt Falls. The car park is free! Wahey! After missing the view of Talisker waterfall crashing down the cliffs yesterday due to the visibility I am ecstatic to say that this cliff dropping waterfall was seen in all its splendor. It’s spray was sent our way via the wind and I did not mind one bit! The crashing water on the rocks from the sea met the water from the falls and it just felt magical. Another scene from a movie. I’m sure I’ll remember what movie at some point but maybe you will know where you have seen something similar!



With a pat on the back for making it to 80% of our visits today, we treated ourselves to our second visit to Portree for their tasty chips and watched love on the harbour as we ate. There was no seal bobbing about today but just watching the water was enough for us. The waters here are tidal but as the wind blew against the surface different shapes appeared and made for great entertaining. The fishing boats all swayed in the moving waters and cormorants dived for their next meal. Someone beyond our line of sight was playing the bagpipes and the with the seagulls calling it made for a very surreal moment. I’m kind of in love with the whole picture.


As we drove back to our accommodation we stopped numerous times to take photos of the sun changing the colours of the mountains, lochs and clouds. Pink hues were replaced with milky blues and mountains became silhouettes against the neighbours. Our journey was extended time after time with every click of the camera. We spoke about how much this trip had meant to both of us. We have two days left in Scotland before our trip descends into England. With everything that has happened with travel due to covid I find myself wondering if we ever would have found our passion for hiking and rural retreats on our own. It has changed so much about our lives for the better.

Stopping again for more photos, I glanced down at the water searching for those yearned for fins and I saw movement in the water. It was too close to shore to be anything big. Lifting my binoculars I watched as a slinky body climbed out and up some rocks. An otter. The first I’ve ever seen in the wild. It’s as if it knew I needed a pick-me-up after my sadness about leaving had left me quiet.

And then he disappeared. Leaving me with my new smile and a beautiful memory.

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NC500 Day 9 – Isle of Skye – Fairy Pools and Talisker Bay Beach

Miles: 152.  Wildlife: 19 deer, 1 stag and a harbour seal. Camper Vans: 45+. Steps: 15906.

Cost of pre-bought food: £5.50 approximately

Extra costs: £17 for two cheeseburgers and chips and onions rings in Portree

5:45am our alarm went off. It’s been a while since we’ve been up that early on this trip. After a quick gulp down of some very stodgy porridge we threw out bags in the car and set off into the darkness. It was time to attempt the infamous Bealach Na Bà in the dark and also, it would seem, in the rain. Lots of people would say that the weather is what makes a holiday a holiday and yet it doesn’t really bother me. I’m exceptionally surprised we are nine days into our trip and only really had the odd shower. 

As we climbed the Applecross peninsula we were surprised to find three other motorists on the road and one very brave cyclist. Visibility was extremely poor and at times we were barely doing 17 miles an hour. As we came to the very top of the mountain we planned to stop and yet there was absolutely nothing to see. Until there was. As I gazed out into the void the milky clouds presented the perfect background for two silhouettes. Mummy and baby deer. I squealed in my seat at Mr W. ‘Deer! Deer!’. He paused in his driving as I took as many pictures as possible. As I told him he could carry on I took one last look back and my jaw dropped. ‘STAG!!!’ I shouted. He slammed on the brakes. We had been waiting a week to see one of these beauties. And through the clouds, rain and darkness there he was in all his splendour. Big shaggy coat, huge antlers and a quick careless glance right at me. This was his land. We were only visitors. Despite the rain and wind and cold and darkness I felt lucky to be there right at that moment. With no other intrusive eyes. No people edging closer for a better photo. Just us and him. 

The sky did not exist. We were surrounded by thick clouds and so we continued on our way. It was time to carry on down the most challenging part of the route, the extreme hairpin turns. Although extremely quieter than yesterday, and therefore giving us more time, it was still pretty mind boggling and yet strangely exhilarating to twist and turn the car down the mountain. As we came down the east side of the pass the light around us changed as the sun came up from its horizon haunt. We spotted another 16 deer along the lower foothills of the mountain and they were much more skittish than the three at the top. Maybe the sunlight that had started to flood the space was showing them us and spooking them. 

The drive after the morning safari was pretty uneventful and I was glad of it. Our energy levels have been lacking severely in the last few days. So we took our time and stopped along the way to snack and disengage from the rolling tarmac. 

By 8:30am we were crossing the Skye Bridge into the Isle of Skye. Energy levels boosted by our excitement of visiting this place buzzed to the surface. 

Our first stop was at Coo View point, a particularly pretty lookout on the mountains of Skye. By the roadside were a few Highlands Coos. With their Reddy brown shaggy coats, long curving horns and exceptionally big, wet noses they are among some of the most adorable animals in abundance in Scotland. I have begun calling out ‘Cooooo’ everytime we pass them in the fields. They, like the stag, give you an eye and then carry on with what they’re doing. You are not a part of their world. You are the ones who are fascinated. 

The wind whipped around the car as we approached our next stop at Sligachan Bridge. One of the top sites to see in Skye I was looking forward to seeing it in person. And yet the most fascinating moment of our visit was seeing 10-12 people placing their faces in the water flowing beneath the bridge while a man counted to 7 and the surrounding crowds clapped. Mr W and I took one look at each other and both had the same bemused and confused look. After a quick Google I found that the reason people do this act is for eternal beauty. As Mr W pointed out, if we attempted it, we wouldn’t have the energy to sit back up and we walked away laughing. 

We were making good timing on the plans today and had an hour or so extra time to play with. We made the short drive to Glenbrittle to visit the famous Fairy Pools. Even at 10:30am this place was busy! We have become so accustomed to quiet walks while in Scotland that we were quite taken back by the amount of people around us. We also concluded that not many of the visitors were Scottish. The friendliness of the past week had all but disappeared. Not very many hellos or shows of politeness at all. It was a shame. 

We looked down to the pools from the car park and strapped on our boots. This was a lengthy walk. The descent down to the first bridge on the walk was simple enough and then the fun began. Large rocks made the walk up and around the pools slightly more challenging and after what I can only guess as a very busy summer the viewing areas around the pools were exceptionally muddy. However, it felt very relaxed to clamber over rocks and boulders while walking along the river. Even though we were steadily climbing up the mountain with every step it was a very gradual ascent and not too taxing. 

The fairy pools themselves are really and truly very pretty. They zig zag their way down the vast expanse of mountainside and have carved their way mystically through the rock. Imagine them like a curving staircase which at every other step has the most beautiful waterfall, or in some cases twin/triplet waterfalls.

Beneath the waterfalls, sculpted pools of rock in hues of blue and green greet the splashing liquid from above and somehow, despite the surrounding peat fields and flora and fauna, the water is absolutely crystal clear. The entire river itself is also just as clear. The rocks that have long been left behind by the cutting water are jagged and gnarly and yet also smooth in places. They are white and grey and darkest black and then green, blue and orange. Everything here is vying for your attention and as you notice one beauty another snaps your head in the opposite direction. 

As we neared the top of the pools more water feel from above. Only this time it was the clouds that sent it our way. Zipping up our coats and drawing up our hoods around our necks we persisted in our mission. It is a truly mesmerising place. Each pool, fall and twist and turn is different. They are stunning. 

7000+ steps later and one discarded layer of clothing, we shoved a snack in our gobs and turned towards our next walk. This one, I had waited for for oh such a long time. You may have noticed I have a slight, wee, tiny obsession with waterfalls and yet this one was going to be entirely new in its surroundings. Talisker Bay Beach is home to a supreme of the waterfall world. It crashes down the cliffside from the river Allt Mheididh and in high winds can send its spray down onto the beach itself. 

We saw… absolutely none of this. Disaster struck in the form of more rain on our approach to the beach and despite forcing our limbs to carry on despite their fatigue the sun god’s were not willing to award us with the view of the Talisker waterfall. I could have stood on that beach and screamed and yet with water soaking through my clothings, rain drenching my face and Mr W looking like he’d run into the sea fully clothed, I couldn’t help but laugh. The sheep around us baa’d and the wind howled as it pushed literal waves of rain across the scene before us. The adventure was this. 

Tonight we have sat and made peace with the fact that tomorrow may change slightly due to the weather and despite the minor disappointment we are well aware of our limitations and the fact that one day we’ll be back to complete what is already a pretty amazing trip. Until then, we get a lay in and a cup of tea in bed. It turns out what makes a holiday is you and what you love doing with the person who makes you laugh every day. 

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NC500 Day 8 – Red Point Beach, Victoria Falls and the Bealach Na Bà

Miles: 95. Wildlife: 14 deer and a heron. Camper Vans: 30+. Steps: 5808.

Cost of pre-bought food: £8.40 approximately
Extra costs: nothing

Waking up the night after you were poorly is never going to be pleasant and Scotland did not help with its grey skies this morning. Arriving at the accommodation in the rain last night and waking up to billowing clouds this morning was a total mood killer. We had a simple breakfast of toast at our accommodation and then made for the road. Today would be better. I’m just stubborn that way. 

As the day around us woke up, we passed something I feel like I have only seen in a movie before. Loch Bad na-Achlaise in Gairloch acted like a mirror showcasing the mountain behind it and the morning sky. Not a single ripple marked its surface and it was utterly mesmerising to behold. Its glassy surface was untouched by the waking day.  

We drove from Aultbea to Red Point beach where we found ourselves rather uninspired by the lack of redness in the sand. After all this was the draw and it fell rather flat. In fact we spent more time talking to the farmer’s cows than looking at the disappointing beach.

We dragged our tired bodies up to the viewpoint at the top of the sand dune (you see, what exhausted body doesn’t need an early morning walk up the side of a deep, tilted carpet of sand) and through the early morning haze we saw the Isle of Skye. Now, we actually saw it from the road, but either way, it was amazing seeing it before we head there tomorrow. Mr W pointed out that the beach itself was not as good as Achmelvich yesterday and I said you simply couldn’t compare the two. This beach was more about the different colour of the sand and how peculiar it was, yesterday was about pure luxury and the shock factor of how somewhere so picture postcard perfect could be in the UK.

The cows were bloody cute by the way. Although no amount of hellos could tempt them for a big ol pat on the head. 

Determined, we reshuffled our belongings in the car to try and create some order and then pursued the day ahead. As we approached our next stop, the early grey clouds lifted and blue skies pushed the white fluffy clouds around above us. The sun was burning hot and I couldn’t help but feel myself come to life. How is it that we prepared for monsoons and were given this?

Victoria Falls is one of the first places that we have visited on the west side of the highlands that has been signposted. The walk is very short from the car park and on a level path. Excellent news for the tired traveller. You are greeted by a large wooden viewpoint that gives you the most spectacular vantage point for the falls across the gorge. This place was busy! People coming up, snapping their cameras and leaving. It prompted me to remind myself to take in a moment rather than just capture it on film. It’s important to be able to look back at the pictures you take and remember just why you thought it was prudent to take the shot in the first place. Was it amazing? Was it beautiful? What did you enjoy about it? I like to think by writing these pieces and taking my photos I am creating something not just for the passing reader but for me to look back on and remember all these wonderful moments. Victoria Falls did not disappoint and I pushed my aches and pains to the back of my mind to hike up the hill and look down on the falls from above. They are loud and impressive. Just as they should be. Behind the falls are large sloping rocks where a slim, wide curtain of water flows freely. It was like a draping of silver that had caught the light. Transfixing.

Beyond the falls all 13 miles of Loch Maree stretched back to the horizon and matched the sky with its light blue surface. What a beautiful place to take a moment to yourself.

After our short visit to Victoria falls, we paused at the Glen Docherty viewpoint and then made the very journey we had been waiting for for so long. 

The Bealach Na Bà is a single track road that winds its way through the Applecross Peninsula. It reaches a height of over 2000ft and carries a fair share of warnings for new drivers and larger vehicles. It is the steepest ascending road in the UK and was absolutely thrilling. The tight hairpin turns were some of the only parts that had barriers where all others just used the safety of prayer and perfect steering. At the very top of the pass you can park and jump out of the car to shake off the adrenalin (or the poop out of your pants) and enjoy the tremendous view over the mountain to the Isle of Skye. Everyone who was emerging from their cars was smiling and laughing about the journey they had just taken. It was a very happy place. 

I’m starting to realise that this IS a happy place. 90% of the people you pass say hello. We’ve stopped and talked to so many new people and it’s been so easy to just chit chat. It’s clear to see why this country deserves its place on the must-see travel lists. Will we come back? Absolutely. We just need time to recover from this visit first!   

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NC500 Day 7: Clashnessie Falls, Achmelvich Bay and Corrieshalloch Gorge

Miles: 139. Wildlife: 5 deer and two herons. Camper Vans: 30+. Steps: 12752.

Cost of pre-bought food: £2.20 approximately
Extra costs: £51

I can’t believe it’s day seven already. We’ve been on our tour for seven whole days. That is insane.

We had a chance to have some oats for breakfast today at an actual table in our accommodation. Was a much needed change from sitting on a bed.

Our first stop today was an hour north and along a road we travelled yesterday. We saw rain clouds setting in over Loch Broom and counted ourselves lucky that the trip so far has seen very little rain.

The landscape here is just out of this world. The small winding rivers cut their way through the fern strewn landscapes and up in the mountains small spouts of water force their way down the rock face. Everything is competing for attention. The boulders with their slate grey faces glimmer with dew. The moss springs up and says hello in the often harshest of exposures. Rivers bubble. Lochs hold secrets within their black waters. And there we are navigating our way through these monoliths of nature.



Clashnessie Falls is in a very small village near Clachtoll. There is lots of space for parking opposite the beach and it is not a long walk along the main road until you come to a sign for the falls. My advice is to walk slightly further up the road and slip around the gate on the left. This will save you one scramble over the big rocks.

There is a path that leads up and over the small hills until you reach the river. There are two options. Follow the fence line. Or cross the river on the stepping stones and follow the path that way. We chose the fence line path. After reading lots of advice online, I was expecting a muddy but simple walk. This unfortunately was anything but. The right hand route along the fence was extremely boggy with rocks that were extremely unsteady in the peat field. We wanted to push on so badly, as you can see the falls ahead of you and whilst they are simply spectacular the walk was just proving too much. There comes a time when your enjoyment has to come first and this was a time to stop and adjust our expectations. Mr W as ever was supportive when my disappointment flooded into my face. I guess sometimes you can’t always trust the advice online. I hope when we return to Scotland in a few years that the ground around the river has dried slightly and we can attempt the walk again. The falls looked spectacular and oh so tempting indeed. The stepping stones across the river were really quite dangerous and as we carry quite a bit of photography equipment with us it simply was not worth the risk. I also like the use of my ankles.



Disappointed but determined we set off for Achmelvich Bay. Now this was a time for something new entirely. Wild swimming! Parking in the free/donation welcome car park was easy enough and had lots of spaces. We loaded up our bags and made the very short walk to the bay. The sand here is pure white. It could have been the Maldives and if it wasn’t for the nip in the wind I could have sworn we were back on our Honeymoon. The water had pockets of navy blue and bright turquoise. The sun lit up the waters to such a degree that there was only one thing we could do. Jump straight in.

With fear causing some delays in our movements but the draw of the waters inevitably proving too strong we zipped up our wetsuits and got stuck in. And would you believe it the sun disappeared and with it the pockets of turquoise. The sand under foot was as soft as cotton. There was very little seaweed not pebbles to contend with. As I stepped into the water I felt content that it didn’t seem too cold at all. The water itself is very shallow and has no rocks for you to lose your footing. And then it got very cold very quickly. Up to my hips, I watched Mr W go for it and take the leap underwater. He is one brave man. I got in the water up to my shoulders and started to feel okay. That is until I realised I couldn’t actually feel my feet anymore. It is honestly exhilarating. And I can now say I have swam in the North Atlantic Ocean. How special is that!



I came out of the water long enough to let the sun warm my skin and got talking to a lady who lived nearby. Her name was Sheona and she had purposely walked over to commend us for taking the plunge. She said the water was at 10°! And yet it’s the warmest it will ever get. So despite the fact it’s the coldest I have ever felt it’s still not the norm up here. Haha.

Sitting here now I remember feeling extremely self conscious in something as tight as a wetsuit and yet as soon as that water hit my body my cares drifted away. When I came out of the water and stood in the sun like a basking penguin I unrolled the suit from my shoulders and brought it down to my waist and stood there with my bralet on. That’s how I stood as I talked to the stranger. And I didn’t care. I just felt like me.

Mr W came out of the water and after a warm up from the sun I just had to go back in. This visit was slightly longer and I had to start listening to my body about the temperature. It was getting hard to make my limbs do what they were told.

We helped each other out of our wetsuits, laid them on a large rock in the sun and took our time changing and enjoying the beautiful scene. We managed to spend way more time than planned just enjoying ourselves and as we walked back over the sand dunes I thanked the beach for a truly wonderful morning.

Needing sustenance we bought pies at the Lochinver Larder and grabbed hot drinks at Sovi’s coffee. As we got back in the car, drinks in hand, the heavens opened and we were treated to our first Scottish downpour. Not bad for a whole week eh?



Soon enough we drove out the other side of the rain clouds and arrived into Ullapool. It was time to treat Mr W, he loves seafood and I had heard of a place that sells it as fresh as it comes. The Seafood Shack in Ullapool had at least 7 items on the menu and we had the Haddock. The space around the ‘shack’ has a great vibe, with big wooden seating areas and a sail sun shade it is really welcoming. The food itself was absolutely delicious and sitting in the sun with my husband was one of the biggest highlights of this trip. He also bought us a huge tartan sherpa blanket. What’s a girl to do but be madly in love!



Re-energised but still slowly fading we are now both exceptionally glad that our final visit of the day was relatively short. Corrieshalloch Gorge National Park is 20 minutes from Ullapool and is really well signposted, something that I find the west coast of Scotland sometimes lacks. The parking was free but only because the machine was broken so keep this in mind should you visit. After a fairly easy downhill hairpin walk we came across the bridge across the gorge. With only a six person capacity and a slight sway as you walk it all adds to the feeling of danger. After all, the gorge is 60 metres deep. The waterfall that crashes down beneath you is loud and extremely ferocious. Mr W is not a fan at all but I could not resist leaning right over and tracing the waters down the gorge to the pools below. What a marvel!

Continuing on over the bridge and down the path we came to the observation deck that overhangs the void. It gives you the most impressive view of the waterfall, bridge and gorge itself. With its metal grate it again is not for the faint hearted but is irresistible all the same. What’s life without a little intrigue!



Even though we are half way through our trip I still haven’t really understood the magnitude of this place. It is unapologetic in its ‘get stuck in’ attitude and yet there is beauty in its very raw rural way.

Sitting here close to exhaustion I find myself eager to wake up tomorrow and see what else will be thrown at us.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/01/17/highlight-seven-of-the-nc500-paradise/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/01/15/nc500-day-7-itinerary/

NC500 Day 6 – Smoo Cave, Wailing Widow Falls and Ardvreck Castle

Miles: 116. Wildlife: nil. Camper Vans: 20+. Steps: 8300.

Cost of pre-bought food: £3.80 approximately

Extra costs: £4

Today we changed our plans slightly due to the weather. With a 10 mile hike ahead of us in the pouring rain we opted to have a later start than originally planned. And I can tell you it was well worth the change. 

We left our accommodation at 8am and said goodbye to the eastern part of Scotland. This part of the trip was set to be more challenging on the road and rather more mountainous. The road here is single track with alot of passing places to help out. It certainly takes some getting used to but it really is easy enough. 

Our route took us anti-clockwise along the northern coast of Scotland from Bettyhill and I started to really understand why people do this route. As we drove down from Coldbackie we were introduced with the Kyle of Tongue. What an absolutely breathtaking place. Having so many passing places on the road means there are very few parking places, or laybys, to get out in and take photos. So on the approach to the bridge at the kyle, after seeing a parking area, we did not hesitate to pool over. It is an astonishing place with mountains surrounding the water, the still waters reflecting the sky and a serene sense of calm everywhere you turn to look. We took our time to really drink in the scene. I do love to find gems like this alongside fulfilling plans. This is what I’m enjoying about road trips: you will see things you never would have thought were anything special on a map. 

We continued our way through the mountains. It is hard to put into words just how phenomenal the route up this way is. The colours of the heathers. The ferns. The tiny streams and rivers that wind their way around the foothills. The cap-like clouds that pass over the mountain tops. Every turn feels like a picture perfect moment. After what felt like a very long and beautiful drive we arrived at Smoo Cave. 

This was one of the places that everyone we have spoken to and every review online has said is a must see. It was for that reason I felt completely shocked at the size of the car park. It barely held 10 cars. There are only 100 or so steps down to the cave from the car park and although they are rather large steps there is a sturdy handrail. The view you get out to sea is fabulous and as you walk across the bridge it’s definitely easy to see why this place is so loved. The large cave was made by the sea but there is a smaller inner cave which has been punched through from outside by a waterfall. The waterfall is found at the end of a wooden walkway and is just fantastic. I do think my obsession with waterfalls is getting out of hand. The water falls into a large pool and then moves into a small river out of the cave. It is absolutely fascinating. The walls are decorated with vivid green mosses and algae which change their colours and depth with every step you take. The only cave in the UK with both types of erosion and the largest of its kind in this country too. Now you know something completely pointless to know, until, maybe, it comes up on a quiz show. Just give me 10% of your winnings! 

Now, I’m not going to shout this too loud, but something I love about being in the country is just how friendly people are. One of the best things I’ve seen up here are the honesty boxes. At our accommodation last night there was an honesty caravan! Filled with souvenirs and dried food items. Today at Smoo cave was an honesty box filled with knitwear items. It was honestly adorable and I may have bought a hat… a lovely green one.   

With my new purchase in hand, we took the short drive up to Durness beach. OH. My. Gah. It is stunning. Blinking through the wind I had to remind myself that I was indeed in the UK and that the sand actually was white. The water too was out of this world. Where white sand ended, turquoise water started. In Scotland. In the UK. Just… wow!

Tearing ourselves away from the temptation to swim (why did we do that) we continued on our journey and left northern Scotland behind entirely. Our route took us down the western edge of the coast and towards Scourie. Our very brief next stop appeared out of practically nowhere and even though it was a tick on the ol’ list. It really was impressive. The Kylesku bridge stretches across Loch a’ Chàirn Bhàin and pausing in the car park before it we had the most amazing view of the Quinag mountain range. Mr W was very happy with the sun poking its head out behind the range and lighting up the clouds lazily loping their way over the top. Everyone has their quirks eh.  

Something I am noticing a lot about Scotland is the places you want to find often only have a postcode. The next place was no different, all the guides online will tell you the postcode or that it is found by a layby on a particular road. That is why when I come to adjust my itinerary before I share them with you, I will be using the ‘what 3 words’ method to help you find places much easier. 

Wailing Widow Falls is hidden from the road and can be approached from the bottom or the top. We parked at the top deciding it would be a different approach for us to stand at the top of the falls. And here, hilarity ensued. I put on my walking boots because I’m just crap without them, Mr W left his trainers on. All the guides say it is a short 300 yards to the viewpoint. Superb. Just 20 yards or so into the walk we were presented with boggy pathways. Beyond that were large sloping rocks and even more soggy situations. The ground kept getting wetter and wetter as we tried to navigate our way across. Usually there is a footfall made pathway to follow but it looked as if everyone that had come before us and opted to choose their own path to avoid the water. By following footsteps we were met with deep puddles of thick mud and it was hard to find where to walk. After much negotiating, we found the edge of the gorge and saw the very top of the waterfall. It was too unstable and muddy at the edge to get a decent look and so we decided to return to the car. The waterfall itself crashes down and out of the relatively small Loch na Gainmhich. Something new entirely for our eyes to gaze upon. But this was something that was not meant to be. 

On our return to the car, Mr W and I took separate paths as best suited to our shoes. With lots of promises from him, I felt reassured that the ground wouldn’t swallow me up and took the waterlogged route many a time. He on the other hand was finding the paths harder due to his footwear. I remember stepping over a large boggy spot and turning to see how he was getting on. He was slightly bent over and at an odd angle. He was reaching for the ground while keeping one leg lifted. Then he plucked something out of the ground. Not off of the ground. OUT of it. His shoe. He looked up at me smiling. The bog had swallowed his trainer while we kept on moving. And I could not stop laughing. He decided it would be best to keep the trainer off and just replace the socks in the car. We were still a way from being dry and yet every step he took squelched and turned the wool to a very soggy counterpart. He jumped puddles, leapt across mud and generally made good old ‘clean’ fun of the situation. I on the other hand got a stitch from laughing so much and I swear to god I nearly wet myself.  

We advised other people who had parked near us of the situation and went on our merry soggy way. We spent our final visit of the day at Ardvreck Castle. It is in a very sorry state and is all but collapsed. However it was a pretty and short walk that ended the day nicely. There are many houses and outbuildings in the Highlands that are in a similar way and even though I’m sure it would be great to see them restored, there is something very alluring when they are in this condition. 

Tomorrow is another big day. As I sit here writing this to send out into the void, my eyes are drooping, the shower is waiting and before I know it, the next adventure will begin!

Highlight six of the NC500 – The weakness in me
NC500 Day 6 – Itinerary

NC500 Day 5 – John O’Groats, Duncansby Stacks and Dunnet Head

Miles: 101 Wildlife: three seals and dozens of gannets. Camper Vans: 30+. Steps: 8783.

Cost of pre-bought food: £2 approximately

Extra costs: Bakery £14, Dinner £5.60

With every good intention laid out, today was not the best day of the trip so far. I’ve said throughout my whole blog page that I will be honest and I won’t be stopping now. We woke up early, I had very little sleep and oh hey back pain, to start the day off well. I had a madeleine and custard for breakfast and I think Mr W had a nutrigrain bar. I’m laughing even as I type that. 

We made our way up the east coast of Scotland from Wick to John O’Groats. In 2017 we visited Lands End and have waited to reach the ‘other side’ of the UK ever since. Not necessarily a bucket list travel moment, but definitely a big tick off some list that sits somewhere in the back of our minds. 

The famous John O’Groats is so much bigger than I thought it would be and arriving at 7:25 meant we were the only ones there. This made taking photos of the famous signpost so much easier. It also meant that using a tripod with a countdown was less nerdy. Although windy, it wasn’t cold and the sun was peeping over the horizon. After waiting so long I’m really happy with how the photos came out. The car park here is £3 for the entire day and you could easily spend a few hours here wandering the coastal trail, eating in one of the many restaurants and buying gifts to take home. We did none of this! The restaurants were not open and we had plans further along the coast. 

Ten minutes drive away is the free car park for Duncansby lighthouse from which you can walk to view the Duncansby Stacks.This has long been on Mr W’s list of things to see on the NC500 and I’m happy to say the sun came out for him as we reached the end of the walk. The return walk from the car park, including time to take pictures, took less than an hour. The walk itself is up and over a rolling hill and is easy enough to walk. The view of the pyramidal shaped stacks was pretty spectacular and watching the cliff face change colours as the sun jumped between clouds was really beautiful. 

With our stomachs rumbling, we headed back to the car and dug out the wet clothing we had washed at the hotel the night before. We fashioned a washing line in the back of the car and set off back to John O’Groats. Food was on the agenda. On arrival we noticed that the shops and restaurants were now open and a lot more people had arrived. We approached several eateries only to find their food started at 12. Finding this really strange, we were left hungry and disappointed. 

Our next stop changed our moods dramatically. Annie’s bakery is a 15 minute drive from John O’Groats and we have been trying to work out how it makes a profit since. Mr W happily heard the word ‘bacon’ and immediately placed an order for a bacon roll in addition to a snickers slice (for later) which was absolutely massive. It is two portions in sizing if not three. I ordered a chicken and chorizo pasty with a very very cute biscoff tart. The whole set up of this bakery is very professional and yet so very welcoming. Two cats approached me as I fell out of the car and my spirit just soared. I do miss my furry buggers when we travel. After ordering the absolutely delicious looking food and buying some trinkets from the shop we sat down to eat in the sunflower decorated conservatory. This place is happy. Yellow bench seating, people turning up in RV’s to park alongside locals. The staff are just so friendly. I returned to the counter to buy some rolls and got talking to the owner, Annie. She opened a wholesaler business in 2013 and just a few years ago decided to open this place and it has become a gem of the NC500. It is honestly such a lovely thing to see someone who is so passionate about what they do excel in a rather large way. I will recommend this place to anyone who comes up to do the NC500. It is a very happy place indeed. 

In my search for the unique, I found another very peculiar little gem approximately ten minutes from Annies. As you approach this place you feel like you are trespassing on someone’s driveway. In a way you are. Caithness Smokehouse is on the side of a bungalow in a very quiet rural area. There is one sign pointing you on your way on the main road, another painted sign as you approach the drive and then a more official looking one on the actual building. Throwing caution to the wind, I pressed the ‘Ring’ doorbell and was immediately greeted by a woman in white apron and blue hairnet. She asked what we were looking for. And I immediately felt like I had gotten the wrong impression of this place. I explained why we were there and she said she didn’t have much food left. We briefly discussed what we were interested in and she said she would be back. She turned to open an enormous walk in refrigerator and then appeared with a tray of smoked fish and cheeses. Mr W’s eyes bulged. This was in someone’s back garden! We bought some hot smoked salmon and smoked Orkney cheese and I asked the lady if this was a full time operation. She said that it absolutely was and that they supplied shops all around Scotland. The actual smokehouse was really no bigger than a small bungalow and you’d never know it was there. If you are coming up this way and aiming to try some self catering maybe try here. It is unlike anything else I’ve ever known. 

After this little foodie tour, we drove out to Dunnet Head. A lot of people think that John O’Groats is the most northerly point in the UK and yet for some reason this is wrong. It is actually Dunnet Head and it only seemed fitting to add this to our plans. The car park is £1 for two hours and although there is a RSPB site here, I found it to be rather underwhelming. It was interesting enough to watch the gannets torpedo themselves into the sea to catch their lunch and scour the water’s surface for a glimpse of whales and dolphins, but should you need more entertainment, I’m afraid it is not for you. It is, I think, a place to say you’ve been, take the obligatory selfie and then leave. This particular part of Scotland is really quite bare. I would say the time of year we are here, when the ferns are dying back and the heather has spent its purple flowers, is perhaps the least prettiest time to view the moorlands. Saying that, it again is unlike anything else I’ve seen on this planet and therefore should be appreciated for educating our minds.  

We had some time to kill before our next stop on the itinerary and as we drove through Dunnet spotted a huge curving beach of almost white sand. Pulling over, we were greeted with Dunnet’s Bay. It is very strange to see something so idyllic amongst the almost harsh landscape of northern Scotland. It feels as if it doesn’t belong. But there it was. 

After a brief walk, we joined our tour at the Dunnet Bay Gin Distillery. With trying something new in mind, we approach the 90 minutes with open minds. I can definitely say that I learned something new and found the manufacturing process particularly interesting. The taste testing however was not my cup of tea (gin) and I can confidently say that now I’ve tried botanical gin it is not for me. Mr W was rather fond of two of the flavours and was much better at the tasting than I was. I am glad we went because even though I didn’t particularly find any value in it, a new experience whether it be good or bad is still a new experience. And what can possibly be wrong with that. 

I will leave this blog following my own advice. A new experience cannot be met with frustration or disappointment. Today wasn’t the best day on this tour and I’ve been particularly hard on myself for not enjoying it as much as I thought I would. I’m reminding myself that not everyone enjoys the same cup of tea nor does everyone require tonic in their gin. Tomorrow is a new day. Who knows where it may lead?

NC500 Day 5 – Itinerary
Highlight five of the NC500 – Our wee cabin

NC500 Day 4: Tarbat Ness Lighthouse, Dornoch Beach and Big Burns Falls

Miles: 205 Wildlife: one bouncy deer and cormorants. Camper Vans: 30+. Steps: 11652.

Cost of pre-bought food: £3.24 approximately
Extra costs: Breakfast £16, Cocoa mountain £11.40, Dinner £24

Today something kind of special happened. 

We cancelled our first plan and the world didn’t implode. After a pretty crappy night’s sleep and wanting to arrive earlier at our accommodation this evening we made the choice to have a decent breakfast, at Tesco (haha), and spread our day out on a kinder schedule. 

With bellies full of coffee and tasty hot food we arrived at our first destination by 10am. With a very short walk from the car we approached Tarbat Lighthouse as the rain clouds chased away the morning sunrise. Having invested in a drone Mr W and I took the extra time to perform our third test flight. Very aware of the regulations concerning flying drones near people and cars, we landed ‘Marv’ on the path with us as a couple approached with their pooch. Obviously I asked if I could say hello and black Lab ‘Malt’ gave me a slobbery hello in return. The couple were interested in our photography and asked where we were from and where we would be going in Scotland. We said all the way up and the man said, ‘oh up to Shetland?’ You learn something new every day. Down in Essex, all the way up means to the top of mainland Scotland. But here, it means Orkney and the Shetland Islands. The woman told us she lives nearby and the loop around the lighthouse was their dog walking route. I mean…! The man, unfortunately we didn’t get their names, was dressed in a red coat which had stitching that said he was part of an arctic expedition in 2007. Absolutely crazy who you meet on your travels isn’t it? People here are so friendly! We said goodbye as they said the weather could turn any minute. 

Playing the director while Mr W drove the drone was fun and helped us see our surroundings from an eagle eye perspective. The lighthouse itself is beautiful and with a free car park you can’t go wrong. On the road that leads through Tain there was a field lined with haybales and then sunflowers, as they danced in the wind I felt my mind lift from its tired slumber. As we drove on to our next stop a deer ran alongside our car and I felt the thrill of the wildness of this country.  

We made a brief stop in Dornoch to try the hot chocolate at Cocoa Mountain, tasty if you need a sugary pick up, and then made our way onto Dornoch beach. The beach is found if you drive right through the town, which is absolutely beautiful, as we have found other little towns along our route to be. The beach is famous for its seal watching and I was eager to ‘cop a squat’ and look out to sea. It became pretty clear really quickly that the chance of seeing the seals was very small. The water was very shallow and the seals would be swimming quite a way out if they were there at all. I took the opportunity to step into the North Sea for the first time in my life and as the cool waters washed over my tired feet I felt the disappointment leave my mind. There are just some things you can’t control. I spent a while watching the sunlight reflect on the wet sand and wandered back to the car. Feet numb I snuggled into my seat and directed Mr W to the next stop. 

Now, in the most recent of years have seen some waterfalls and now I have seen Big Burns Falls. The falls are ferocious and crash down between two huge rock walls and make a dramatic display at the end of the wooden walkway which juts out over the plunge pool. Are they impressive? Absolutely. Was it the best part of the walk? No. On our way to Wick from Inverness we stopped by Big Burns Falls because I am in love with waterfalls. If you follow the postcode of KW10 6RS and turn left immediately after the Golspie Inn you will find a small free car park. The walk in total takes approximately 1 hour 15 minutes. I advise you to allocate at least 90 minutes. The walk itself is reasonably easy with some semi-steep walkways, uneven steps and muddy paths. The humidity on a sunny day is quite remarkable. But honestly, I am obsessed with one section of this walk. 

About two thirds of the way into the route there is a wooden bridge across the river which presents you with an absolutely magical spectacle. There is an entire wall of vibrant mosses with hundreds of individual trickles and droplets playing chase through and over them. This wall of water is absolutely mesmerising. I stood for a very long time before and beneath this natural masterpiece and although soaked after the light shower I would have stayed all day. Never before have I experienced something so magical and beautiful in my life. I felt that should I wish for it, a droplet could land upon me and make my dreams come true. 

And just there is where I will leave you with our story from today. Come back tomorrow, won’t you?

NC500 Day 4 – Itinerary
Highlight four of the NC500 – My husband, the rally driver!

NC500 Day 3 – Reelig Glen, Chanonry Point and Rogie Falls

Miles: 66. Wildlife: seals, salmon and cormorants. Camper Vans: 9. Steps: 12043.

Cost of pre-bought food: £7.50 approximately

Extra costs: nil

7 and ¾ hours! That’s how much sleep I had last night. A-ma-zing! This quirky hotel is dark and silent. And I was ever so slightly knackered.

We didn’t need to leave the hotel until 8:30am and boy did we make the most of the extra time. Even though we were awake at 6:15, we lounged around for a good while and pondered the day ahead.



We had a breakfast of porridge, banana and seeds with a proper mank cup of coffee. Down the drain it went.

The first stop of the day was a short drive away and arriving at 9am meant we were only one of two cars there. Reelig Glen Tall Trees trail takes approximately one hour if you don’t take any photo breaks. And we took a rather lengthy pitstop when out of the trees bounced a very happy puppy. Yes, you guessed it, gone was my concentration and even any pain I still had in my back. Down to my knees on the muddy floor I went and up at me did this special little guy jump. Oh my gosh the puppy love. And his very big feet! His owners soon followed and we stood chatting for quite some time about photography and travelling the UK. Puppy Mungo kept running off to explore but was so good at coming back when either Alison or Paul called.

The glen itself was full of lush green ferns and autumn colours underfoot. The small river calmly passed by with the occasional babbling noise over rocks and twigs. Above the tree canopy the run had risen and the sky showed hints of blue. Although wet and steep in places the visit was made by the discovery of a very old stone bridge which left to the woodland has grown wild itself. Ferns and grasses have welcomed the stone back to the forest floor by laying their carpet upon it.



Happy to have made the short trip we refueled with a breakfast bar courtesy of our food store in the car and set off for our next port of call.

Chanonry point has long been one of the big draws for me on this trip. With regular sightings of dolphins I knew I needed to check it out. On arrival I was pleasantly surprised at the number of car park spaces and all the benches and seats from which you could gaze out to the water. Over time the chunky wooden table tops have weather to such a degree that they have started to curve out of shape. I was reminded how extreme the weather can get in Scotland and was glad of the fairly mild weather we have so far experienced.

With binoculars in hand we sat in quiet patience watching the calm waters of the Moray Firth. The odd cormorant kept diving for his lunch as we kept out vigil. With no dolphin in sight I scoured the waters for movement. And there it was. A rounder shape than expected but something was there. A seal. Not too far from the water’s edge. Happily swimming along. Unreal. For the next hour or so we kept a eager eye out for more movement and although we didn’t see any dolphins we saw at least six more seals bobbing up and diving back under. The whole scene was so peaceful.


In front of me I had the Queen’s funeral on my phone and I am so glad to say I could pay my respects by tuning in. It is not often you can see history literally written before your eyes and as the sun made its way across the sky chasing away the clouds and dancing its light on the waters before me I was reminded to take every opportunity to make your life great. I feel very privileged to be able to travel the way I do and make these memories. Life is too short. We spent longer than intended at Chanonry point. We used our travel kettle to make some tea, had a spot of lunch and continued our glancing up at the Moray Firth to catch a glimpse of wildlife. The waters current there is what brings such a variety of life to its depths and from our seats we could see the different textures of water on the surface. It was simply beautiful.



After slurping our tea, we left for Fairy Glen Falls. It is a very short drive from Chanonry point and even though the free car park was exceptionally full we were able to find space in the Rosemarkie community car park. Which as well as being free has toilets too. Winner!

The walk to Fairy Glen Falls is pretty enough but having experienced quite a few lush green woodlands and their waterfalls I feel we have been extremely spoiled in the past. As pretty as this place is and a wonderful spot to while away an hour I’m unsure it has the wow factor.



Now, Rogie Falls on the other hand…

The falls sit a very short way from the car park and even though it has some steep sections I have taken the approach to speed up to lessen the impact on my back and it definitely made a difference. The falls themselves are enormous. Not too tall, but wide and vast in stature. If I hadn’t known any better I would have thought I’d been transported to Canada. The ferocity of the water was mind boggling as it crashed over the scattered boulders in the gorge. Here you will find a suspension bridge that puts you front and centre to the power of this monster!



We took the Salmon Trail from the car park and you might be wondering why it is named so. Well if you are visiting between August and October, you may well find out. From the pools beneath the thundering falls came the wriggling bodies of salmon trying to make their way upstream. At first I whooped with complete glee at their appearance. I could not help myself. It was like nothing I have ever seen before and I was sure I could hear David Attenborough in my head marveling at the scene unfolding.

The salmon, truth be told, had no chance of reaching the top of the falls but they gave it a bloody good go. There is another smaller route nearby, a man-made salmon ‘ladder’ and we also saw some making the journey up that way. It was a spectacle I will not forget for a very long time. Absolutely fascinating.



After realising we had been there for over half an hour just waiting for another fish to attempt the vault we tore our eyes away from the water to drive back to our accommodation. At the top viewpoint we took one final glimpse and cheered at the last salmon as it made the biggest leap yet.

What a day. Seals, a puppy and salmon. Oh my!


Cost of pre-bought food: £8.05 approximately, all meals
Extra costs: Nothing

Title photo by Dave Watson
Please check out his work on https://www.instagram.com/davewatson_uk/ or at https://davewatson1980.picfair.com

NC500 Day 3 – Itinerary
Highlight three of the NC500 – The journey upstream








NC500 Day 2 – Bruar, Loch Ness and Plodda Falls

Miles: 205. Wildlife: some pretty birds. Camper Vans: 21. Steps: 13026.

Cost of pre-bought food: £8.30 approximately. Extra costs: Two magnets £8.

So where do I start?

Let’s start with the bad, for those wondering, my back issue got progressively worse over night and after a particularly bad start Mr W and I both started wondering if this trip was going to end prematurely. The pain was unreal, we had to keep stopping before our first two visits just so I could try and walk it off. I have felt extremely guilty for two days now about how I am ruining the trip and how rapidly it was going down the drain. The tears have fallen so freely down my cheeks it is embarrassing. Mr W on the other hand has been very supportive and at a real loss at what to do for the best. And then he came up with a solution. 

Join us on our second day. 

We had a cheap breakfast of porridge with some seeds and banana chips which set us up for the busy day ahead. Usually I’m not a fan but it was actually tasty. Something about saving money flares up the ol’ appetite. Ha!

Our first very brief stop was at the Old Pack Horse Bridge in Carrbridge. The sun was completely shrouded in heavy clouds and there was a very fine mist hanging in the air. We both dragged my arse out of the car and walked the 200 yards from the free car park to the outstanding piece of history. Standing there after I took the absolutely necessary photos I marvelled at how such a masterpiece is even possible. The whole bridge is circular in its shape and made of rough stone. It is now closed to the public and with good reason. I got the heebie jeebies just looking at it. 

As we hobbled my arse back to the car it was now very clear that the sunshine from Edinburgh was not going to reach us up in the Cairngorms. Woolly hats were thrown on and we thanked them for their presence. On our journey through the mountain roads towards our next stop we drove through Aviemore and should we return I would love to stop here for a wander. It was absolutely stunning. Mr W said it reminded him of a skiing village and I told him that people did indeed come here to ski. There is even a funicular, which at my last look was still closed. Pretty walkways framed the many expensive clothing shops and flower baskets were sprinkled around everywhere. Beautiful. Truly.

The next stop was the Falls of Bruar. It’s free and easy parking in the grounds of the House of Bruar and rumour has it they have the poshest toilets in the highlands. I can neither confirm or deny this as one did pee in the bushes whilst on the trail. Sorry bout that. Now this walk should take 1 hour by the guide on arrival. But we took slightly longer as we took photos and plenty of breaks to rest. The walk is pretty enough, but the real reason to come here is the Falls. The initial spectacle you find is on the lower bridge and it is fascinating how it frames the water and surrounding vegetation. It reminds me of something from Lord of the Rings.

We chose to cross the bridge and approach the top bridge from the right hand side. The ascent is steep with loose shingle and even though coming down on the left hand side is still fraught with loose stones, I found there were large rocks and the occasional staircase to help the bambi-footed amongst us. Either way the bridge at the very top of the circular walk is an architectural marvel and even though you don’t get as good a view of the actual bridge from the walkways, looking down into the gorge is awe inspiring. Well worth the walk!

After we got back to the car, it became very apparent at how much these hikes were troubling my bastard of a back. So Mr W fashioned a laying down arrangement in the car and the joy on my face with the feeling of utter comfort shone out brighter than the missing sun. For the first time in weeks my back felt normal, ish. I’d say the pain went from 7/10 to  1/10. 

To keep on schedule, we drove straight up to Inverness and then onto Loch Ness rather than through Fort Augustus. With new gusto and spring in my step we ventured on a boat cruise to look for the legendary Nessie. I am most disappointed to say that he/she/they did NOT show their face and I am sure should it have been a sunnier day they may have popped up and waved hello. Would I do the boat tour again? No. Is it a rite of passage when in Inverness, absolutely. The loch itself holds more water than all the other lakes in the UK combined. I mean…!!

With the mist rolling over the hills and the rain setting in, we threw caution to the wind and zigzagged our way down a single track road. Through tall fir trees and moss covered rocks we explored until signs confirmed we were on the right path. Parking up at another free car park (budget busting brilliant news!), we geared up for a short walk. The rain had stopped and with my returned enthusiasm for this trip we slipped back into our hiking ways. We negotiated steep stairways, stony paths and the odd root ramble to find ourselves at the foot of a rather large waterfall. Plodda falls is 46 metres high and a true beauty. It is tall enough to bring out the ‘ooo’s’ but angelically serene enough to bring out the ‘ahhh’s’ too. As the white frothy water cascades down it finds itself in stark contrast to the dark black rock behind it.

If you are up for shorter hikes with big rewards this one is definitely for you. We were on the trail for a maximum of an hour. And we took lots of breaks and photos. 

Today has been the epitome of a bad day being turned around. I believe that is because of Mr W and think everyone should have one for themselves. Just not mine. He is mine. 

2nd photo in article supplied by Dave Watson
Please check out his work on https://www.instagram.com/davewatson_uk/ or at https://davewatson1980.picfair.com

NC500 Day 2 – Itinerary
Highlight two of the NC500 – A tall observation