Highlight four of the NC500 – My husband, the rally driver!

This is my highlight from Day 4 of our recent trip to Scotland to drive the NC500 route. 

The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself. 

This particular highlight will remind you that planning for every eventuality cannot truly happen. 

2 motorbikes crashed in Broar on the A9. Not only did they crash badly enough to be airlifted to the hospital but they crashed on the small bridge crossing the river Brora which runs off of Brora Loch to the west. This slicing piece of water divides Scotland in the east all the way to Lairg. It’s not something you need to know until the bridge is blocked. And here it was, blocked. I have tried since then to find out how the rivers are without any further news found. At our accommodation in Wick we met several people who were caught in the aftermath of traffic and we found out the two involved were American tourists. It is certainly not something you want to happen on your travels and I hope they are okay. 

Man and woman air-lifted to hospital after motorbike crash on A9 in Highlands

Now I mentioned our accommodation in Wick. From Brora it is an hour’s drive via a small stop off at the Whaligoe steps. We were making good time on our Day four itinerary (see link below) and were due to arrive early at our accommodation for 5pm (ish). And yet our detour from the crash was over 115 miles long! We left Broar at 3:45pm and arrived at our accommodation at 7:10pm. Now if you are a regular reader you may take an educated guess at my mood at the very beginning of this little problem. 

This meant missing the Whaligoe Steps, one of the big highlights of the NC500, and potentially missing our check in at our accommodation. A night in the car was not something I was looking forward to. As we took the Sat Nav’s advice, we came upon a ford. No not a car, a river ford, with very visible wheel tracks leading into the water. Now Mr W isn’t particularly precious over his car, but upon my closer inspection from the suspension footbridge, I couldn’t see the riverbed and just could not risk it. Not only did we have Marv the drone in the car but my laptop, a lot of camera equipment, luggage and food. Oh and ourselves! We retrace the road back to the A9 and Mr W set about finding a new route to Wick. The Sat Nav presented us with a 3 hour detour and honestly my heart sank. A quick look at the news told us that the road had been closed since 11am and we made up our minds to take the detour. 

We headed west from the A9 towards Lairg and joined the A836. Quickly the road became single track and the most difficult we’d faced under the tyres so far. Most of it was loose shingle and even though we had started the NC500 on that same morning, we had been blessed with normal roads so far. This introduction, although early, most definitely gave us an insight into what was ahead in our trip. The road itself cut through flat heathlands which were sparse albeit with the occasional swampy looking river. There was just nothing there. No cattle. No houses. Nothing. It was us and the four cars in front of us. It became clear very quickly at how the crash on the A9 was affecting the eastside of Scotland as traffic built up ahead and behind us.  

The four cars in front of us became our ‘team’ as Mr W put it. The front car set the pace and to stop any delays in having to pull over in a layby for oncoming traffic we were all in this together. Occasionally one of the ‘team’ would pull over to give themselves from the twisting turning roads and Mr W would shout out ‘come on, team’ as we sped away. Despite the dodgy roads and the fear of actually crashing I could not stop laughing at his finding joy in the moment. My husband, the rally driver, was pumped up and exhilarated from the change in circumstances. His inner comedian bounded out with every bump in the road and I could not help but grin. 

After a while with the time of arrival on the sat nav having changed dramatically and it becoming clear we would indeed make our check in time, we both started to relax. The roads became narrower, with blind bends as we turned onto the B873. On one side were the slopes of the mountains around us and on the other the road made way for steep drops the Loch Naver below. The waters were as black as night and yet as an Asda home delivery truck pulled around the corner I could not help but breathe a sigh of relief. If he was all the way out here, we would be fine. As people joined and left our team as we whizzed around the road Mr W whooped and cheered us all on our merry way. 

We saw images of Scotland that we did not see for the rest of our trip. Men dressed in waders out in the rivers fly fishing. A lonely single Inn watching the road bursting into new life. Rain clouds passing over Loch Naver deciding on whether to meet its surface. We also whipped past our accommodation for the next night and I realised that we would be tracing some of this detour again in the morning. From Bettyhill right round to Thurso we found the double track roads had returned and the car glided onto our final destination as Mr W bade goodbye to our ‘team-mates’ as they went on to fulfil their day’s plans. 

The relief was palpable as we reached our hotel and yet despite the interlude of doubt, worry and racing, I found myself in absolute awe of my husband. He had not panicked like I initially did. He took it for what it was. He took it in his stride and laughed at every challenge. 

I am grateful for him. I am grateful for having seen a much more rural piece of Scotland than we had planned to see. I am grateful we didn’t attempt the ford crossing and stayed dry in our car. 

This also means we have unfinished business in Scotland. Oh no! We shall have to return. 

NC500 Day 4: Tarbat Ness Lighthouse, Dornoch Beach and Big Burns Falls
NC500 Day 4 – Itinerary

NC500 Day 4 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series. 

I hope these have been of some help so far and thanks for returning!

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

Day 4 of our trip was heavily altered due to things out of our control. There was a big motorbike crash up in the town Brora, on a bridge no less, and it completely cut us off from reaching the Whaligoe Steps and Wick via the A9. I go into more detail about this detour in my ‘Highlight of the day’ blog which is linked below. As for the Whaligoe Steps, we sadly never reached them, but I’m sure with roads being clear you will find this itinerary well timed and suiting your explorer needs. Enjoy! 

Start out from your accommodation in the Inverness area to Tarbat Ness Lighthouse. The drive in is lovely and open and although the car park is rather small, making this your first stop of the day means you shouldn’t have any difficulties in parking. There was a car parking fee, but the machine was broken. Before you head over to the lighthouse itself, it is worth taking the short walk to the cliffs at the end of the car park. There are beautiful views of the cliffs and even a bench from which you can admire the lighthouse. Retrace your steps back to the car park and head up the lighthouse’s drive to give you a gradual introduction to the stripey building from afar. We spent over an hour here as we had a tinker with our drone, but I recommend anywhere between 20-40 minutes should you just be here to look around and stretch your legs. 

From here make your way to Dornoch, and if you’re feeling in the mood for something sweet, head to Cocoa Mountain on the high street. Don’t do what we did and sit inside, take your order to go and walk around the village. It really was beautiful and I wish we had done that instead. The shop is nice enough, the hot chocolate is okay, but the patrons had lots of dogs so it was nice to have a ‘ooo and ahhh’ over those furry friendlies. The service is rather slow which is surprising considering this is one of social media’s top highlights of the NC500. We found street parking only 3 minutes from the shops itself which is really useful. This is Scotland remember. London’s speeds are far far away. 

From here, follow the ‘what 3 words’ navigation to Dornoch Beaches car park below. We followed the Sat Nav and ended up driving through a golf course. And yes there were signs saying to look out for flying balls! It is said you can see seals at this beach and although we didn’t, we spent an enjoyable hour or so walking in the shallow surf and sand. You can swim here so add time to your schedule and take a load off. You have officially started the NC500! Enjoy it all. 

From here we took the journey to Big Burns Falls, which has the tiniest car park signpost you are likely to see. Again, the instructions are below for you, if you notice the Golspie Inn on the approach, turn left immediately after and you are there. Another small car park awaits you, but it is a relatively quiet place and it is not to be missed. Read my blog (linked below) on Day 4 to find out why! The walk itself is really quite humid as you find yourself between wet rocks and foliage for a majority of the time. This isn’t unpleasant and you will see for yourself why. I am so excited for you to do this walk in particular. 

From here the plan, I hope for you, works out. Drive up the east coast towards the Whaligoe Steps. There are 365 steps here, so take your time especially on the way up and remember you set your pace. I have put in the nearest navigation instructions I can find. It is likely to be busy but the car park looks big enough for short term visitors. I wish I could give more advice. But life happens in mysterious ways and we could not make it on this trip. 

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/10/nc500-day-3-itinerary/

NC500 Day 4: Tarbat Ness Lighthouse, Dornoch Beach and Big Burns Falls
Highlight four of the NC500 – My husband, the rally driver!

Highlight three of the NC500 – The journey upstream

This is my highlight from Day 3 of our recent trip to Scotland to drive the NC500 route.

The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself.

I will never forget sitting at Chanonry Point with my binoculars in hand awaiting a dolphin sighting while I occasionally glanced at the live stream of our Queens funeral on my phone. Having paid my respects at Balmoral a day or two before, I felt especially blessed again to be joining the millions around the UK and indeed the globe who had tuned in to say their final goodbyes. Having not known what the signal would be like on our route it was a guessing game at what would happen. And yet there we were participating. I don’t think it would feel right to call it the highlight of the day. However the word privilege seems apt and I include it here to remind myself that in no way did I think I would be sat on a Scottish beach watching our Queen’s funeral on my phone and yet it is a part of my story now. It’s unusual. It’s definitely one of a kind. And yet it felt peaceful and personal. In a way, it’s how a funeral should be. Each ‘attendee’ finds their own moment to remember and reflect.

Later that day we arrived at Rogie Falls. It is a vast series of waterfalls on the Black Water, a river in Ross-Shire. You are given the ultimate front and centre view from the suspension bridge that crosses the wide gorge.

The bridge jumps up and down as people walk across it and I felt the weight go into my legs to steady myself. I remember thinking that my legs would feel the pain of this later. It is similar to when you keep yourself upright on a boat that is rolling over the incoming waves. Your muscles tense and it is as if your brainpower is reserved just for that very need.

I am now only realising how patient I can be. That is when I know a reward is quite likely. At Chanonry Point, there have been many, many dolphin sightings. It is famous for them. And yet on our visit there were none. It is a shame but nature requires patience and understanding. Sometimes these things differ in their quantities based on focus and time allowances. If the opportunity arises again for us to be back in that part of the world maybe I will allow us more time to sit and watch the waters for those beautiful fins. Who knows.

At Rogie Falls however my patience was rewarded tenfold. In the space of 90 minutes we saw over 10 salmon leaping out of the bubbling water trying to head upstream. Each fish that appeared was met with gasps, smiles, whoops and ‘ooo’s’. It was sheer fascination that kept my legs fixed into place while my eyes darted between each cascading column of water to spy the next attempt-ee. The very fact is, the distance from the surface of the pools the salmon were jumping from to the top of the waterfall was at least 10 foot. Mr W and I, and everyone around us, knew that those little salmon would never make it to the waters above and yet there they were. Jumping, leaping, swimming as fast as they could just to try, try, try again!

Just below the suspension (literal in two ways) bridge there is something called a man-made salmon ladder. It is a series of very short waterfalls that curve their way upstream in a much easier and salmon friendlier way. Several people next to me were watching fish attempt this way up stream with much better success. And yet my eyes were transfixed on the harder route. I couldn’t help but think about their motives and why they weren’t using the ladder. Did they not know? How long would they keep trying? How does the instinct to do this just ‘happen’?

It makes me think about their journey and how fraught with danger and stress it is. Yet they continue on. It’s something to take on board, don’t you think?

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/10/nc500-day-3-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/09/19/nc500-day-three-reelig-glen-chanonry-point-and-rogie-falls/

NC500 Day 3 – Itinerary

Hello and welcome back to the Scotland itinerary series. 

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

Day 3 of our trip was altered slightly due to the reshuffle of our Loch Ness Cruise due to the Queens funeral. Instead of tucking something else into the itinerary we gave ourselves more time in each place and set pace for a leisurely day. It meant we got back to our accommodation in Strathpeffer much earlier than intended and definitely helped ease us into this mammoth trip. This little day can be as long or short as you want it to be. 

Reelig Glen is a quaint little space with easy walks to boot. We did the tall trees trail which takes you close to the river which ultimately is where our interests lie. It is a simple root with unbroken ground and slightly steep hills. Going in the morning means you get the place almost to yourself. When we arrived at the car park there was only one other vehicle to keep us company and it was the same story as when we left. There is no charge for the car park and there is a board with the two trails mapped out clearly upon it. 

As we soon noticed on our journey through Scotland, online advice often points you to an address simply by postcode. This obviously covers a large area of space and with instructions such as ‘halfways between this town and that’ can often be quite foreign to a city dweller. As in previous itineraries I am including the ‘what three words’ pinpoints to as many car parks and locations on this trip as possible. I downloaded the app before heading to Scotland and found it very user friendly. We found this app extremely valuable throughout this trip. You do not need to have a phone signal to use this method however we found we had great signals wherever we went. We were incredibly lucky in terms of signal. If mine would cut out Mr W’s was fine and vice versa. In light of this I would look into how you can use what three words app offline and then you are absolutely covered. 

Back to the itinerary. 

Head to Chanonry point if you have plenty of patience. This is a fantastic place to sit and look out. The waters here are popular for dolphin sightings and proof enough are the carvings of these beautiful creatures in the benches dotted along the beach. There is ample parking which costs £1 an hour. This is a popular place with Rv’s and I suggest you get there before midday to beat the amount of people who come here to sit, eat and watch the waters. There are bins on site too. Open to the water this site is unprotected from the wind, evident by the benches bending ever so slightly out of shape. Take a flask, sandwich and a pair of binoculars. We spent two hours here and although we didn’t see any dolphins we did see several sightings of seals which was just fantastic. If you want to make the chances of sightings more favourable, you can visit when the tides turn. There is advice that suggests the dolphins will chase the plentiful fish on a rising tide. Which is usually 1 hour after low tide. 

A very nearby visit will get your cold limbs working again with a short walk to Fairy Glen Falls in Rosemarkie. Should you find the ‘official’ car park full, don’t be deterred, there is another car park right next to the community run toilets. Both car parks at the time of our visit were free. The toilets too are free, however as they are community run, a donation is as you can imagine quite welcome. The walk to the waterfalls themselves is relatively easy and you return on the same path as you enter by. This is not one of the most remarkable waterfalls on this trip but undoubtedly has its merits and a beautiful walk on which to stretch your legs. It was particularly busy as we left as there is a caravan park between here and Chanonry Point. There were families heading to the falls on a leisurely afternoon stroll. I would say that children would have little trouble navigating this route, although those with pushchairs may struggle. 

Now, if you look at this day as a build up to the big kahuna. Rogie falls is the ONE that you’ll have been waiting for. The car park jumps out of nowhere so use the what three words app if you can. It is a big and free car park and again has public toilets. A godsend on long days like these!

The walk is very short but has some steep up and down sections. But believe me it is entirely worth it. There is a small stone wall with display boards as you reach the ledge of the gorge. You can pause here to see down into the aggressive waters below. The action however can only truly be enjoyed from the suspension bridge that crosses the river just a short walk away. I advise a phone lanyard so you do not drop your phone. Because you will need it. This place is absolutely stunning. Mr W and I both said that if we didn’t know any better we would have thought we were in Canada. To find out about our experience check out the links below. My advice is, wrap up warm, keep that camera/phone battery exceptionally high and give yourself more time than you think you need. On my last video my phone battery ran out and THAT is the only reason we left when we did. There are two trails here and naturally we took the shortest one as this is the reason we came to Rogie Falls in the first place. To see the spectacle here, it is advised to come in August and September. Please try to. It was amazing. I practically skipped back to the car in delight. 

There are no benches here but I found I could sit up on the stone ledge just to the side of the river and sat for as long as I could put up with the cold on my legs. Otherwise patience and grit will serve you wonders at this place. Focus on the very top pools of the waterfalls and try not to blink. 

Return to your accommodation for your second night in the area. Tomorrow. The true beginning of the NC500 begins!

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/08/nc500-day-2-itinerary/
https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/11/highlight-three-of-the-nc500-the-journey-upstream/

NC500 Day 3 – Reelig Glen, Chanonry Point and Rogie Falls

Highlight two of the NC500 – A tall observation

This is my highlight from Day 2 of our recent trip to Scotland to drive the NC500 route. 

The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself. 

Plodda falls is 46 metres high. It plunges over the rockface fast and loud. From below you are ‘misted’ with its waters on a breezy day as you gaze around at the wondrous greenery it has breathed into life. The space here is dominated by rock. Everywhere you look there are jagged boulders, walls of stone and sharp boulders in the river bed. The tall Douglas firs are old. So old their roots are over a foot thick in places and have woven their way around rocks that have long ditched the soil that once encased them. This is an old part of the Glen Affric National Park. There are wooden railings to keep you from plunging down the steep banks of the gorge but other than that this place feels unkempt and stolen back by nature itself. 

Above the waterfalls on the fir-needle strewn trail you can hear the mammoth cascade of water and yet you can’t see it. Ahead of you there is a different kind of path. It is structured and although wooden it is man-made and almost out of place. As you tread the boards of this pathway, you hear the water moving below you as the wood rises up around you, fencing you in and guiding you onwards. At the end of this amazing observation deck you find yourself hovering over the very falls themselves. The water is white with its fast movement. It rains down, unknowing of its future path. The river falls away below you and you can feel the fear of perhaps crashing down with them. 

I, for one, am not bothered by such things. Mr W on the other hand is not a fan. He can never really decide whether it’s the fear of heights, falling or something else entirely that bothers him. If he is on a hill or a steep gorge he is fine. There is something about movement while at a height that just ‘gets’ to him. He hated the London Eye when we went on it back in the day and yet that is the slowest moving thing on this planet. Maybe it is a case of looking at movement below from a great height that puts the whole situation into perspective?

Either way, I am fine with it. He is not. And I find it absolutely hysterical. The barrier of the observation deck is at least 4 feet high and it would be insanely hard to fall from it. I reckon that was the plan eh? And yet leaning over, head, neck, shoulder, arms and upper torso is thrilling. It is like you are on the bow of a great ship plunging over Niagara Falls. Yet, this is significantly smaller than Niagara, but then you are not a ship. You are a 5ft5” woman who is cackling in sheer delight at the height and noise you are experiencing. There is sunlight streaming from the afternoon sky and your body is suspended on land and in the air. 

The noise drowns out every other thought in your body. You are in Scotland. You are inside the water. You are nowhere and everywhere. You are taking the leap over the falls. Whooshing down into the pools below. You are above. You are dry. You are alive. 

The trees hear you gasp and laugh. Your husband is beside you as you experience nature’s beautiful self. It is a magical moment. It is as funny as it is not. No one else will understand and that is okay. You snap a very quick photo as he grips the barrier with a white knuckled fist. The sun is in your eyes. There is laughter and love. 

It is these moments that remind you why travelling is so important to you. 

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/08/nc500-day-2-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/09/18/nc500-day-2-bruar-loch-ness-and-plodda-falls/

NC500 Day 2 – Itinerary

Hello and welcome back to the Scotland itinerary series. 

The most I can hope from these blogs is to help you have the most fantastic experience in Scotland and on the NC500 route. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

As you may have seen from the itinerary from Day 1 (link below) we started our trip on the eastside of Scotland which is quite unusual as it approaches the NC500 in an anticlockwise manner. Most tips tell you to combat the route in a clockwise form, however as we had plans in Edinburgh and we had plans to finish in the Lake District this worked better for us. Mr W had also heard a tidbit about travelling anti-clockwise too. In all honesty, everything I heard prior to our trip suggested that the east coast of Scotland is vastly different to the western side. In a way I would agree, they are very different. However, in the opinions I read it became quite obvious that people favour the west coast of the Highlands which is a shame. The east has so much to offer and I found it was just the best build up to the rest of the journey. It gradually envelops you into the route. The villages are pretty and the coastline is easier to navigate on foot. 

So without much ado, let’s continue with the itinerary. This was one of the easiest days in terms of navigation.

Day 2 was such a beautiful day filled with wonderful activities to help you stretch those legs as you introduce yourself to Scotland.

We ate in our hotel room in order to save time and money. We used our pre-packed oats and our hotel had a kettle so this really helped us. 

Start your day as early as sunlight allows. The Old PackHorse Bridge needs at least the beginnings of sunlight to fully appreciate. We made sure to get here mega early so we were alone and there was just one other vehicle in the car park when we arrived. The walk to the bridge is along the main road in the town of Carrbridge. It was very easy and yet packed a punch for those early morning thrills. To get the best view of the bridge itself there is a wooden staircase just a few metres off of the current bridge. Please take care using these stairs, they can be extremely wet. 

From here we journeyed to the House of Bruar which stands in front of the pathway to the Falls of Bruar. Parking is free. There is much advice online to use the toilets in this establishment as they are rumoured to be the ‘poshest’ toilets in the highlands. I cannot confirm or deny this fact as we were quick to leave after spending a lot more time on the hike than we originally planned. There is advice online about the walk itself. It says to turn left as you approach the first bridge on this walk. One thing I can advise to the unsteady on their feet is to cross the bridge and take the walk up the hill on the right hand side of the river. It is a steep walk which I for one could only tackle uphill. If I were presented with that steepness on the descent I would not have been happy. We did the loop walk anticlockwise in its entirety and still got to see everything. The descent on the left hand side had long stretches of large rocks embedded in dryer earth to walk down. This is something for you to consider as you approach this walk. 

Something I do wish we had done is visit the House of Bruar which is a huge complex of shops with clothing, trinkets and even plants. It looked so decadent and by the time we had returned from the falls it was really filling up. Maybe add an hour onto your day and take time to look around? I also spied a coffee area which would be a welcome treat after your walk!

Having spent so long at the falls, we head straight to Clansman Harbour, Inverness for our Loch Ness Cruise. Our cruise time was at 2pm. There are other times for the cruises so you could potentially get a cruise at 4pm if this suits you better. We went with the 50 minute Clansman cruise which was perfect for us. If we had had the time, we would have approached Inverness via Fort Augustus to give us the perfect introduction to Loch Ness. By doing this you will drive from Fort Augustus up the left hand side of the Loch to Canmans Harbour and be able to peek out at the water as you go. 

Not usually one to jump on the typical tourism bandwagon the cruise was a welcome relief from walking and driving. When you think of Inverness and Scotland in particular you, or maybe just I, always think of Nessie. So I just had to include this on our trip. It was relatively cheap and, as expected, packed with tourists. We had no trouble getting a seat. The only trouble was the grey sky and the condensation on the inside of the windows. It meant we didn’t see much of the Loch itself and as it is a looping cruise, you see the same bits out and inwards. Would I do it again? No. Am I glad we did it? Yes. It feels like a rite of passage for sure. I have linked the website below for you to book your tickets. The car park for the harbour is located across the road so don’t let the location fool you. Try and arrive ahead of your journey time as there aren’t many car park spaces and there are lots of people arriving by coach. There is a walkway that gives you safe passage under the busy road to the harbour. This is conveniently located next to a large ‘Nessie’ statue at the far end of the car park. A large gift shop can also be found at this location. 

Be aware, there are not very many gift shops on the route and therefore you should buy any desired trinkets when you see them. Prices remained similar in the few shops I did see. For example, magnets were generally £2.50-3.99.

After our brief cruise we made our way to Plodda Falls, which was well signposted on the approach. There is a charge for the car park which is very reasonable. We found there were quite a few midges here so grab those midge nets or deet sprays. We didn’t fare too badly on this entire trip but it is always good to be prepared. The waterfall here is exceptional and the observation deck is NOT to be missed. There are two trails you can try. The white marked Plodda Falls Trail and the green marked Tweedmouth Trail. Somehow we started on the white trail and finished on the green trail. I know I know, we did not start very strong on our trial following. But there are no complaints about doing it this way. If you have time constraints, definitely do the first trail and if unsure, just retrace your steps. 

A perfect end to a fantastic day! We stayed in Strathpeffer and booked in for two nights for the next few days’ activities. (Review to be linked below soon!)

Oh and your car will be absolutely filthy from the dusty, single track road to Plodda. Sorry about that! The Scottish rain will soon sort it right out.

https://www.jacobite.co.uk/tours

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2022/10/09/highlight-two-of-the-nc500-a-tall-observation/

NC500 Day 2 – Bruar, Loch Ness and Plodda Falls
NC500 Day 1 – Itinerary

Highlight one of the NC500 – A royal goodbye

If you’ve been reading along for the last 6 months or so you’ll be very well aware of our trip to Scotland and the NC500. Now that we are back, and after sharing my daily thoughts on our day to day activities, I am editing my original itineraries (if needed) and sharing the logistics of this trip with you in a special Scotland series of blogs. In addition to those I will be doing a highlight series too. Which means I will be picking out one particular point or experience of each of the days spent in Scotland that really stood out for me on this trip. 

This is my highlight from Day 1. 

I wish, with all of my travellers heart and soul I could say that the Cairngorms with their cacophony of colours and textures had won me over on this day. Winding rivers dominate the landscape and I am so fond of how Scottish rivers bubble through the valleys despite being on a rather flat piece of land. As you drive through the snow roads you have such a feeling of remoteness and being alone that it somehow introduces you for the first time to the Highlands and what the NC500 route will entail. Like I said, I wish this was the highlight, but it just wasn’t. 

Just two days before the Queen’s funeral in London, we arrived at Balmoral. Unsure of whether our plan to hike to Prince Albert’s Cairn would proceed it was always our intention to try. It was very obvious on our arrival at the car park that the hikes surrounding the Balmoral Estate were all closed and yet my usual disappointed feeling was lost in the fray of grief and arriving cars. 

The area was silent except for the wind rushing through the trees and the ferocious River Dee below a beautiful green arched bridge. You felt the grief in the air, shall we say. Unbeknownst to us whether we would even get into the car park, we didn’t buy flowers, and made our way up from Edinburgh. Much of this day was unsure due to recent events. 

When the death of our Queen was announced, and with our trip so close, tensions were high in not knowing just how to grieve. When the funeral was announced we found out that we would not be at home. Of course, with modern technology you can record such events, but something just wasn’t sitting right with me. WIth such a momentous time in history it felt strange to go about our trip and not do something. It was also one of those moments in time which felt so serendipitous. Having never been north of Edinburgh before and now facing a visit to the Balmoral Estate just 9 days after our monarch’s death was utterly bizarre. It was as if it was meant to be. 

And there they were. The black gates with the gold lettering. The world’s press had been on these pavements just a few days before. She had been here just a few days before. Now there were just a handful of people with hundreds of bouquets resting quietly in place before the stone walls. The space was silent. It was as if everyone’s grief had come to rest here. And for the first time since her death my mind cleared. It was as if I had found the outlet I needed. 

I took the time to look at the thick carpet of flowers. Red roses. Purple irises. White lilies. Sunny sunflowers. Something to show love and adoration. Symbols of thanks, grief and sorrow. Cards and notes. Drawings and photos. The outpouring of love and sadness was thick in the air. It was palpable. 

One might find it strange that in a travel blog you have found yourself reading about death and grief. And yet the more time I spent at those gates, by those flowers, in silence, the more sense it made. This was my time to grieve on a personal level. Having not made it into London was hard and my physical ability and mental capacity at the time had a huge impact on my choice on whether to go. But there I was, at the scene of the biggest loss in this country’s most recent history and it was as if the itinerary I wrote all those months ago had put me exactly where I needed to be. Travel does that. It puts you right where you need to be.

Mr W wandered around the space while I took the time to reach a mental space that I felt happy with. I said goodbye to our Queen Eilzabeth with a much clearer mind and conscience. Later on in the trip we managed to pause our day’s plans and watch the funeral online. We joined the rest of the world as she made her final journey and it was unbelievably beautiful. 

However, I will never forget the time I stood before her Scottish home and said my own personal goodbyes. Just us. 

Our constant. Our Queen.
NC500 Day 1- Edinburgh and the Cairngorms.
NC500 Day 1 – Itinerary

NC500 Day 1 – Itinerary

Hello, we are back! What a trip and experience and just everything unimaginable. I almost feel the need to apologise to the UK at this point for previously thinking it had nothing to offer. Who would have thought covid restrictions and airline and airport issues would bring us so much joy in pushing us to try something new!

This is blog one of the Scotland itinerary series. Much like the Italy itineraries I shared with you, I will be posting the itineraries for this mammoth trip day by day so you can get a real feel for what this involves. I will be editing my original itinerary and including the new and improved version for you below. These blogs try to give you the much needed information for your trip without too many of my feelings and thoughts on each experience. Should you be needing more of a push to try these itineraries, the links to each day’s blogs will be linked below. 

So let’s start shall we…

I had hoped we would dig into our pre-bought food supplies to have a breakfast of porridge on our very first day however having to be in the car at 5am did not warrant getting up at 4am for a more refined meal. I salute the previous buying of sausages rolls and fruit for the journey up from Essex the day before as we tucked into a much simpler breakfast. 

Having missed our opportunity to do Arthurs Seat in 2021, we drove to Edinburgh to complete our ticklist for the city. We planned to park in our trusty free parking spot in Kirkwood place, however despite arriving early we found this completely rammed. This may be due to it being a neighbourhood area and everyone still being in bed! However with quick googling skills I found a car park literally at the start of the walk for Arthurs Seat and also free on weekends. Highly recommended!

As mentioned in my Day One blog (link below) you will see that we stupidly took the wrong route. As a starting hike for this trip, we intended to keep it nice and simple and therefore wanted to take the blue route to the top of Arthur’s Seat. And yet you will not find any signposts for the different routes. The only advice I can give you is to take the grass route when everyone veers right. As you walk up the tarmacked path with the sloping hills of Arthurs seat on your right and the road on your left, you will climb a sloping hill that turns to the right. Above you on the left are some ruins with a mud path leading up to it should you like a quick look. Returning to the same path, this is where I found the path took a definite right hand turn and the shingle underfoot became larger and looser. This is where a sign would be posted for the blue/red routes. The blue route follows the pronounced grassy hill on the left and the red route is on the right. At our climbing time everyone was on the right and we sheep followed it unknowingly. We kept an eye on the grassy path as we climbed the rocky alternative and it was very clear from above which route would have been more favourable. By taking the blue/grassy route you make a slower, more gradual ascent up ol’ Arthur and definitely smoother. You will slowly curve your way up the grassy sides of the volcano before rejoining the red route for the last very short scramble. Whether you take the blue or red route, the last scramble is the same. There is no clear path to follow as it is literally a hands and feet climb across an expanse of jagged but small rocks. For ease I would return via the blue route, whether you used the red for the ascent or not. It is less busy and has better views of the top as you return to your car. 

Be aware once at the top there are no plateaus as such so put all your weight in your legs for those all important selfies and be prepared for the wind! This is a great little introduction to the hikes of Scotland.

Continue your day up the eastside of Scotland to the Cairngorms National Park. This is not a route to rush. We crossed the Queensferry Bridge which was just fabulous and please do take time when driving through Edinburgh to look at all the fantastic architecture. There are also beautiful tree-lined avenues just outside the city itself and I-spied a gorgeous park called South Inch Park that I could easily have spent an hour or so with a coffee.   

As you enter the Cairngorms the scenery dramatically changes and I feel it is a perfect start to your wilds of Scotland trip. The great thing is there are many many stopping points and they invite you to stop and drink it all in. I advise you to use as many of these as possible. During our time, there were lots of motorbike riders and sports car drivers on the snow roads and we wanted to be slow to take it all in. The laybys help you avoid the rushing for sure. 

Our aim was to drive through the National Park to Grantown on Spey for our hotel (link to review will be added below very soon) and stop at the Balmoral Estates for the walk to the Prince Albert Cairn. Unfortunately due to the Queen’s passing on 8th September the estates’ walks were closed. We did however check out the car park and found it much bigger than I initially understood it to be and it would be a shame if you miss this off of your itinerary. Therefore I have included the information for you below! Go for it! One day we will get there. 

Be very aware you are on the grounds of the royal house of Balmoral and flying a drone at the Cairn will be prohibited. 

I advise you to stay at Grantown on Spey as there are a lot of food options and it is the perfect starting point for Day 2 of my itinerary! We had some fabulous and much needed hot food to finish off the day. Recommendations coming soon. 

A lot of this day is dedicated to driving. The first slog of driving is uneventful but you make up for this with the stop and start nature of the second half. It is definitely a great introduction to what lies ahead!

NC500 Day 1- Edinburgh and the Cairngorms.
Highlight one of the NC500 – A royal goodbye

Scotland, where do I start…

Where do I start…

I sort of disappeared didn’t I? An avid reader actually thought something had happened to us. But I promise day 13, 14, and 15 of our trip ended quite simply and without too much to talk about. It was also our wedding anniversary on day 13 and with a few disappointments in our plans for the day it was easier to focus on us and enjoy the day for what it was than what it could have been. 

Over the coming weeks, I’ll be re-visiting our trip over on my instagram and facebook pages with all the photos I have that I think are worthy of sharing, there are over 2000, and I’ll be updating all the daily itineraries so you can benefit from our learnings. There will also be a mini Lake District blog coming soon and I’ll be discussing just how successful being ultra prepared was. 

So there is a lot in the pipeline and I honestly can’t believe it has been a week since I’ve written. In a way it’s been nice to have a break, as you can imagine writing while travelling did not leave me with a lot of time to relax. It was often the case that the spare hour or so that I had in the evenings, between accommodation arrival and bedtime was purely given over to recapping the day. At times, it felt like a slog, one evening in particular I was puking up my dinner (suspected sun stroke, haha yep, in Scotland) and then back to writing ten minutes later. But most of the time, it really did help me wind down and process the day in a really special way. 

Moving forward I’ll be able to pick apart the days further which will bring the memories flooding back. Which I am really looking forward to. Scotland really was a picture perfect experience. Every twist and turn of the roads gave new light and insight into the landscape and not once did we hesitate to turn round to peek at another roadside waterfall or river. It is safe to say we are addicted!

Down to restraints of weather, time and sometimes physical ability (hi sciatica, you utter tw*t) we actually only managed about 90% of our visits which isn’t something to sniff at but I am rather hard on myself for not achieving the desired 100%!

We also found that a lot of the businesses we were aiming to visit had changed their timings at the last minute or were closed due to unforeseen circumstances. As you can imagine, having missed some bits of this trip means I have already started building a ‘Scotland 2.0’ itinerary and it is already incorporating places we want to go to again. I’ll be discussing these in my ‘Highlights of Scotland’ blogs (also coming soon). So strap on those reading glasses, for it is going to be a whirlwind, much like the windy conditions we are experiencing in Essex today, for the Scotland information coming your way is going to be full on! All in all, I estimate there will be approximately 25 blogs to entice you to try this trip for yourself. 

This month is proving to be really quite busy for Mr W and I. We have a birthday party for a rather special lady to plan, a trip up north to negotiate, a few days out in London, work trips and friends to catch up with. November too, is getting rather full! In the coming weeks we will be setting our travel plans for 2023 (crazy!) and the logistics that they will present.  

Something I have realised in the last three weeks is just how special travel is to me. It is a given that I find travel special having started this blog and taking you through my history and present relationships with worldwide travel. And yet, this trip has ultimately taught me so much about myself and how my (and Mr W’s) tastes have changed. Scotland has opened my eyes to what travel can be moving forward and how you travel ultimately being such an important factor of the trip. So until I really get stuck in to the future blogs, I wanted to say a huge thankyou to Mr W for all the support on this trip, it was NOT easy, sciatica is no laughing matter and on day 2 I was extremely close to coming home, all the driving and all the hysterical laughs that he pulled out of me. It’s also prudent to point out how much trust he had in me in planning this trip. It was enormous in scale and I’m grateful we came out the otherside with more love than ever. Although I’m sure Mr W would gratefully have thrown me off a cliff at some points. 

And then, there are the thank you’s to you all. The people who continue to read about our lives and those who share and invite new people to read along. It’s given me a sense of purpose back and isn’t that just a wonderful thing!

Oh! And one final little preview, I will be reviewing all of our accommodation and giving you all some foodie tidbits. As always I will be completely honest and that means sharing the good and the bad. Once the blogs mentioned in this post have been written they will be linked down below and also on the original ‘NC500 Day XX’ Blogs too. I’ll incorporate all the pre-packed food and the packed essentials into these blogs so you can determine for yourself how worthwhile it all is.

Till then… 

NC500 Day 12 – Glencoe and the Trossachs

Miles: 168 Wildlife: 1 heron. Camper Vans: 15+. Steps: 6883.

Cost of pre-bought food: £5.90 approximately

Extra costs: Breakfast £7.80, Dinner £51

This morning started like most on this trip. Eyes peeking out through tired lids. Brain starting  recalling the itinerary for the day ahead. And busy hands packing away various bags and brushing teeth. 

Last night, as part of a pre-emptive strike, I clicked on the website for the Ben Nevis gondolas to check if they were running today. As per advice a month or so ago I was to check arrangements on the day as they do not run in bad weather. So off I went only to find out the autumn timings had been brought in and they were closed on the very day we were meant to be there. I’ll admit it, I was quite ‘miffed’. Something about Ben Nevis is quite thrilling to me and losing this opportunity had not been taken lightly. Normally I would sit up and adjust the itinerary to compensate for the loss, but I physically could not stay away. Win win for the insomniac! 

Waking to Mr W’s alarm reminded me that he didn’t know about the change in plans. He was just as disappointed as me. The consolation at large is we are already starting to plan our return and this will just be added to the list of places we need to attempt again. 

While attempting to reshuffle the day, I noticed the Glencoe walk today wasn’t igniting a fire within me and I started to question why I felt so lacklustre. Was I too tired? I passed the plan to Mr W and he said the walk looked a tad boring too. We decided to change things up a bit. 

First of all, I had the best shower of our whole trip, spent time drying my hair and then treated Mr W to a pastry at the Rain Bakery in Fort William. He had the maple and bacon swirl while I went for my usual Pain au Chocolat. They were ever so slightly warm and hands down the best pastries we have both ever had. Truth be told, I wish I’d gone back and bought another. But hey, let’s hope they don’t go down the same route as other independent businesses and are still there when we return! Mmmm. 

Setting off later than normal was quite the gift and instead of seeing the Ben Nevis range up close and personal we tried to see it from afar. We parked in the Corpach loch car park and were thrilled, well I was, to see the Jacobite train making its first trip of the day in the distance. As we parked, I jumped out of the car and RAN to meet it at the level crossing. The same excitement flowed through my body as the locomotive came closer and funnelled its stream of steam into the cold morning air. To be that close again was just amazing and as we were now without a platform it just seemed so much bigger. I remember gasping in utter delight. We stopped while it passed and watched it disappear into the hills once more. Magical. 

Remembering what we had come for, we crossed the train tracks and walked towards the edge of the Loch. Across the vast expanse of water sat the Nevis range under thick clouds. The day, it seemed, was not being kind. However, you cannot win everything on these trips and the ability to be flexible is one I wish to wholeheartedly have one day. I’m getting there. With a nod to Mr W we left to say goodbye to Fort William. 

We took the time to drive down the length of Loch Linnhe and onto the famous Glencoe region. The sheer size of the mountains on the westside of Scotland have been indescribable and the peaks here are no different. Some rise up smoothly like hills and then there are the others that are dramatic and erupt out of the earth flamboyantly and all of a sudden. 

If I am completely honest, I wasn’t too blown away by the landscape. Mr W and I talked about it at length today. About how and why we felt a lack of connection to the day. There were several theories. Maybe we were homesick. Maybe we didn’t want to go home. Maybe the amount of tourists in Fort William and Glencoe was something we hadn’t yet experienced on the trip so far. Maybe we are just tired. They are all valid reasons. Maybe, just maybe, you can have too much of a good thing. The mountains in Glencoe are more green and grassy than their rocky, grey counterparts in north western Scotland and I think I do prefer those. It is a strange feeling to be underwhelmed in such a beautiful place. We have nothing like this in Essex. We don’t even have a waterfall. We have a man made lake near where we live. It is a fishing lake next to a playground. It’s not relaxing, nor is it amazing. I have chastised myself several times today when I’ve lost my ability to get excited.

We stopped to have a good picnic lunch from our supplies by Loch Tulla and after just a few minutes were surrounded by tour coaches and hoards of people posing for photos. After talking to one of the coach drivers, we were told that tours often start in Glasgow and head to Fort William and then onto Skye. I guess it gives people that don’t have time to tour round the exact snapshots of Scotland that they can go home and feel satisfied. It was then that we realised it may be the amount of people around us in the last few days that has diluted our experience. I truly believe this is down to the way we travel having changed and this is because of covid. It will be interesting moving forward to see how this affects international travel and city breaks. 

It helps to talk these things through and have someone you really can talk to. I know I’m very lucky. After hitting mile 2000 on this trip we made our way through the Trossachs National Park and through to the 3 Lochs Forest Drive. Originally not on the plans for today, it replaced the ‘boring’ walk and I was glad of it. We like the forest drive in Kielder Forest and hoped this would spark the same enjoyment. As we crept along the forest drive we found so many similarities to the site in Northumberland and when we came upon a clearing, we took the opportunity to fly the drone and stop for a leg stretch. Reading a nearby sign we found out that you can camp on the forest drive for £4 a night and it started us talking, once again, about the next trip up to Scotland. Due to constraints of weather and my back hurting, we have trimmed a few items out of the daily plans so far and aim to return as soon as possible to complete these things and of course add more!

Feeling rejuvenated, both mentally and physically, we head down through Glasgow for dinner and have just arrived at our accommodation. It has been a funny day. It’s not the last day in Scotland that I imagined but at the same time what I once imagined would be a goodbye is now a see you later. 

Tomorrow we drive down to the Lake District for our wedding anniversary. 

Until then, be kind to yourself, not everything deserves a smile, but you deserve everything.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/16/nc500-day-12-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/17/highlight-12-of-the-nc500-3-lochs-forest-drive/ 

Last photo by Dave Watson
Please check out his work on https://www.instagram.com/davewatson_uk/ or at https://davewatson1980.picfair.com