Day: Feb 10, 2023

NC500 Day 10 – Itinerary

Hi there, welcome back to the Scotland series.

Let’s crack on shall we, this is the itinerary for Day 10 on our NC500 tour of Scotland.

Our day changed dramatically due to the weather. So I’m going to give you our planned itinerary and you’ll be able to gain all information and thoughts about what we actually experienced here and on my summary of the day in the blogs linked below. Up until we arrived in Skye we had been very smug about how kind the weather had been to us and then… well, the waterfalls we had seen so far seemed to open above us. 

Today’s plans are not for the faint hearted. It is a very packed and strenuous day with two big hikes in it. This may seem too much but it will open up all of Skye to you. The big attractions are all there for you to see and love. Enjoy!

A little advice on this one. You will want to check your sunrise/set times on this one. The activities at the beginning and end rely on seeing the sun on the horizon. I think it would create the most amazing views.

Start your morning in the dark and drive up to the Old Man of Storr. This is a hike we unluckily didn’t venture on. We sat in the car park for a long time determining whether we should attempt it as the day’s hours ticked on. We decided it wasn’t the timing we had planned and therefore left it to our return trip. I advise making this your first point of call and parking up before sunrise to guarantee a space in the very busy car park and to also see some of the most spectacular views over the Applecross Peninsula on the mainland when the sun makes its appearance. The car park charges £2 for 2 hours and there are toilets on site. Below are some pretty clear instructions to help you make this walk safely and without too much confusion. Snacks will be needed I am sure. 

‘The path starts through the gate near the back of the car park.The wide path winds uphill through an area intended to regenerate with native woodland. Keep ahead/slightly right when the path forks although it doesn’t really matter as both join up later. The path passes through two gates to eventually reach the open moor with the spectacular cliffs of the Storr up ahead. The Old Man can be difficult to pick out from the cliffs behind from this point. Continue up the wide footpath. As more height is gained, look out for a clear path branching left; take this turning. The path contours a little before ascending, swinging right to climb up to the left of the Old Man. The next section of walk has some danger from rockfall – it should certainly be avoided after heavy rains. Follow a path that descends to pass around the back of the Old Man; the path is clear but crosses a short section of fallen rocks. This area – with towering cliffs and pinnacles all around – is known as the Sanctuary. Beyond the Old Man stands the Needle Rock – also known as the Cathedral, which has a window right through it near the top. Continue towards this, but turn right before reaching it to begin the descent. There are several variant paths at first but all soon join as the descent continues, passing well below the east side of the Old Man. Once back on the main path, follow it down to eventually retrace your steps back onto the made path through the felled area. Further down, you can turn right at the fork to follow an alternative, equally well made path for the descent section. This weaves about and passes a small lochan before rejoining the outward route. Continue down to return to the car park.’

Sounds impressive right? Even from the car park the view of the Old Man of Storr is impressive and should you get to experience this walk please let me know how it is. Please?

Make sure you have a big drink to replace all that expended energy. 

The next stop is really easy so don’t worry about those achy legs. The car park is free (as of this blog) and it’s quite literally a minute’s walk away from the cliff’s edge. As mentioned in the previous days, itinerary sites on Isle of Skye are considerably busier than the mainland and you may therefore have a long wait for an up close photo opportunity. Be patient, it is absolutely worth it!

Unfortunately we didn’t go on the next visit. It is supposed to be great with actual dinosaur prints that aren’t roped off so you can get up close and personal. I know you are down at the water’s edge so take waterproof clothing and enjoy! Don’t linger too long, you have lots more to see and the next stop is the busiest point on today’s itinerary. 

The Quiraing viewpoint is absolutely breathtaking. The smallest amount you’ll pay at the car park is £3 but you do get 3 hours. The car park is bigger than most on the island and although busy you won’t find yourself waiting long for a space to become vacant. On site there is a food van selling hot dishes to warm you up after the strong winds found here. You can spend anywhere between 20 minutes to 2 hours here. There is a hike which looked absolutely incredible from the viewpoint and if the weather had been kinder we would have definitely given it a go. Take note of the signposted areas to prevent you from quite literally slipping down to meet the land below. Wrap up warm!

Next, take the very scenic drive to Rha waterfall. You will find the road here very steep in places and much of it is single track so act as the locals do and be kind and courteous. It becomes second nature after travelling so much of the NC500 to accept the to and fro of the single track road however due to the influx of day tourists you may find some impatience forming. Remind yourself it is the journey not the destination and you’ll be fine. 

I’ve given you two sets of details (both What3Words) to find Rha waterfall. One for the parking, which is free, and one for the gate which opens onto the short walk to the falls. This is a very short but rewarding walk. It is much less busy than other sites on the island and you’ll find yourself lucky to find some peace and quiet in this beautiful spot.  

We found the next spot quite difficult to find and therefore I’ve given you another set of What3Words instructions. In most cases you will be given a postcode to find sites in Scotland. This covers a vast amount of space and with very little SatNav signal and/or phone signal it can become quite difficult to find places. I advise downloading the W3W app and using it offline as much as possible. The car park at the Fairy Glen in Uig is brand new and charges £2 for 2 hours. Which I think is a generous amount of time for this site. It is fairly straightforward walking around the base of these mounds. Take care if you wish to take a birds eye view, rain causes very slippery conditions and there are some fairly steep sections. As we arrived in the rain I know we didn’t fully appreciate this site which is a damn shame.

Now, the next and last stop of the day is a biggie. It’s one of the big reasons we will return to the Isle of Skye as we also missed this walk due to the weather. Neist Point Lighthouse is a 2 hour hike to the coastal area of northern Skye. There have been sightings of whales from here and in my opinion as a sunset chaser, it will be a wonderful end to a full but exceptional day. As we didn’t accomplish this walk I have given you the information below for the walk. I would like to think that a well trodden path would be easy to see but you never know!

‘Begin by following the path through the gate, which if locked can be easily walked round. Almost immediately turn left on the path, which then swings right to ease the descent to the headland far below. There is a metal handrail for most of the descent. Continue along the now level path. It is possible to detour to the right to visit the edge of the cliffs, overlooking the great prow of An t-Aigeach, the dramatic upstanding crag half way out on the headland. To the left are great views to the impressive cliffs of Waterstein Head and the Hoe, the second highest on Skye. At the highest point of the constructed path, a grassy path heads off to the right – this is an optional detour to the top of An t-Aigeach. If you decide to visit the top, take great care near the cliff edge, and retrace your steps back to the main path. As the corner is rounded the lighthouse comes into view for the first time. Continue along the path towards the lighthouse and the former keepers’ cottages. From the path junction, you can turn left along a made path to reach the crane and crane. It is also worth detouring across rougher pathless ground beyond the lighthouse complex to reach the furthest point. The return route is back the same way. It is worth detouring to the left from the path before it heads round An t-Aigeach to visit the cliff edge; from here you can watch seabirds in season but take care as the edge is, of course, unprotected.’

And there you have it. The top sites of the Isle of Skye in one day. I hope it serves you well. You deserve a big dinner and drink to toast the day. 

Staying on the Isle of Skye means you need to just return to your accommodation and relax. Tomorrow we return to the mainland. Our journey draws to its conclusion. But for now, chill.

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/13/highlight-10-of-the-nc500-the-quiraing/

NC500 Day 9 – Itinerary
NC500 Day 10 – Fairy Glen, Quiraing and Mealt Falls

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/13/highlight-10-of-the-nc500-the-quiraing/

Highlight 8 of the NC500 – Hartfield House Hostel

Hello! If you’ve been waiting for this blog I apologise. I’m not going into why I’ve been absent this time. I’m sure you grow weary of the reasons and are just going to continue reading about our Scotland trip. This is the highlight of day 8 and unlike several others this is based purely on the accommodation from Day 8. It was amazing!

I’d love to put a disclaimer right here about how we had been ‘gifted’ a stay at this hostel, first and foremost because we love a bargain but also due to the fact it would maybe explain my love for this place. It is often the case that a reviewer will receive a ‘kickback’ to some extent to help them write of their love of an accommodation. 

As you know we do love a bargain however we were full paying guests and my opinions are based solely on our fantastic experience. 

Hartfield House Hostel lies in the heart of Applecross. It is a large white building which shines like a beacon when the sun shines over the Applecross peninsula. Isn’t that just the mushiest stuff you’ve ever read? 

There is a long winding driveway at the property and honestly my rising anxiousness at staying in a hostel only rose as we ambled on at the 10 miles per hour speed limit. All was forgotten as over the fences of a pasture ahead we saw the ginger and cream haired Highland Coo’s in all their glory. There they were, after over a week of being in Scotland. They slowly chewed their food while blankly staring at our approach. Our excitement was not shared by our soon to be new best friends. 

Todays’ plans were strict in the sense of us arriving at the hostel. With check in at 4pm and only one washing machine and tumble dryer we were on a mission to be clean! 

We were too early to check in, in fact the building was locked and so we took the time to check out our neighbours. I am ever so slightly obsessed with the Coo’s now. And I am sure I have way too many photos to share with you. But let the obsession reign supreme! I am sure they’d sooner trample me on my approach for a cuddle, stroke and loving gaze, so I am happy enough just sending my adoration from the fenced pathway. They did not care. More’s the pity. 

Watching my watch carefully I raised the alarm to Mr W that check in would start in two minutes and so we returned to the huge building. As we approached the door and car came whizzing into the car park. She called over that she wouldn’t be a minute and I braced myself for what lay ahead. Our money saving schemes were behind us, we had scrimped and saved our way onto this trip, but living it was a different matter. What on earth was going to be beyond that door.

Countless times you will hear horror stories of hostels and how communal living isn’t always the cleanest. We had booked a private double room, well twin bedded room, and the toilet and shower facilities were down the hall to be shared with all other guests. The kitchen and communal spaces were also to be shared. I had visions flooding into my mind of ‘Kumbaya, My Lord’ being sung accompanied by some dreadlocked dude playing a guitar whilst others scraped together a meal of ramen and pickles. Stereotype much!

Check in was insanely easy and we were shown our room, literally walked to our room, when does that ever happen? 

The room was huge. Much like the outside, the white walls absolutely shone in the daylight streaming in from the huge window and I stood absolutely astounded at its spotless nature. The beds, although not marriage friendly (though word from the wise, sleeping in separate single beds on an exhausting trip like this really does wonders), were comfy and inviting. Fluffy rugs were under foot and plugs situated around the room meant we could comfortably charge every device we had been reliant on for the trip so far. Sounds pretty normal right? Well, no, on this day, day 8, we had found our first modernised room and it was enormous. It had enough room for us, our bags and our tiredness to fit into! Now that’s something. 

We took a moment to check out the bathrooms. The most ‘eeep’ inducing thing about the whole stay. Peeing in a public bathroom is not my forte. In fact I will still hold out as long as possible whilst out and about in London. On hikes I would rather pee in a field than try a public toilet and often do. It’s not necessarily just a clean thing. I think I have a shy bladder. Mr W is often the ‘lookout’ for such events and often thinks two seconds is enough of a warning for incoming walkers. For clarity, it is not. The bathroom was enormous with at least 5 toilet cubicles and 4 showers. It was insanely clean and spacious. I’m not sure what I was expecting exactly but this was far from it. It was bright and beautiful. Maybe I was expecting a dungeon. Maybe bugs. 

On returning to our room we quickly decided on our form of attack for the pile of washing that had accumulated in the car. We had both only packed the very essentials for this trip and underwear was running scarce. Priority one! Then there was the clothing we had used multiple times in favour of others due to their durability and warmth. Lessons are learned on the road too kids! With two big bundles in our arms we made our way to the courtyard where the washing facilities could be found. An actual interior courtyard next to the huge glazed kitchen. Our mission to arrive on time had paid off, we were the first there. A cycle of washing and drying cost £5. As I’ve never been to a laundrette I can’t say whether this is normal or pricey but when you are paying £40 a night for two people I’m not sure it matters.

With our stomachs full from a dinner of noodles (not ramen but hey close enough) put together in a chef size kitchen area we played by the rules and tidied up after ourselves and washed and dried our dishes. We then broke the cover of our rooms and headed to the showers. Oh glorious hot water. How we take you for granted!

The cubicle was big, like for a party of 3 big, and I found myself not wanting to leave. I remember now that just the night before I had not showered due to an upset stomach and the massive need for sleep. If you have read the recap of Day 7, we had been at Achmelvich bay and my hair and skin was paying the price for being in the sandy and salty water. This shower was sent from heaven! There was someone in the cubicle next to me, I swear it was a man, the whistling just sounded manly if I’m honest and with the very shiny ceiling I’m unsure if he/they saw anything I had to offer but with the feeling of cleanliness washing over me I don’t think I cared too much. I’m not sure why a man would have been in the ladies showers but it really is hard to care when the hot water doesn’t end and the bubbles keep frothing and your hair is no longer a messy nest. I swear a seagull flew out at one point. Maybe. 

Rather than walk the hallways barefoot and wrapped in a towel, I did that awkward shimmy into my trousers. Ya know the one where you’re standing on a wet floor and you dry the chosen foot as much as you can while holding your leg up and attempting to hop your way into said clothing. It’s hardly ever truly successful but always seems the more favourable option until you are face planting the cubicle wall. Feeling squeaky clean I emerged from the bathroom ready to conquer the evening. 

We chose to end our night in the communal living area where I would write and Mr W would take some time ‘off’. We sat on our own sofas, next to the bay window and as the night closed around us only one other couple popped in for a look and then left. 

I am under no illusion that hostels can be much busier and although we by no means visited out of season, the usual college and university students who meander through these places were back in their classes and we found ourselves the uncrowned kings of the castle. Having spent nearly two hours on our thrones and letting our freshly washed hair down, we pitter-pattered back to our room for a wonderful night’s sleep.  

Robustly refreshed, we awoke exceptionally early the next day to leave. Even at 5am the smile of this place was not waning. Mr W and I, already agreeing on plans to return, retraced the road back to the peninsula road.  

It is as if this place is the true prize at the end of the winding, butt clenching ride that is the Bealach Na Ba. Forget everything you think you know about hostels and book this place now! 

The links for the itinerary and recap of this day are below. I hope one day you experience this magical route for yourself. 

NC500 Day 8 – Itinerary
NC500 Day 8 – Red Point Beach, Victoria Falls and the Bealach Na Bà