Miles: 152.  Wildlife: 19 deer, 1 stag and a harbour seal. Camper Vans: 45+. Steps: 15906.

Cost of pre-bought food: £5.50 approximately

Extra costs: £17 for two cheeseburgers and chips and onions rings in Portree

5:45am our alarm went off. It’s been a while since we’ve been up that early on this trip. After a quick gulp down of some very stodgy porridge we threw out bags in the car and set off into the darkness. It was time to attempt the infamous Bealach Na Bà in the dark and also, it would seem, in the rain. Lots of people would say that the weather is what makes a holiday a holiday and yet it doesn’t really bother me. I’m exceptionally surprised we are nine days into our trip and only really had the odd shower. 

As we climbed the Applecross peninsula we were surprised to find three other motorists on the road and one very brave cyclist. Visibility was extremely poor and at times we were barely doing 17 miles an hour. As we came to the very top of the mountain we planned to stop and yet there was absolutely nothing to see. Until there was. As I gazed out into the void the milky clouds presented the perfect background for two silhouettes. Mummy and baby deer. I squealed in my seat at Mr W. ‘Deer! Deer!’. He paused in his driving as I took as many pictures as possible. As I told him he could carry on I took one last look back and my jaw dropped. ‘STAG!!!’ I shouted. He slammed on the brakes. We had been waiting a week to see one of these beauties. And through the clouds, rain and darkness there he was in all his splendour. Big shaggy coat, huge antlers and a quick careless glance right at me. This was his land. We were only visitors. Despite the rain and wind and cold and darkness I felt lucky to be there right at that moment. With no other intrusive eyes. No people edging closer for a better photo. Just us and him. 

The sky did not exist. We were surrounded by thick clouds and so we continued on our way. It was time to carry on down the most challenging part of the route, the extreme hairpin turns. Although extremely quieter than yesterday, and therefore giving us more time, it was still pretty mind boggling and yet strangely exhilarating to twist and turn the car down the mountain. As we came down the east side of the pass the light around us changed as the sun came up from its horizon haunt. We spotted another 16 deer along the lower foothills of the mountain and they were much more skittish than the three at the top. Maybe the sunlight that had started to flood the space was showing them us and spooking them. 

The drive after the morning safari was pretty uneventful and I was glad of it. Our energy levels have been lacking severely in the last few days. So we took our time and stopped along the way to snack and disengage from the rolling tarmac. 

By 8:30am we were crossing the Skye Bridge into the Isle of Skye. Energy levels boosted by our excitement of visiting this place buzzed to the surface. 

Our first stop was at Coo View point, a particularly pretty lookout on the mountains of Skye. By the roadside were a few Highlands Coos. With their Reddy brown shaggy coats, long curving horns and exceptionally big, wet noses they are among some of the most adorable animals in abundance in Scotland. I have begun calling out ‘Cooooo’ everytime we pass them in the fields. They, like the stag, give you an eye and then carry on with what they’re doing. You are not a part of their world. You are the ones who are fascinated. 

The wind whipped around the car as we approached our next stop at Sligachan Bridge. One of the top sites to see in Skye I was looking forward to seeing it in person. And yet the most fascinating moment of our visit was seeing 10-12 people placing their faces in the water flowing beneath the bridge while a man counted to 7 and the surrounding crowds clapped. Mr W and I took one look at each other and both had the same bemused and confused look. After a quick Google I found that the reason people do this act is for eternal beauty. As Mr W pointed out, if we attempted it, we wouldn’t have the energy to sit back up and we walked away laughing. 

We were making good timing on the plans today and had an hour or so extra time to play with. We made the short drive to Glenbrittle to visit the famous Fairy Pools. Even at 10:30am this place was busy! We have become so accustomed to quiet walks while in Scotland that we were quite taken back by the amount of people around us. We also concluded that not many of the visitors were Scottish. The friendliness of the past week had all but disappeared. Not very many hellos or shows of politeness at all. It was a shame. 

We looked down to the pools from the car park and strapped on our boots. This was a lengthy walk. The descent down to the first bridge on the walk was simple enough and then the fun began. Large rocks made the walk up and around the pools slightly more challenging and after what I can only guess as a very busy summer the viewing areas around the pools were exceptionally muddy. However, it felt very relaxed to clamber over rocks and boulders while walking along the river. Even though we were steadily climbing up the mountain with every step it was a very gradual ascent and not too taxing. 

The fairy pools themselves are really and truly very pretty. They zig zag their way down the vast expanse of mountainside and have carved their way mystically through the rock. Imagine them like a curving staircase which at every other step has the most beautiful waterfall, or in some cases twin/triplet waterfalls.

Beneath the waterfalls, sculpted pools of rock in hues of blue and green greet the splashing liquid from above and somehow, despite the surrounding peat fields and flora and fauna, the water is absolutely crystal clear. The entire river itself is also just as clear. The rocks that have long been left behind by the cutting water are jagged and gnarly and yet also smooth in places. They are white and grey and darkest black and then green, blue and orange. Everything here is vying for your attention and as you notice one beauty another snaps your head in the opposite direction. 

As we neared the top of the pools more water feel from above. Only this time it was the clouds that sent it our way. Zipping up our coats and drawing up our hoods around our necks we persisted in our mission. It is a truly mesmerising place. Each pool, fall and twist and turn is different. They are stunning. 

7000+ steps later and one discarded layer of clothing, we shoved a snack in our gobs and turned towards our next walk. This one, I had waited for for oh such a long time. You may have noticed I have a slight, wee, tiny obsession with waterfalls and yet this one was going to be entirely new in its surroundings. Talisker Bay Beach is home to a supreme of the waterfall world. It crashes down the cliffside from the river Allt Mheididh and in high winds can send its spray down onto the beach itself. 

We saw… absolutely none of this. Disaster struck in the form of more rain on our approach to the beach and despite forcing our limbs to carry on despite their fatigue the sun god’s were not willing to award us with the view of the Talisker waterfall. I could have stood on that beach and screamed and yet with water soaking through my clothings, rain drenching my face and Mr W looking like he’d run into the sea fully clothed, I couldn’t help but laugh. The sheep around us baa’d and the wind howled as it pushed literal waves of rain across the scene before us. The adventure was this. 

Tonight we have sat and made peace with the fact that tomorrow may change slightly due to the weather and despite the minor disappointment we are well aware of our limitations and the fact that one day we’ll be back to complete what is already a pretty amazing trip. Until then, we get a lay in and a cup of tea in bed. It turns out what makes a holiday is you and what you love doing with the person who makes you laugh every day. 

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/08/nc500-day-9-itinerary/

https://frameworktravel.home.blog/2023/02/09/highlight-9-of-the-nc500-the-fairy-pools/