Picture the scene. It’s 10pm. You’ve eaten lots of BBQ food and you’re being called into the darker parts of the landscape. Light is fading and you are wondering what could possibly hold such an interest. The random torches go out and around you, necks are bent, heads are up. 

Above you is a star strewn sky like nothing you’ve ever seen before. It is quite literally a blanket. Scatters of diamonds glittering away. The milky way in all of its glory. Below you your feet are set into the red dirt of the outback shrouded in complete darkness. You cannot see anything in front of you. The only light pollution you’ll find here is the twinkle of the stars looking on from a million miles away.  

I have been enamoured with the night sky since that moment 9 years ago in Australia. I’d never fully appreciated the concept of a true dark sky until that night. I always thought it was good to see the big dipper when I was out and about in England. That felt like a treat. Now I know what hides behind the clouds. What fades away because of surrounding streetlights. Back then I thought I captured absolutely everything on my camera and yet I have no photos of that night. I’ve tried so hard to describe it to people and I never seem to do it justice. The only other time I’ve ever seen anything remarkably close is when walking along a freshly tarmacked pavement when snow has just started to fall. The specks of white snow stand out starkly against the black backdrop and as more falls it reminds me of the Australian skies. 

Chasing a memory is all good and well but when Mr W said there were ‘dark skies’ areas around the UK I found myself wanting to chase stars again. 

It started with a visit to Thirsk in North Yorkshire, just a simple overnight visit on our way to Edinburgh. After a smooth 5 hour drive we dumped our bags and headed to Sutton Bank Visitor Centre. It is a beautiful area with just a short climb up the hill to see over the Yorkshire Moors. With sunlight fading fast Mr W set up his camera and waited for darkness. It was not necessarily the darkest sky I’ve ever seen, the towns below cast a glow upwards and it didn’t hit the proverbial spot. Seeing the moths attack a head torch wearing Mr W made my trip worthwhile and we left laughing. 

Our next attempt was only a month later in Northumberland National Park. A location very high on the list of dark sky spots online. Our lodge had a dedicated garden area just for the occasion and we spent a very cold hour outside watching for stars. Here is where Mr W triumphs and my inability to be patient fails me. As I’ve learned from our recent visit to Northumberland, the sun setting at 9/10pm doesn’t necessarily mean dark skies. In fact only last week did the horizon continue its illuminations well past midnight. Very strange indeed. However back in September 2021 at 10pm the sun had truly disappeared and we were blessed with a clear, albeit cold, night sky. Mr W got all the gadgets out and whizzed away setting everything up. And then there’s me. This wasn’t Australia. No blanket of stars to see via the naked eye. Just the odd star pinpointed here and there covering your peripheral sight with your elbow because this dark sky spot had a porch light activated by movement. You have to laugh, you really do. I felt like a fox being caught sneaking into a chicken coop everytime I moved. We did in fact have a lovely time, aside from my complaining, watching the planets. I seem to remember it was Jupiter that appeared in the sky and even to this naked eye, it was pretty impressive. 

One day it will happen. Maybe in Scotland. The highlands are supposed to be some of the Uk’s best dark skies locations. With villages being very small and untroubled by streetlights I think there’s a good chance my patience will be rewarded. 

I’m also aiming to be on high alert for some Northern light tracking. I have an app set up on my phone to alert me to the perfect conditions and will (WILL!) drag Mr W and our sorry arses out of our rented bed to the night-time skies to see the colours dance once more. 

Dancing skies of lights or stars seem to hold an interest with me. I think it’s where your eyes can roam and your mind can rest. Where your feet stay still and yet you feel transported. Ultimately, that’s something to be patient for. 

Scattered minds rest while gazing at scattered skies. 

Photo by Dave Watson
Please check out his work on https://www.instagram.com/davewatson_uk/ or at https://davewatson1980.picfair.com